Innholdsfortegnelse for July/August 2021 i Louisiana Cookin'

WITH THEIR FLUFFY SHAVED ICE and sticky sweet syrup, snoballs have been one of my favorite sugary treats ever since I was a kid growing up in south Louisiana. Each summer, my siblings and I would ride our bikes to the nearest snoball stand and cool off with our flavor of choice (in my case, sour apple). I look forward to enjoying a few snoballs this summer, but those aren’t the only chilly treats I’ve got my eye on. In this issue, you’ll find irresistible recipes for frozen and chilled desserts to keep you cool all summer. With cinnamon, brown sugar, and height-of-the-season peaches, our No-Churn Peaches Foster Ice Cream (page 53) is at the top of my list. Make sure to save space in your freezer for a few…

OKRA IS A FAVORITE VEGETABLE of Louisiana, where it is easily found in home gardens and farmers’ markets throughout the hot summer months. In the Bayou State, okra is most commonly seen in hearty gumbos, but it is a versatile vegetable that is also a treat when pickled, roasted, grilled, or fried. Here, we sautéed okra and stirred it into chicken stew, quick-pickled it as a tangy deviled egg mix-in, and oven-roasted it with spices and served it with a smoky dipping sauce for a unique appetizer or side. CHICKEN AND OKRA STEW MAKES ABOUT 8 SERVINGS This summery stew is like a gumbo without the roux. 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided2 teaspoons paprika1 teaspoon kosher salt3 large boneless skinless chicken breasts, chopped into 1-inch pieces (about 3 cups)½ pound…

Pat’s Rest Awhile 2129 Lakeshore Dr. • Mandeville 985-951-2173 facebook.com/PatsRestAwhile WHEN THE FRAPART HOTEL WAS BUILT IN 1880, Mandeville was in a golden age. Visitors from crowded New Orleans would come to the area for a respite from the bustle and tropical heat, and the new grand hotel on Lake Pontchartrain was a highlight. Since then, the building provided shelter for women and children and was eventually battered by Hurricane Katrina in 2005. Seeing the value in this historic structure, Jill and Barrett McGuire purchased and spent years restoring the property. The timing could not have been better, because had they not raised the remaining structures, Hurricane Isaac may very well have completely destroyed them in 2012. Northshore chef Pat Gallagher (owner of Gallagher’s in Covington, Gallagher’s 527 in Mandeville,…

ORANGE-BASIL GRANITA MAKES 4 SERVINGS Made with just a handful of ingredients, this refreshing granita is the perfect summer dessert. 1½ cups water½ cup sugar⅓ cup fresh basil leaves2 teaspoons orange zest½ cup fresh orange juiceGarnish: orange slices, fresh basil leaves 1. In a medium saucepan, bring 1½ cups water, sugar, basil, and orange zest to a boil over medium-high heat; reduce heat, and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, cover, and let stand for 15 minutes. 2. Strain mixture into a freezer-safe 13x9-inch baking dish. Stir in orange juice. Freeze until edges begin to set, 30 to 35 minutes. 3. Using a fork, scrape mixture to break up frozen pieces. Freeze until mixture resembles fluffy shaved ice, about 4 hours, scraping every 30 minutes to break up frozen…

IN MOST RESTAURANTS and home kitchens in the Bayou State, you’ll find at least one bottle of hot sauce from brands like TABASCO, Crystal, Louisiana, and Trappey’s. Made with red chiles, salt, and vinegar, Louisiana-style hot sauce has a unique spice and flavor that has made it a household staple not only in Louisiana but throughout the country. Adding a dash or two to red beans and rice or jambalaya is always a good idea, but we also love using hot sauce as a main flavor ingredient in recipes like macaroni and cheese or buttery shrimp. SPICY MACARONI AND CHEESE MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS Smoked Gouda, hot sauce, and Dijon mustard lend a unique flavor to this creamy dish. 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided1 tablespoon all-purpose flour2½ cups whole…

PRESENTED BY CAMELLIA BRAND BIRDY’S BEHIND THE BOWER NEW ORLEANS The team behind Tujague’s, the Bower, and Claret Wine & Cocktail Bar opened its newest spot in the Framework building on Magazine Street. Birdy’s Behind the Bower is a breakfast, brunch, and lunch restaurant that serves Southern-inspired cuisine in its chic dining room and welcoming outdoor courtyard. Dishes range from heartier fare like the Fried Chicken Biscuit with cane syrup country gravy to lighter bites like the Sugar Roots Bowl with quinoa, fresh veggies, and apple cider vinaigrette. birdysnola.com FAUBOURG BREWING CO. NEW ORLEANS The Crescent City’s oldest brewery relaunched as Faubourg Brewing Co. and opened its brand-new 85,000-square-foot New Orleans East brewery in March. It originally opened as Dixie Brewing in 1907 at the corner of Tulane Avenue and…

I’M SURE YOU’VE HEARD the phrase “don’t judge a book by its cover.” I implore you not to judge a dish by its ingredients either. I learned this myself in August 2017 when I finally embarked on a trip to the land of my ancestors, Germany. Within an hour of clearing customs and renting a car at Frankfurt International Airport, I was strolling the streets of Schlierbach, Germany, where my seventh great-grandfather, Hans Peter Voltz, was born around 1618. Just as my ancestors had crossed Germany and France in search of a new homeland in Louisiana, so did I crisscross Germany and France not only in search of my German roots but in search of Germany’s tapestry of flavor as well. I traveled from Schlierbach to Kaiserslautern to Ramstein and…

SUMMER PASTA SALAD MAKES 2 SERVINGS Hot sauce and Creole seasoning kick up the heat in this summery pasta salad. ⅓ cup mayonnaise1 tablespoon hot sauce½ to 1 teaspoon Creole seasoning½ teaspoon fresh lemon juice4 ounces fusilli pasta, cooked al dente according to package directions and cooled⅓ cup cherry or grape tomatoes, halved⅓ cup chopped red bell pepper¼ cup sliced green onion1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme1 teaspoon chopped fresh oreganoGarnish: chopped fresh parsley 1. In a small bowl, stir together mayonnaise, hot sauce, Creole seasoning, and lemon juice. 2. In a medium bowl, toss together pasta, tomatoes, bell pepper, green onion, thyme, and oregano. Add mayonnaise mixture to pasta mixture, stirring to coat. Garnish with parsley, if desired. CREOLE GRILLED CORN MAKES 2 SERVINGS Corn on the cob gets slathered…

ZUCCHINI CRAB SALAD WITH LEMON-HERB VINAIGRETTE MAKES 4 SERVINGS The delicate flavor of lump crabmeat is beautifully accented with a lemony vinaigrette in this zucchini salad. 1 teaspoon lemon zest2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice1 teaspoon Dijon mustard½ teaspoon sugar½ teaspoon kosher salt¼ teaspoon ground black pepper¼ cup olive oil2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley1 (10-ounce) package fresh spiralized zucchini (about 3 cups)1 cup fresh corn kernels¼ cup thinly sliced red onion1 (8-ounce) container lump crabmeat, picked free of shell1 cup cherry tomatoes, halvedGarnish: lemon slices, fresh basil 1. In a small bowl, whisk together lemon zest and juice, mustard, sugar, salt, and pepper. Whisk in oil in a slow, steady stream until combined. Add basil, mint, and parsley. 2. In a large bowl,…

AS BERRIES AND STONE FRUITS achieve peak ripeness, it’s time to break out our best cobbler recipes. Peach cobbler and blackberry cobbler are two of our favorites, and in this recipe, we combined them for a showstopping dessert with a beautiful lattice crust. As the berries and peaches bake, their juices bubble up and create an amazing syrupy texture. The only thing that could make this cobbler even more decadent is serving it with vanilla ice cream. PEACH AND BLACKBERRY COBBLER MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS The flavor of peak summer fruit shines in this decadent cobbler recipe. 6 cups sliced fresh peaches¾ cup granulated sugar5 tablespoons cornstarch2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice½ teaspoon ground cinnamon¼ teaspoon kosher salt¼ teaspoon ground ginger2 cups fresh blackberriesButtermilk Pie Dough (recipe follows)1 large egg1 teaspoon…

“REAL CAJUN FOOD TRANSLATES TO THE BEST INGREDIENTS OF THE AREA, SIMPLY PREPARED.”—DONALD LINK LOUISIANA’S CAJUN COUNTRY is a region with rich cultural and culinary heritage, one which is quite often misunderstood by outsiders. If there is one cookbook that captures a picture of what life is like there, it’s Real Cajun (Clarkson Potter, 2009), the first cookbook from Chef Donald Link (of New Orleans’ Link Restaurant Group, which includes Herbsaint and Cochon, among others). Throughout its pages, he takes readers on a culinary journey through the heart of Acadiana and shares the stories of the food he grew up eating. Written with Paula Disbrowe and photographed by Chris Granger, Real Cajun conveys a very specific sense of place through its recipes, commentary, and photos. As Donald explains in his…

THIS TIME OF YEAR, Louisiana seafood and produce really shine. Summer vegetables like zucchini and peppers are abundant, and seafood like red snapper is brought in from the warm Gulf waters, ready to be seared, grilled, or roasted. If you’re looking for the perfect warm-weather dinner to serve to loved ones this summer, make this recipe your go-to. The vegetable medley highlights the season’s freshest flavors, and the red snapper is complemented by a bright sauce made with lemon juice and fresh dill and parsley. SEARED RED SNAPPER WITH VEGGIES AND LEMON-HERB SAUCE MAKES 4 SERVINGS This recipe makes for an easy and delicious dinner any night of the week. 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided1 cup chopped yellow bell pepper (about 1 large bell pepper)1 cup sliced carrots (about 2…

IT MIGHT SEEM LIKE RICE, CRAWFISH, AND VODKA have nothing in common, but these three products are more intertwined than one might think. One south Louisiana family seized an opportunity to evolve their rice farming operation to get the most value out of their land, and today, they also run a successful crawfish farm and a distillery. Mike Frugé’s ancestors migrated to south Louisiana in the late 1800s in search of better opportunities. His great-great-uncle John Meleck (the vodka’s namesake) started farming rice as a way to feed his family. The rice was planted in low-lying marsh and was called “Providence rice” because it did not require equipment and instead relied on the right weather conditions to provide rainwater for the crop. Mike and his brother, Mark, are the fourth…

CORN CAKES MAKES 8 Turn fresh summer corn into crisp cakes studded with fresh herbs and roasted red peppers. 2 ears yellow corn in husks⅔ cup plain yellow cornmeal½ cup all-purpose flour3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley1½ teaspoons Creole seasoning1 teaspoon baking powder⅔ cup whole milk¼ cup diced roasted red peppers, drained1 tablespoon vegetable oilSpicy Dipping Sauce (recipe follows)Garnish: chopped fresh chives, fresh parsley leaves, grilled corn kernels 1. Heat a cast-iron grill pan over medium heat. Spray pan with cooking spray. Add corn in husks to pan, and cook, turning occasionally, until husks are charred, about 20 minutes. Let stand until cool enough to handle. Shuck corn; add corn on cob to pan, and cook, turning frequently, until charred and tender, about 10 minutes. Let cool;…

DURING THE WARM MONTHS of summer, one of our favorite ways to enjoy Louisiana seafood is a shrimp boil with all the fixings. In this recipe, we put a twist on traditional boil ingredients by tossing them with penne pasta. Instead of boiling the corn, we grilled it for extra depth of flavor, and we also added andouille to the mix for a little smokiness. This hearty recipe comes together in a snap for an easy dinner to feed the whole family. SHRIMP BOIL PASTA MAKES 6 SERVINGS This pasta dish is packed with the flavors of a summertime shrimp boil. 2 tablespoons unsalted butter1 pound large fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon Creole seasoning, divided1⅓ cups chopped yellow onion (about ½ large onion)⅔ cup chopped red…

THE PARAKEET NORDINE was the first cocktail I put on the menu when I took over the bar program at SoBou. I had been working on the ratios for a while, and the recipe means a lot to me. It is simple, delicate, and balanced. Chartreuse, the cocktail’s most important ingredient, reminds me of being a brand-new bartender in New Orleans. In New Orleans, Chartreuse will always be tied to Victory Bar. The bar has a special chiller for it and several off-menu cocktails that feature the spirit, and during my time working there, the end of the night was almost always marked with a Chartreuse toast. Acquiring a taste for it, memorizing its history to deliver by heart, and learning to balance the unruly, overpowering flavor profile are all…