Innholdsfortegnelse for January/February 2023 i Louisiana Cookin'

ALTHOUGH KING CAKES ARE available year-round at some outlets (it’s basically heresy but people must be buying them), they are part of the seasonal culinary ebb and flow that helps ground us and track the passage of time. Since leaving New Orleans, I miss the biweekly trips to pick up traditional and novel cakes and sharing them with my officemates (much to the simultaneous delight and chagrin of Senior Digital Editor Courtney duQuesnay). Between classic McKenzie’s Bakery cakes (former editor Caitlin Watzke’s favorite) and whoppers like Chef Lisa White’s gold-flecked, custard-stuffed version or the guava-and cream cheese-stuffed cake from Norma’s Sweet Bakery (one of my go-tos), we relished every bite. That’s what got me started about this year’s king cake feature, the one in which we share our interpretations of…

FOR MANY PARTS OF THE country, strawberries are a harbinger of springtime, but for lucky Louisianans, the season’s first berries can begin appearing at markets as early as January. Their sweetness and abundance both grow as the months get warmer, but nonetheless, strawberries can be a bright ray of sunshine in January. In the early 20th century, the advent of refrigerated railcars and Ponchatoula’s rich soil led to the development of a vast strawberry industry. Many of those berries were packed onto the railroads for northern markets, but the local demand remained strong as the railroad’s heyday waned. Whether you’re eating them fresh, making infusions, or coaxing out even more sweetness by roasting them, Bayou State strawberries are the ultimate luxury. STRAWBERRY AND CRISPY PROSCIUTTO TOASTS WITH BALSAMIC REDUCTION MAKES…

IF YOU ASK ALEX BRENNAN-MARTIN, cartographers got it wrong when they carved out Texas’ eastern border. “I’m determined that the border is incorrect between Texas and Louisiana,” he says. “Louisiana stops here in Houston, and Texas begins just west.” Is Houston, in fact, the largest, albeit unofficial, city of Louisiana? From the frequently flooded bayous that stream throughout the city to the sticky humidity and Creole food craze that has taken root in recent decades, Alex may just be on to something. But if there’s one addition to the tremendous city of Houston that makes it feel even more like home to Louisianans, it’s a restaurant bearing the storied Brennan name. Opened in 1967, Brennan’s of Houston follows in the footsteps of long-time Crescent City star Commander’s Palace. Armed with…

NEW ORLEANS OYSTERS AND PAPPARDELLE BORDELAISE MAKES 4 SERVINGS (photo on page 56) New Orleans’ garlicky white wine bordelaise sauce differs from the French original, and it’s a classic in its own right. 2 tablespoons olive oil4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced¼ cup dry white wine1 teaspoon kosher salt¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper⅛ teaspoon dried oregano1 (8-ounce) container raw oysters, drained and roughly chopped¼ cup unsalted butter¼ cup chopped fresh parsley2 tablespoons sliced green onion½ pound pappardelle, cooked according to package directions for al dente¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese¼ cup torn fresh basilGarnish: freshly grated Parmesan, fresh basil 1. In a large saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. Add garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. 2. Add wine, salt, red pepper, and oregano. Bring to…

ROLLING INTO A NEW YEAR is bittersweet. Sometimes it can be an absolute blessing, depending on how the year went for you, but nonetheless, the New Year tends to hold one common theme: a hope for good luck and good fortune. Here in the South, we believe eating black-eyed peas and cabbage on New Year’s Day is key to a lucky, prosperous year, so when the day approaches, my Black-Eyed Peas and Cabbage Rolls are usually what you’ll find me cooking. To be honest, I was never really a fan of black-eyed peas. Now my wife, on the other hand, loved them. Anytime she wanted them, I would find a way to change the subject. Black-eyed peas for dinner weren’t appealing to me. I realize now that, at that point…

LOUISIANA’S HOLY TRINITY OF SEASONING VEGETABLES—onion, green bell pepper, and celery—is the starting point of gumbos, étouffées, dressings, and more. Around the Bayou State, many grocers sell quart containers of prechopped trinity mix. The ingredients in those prepared trinities will vary slightly, with some mixes containing garlic along with other herbs and spices. If you can spare a few minutes to chop the vegetables yourself, you can freeze your own trinity mix to save a few minutes when preparing your next gumbo. BOUDIN AND CHICKEN GUMBO MAKES 8 CUPS This quick, easy gumbo recipe gets beaucoup flavor from the addition of boudin. ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, divided½ cup all-purpose flour2 cups Trinity Mix (recipe follows)1 pound boudin, casings removed, crumbled, divided4 cups chicken broth2 dried bay leaves1…

I FIRST MOVED TO NEW ORLEANS BACK IN 2015 with hopes of one day becoming a chef. I worked at a few places around the city before deciding to switch gears to bartending and eventually getting an opportunity to do so as part-food runner and part-barback at the Ace Hotel’s restaurant, Seaworthy. At the time, I didn’t have a real bartending background. The plan was to train and work my way up, and within six months, I was promoted to bartender. I then left the city for a few months to do seasonal work in Chicago, but I came back in search of the perfect bar program for me. That’s when Latitude 29 offered me a spot. It was right after Mardi Gras in 2019, and I had no working…

THE BEST STOP LOUISIANA AND TEXAS For all manner of Cajun delicacies—boudin, cracklin’s, gumbo, andouille sausage, and more—folks traveling along Interstate 10 would feel compelled to take the short side trip to Scott for Best Stop Supermarket. The locally-run store has been operating from that location since 1986 but has recently opened three new outposts in the Lone Star State. Soon, residents of Katy, New Braunfels, and The Woodlands will be able to enjoy those Bayou State staples without having to make the journey. beststopinscott.com COVINGTON BEER GARDEN COVINGTON Downtown Covington got a little livelier in October with the opening of the Covington Beer Garden. This expansive and well-designed indoor/outdoor space across from the town’s Tammany Trace Trailhead features dozens of taps as well as large-screen TVs for sporting events.…

POST UP AT ONE OF THE DOZENS OF CAFÉS sprawled throughout the Crescent City and you’re likely to find a cup of coffee with a long and strong history that is uniquely New Orleans. Chicory coffee, a blend of ground coffee beans and ground chicory root brewed to rich, full-bodied perfection, has been a common concoction in the city since the mid-19th century. The technique originated with the Dutch but was adopted by the French during Napoleon Bonaparte’s early 1800s Continental System instituted to halt trade with Britain. With British coffee shipments no longer in the cards and a country full of folks craving their coffee fix, the French began substituting ground chicory root for their morning cup of java. Even after the ban had lifted, chicory root consumption stuck…

AFTER INTRODUCING NEW ORLEANS TO their food as the Old Portage, a pop-up located in the popular French Quarter Black Penny bar, Amarys Koenig-Herndon and Jordan Herndon opened Palm&Pine in 2019. The vibrant, open space complements their thoughtful dishes that, instead of focusing on classic Creole cuisine, celebrate “the South and south of that.” Diners at the Rampart Street restaurant, which is almost cattycorner to the Saenger Theatre, are treated to bold Southern and Caribbean flavors ranging from Corner Store Crudo (which comes with a fish sauce condiment that’s been infused with New Orleans-favorite Big Shot soda) and Crispy Pig Ears to Crispy Fish Meunière and Cornmeal Fried Texas Quail. During Carnival season, Amarys and Jordan have a front-row seat to the city’s signature parades, but like many locals, they…

IF YOU WANT TO BRING SOME CARNIVAL FLAIR to your next party without the task of baking a king cake from scratch, this King Cake Bread Pudding is here to help. Tender chunks of French and brioche bread make up the core of this decadent treat. The sweet cream cheese topping and festive sanding sugar complete the effect. Would anyone complain if you stuck a plastic baby in there? Probably not. Go for it. KING CAKE BREAD PUDDING MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS Create your own sanding sugars by placing one cup of sugar in a Mason jar. Add food coloring, cover tightly, and shake; repeat until desired color is reached. 4 cups 1-inch cubes brioche bread (8 ounces)4 cups 1-inch cubes soft French bread (8 ounces)½ cup toasted sliced…

FOR A PROSPEROUS NEW YEAR, many Louisianans turn to black-eyed peas and rice. In this lightened-up version, we swapped out the traditional pork products (ham, bacon, or fatback) for olive oil and added another auspicious food: collard greens. The greens’ mild flavor is a tasty tweak to this old-timey dish, but most hearty greens (like mustard greens or kale) would do well here, too. BLACK-EYED PEAS AND GREENS MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS To make this dish even lighter and fresher, substitute cooked riced cauliflower for the long-grain rice. 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided1 large yellow onion, halved, divided5 garlic cloves, crushed, divided1 (1-pound) bag dried black-eyed peas*, rinsed2 dried bay leaves4 teaspoons kosher salt, divided1 teaspoon ground black pepper, divided1 teaspoon lemon zest¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper1 pound collard…

THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO CATCH A FISH: casting, netting, spearfishing, gigging. Every summer, my family and I made the trek to Grand Isle, for a two-week vacation. By day, my seven siblings and I swam in the surf, fished and crabbed, but once the sun dropped and the lights of the oil rigs twinkled against the night sky, we hit the beach with our kerosene lanterns to gig for flounder. We walked slowly through the surf, searching for small mounds of humped sand on the bay floor. Once discovered, the fish was gigged and added to the ice chest, a delicacy to enjoy the next day. Though we gigged for flounder in the summer months, fishing for flounder during Carnival season is exceptional as well. It just so happens…

SHRIMP AND WHITE BEAN SOUP MAKES 8 CUPS This heartwarming classic shines with sweet Louisiana shrimp. 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided1 (4-ounce) package diced pancetta1 pound peeled and deveined large fresh shrimp1 tablespoon minced garlic1 teaspoon lemon zest1 tablespoon kosher salt, divided¼ cup unsalted butter1 large leek, chopped (white and light green parts only)1 pound dry white beans, soaked overnight and drained4 cups chicken broth2 cups water¼ cup chopped fresh parsley2 tablespoons fresh lemon juiceGarnish: chopped fresh parsley, lemon wedges 1. In a Dutch oven, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat. Add pancetta, and cook, stirring occasionally, until crispy, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from pot. 2. In a large bowl, toss together shrimp, garlic, lemon zest, ½ teaspoon salt, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. 3. Increase heat to medium-high.…

THE BAYOU STATE IS A LEADING PRODUCER of oysters nationally, which is why it’s safe to say that Louisiana’s the place where you can also find the best oyster dishes in the nation. In Louisiana, you’ll find oysters prepared every way imaginable: raw, fried, chargrilled, stewed, or baked. During Mardi Gras season, oysters are on the menu at many restaurants, bars, and events, so there’s no better time to consider where you’ll find standout options. No matter how you like your oysters, one thing’s for sure: Louisiana Gulf oysters will be large, meaty, and full of flavor. Below, you’ll find some of our favorite restaurants and bars that service these briny bivalves across the state. Starting out in New Orleans, Sidecar Patio & Oyster Bar features oysters from coast-to-coast but…

A LIFE IN THE CULINARY FAST lane wasn’t what South Alabama native Alex Harrell originally had in mind when he took his first restaurant job. What started as one summer-long favor to family friends turned into a now celebrated career. Something about that first kitchen’s dynamic energy resonated deeply with the 2013 Chef to Watch and set him on a path towards where he finds himself today—executive chef of Commons Club at Virgin Hotels New Orleans. The Crescent City welcomed him with open arms many years ago, but this latest post brings with it an opportunity to blend classic Southern and Louisiana styles with flavors inspired by the Mediterranean, providing a wide range of meals for their diverse clientele. Q What makes clams the best shellfish for this dish? For…