Innholdsfortegnelse for July/August 2020 i Louisiana Cookin'

AS I SAT DOWN TO WRITE THIS, my first editor’s letter for Louisiana Cookin’ and our Eat Local issue, I began reflecting on what it means to eat local and just how important it is, now more than ever, for us to support our local restaurants, businesses, farmers, and fishermen. Louisiana was still under a stay-at-home order when we went to press on this issue, meaning restaurants throughout the state were limited to takeout or delivery, with many deciding to temporarily close. Food is an intrinsic part of our culture in Louisiana, and I don’t think it’s a stretch to say that restaurants are the lifeblood of our communities. Over the past few weeks, it has been inspiring to see the ways local restaurants and businesses have adapted to this…

ONE OF THE BEST summertime experiences is biting into a perfectly ripe, juicy peach. It’s the height of peach season in Louisiana, when our local farmers’ markets and grocery stores are brimming with these gems of summer. After savoring our first peach of the season, we’ll be looking forward to incorporating them into a variety of sweet and savory recipes, including a creamy slab pie, gooey cobbler bars, and a grilled salad with a zippy Basil Dressing. PEACH COBBLER BARS MAKES 12 This recipe transforms one of our favorite desserts into portable treats. 2½ cups all-purpose flour1½ cups sugar, divided½ cup old-fashioned oats2 teaspoons lemon zest1 teaspoon baking powder¼ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt, divided1 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces1 large egg, lightly beaten3 tablespoons cornstarch1…

Summer in Louisiana is blue crab season. Technically, these snappy critters are in season for most of the year, but when temperatures rise and the brackish coastal waters heat up, blue crabs start eating more and grow larger and meatier. The Bayou State is the nation’s number one supplier of domestic blue crab, with more than 80 percent of the Gulf of Mexico’s catch coming from Louisiana shores. Blue crabs, so named because of their sapphire-hued claws, are a fundamental ingredient in Cajun and Creole cuisine, and these warmer months are the perfect time to enjoy them. For many folks, sitting down to a table of boiled crabs is the best way to eat them. Boiled crabs are standard summer fare in backyards and at seafood joints in every corner…

THE SENSATION SALAD holds a special place in the hearts of those who live in Baton Rouge. Popularized by the now-closed Government Street restaurant Bob and Jake’s, this simple salad is served with a zesty dressing made with oil, lemon juice, garlic, and Romano cheese. And while it is a Red Stick signature, there was a time not all that long ago when Sensation Salad devotees could find the beloved dressing only at restaurants. Today, Sensation dressing is on hundreds of shelves throughout the Southeast thanks to Baton Rouge native Richard Hanley, who started Hanley’s Foods with his wife, Kate, in 2012. “I was going to the store, and I was questioning why you could never buy a bottle of Sensation,” Richard says. “It’s this delicious dressing that’s found in…

We normally use this space to let you know about local restaurant openings and events, but at the time we went to press on this issue, the state of Louisiana was under a stay-at-home order, and there were still some uncertainties about what the future would hold. As we were putting this issue together, we felt that this space would be best used to highlight people and organizations in the local food community doing their part to help others. The restaurant industry has been among those most affected by the coronavirus shutdown. Around Louisiana, the pandemic forced restaurants to shut their doors to the public and transition to doing takeout or delivery or shutter operations altogether for the time being. However, throughout this incredibly difficult time, many restaurants and others…

EVERY SUNDAY AFTER MASS at St. James Catholic Church, Daddy would pile all eight of us in his Chevrolet coupe and we’d make our way down River Road to Vacherie Lane. Waiting for us with open arms were Mamere and Papere Folse. Only grandparents could be that excited to see eight kids under 13 years old arriving for the day. Papere was a raconteur extraordinaire and always had a tall tale that kept us spellbound while Mamere mesmerized us with a huge crock bowl filled with sweet farre dressing in the center of the kitchen table. The Wonder Bread was only inches away for us to make sweet farre dressing sandwiches. While I loved sweet farre, it was her Lac Des Allemands crab gumbo simmering on the back of the…

Summer is a great time of year for cooking with fresh veggies. Farmers’ markets and home gardens are overflowing with vibrant produce. Two stars of Louisiana’s summer harvest are tomatoes and peppers, and we’ve come up with a few satisfying ways to make the most of them while they’re in peak season. In addition to our beloved Creole tomatoes, cherry tomatoes and plum tomatoes are abundant here and are excellent options for tossing into a fresh salsa (along with a variety of fresh chile peppers) or slow-roasting for a tomato sauce. Charring red bell peppers brings out bold flavors in our versatile romesco sauce. Plus, we show you how to use dried chile peppers in the smoky harissa that accompanies our crispy fried chicken. SHRIMP CREOLE WITH SLOW-ROASTED TOMATOES MAKES…

Louisiana waters are blessed with an abundance of fresh seafood, including a Southern favorite, the humble catfish. Throughout the year, catfish can be caught in ponds, streams, lakes, and rivers from north to south Louisiana. Many seafood restaurants have become well-known for their crispy fried catfish, and though it’s tough to beat a plate piled high with some good old-fashioned fried catfish, there are even more ways to savor this flaky fish. Whether it’s blackened and served po’ boy-style, wrapped in bacon and cooked until crispy, or poached in buttermilk and served over fluffy rice, you’re sure to love these new catfish recipes. SMOKED CATFISH DIP MAKES 2 CUPS In this recipe, we infused catfish with bold flavor by smoking it on the stove. ¾ cup apple wood chips (4…

WHEN IT COMES TO PIES, we are big fans of the chocolate cream variety. Flaky piecrust filled with chilled chocolate pudding and topped with whipped cream? It doesn’t get much better than that. This pie starts with an easy homemade piecrust and is finished with coffee-infused chocolate custard and fluffy whipped cream. The ultimate make-ahead dessert, this pie sets up in just a few hours in the fridge and is a chocolate and coffee lover’s dream come true. CHOCOLATE CHICORY CREAM PIE MAKE 1 (9-INCH) PIE Coffee and chicory gives this chocolate cream pie a distinctly New Orleans twist. Piecrust (recipe follows)6 large egg yolks2 cups heavy whipping cream, divided6 tablespoons cornstarch⅓ cup unsweetened cocoa powder½ cup boiling water¼ cup ground coffee and chicory*1½ cups half-and-half1 cup granulated sugar1½ teaspoons…

THROUGHOUT HER TIME counseling clients at Ochsner Fitness Center, registered dietician Molly Kimball would hear from clients who could stick to their meal plans when cooking at home but who had trouble knowing what to order when dining out or attending festivals. When Ochsner Health System asked her how they could have a bigger impact on the community, she proposed Eat Fit, a program that collaborates with local restaurants to offer nutritious options. Eat Fit launched in 2013, and today, with the help of Blue Cross Blue Shield of Louisiana, it has expanded statewide, with about 350 restaurants participating. Now, Molly is sharing recipes for her favorite Eat Fit dishes in The Eat Fit Cookbook (River Road Press, 2019). Eat Fit-approved dishes must meet certain nutrition criteria—no refined carbohydrates, low…

SUMMER GRILLING SEASON IS UPON US, and we can’t wait to fire up our grills and cook up some delicious dinners. When it comes to grilling proteins, seafood is a natural choice for us here in Louisiana. Shrimp, fish, and even crabs hold up beautifully over an outdoor grill, which gives them a delightfully smoky flavor. When cooking with fish, we have an abundance of options from which to choose. In addition to familiar species like redfish, red snapper, and trout, swordfish is also readily available. Swordfish is an ideal choice for grilling because its sturdy flesh holds up well over an open flame or on a grill pan. Not only that, but its mild flavor works beautifully with the aroma of the smoke and the variety of fresh herbs…

SUMMER SIZZLES in south Louisiana, and it’s also very cool. There are a few gastronomic icons enjoyed year-round that are especially nice when the temperature soars, and their origin stories are equally—dare we say it?—cool. Summer without lemon icebox pie, iced tea, or snoballs would be heart-melting. Ice and New Orleans are inseparable as a summer necessity. Ice itself is ancient, though the icebox wasn’t around in earnest until the 1830s. Ice storage and ice wagons were here around 1865, and there’s this fun fact: in 1868, Louisiana Ice Works on Tchoupitoulas Street was the world’s first commercial ice plant. Fascinatingly, there are a few interesting chilly Louisiana food and drink traditions and a couple “firsts.” With the advent of the icebox came icebox pies. A Southern summer staple, icebox…

DURING THE HOT MONTHS of summer, we are always reaching for recipes that come together with little cook time. Stir-fries are a terrific option because they typically need only a few basic ingredients and don’t require you to stand over the stove for very long. This stir-fry combines some of our favorite summer produce—okra and Creole tomatoes—with shrimp and a slightly spicy sauce for an easy dinner you can whip up in a jiffy. SHRIMP AND OKRA STIR-FRY MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS Fresh okra, juicy Creole tomatoes, and plump shrimp cook up quickly in this simple stir-fry. 3 tablespoons canola oil½ pound fresh okra, quartered lengthwise1 cup diced yellow onion2 cloves garlic, minced2 cups ½-inch-diced Creole tomatoes2 tablespoons lemon juice2 tablespoons soy sauce1 tablespoon hot sauce½ pound peeled and…

WHEN MY PARTNERS AND I had Café Henri, our old restaurant in the Bywater, the Lost Bayou Ramblers came in before they played a show at the Music Box. The singer for the band brought in this bag of sticks and leaves and asked, “Can you make me a tea with this with lemon and honey?” I made it for him, but I was like, “What is it?” And he told me all about manglier, a wild herb that grows in Louisiana, and a very popular cold remedy medicine in Acadiana. His girlfriend actually collects it wild and sells it, and he left me with a bag of it. I thought, “This is so interesting and super cool,” so the idea behind this Manglier Smash was to make a cocktail…