Innholdsfortegnelse for March/April 2020 i Louisiana Cookin'

LOUISIANA is a land of traditions. Every region, city, and family have their own set of beloved rituals they use to celebrate the passage of time, from Pierre C. Shadeaux forecasting the length of our spring in New Iberia to the countless pounds of Bayou State crawfish cooked up at Good Friday crawfish boils. Food plays a large part in those civic and family affairs, and that is why I look forward to this issue every year. Finding new ways to work with crawfish tails and our other spring delicacies is not only a lot of fun but also an important part of what we do here. Every family has their must-make dishes for parties large and small, but I hope that when you see this collection of seasonal recipes,…

ARTICHOKES WERE FIRST INTRODUCED to the Bayou State in the 19th century by French settlers, and ever since, Louisianans have been enamored with the green globes. One of the most popular way to eat artichokes in south Louisiana was brought here by Sicilians, who would stuff the leaves with a well-seasoned bread crumb mixture. This spring, we’re excited to try a few fresh recipes featuring tender artichokes, including a grain salad, fried artichoke hearts, and braised artichokes in a savory tomato sauce. BRAISED ARTICHOKES MAKES ABOUT 4 SERVINGS These simple artichokes are cooked in a tasty tomato sauce. We suggest serving with crusty bread for soaking up all the sauce. 3 tablespoons unsalted butter2 large fresh artichokes, trimmed, quartered, and cleaned1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes1 cup dry white wine½ cup…

Chef Logan Boudreaux Cinclare 601 W. 3rd St. • Thibodaux 985.227.9507 • cinclarefoodanddrink.com THE CUISINES OF LOUISIANA and the South take a modern spin at Cinclare, an intimate, contemporary bistro in downtown Thibodaux where Chef Logan Boudreaux is shaking up tradition with worldly flavors and fresh takes on local fare. “With Louisiana cuisine being so rooted in tradition, I feel like it’s nice to give the public a taste of something they’re not used to having,” he says. Like many who were born and raised in Louisiana, Logan grew up watching his parents and grandmother cooking from scratch. But the Raceland native’s passion for food really started developing when his family moved to Venezuela for a year when he was a child. “That trip really started my interest in cooking,…

ONE OF THE BEST THINGS about winter and early spring in south Louisiana is the abundance of fresh citrus, including the Meyer lemon. Thought to be a cross between a regular lemon and a mandarin orange, this variety of lemon is a favorite backyard tree in this region due to its cold hardiness. Meyer lemons can be used whenever you want a burst of sweet citrus flavor without the acidic bite of regular lemons, and it’s a wonderful addition to both savory and sweet dishes, including a traditional lemon meringue pie. MEYER LEMON MERINGUE PIE MAKES 1 (9-INCH) PIE Topped with an easy Italian meringue, this gorgeous pie highlights the slightly sweet flavor of fresh Meyer lemon juice. Pie Dough (recipe follows)2¾ cups sugar, divided1½ cups plus ⅓ cup water,…

CHEF TENNEY FLYNN wants people to be less afraid of cooking fish at home. Since opening upscale seafood restaurant GW Fins in New Orleans’ French Quarter nearly two decades ago, the chef and fisherman has earned a reputation as an expert on Gulf seafood. Now, Tenney is sharing his love for seafood and demystifying the art of preparing it at home in his first cookbook, The Deep End of Flavor: Recipes and Stories from New Orleans’ Premier Seafood Chef (Gibbs Smith, 2019). “Over the years, I found out that even people who cook a lot at home are kind of afraid of fish,” Tenney says. “And to me, seafood in general, and particularly finfish, is the easiest protein to cook, and it’s the fastest. I wanted to share some of…

MICHELADAS are something we serve at brunch every weekend at Cane & Table. They’re great for when you’re just hanging out with your friends. I also like them because they’re easy to make in that you always have some hot sauce around. For micheladas, you want to use a beer that’s a little bit sweeter than you’d want to drink all the time. We use Estrella Galicia at the restaurant. It’s a nice Spanish lager beer that’s got a little bit of a caramelly Tootsie Roll kind of vibe, which is a good foil to the sugar and lime juice. We mix up a blend of hot sauces using Valentina and different Mexican hot sauces. The Valentina has a very staunch cumin vibe, which gives the drink a nice lift…

SOFAB GUMBO GARDEN NEW ORLEANS The Southern Food & Beverage Museum recently unveiled its new outdoor exhibit and event space, the Gumbo Garden, which will be used for a variety of programs and both private and public events. The 3,200-square-foot area features a main dining pavilion, a whole-hog barbecue pit, crawfish boiler, outdoor deep-fryers, and more. With this outdoor cooking equipment, the Meat Sciences Department will expand its professional development classes, and the children’s cooking programs will now have a teaching vegetable garden. natfab.org BLDG 5 BATON ROUGE This marketplace, eatery, and patio opened last fall under the Perkins Road overpass. Husband-and-wife team Brumby and Misti Broussard transformed the building into a space where folks can pick up prepared meals or dine in. Much of the menu features dishes made…

WHEN I WAS GROWING UP, Good Friday wasspent helping my mother and aunts stuff crawfish heads for our annual Easter Sunday crawfish bisque. The tradition continues, but this year, I’m adding turtle soup to our menu. Turtles have been consumed throughout history and were an important food source for sailors and pirates. Our beloved Bienville, founder of New Orleans, had the privilege of dining on soft-shell turtle soup. Even Pierre Clément de Laussat, Napoleon Bonaparte’s envoy for the Louisiana Purchase, became enamored with the reptile, writing that the Mississippi River provided soft-shell turtles that connoisseurs preferred and cooks prepared perfectly. “UNCLE PAUL TAUGHT US THAT TURTLE MEAT HAD DISTINCT COLORS AS WELL AS SEVEN DISTINCT FLAVORS.” Soupe à la tortue has long been a Creole favorite. In fact, Sharon Stallworth…

CRAWFISH-CHIVE CORNMEAL CAKES MAKES 18 TO 20 These cornmeal cakes have plenty of chopped crawfish tails for some Bayou State flavor. 1 cup self-rising flour1 cup self-rising yellow cornmeal2 teaspoons sugar1 teaspoon garlic powder¼ teaspoon ground black pepper¾ cup whole buttermilk, room temperature⅓ cup water, room temperature¼ cup vegetable oil, plus more for frying2 large eggs, room temperature½ cup chopped crawfish tails, drained and rinsed¼ cup finely chopped fresh chives¾ cup sour cream¼ cup Creole mustardGarnish: ground black pepper, chopped fresh chives, cooked crawfish tails 1. Line a baking sheet with paper towels. 2. In a large bowl, combine flour, cornmeal, sugar, garlic powder, and black pepper. Make a well in center of flour mixture; add buttermilk, ⅓ cup water, oil, and eggs, whisking until well combined. Stir in crawfish and…

Hot Tails 1113 Hospital Rd. • New Roads 225.638.4676 hottailsrestaurant.com CHEF CODY CARROLL has kept himself quite busy since being named a Chef to Watch in 2014. At that point, he had ended his reign as King of Louisiana Seafood and was running Hot Tails, a popular crawfish joint in New Roads. He and his wife, Samantha (a trained chef herself and now executive director of the Louisiana Seafood Promotion and Marketing Board), were about to open a restaurant in New Orleans’ Warehouse District, and from there, they shot a series for the Food Network. Now they are preparing to open a second Hot Tails, in Gonzales. In this comforting brunch recipe, Cody combines a rich crawfish étouffée with impossibly creamy grits and tops it all off with a runny…

Recipe Index Appetizers Cajun Spiced Crispy Red Beans, 54 Cane Syrup-Glazed Lamb Lollipops, 58 Mini Muffulettas, 58 Shrimp & Pork Meatballs with Pepper Jelly Glaze, 58 Spicy Pimiento Cheese Dip, 54 Beverages Michelada, 94 Simple Syrup, 95 Desserts Flourless Chocolate Cake, 83 Meyer Lemon Meringue Pie, 77 Pie Dough, 77 Meat, Poultry, and Game Homemade Italian Meatballs, 32 Roast Shoulder of Lamb with Rosemary and White Wine, 70 Sauces, Seasonings, and Condiments Brioche Croutons, 64 Cajun Select Seasoning, 91 Chipotle Slaw, 87 Mustard-Caper Sauce, 49 Red Gravy, 31 Seafood Baked Stuffed Clams, 69 Cheesy Shrimp & Andouille Quiche, 79 Crawfish & Grits, 91 Crawfish and Andouille Pasta, 48 Crawfish- and Rice-Stuffed Peppers, 50 Crawfish Boil Frittata Muffins, 45 Crawfish Bread Bites, 43 Crawfish-Chive Cornmeal Cakes, 41 Crawfish Dip, 47 Crawfish…

What makes a perfect Bloody Mary? Can it be bought in a jar, or should the ingredients be lovingly combined by a bartender-alchemist? How much does the drink’s setting or the drinker’s company add to the overall enjoyment? Is there such a thing as too many toppings? We asked ourselves all of these questions and more as we scoured the state for exceptional Bloody Marys, and we think you’ll be pleased with the results. From seemingly simple, pared-down cocktails all the way to meals in a glass, we fell in love all over again with this savory morning tradition. All of this variation and one-upmanship shouldn’t be surprising. From potentially inventing brunch in the 19th century to the addition of live jazz bands marching through the dining room, Louisianans have…

“THERE’S A STRICT REALITY to working with chocolate; it’s science-based. Flavors are where things can get playful,” says Chris Nobles, owner and chief chocolatier at Piety and Desire Chocolate in New Orleans. Chris is a master at both the science and the playfulness of chocolate. His product, stunning handmade chocolates in bars and bonbons, reflect Chris’ passion and are delicious. A native New Orleanian with no formal culinary training, Chris cooked for fun through high school and college. In school, his educational interests leaned toward subjects that blended science and art; for him, that meant music, psychology, history, and photography. Discovering chocolate as a creative outlet fed Chris’ dual nature and was, in a word, sweet. He says he strives to “strike the perfect harmony between reverence and passion in…