Innholdsfortegnelse for May/June 2022 i Louisiana Cookin'

WHEN I FIRST JOINED the team at Louisiana Cookin’ in 2011, I was very much a newcomer to the Bayou State. Over the past decade, my love for Louisiana has grown with every spoonful of gumbo and steamy crawfish boil, and I am thrilled to be back at the magazine. Along with my return, I’m excited to introduce you to some new team members who, like me, take great joy in exploring the foods, sights, and traditions that make Louisiana so special. Joining me are Senior Culinary Editor Georgia Clarke (loves Ponchatoula strawberries), Assistant Editor Daniel Dubuisson (enjoys perusing farmers’ markets), and Lake Charles native Editorial Assistant Eleanor Fetzer. This is an issue full of new faces and many of our favorite things from around Louisiana with our fourth annual…

LA 31 AWARDS CAN’T-MISS BITES 1 MI TIERRA TAMALES Alexandria Since 2004, hungry diners in central Louisiana have sought out Irma Rodriguez’s Mexican tamales. Even before opening her first restaurant, Mi Tierra Restaurante Mexicano in Forest Hill, she sold them by word of mouth. Folks in nearby Alexandria can get those tamales and more dishes at Mi Tierra’s larger sister restaurant. That location’s menu also includes Poblano Soup, Chicken Tortilla Soup, and occasionally birria tacos (tacos filled with cheese and slow-cooked shredded beef). facebook.com/MiTierraAlexandria 2 TCHEFUNCTE’S PANEED VEAL CHOP Madisonville The small town of Madisonville, located across Lake Pontchartrain from New Orleans, scored a major culinary win when Chef Michael Gottlieb opened Tchefuncte’s in 2020. The menu is French-influenced but worldly and touches on Louisiana themes without being boxed in (New…

WHETHER YOU GROW UP IN NEW ORLEANS or claim the city as yours—enchanted by its many quirks and patinas, excesses, and contradictions—anyone who comes here with an open heart and open mouth is often rewarded with indelible memories and unforgettable best bites. There’s something about the combination of heat and spices, live music, impromptu parades, and joyful communion that create an ineffable sweetness to keep you coming back for more. On a recent return trip, flying low over blue tarps stretched across damaged rooftops from the most recent hurricane, the elderly passenger next to me, who hasn’t spoken much the entire flight, points out the window. “All that blue is a sign of strength,” she says and nods. “We get our share of disaster, baby, but we ain’t going nowhere.”…

CAJUN FLAVORS SHINE in this comforting weeknight meal. Think of this soup as a blank canvas for your favorite Bayou State ingredients. We started with andouille sausage because it lends a luxurious flavor and texture to the dish, but that’s just the beginning. If you have frozen shrimp or crawfish tails, they’ll be delightful additions. Similarly, throwing in some smoked turkey neck or tasso would amplify the andouille’s smoky undertones and make the dish even more irresistible. SPLIT PEA SOUP MAKES 6 SERVINGS Want to make this simple supper even more appealing? Add a pound of shrimp about 10 minutes before the end of cooking, and make sure they’re pink and firm before serving. 1 pound andouille sausage, sliced crosswise1 cup diced yellow onion1 cup chopped carrots½ cup chopped celery2…

HUYA CRAFT COFFEE YOUNGSVILLE Owners Shayna and David Hines and Kily LaGarde are passionate coffee drinkers who’ve created an idyllic haven for fellow espresso lovers in the Lafayette area to sit and savor specially crafted brews. Their journey as a team started in 2016 when Kily fell in love with Brewed Over, Shayna and David’s mobile coffee bar. Now, the team have joined forces and developed delicious recipes using a range of house-made syrups and glazes, ensuring consistency with every cup. huyacraftcoffee.com CYPRESS BY THE REVENIR SHREVEPORT Tapas take on a Southern twist at Cypress. The team behind the Revenir and Every Man a King Distillery now bring this bright and lively concept to Shreveport. The ingredients for the bite-size servings are both locally and responsibly sourced, packing exceptional flavor…

I REMEMBER WATCHING a movie (based on a novel) titled The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants. After watching the story of the four girls’ friendship, loyalty, and love, I realized the Folse family was a brotherhood that included my dad, brothers, grandfathers, and uncles. The common denominator that forged that brotherhood was the black iron pot from which came hundreds of delicious gumbos, rich étouffées, and spicy sauce piquantes. Black iron pots often become heirloom cookware—legacy gifts passed from one generation to the next. Such is the case with the Brotherhood of the Traveling Black Iron Pot. Originally used by Albert “Papere” Zeringue for the annual Zeringue family boucherie (a.k.a. hog killing), the pot was bequeathed to his son-in-law (my dad), Antoine Royley Folse Sr. The classic Cajun dishes that…

CAJUN MACARONI AND CHEESE MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS Mac and cheese is a surefire favorite, and this spicy andouille version is unbeatable. 1 (14-ounce) package andouille sausage, cut into ¼-inch slices1 cup chopped red bell pepper1 cup chopped green bell pepper½ cup chopped yellow onion2 cloves garlic, minced¼ cup all-purpose flour1 teaspoon kosher salt½ teaspoon paprika½ teaspoon ground black pepper¼ teaspoon dry mustard⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper3 cups whole milk2 cups shredded sharp white Cheddar cheese1 cup shredded Gruyère cheese1 (16-ounce) package elbow pasta, cooked according to package directionsGarnish: paprika 1. In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, cook andouille over medium heat until lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. 2. Add bell peppers, onion, and garlic to skillet. Cook until vegetables are tender, about 6 minutes. 3. Sprinkle flour, salt, paprika, black…

BECOMING A POPULAR ONLINE COOK was never a goal in my life. Don’t get me wrong; I’ve always loved to eat, but when I was a kid growing up in Houma, I was much more interested in martial arts and making people laugh than I was in mastering a roux. My mom was a registered nurse and worked a lot of night shifts, but when she cooked, you made sure you were there. My dad wasn’t much of a cook. He was more into martial arts movies and football games, but he did have an enormous love for cooking shows. He would watch Emeril Lagasse almost every night, and occasionally, I’d sit there and watch with him, taking in every “bam!” along the way. I guess that was where I…

ZESTY AND COMFORTING, rémoulade sauce is a home and restaurant staple in the Crescent City. Its origins are unsurprisingly French, but Louisianans have added numerous touches to the classic sauce. Originally resembling tartar sauce—a mayonnaise-based sauce with herbs, pickles, and capers—rémoulade has seen many iterations throughout the past 200 or so years. These days, the sauce is typically a pinkish red (thanks to spices like cayenne and paprika and sometimes ketchup), but white, yellow, and green versions also make the rounds. Shrimp rémoulade is perhaps the most ubiquitous dish that uses this sauce, and it typically presents as boiled Louisiana shrimp that have been tossed in the sauce and then served over lettuce or shredded cabbage. SHRIMP RÉMOULADE DEVILED EGGS MAKES 12 For our best tips and techniques for preparing…

THIS TIME OF YEAR—before the Louisiana summer heat revs up—is absolutely perfect for quick grilled meals that make the most of the season’s fresh produce. In this recipe, a flavorful skirt steak takes a turn over the coals (or a grill pan) and gets paired with a nearly effortless tomato salad that’s been boosted with fresh herbs, garlic, and sweet cane vinegar. STEAK AND TOMATO SALAD MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS Skirt steaks get tougher the longer they’re cooked, so if you like your beef well-done, you may want to choose a different cut. 2 (1-pound) skirt steaks, trimmed2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided2 tablespoons blackened seasoning3 cups halved assorted cherry tomatoes2 Creole or beefsteak tomatoes, cut into 8 wedges each1 jalapeño, seeded and sliced½ cup thinly sliced white onion2…

Quebedeaux’s Cajun Café 3800 Monroe Hwy. • Pineville 318.704.5935 quebedeauxscajuncafe.com FOR THE PAST DECADE, John Valenzuela has been on an unwavering mission to bring culture to central Louisiana, and with a handful of restaurants on his plate and more to come, he’s well on his way. John grew up the way many of us only read about. He was raised in Lafayette but spent summers with his grandparents in Texas, where he learned where real food came from at the hands of his Cherokee great-grandmother. “She never went to the grocery store,” says John. “She grew mulberry trees and peach trees and raised her own pigs and goats.” He remembers the different chiles she grew—arbol, poblano, and guajillo to name a few—and the cheese she would make with milk from…

EASY PECAN STICKY BUNS MAKES 12 Sticky buns are the stuff dreams are made of, and this version is divine. ¾ cup unsalted butter, softened and divided1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar, divided1 tablespoon light corn syrup¾ cup chopped pecans1 (17.3-ounce) package frozen puff pastry (2 sheets), thawed2 teaspoons ground cinnamon½ teaspoon ground cardamom1 teaspoon orange zest½ cup chopped golden raisins 1. Preheat oven to 400°. 2. In a small bowl, stir together ½ cup butter, ⅓ cup brown sugar, and corn syrup. Spoon mixture into a 12-cup muffin pan (about 1 tablespoon per cup). Divide pecans among muffin cups. 3. Unfold puff pastry, and smooth with a rolling pin. 4. In another small bowl, stir together cinnamon, cardamom, orange zest, remaining ⅔ cup brown sugar, and remaining ¼…

IT’S NOT AS THOUGH PIES or tarts are fussy, so much as rustic French galettes are essentially unfussy. Galettes feature an easy, versatile dough that’s a cinch to prepare and works equally well with sweet and savory fillings. In this galette, we brought together some of the season’s brightest stars so you could liven up your brunches or impromptu gatherings. This galette’s golden hue, organic shape, and sugary crunch are sure to delight throughout the spring and beyond. MIXED BERRY GALETTE MAKES 2 (6¾-INCH) GALETTES Be sure to use fresh berries in this recipe. Thawed frozen berries will create more liquid than the crust can hold. 1½ cups all-purpose flour⅓ cup plus 1½ teaspoons granulated sugar, divided1¼ teaspoons kosher salt, divided1 teaspoon lemon zest½ cup cold unsalted butter, cubed⅓ cup…

THERE ARE A COUPLE THINGS at play here with this Bananas Foster Cocktail. First: I’m from south Louisiana, so Brennan’s original Bananas Foster means a lot to me. Second: Early in my career, I worked at Brennan’s on Royal Street in New Orleans, where Bananas Foster was created in the ’50s. Third: I moved away at a pretty young age—right after high school—and then spent much of my career explaining to people that it’s “bananas Foster,” not “banana Fosters.” I’ve always felt I owe a little debt to the Brennan’s team because they trained me into service in all of the right ways. I didn’t realize it at the time, but I was able to lean on that foundation throughout my career. As an Irishman, I have a huge sweet…