Innholdsfortegnelse for September/October 2021 i Louisiana Cookin'

EVERY YEAR SINCE 2002, Louisiana Cookin’ has selected a handful of talented chefs from around the state as Chefs to Watch. Year after year, we look for up-and-coming chefs who respect local culinary traditions while adding their personal touch and pushing the boundaries of Louisiana cuisine. In my time working with this magazine, I have been fortunate to have met some truly amazing chefs from all corners of the state who are making their mark on Louisiana’s cuisine. This year, we are proud to continue this tradition as we introduce our 20th class of Chefs to Watch. The 2021 Chefs to Watch represent a wide swath of cuisines and cooking styles—chefs like Anthony Goldsmith, who is trying to preserve Cajun cuisine for the next generation; Serigne Mbaye, who is highlighting…

MIRLITON, CHAYOTE, CHRISTOPHENE, VEGETABLE PEAR: whatever you call it, this squash is a fall staple in New Orleans. Locally, the vegetable is known as mirliton, with most New Orleanians dropping the “r” and pronouncing it “mel-uh-tawn.” Mirlitons have long been grown on backyard fences and trellises across the city, typically ripening in October, just in time for fall cooking and the upcoming holiday season. With tender, watery flesh and a taste reminiscent of apple or cucumber, the mirliton is a versatile ingredient that works well with other foods. Around New Orleans, it’s most commonly used in recipes for stuffed mirlitons or mirliton dressing, often made with seafood. This fall, we’re sharing our own take on the stuffed mirliton as well as recipes for a creamy gratin and a crunchy slaw.…

Bywater Brew Pub 3000 Royal St. • New Orleans 504-766-8118 bywaterbrewpub.com SINCE BOTH ARE FRENCH-INFLUENCED and have an affinity for rice, salt, seafood, and heat, it’s a wonder we don’t see more Vietnamese-Cajun food throughout Louisiana. Now, diners around the Crescent City can get a taste of that culinary mash-up from Chef Anh Luu at Bywater Brew Pub, which opened late last year. Anh is a born-and-raised New Orleanian who got her first kitchen job in high school before moving to Portland, Oregon, because of Hurricane Katrina in 2005. She came back to cook at Café Roma, Jacques-Imo’s, and Crabby Jack’s before returning to Portland to attend culinary school. While there, she started working on and off at Tapalaya, a Cajun and Creole small plates restaurant; in 2017, she purchased…

THE IMPORTANCE OF RICE to Cajun and Creole cuisine cannot be understated. The grain has long been an essential ingredient of Louisiana cooking, appearing in nearly all of our most beloved dishes. Rice is served with gumbo, crawfish étouffée, red beans, and gravies. It’s the main ingredient in jambalaya and dirty rice, and it’s a crucial component of boudin. Southwestern Louisiana is the primary region for rice production and milling in the state. Louisiana’s rice industry took off in the 19th century, and today, the state is the third-largest producer of rice in the United States. The town of Crowley is known as the Rice Capital of America and is home to the oldest family-run rice mill in the country, Falcon Rice Mill. Versatile and easy to cook, rice remains…

Recipe Index Appetizers Andouille Sausage Arancini, 89 Butternut Squash and Goat Cheese Crostini, 71 Beverages Rosemary Syrup, 94 The Slow Prophet, 94 Desserts Apple Bourbon Bread Pudding, 72 Bananas Foster Rice Pudding, 88 Pumpkin Spice Beignets, 83 Pumpkin Cream Filling, 83 Spiked Whipped Cream, 72 Meat, Poultry, and Game Peppery Pork Tenderloins with Mustard Glaze, 71 Venison, Pork, Shrimp, and Mirliton Casserole, 30 Sauces, Seasonings, and Condiments Barbecue Sauce, 34 Champagne Vinaigrette, 71 Creamy Herb Sauce, 95 Garlic Purée, 34 Oven Roux, 56 Stovetop Roux, 56 Seafood Barbecue Shrimp Quenelles, 34 Crawfish Étouffée Curry Pasta, 80 Leah Chase’s Shrimp Clemenceau, 92 Shrimp and Grits with White Wine Sauce, 85 Shrimp-Stuffed Mirlitons, 27 Soups and Stews Amber Beef Stew, 63 Baked Potato Soup, 63 Chicken and Sausage Gumbo, 81 Pecan Soup,…

COMMONS CLUB NEW ORLEANS Set to open Labor Day weekend, Virgin Hotels New Orleans is the latest addition to the Warehouse District. The brand-new hotel from Sir Richard Branson’s hotel brand will feature 238 guest rooms, a rooftop pool and lounge, and food and beverage outlets, including its flagship restaurant, bar, and lounge called Commons Club. The kitchen at Commons Club will be led by former Chef to Watch Alex Harrell, whose menu will focus on “contemporary American cuisine with a Southern sensibility.” commonsclub.com/new-orleans MAMA RETA’S LAKE CHARLES When Hurricane Laura tore through Lake Charles last August and destroyed “Mama Reta” Nell Durgan’s home and restaurant, she temporarily moved her business to Lafayette to “keep doing what she loves to do.” When her lease is up on that location in…

MUCH IS SAID about our Founding Fathers, but I cannot help but wonder if we give similar esteem to our founding foodies—our hunters, fishermen, and farmers. While I greatly admire our Founding Fathers, as a chef, I also cherish those who traverse the wilderness, sweep the seas, and till the earth. Hunting and thoughts of hunting have dominated men’s lives throughout their existence. Capturing game meant not only food but also clothing, tools, and the creation of art in the form of carved bones and painted skins. With the discovery of fire, humanity and civilization were revolutionized. Hunting and fire dramatically increased food choices and nutrition, and the art of cooking began. The communal evening fire brought people together to eat, socialize, talk, and plan. Storytelling around the fire was…

THE FIRST SIGNS of fall send many of us into a craze for all things pumpkin-flavored. This year, we’re thinking beyond pumpkin spice coffees and pumpkin pie by putting a spin on New Orleans’ fried dough specialty, beignets. These beignets get a double dose of pumpkin flavor with a creamy pumpkin filling that gets piped into the center and a dusting of confectioners’ sugar and pumpkin pie spice. They’re the perfect way to celebrate the season. PUMPKIN SPICE BEIGNETS MAKES ABOUT 24 This recipe offers a seasonal twist on beignets with a creamy pumpkin filling. ½ cup warm water (105° to 110°)1½ teaspoons active dry yeast¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar, divided½ cup boiling water½ cup evaporated milk2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted2 teaspoons kosher salt1 teaspoon vanilla extract1 large…

“I HOPE [YOUNGER GENERATIONS] WILL SEE HOW BLACK CHEFS WORKED HARD TO MAKE CREOLE COOKING IMPORTANT.”—LEAH CHASE WHEN NATHANIEL BURTON AND RUDY LOMBARD first published Creole Feast: Fifteen Master Chefs of New Orleans Reveal Their Secrets in 1978, they shone a spotlight on the significant contributions of Black chefs who were cooking in some of the city’s most famous restaurants. Reprinted in 2020 by the University of New Orleans Press, Creole Feast is a compendium of stories and recipes from celebrated chefs including Leah Chase, Austin Leslie, Annie Laura Squalls, Louise Joshua, and Letitia Parker. In his introduction, Rudy Lombard emphasizes the importance of recognizing the role these chefs played in defining Creole cuisine. In the original edition, the late civil rights activist and former Freedom Rider wrote, “It is…

From jambalaya and gumbo to muffulettas and beignets, the Bayou State is home to some of the most delicious food you’ll find anywhere in the world. It’s easy to cook Cajun and Creole cuisine at home when you have the right ingredients, and the good news is that these ingredients can be found in most grocery stores. Andouille sausage, rice, hot sauce, cane syrup, dried beans—the list goes on and on, and every Louisiana cook has their preferred brand that suits their tastes. If you’re like us, you keep a well-stocked pantry and fridge so you can cook up your favorite Louisiana dishes any time a craving hits. In this list, you’ll find a few of the items we like to use for everyday cooking. We know that everyone has…

AS SUMMER WINDS DOWN and fall calendars fill up, it’s nice to have an easy dinner recipe in your back pocket for busy weeknights. That’s where this recipe for shrimp and grits comes in. With just a few ingredients, many of which you may already have in your pantry or fridge, you’ll be on your way to a flavorful, satisfying dinner. The shrimp are cooked with Creole seasoning, andouille sausage, and white wine and spooned over a bed of creamy grits. SHRIMP AND GRITS WITH WHITE WINE SAUCE MAKES 4 SERVINGS This elegant take on the comfort food favorite features a creamy white wine sauce. 1 tablespoon unsalted butter1 cup chopped andouille sausage¼ cup chopped sweet onion¼ cup chopped red bell pepper1 tablespoon chopped garlic1½ teaspoons Creole seasoning1 pound peeled…