Innholdsfortegnelse for November/December 2022 i Louisiana Cookin'

IT WOULDN’T BE THE HOLIDAY season in Louisiana without the scent of cooking turkeys. In this issue, we feature not one but two decadent birds, and they both represent styles and trends that have become mainstays in the Bayou State. Chef John Folse offers up a classic wild bird that’s packed with a rich crawfish stuffing (page 38) and Thibodaux’s Jason Derouen, better known as The Cajun Ninja, shows off his deep-fried version (page 81). They couldn’t be more different, but they highlight the range of flavors and textures that folks can look forward to on Thanksgiving. The iconic Louisiana bird missing from this issue is the turducken. Over the years, we’ve considered providing a turducken recipe, but each time, we come to the same conclusion: if you want a…

LET’S GET THIS OUT OF THE WAY first: like the tomato, fall and winter squash are classified as fruit. The varieties of these squash that grow well in Louisiana include acorn, butternut, delicata, and Hubbard, and they will all help you get into the cool weather spirit. With a finer texture than many pumpkins, these hearty squash are a versatile addition to your seasonal menus since they perform as well roasted as they do boiled and pair with savory flavors as well as they do with desserts. In addition to their sweet taste, many winter squash are full of vitamins A and C, antioxidants, fiber, and potassium. Whether you roast, smash, or stuff them with delightful Cajun goodies, you’re sure to enjoy this collection of early winter comfort foods. ANDOUILLE-STUFFED…

The Gloriette 428 E. Boston St. • Covington thegloriette.com Standing on a milk crate to reach the sudsy sink of a Rhode Island restaurant’s dish pit, Steven Marsella realized his love of restaurants at an early age. At 13, he became a dishwasher at a neighborhood eatery and then a busboy and prep cook, and that was just the beginning. Today, several hundred miles south of where his kitchen career began, Steven’s decades of experience and fresh energy are breathing life into the Northshore’s newest culinary destination: The Gloriette. Tucked inside Covington’s swanky Southern Hotel, a historic inn that first opened in 1907 but was meticulously renovated and revamped just over a decade ago, The Gloriette opened in March of this year. The restaurant replaces Oxlot 9, and guests will…

WINTER SPICED VIEUX CARRÉ FREEZER COCKTAIL MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS This bold and flavorful New Orleans cocktail gets a warm spice makeover in this incredibly easy batched version. 1 cup cognac5 whole cloves1 whole star anise1 cinnamon stick, broken in half1 (1-inch) piece peeled fresh ginger, cut in half1 cup sweet vermouth1 cup rye whiskey¾ cup distilled water1½ tablespoons Bénédictine1 teaspoon Angostura bitters1 teaspoon Peychaud’s bittersGarnish: dried orange slices 1. In a pint-size Mason jar or other sealable container, combine cognac, cloves, star anise, cinnamon stick, and ginger. Seal, and place in a cool, dark place until desired flavor is achieved, 3 days to 1 week. Strain, discarding solids. 2. In a large pitcher or glass bottle, combine spiced cognac, sweet vermouth, whiskey, ¾ cup distilled water, Bénédictine, and…

I CANNOT BEGIN TO TELL YOU guys how much I love Thanksgiving. It might be because the idea of having several varieties of food at my disposal excites me to my core. As a child, I remember Thanksgiving being one of the few days a year when we sat down to the dinner table as an entire family. My parents worked opposite schedules most of my life. My mom would work nights in the hospital, and my dad worked days as a grocery store manager. It was very seldom that we sat down and had a normal family dinner. But Thanksgiving was generally a day that both of them were off work. Oddly enough, in my family, we didn’t eat turkey on Thanksgiving. My mom said she made it one…

ROUX IS ONE OF THE CULINARY THREADS that binds many of Louisiana’s most iconic recipes. Gumbos and étouffées, for sure, but many other stews and sauces. Every cook has their own method for coaxing just the right flavor and thickening power out of this age-old combination of fat and flour, but the one thing that remains the same for all the roux applications is that a good roux takes a while to make. With this make-ahead refrigerated roux, you can shorten the time it takes to make your favorite dish by 30 to 45 minutes! JARRED ROUX MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS You can cook this roux over a higher heat, but you’ll have to be extra vigilant to protect against burning. 1½ cups unsalted butter, cubed1½ cups all-purpose flour 1.…

THE COCO HABANERO is a little similar to my Bananas Foster Cocktail from the May/June 2022 issue in that I wanted another easy recipe for my bartenders. With this, they can be back with their guests instead of working over too many fussy builds on one menu. And so, a simple but amazing flavor combination like chocolate and spice takes center stage here. I often play with cayenne pepper and chocolate because there’s a smokiness and a richness to cayenne that plays off the cocoa really well. Previously, I talked about my experience in the Southwest with habanero peppers. What I found during that time was that there are five or six different peppers that work in cocktails. For this particular sip, I first tried a guadajillo. It’s an uncommon…

RECIPE INDEX Appetizers Andouille Puffs with Creole Mustard Sauce, 64 Ham and Tasso Croquettes, 71 Hoisin Shrimp Spoons, 49 Honey Mascarpone Toasts, 47 Marinated Shrimp and Olives, 21 West Indies Salad, 49 Beverages Coco Habanero, 94 Frozen Bourbon Milk Punch, 97 Habanero Chocolate Vodka, 94 Winter Spiced Vieux Carré Freezer Cocktail, 61 Breakfast Crawfish and Andouille Strata, 85 Sweet Potato Pancakes, 68 Desserts Bananas Foster Bread Pudding, 92 Brûlot Brûlée, 58 Chocolate Chip Butternut Squash Loaf with Pecan Streusel, 27 Cranberry and Fig Gâteau de Sirop Bundt, 56 Milk Punch Tres Leches Cake, 56 Mirliton and Cranberry Pie, 83 Sticky Praline Mini Cakes, 58 Meat, Game, and Poultry Andouille-Stuffed Acorn Squash, 23 Fried Turkey & Turkey Gravy, 81 Herbed and Spiced Standing Rib Roast, 66 Roasted Wild Turkey with Cornbread…

FLOUR MOON BAGELS NEW ORLEANS Louisiana Cookin’ 2019 Chef to Watch and pastry maven Breanne Kostyk opened Flour Moon Bagels along the gorgeous Lafitte Greenway (a walkable route that connects the French Quarter to the New Orleans Museum of Art). Along with an assortment of bagels (including bialys and massive Jerusalem bagels on Fridays and Saturdays), schmeers, and toppings, Breanne and partner Jeff Hinson offer a full menu of sandwiches, tartines, sweets, and beverages (including coffee from neighboring HEY Café and a few eye-opener cocktails). A couple of the menu highlights include the Bluebird (with smoked turkey, jalapeño cream cheese, and blueberry jam) and the Italian (seemingly inspired by the classic New Orleans muffuletta). flourmoonbagels.com SHAKEBACKS LAFAYETTE After seeing an opening in the Lafayette market for late-night dining, Terrence Jeffrey…

I MOVED TO SOUTHWEST LOUISIANA FROM New Orleans in 1983 after marrying the love of my life, Buzzy. Immediately, my father instructed me to get busy and learn to make a gumbo. Southwest Louisiana Cajun gumbo is very different from New Orleans Creole gumbo. So, I got busy. Christmas Day is extremely busy at the Leithead house, and early on, I came to the realization that the traditional turkey and dressing Christmas dinner was virtually impossible for our growing family. We actually had a Christmas brunch mid-morning. As the children got older, their friends would come visit in the afternoon on Christmas Day. The boys’ friends, in particular, were hungry, and dinner was nonexistent! That’s when the Christmas Day gumbo began. Lots of our local hunters were more than happy…

SWEET POTATO PANCAKES MAKES ABOUT 10 Folks usually reserve leftovers for lunch or dinner, but these pancakes prove they can be just as good at breakfast! 2 cups all-purpose flour2 tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar2 teaspoons baking powder2 teaspoons kosher salt1 teaspoon ground cinnamon¼ teaspoon baking soda1½ cups whole milk½ cup sour cream½ cup mashed cooked sweet potato2 large eggsUnsalted butter and chopped pecans, to serve½ cup whole berry cranberry sauce (leftover)¼ cup cane syrup1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1. In a large bowl, stir together flour, brown sugar, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and baking soda. 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together milk, sour cream, sweet potato, and eggs. 3. Create a well in center of flour mixture; add milk mixture, stirring until just combined. 4. Heat a…

BY THE TIME WARREN LERUTH had published his first cookbook, LeRuth’s Front Door Back Door Cookbook, he’d already become known as the man who’d transformed New Orleans cuisine forever. “Before him, New Orleans cuisine was pretty traditional to gumbo, jambalaya, very classic New Orleans and south Louisiana dishes,” says his grandson, Jacques Leruth. “My grandfather brought a French layer to New Orleans cuisine and turned [the city] into a gastronomic destination with dishes that no one had ever heard of.” Tucked into a restored shotgun house, diners delighted in Warren’s famous Oyster and Artichoke Soup, the restaurant’s signature Crabmeat St. Francis, and fried soft-shell crab topped with luscious lump crabmeat at LeRuth’s restaurant in Gretna. LeRuth’s Front Door Back Door Cookbook, published in 1975, begins with elevated recipes you would…

GOTTA LOVE THAT WILD TURKEY! I’m talking about the bird, not the beverage. Interestingly enough, the ancient Mayan people created a drink called “balché” for their wild turkeys. Made of fermented honey and tree bark, the drink was ceremonially given to turkeys to cheer them before being dispatched. While working on my After the Hunt cookbook several years ago, I included a chapter of recipes for Louisiana’s land game birds. Of the many options we can hunt, Louisiana’s wild turkey is probably the best known and certainly the largest. Shortly after the season begins in April, you’ll find sportsman magazines and newspapers filled with hunters showing off their tom turkeys, tails fanned, beards and spurs proudly displayed. Bag limits are small: one gobbler per day, two per season. I was…

Pies are what’s for dessert around the state, a family tradition for some, but for these six piemakers, pies are serious business. In New Orleans, Nicole Eiden and Marielle Dupré are the pair who took home the 2021 Best of Show – Sweet award at the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience for their Brandied Cherry Pie, just one of their creative flavor pairings. At Mrs. Johnnie’s Gingerbread House in Lake Charles, Kevin Ames is keeping the ovens going and baking pies now that his mom has retired, including her famous sweet potato pie. In Baton Rouge, Elsie’s Plate & Pie pays tribute to Chef Paul Chauvin Dupré’s grandmother Elsie, who taught him his way around a piecrust—as his Eye of the Tiger Pie (lemon and blueberry pie) can attest.…

DURING THE HOLIDAY SEASON, we should all give ourselves a break and do what we can to streamline our lives. Dishes like this make-ahead baked egg strata are perfect for helping achieve that goal. CRAWFISH AND ANDOUILLE STRATA MAKES ABOUT 8 SERVINGS For extra crawfish flavor, you can skip rinsing the drained crawfish. 1 pound andouille sausage, chopped10 large eggs2½ cups half-and-half1½ teaspoons Creole seasoning1 teaspoon dry mustard1 teaspoon hot sauce1 (1-pound) package crawfish tails, rinsed and drained well1 (12-ounce) loaf French bread, cut into 1-inch cubes1 cup shredded smoked Gouda cheese1 cup shredded Swiss cheese1 (4-ounce) jar diced pimientos, drained well½ cup sliced green onion1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsleyGarnish: chopped fresh parsley 1. Preheat oven to 375°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. On prepared pan,…

WHILE GROWING UP IN NORTH Louisiana, Chef Holly Schreiber took her fair share of detours before realizing that cooking was her lifeline. But landing catering gigs to pay her way through college ultimately led her to culinary school in New York. She eventually moved back to the South after kicking her career off in the Big Apple, and that’s when she had to shift her idea of what it meant to be a chef. Opening the event space and kitchen at Saint Terre in Benton was a chance to take control and host celebrations guests will always remember—one decadent dessert like this after another. Q What’s the inspiration behind the choice to use Hawaiian rolls and croissants in this recipe? My background is in French cuisine, and I always loved…