Innholdsfortegnelse for July/August 2019 i Louisiana Cookin'

SNOBALLS ARE A SUMMER OBSESSION of mine, just as they are for many people in New Orleans. I’ll wait in long lines at Hansen’s, Ro-Bear’s, and Pandora’s for some sweet, snowy goodness, but I’ve always wanted to bring an authentic, foolproof recipe to the pages of Louisiana Cookin’. For years, I’ve worked with the talented folks in our test kitchen to do so, but it’s never quite worked out. Between time-tested machinery and more than a little magic, snoballs are just something you’re going to have to travel for, I guess. So, while you won’t find a snoball recipe in this issue, I hope you’ll be delighted by a few other frosty treats. The bracing Watermelon-Lime Granita on page 28 is a simple summer pleasure, and the Sazerac Slush on…

Gianna, the newest restaurant from Chef Donald Link’s restaurant group, opened in April on Magazine Street in New Orleans. The kitchen is helmed by Rebecca Wilcomb, who won a 2017 James Beard Award while she was chef de cuisine at Herbsaint. At Gianna, Rebecca is executive chef and a partner in the restaurant, which is named for her grandmother, Giannina, who lives in the Veneto region of Italy. We caught up with Rebecca to learn more about the inspiration behind Gianna and what to expect from the menu. Tell us about Gianna’s concept. It’s a big, beautiful Italian restaurant on a corner, where people can come and eat big family-style meals or snack and have antipasti and aperitivi. It’s a place that brings people together and highlights rustic Italian cooking,…

Pick: Watermelon should feel heavy for its size and have a hollow sound when tapped. One indicator of a good watermelon is a pale yellow belly, which indicates it has ripened in the field. Store: Large cuts of watermelon can be wrapped with plastic wrap and kept in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Cubed watermelon should be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to 6 months. Freeze cubed watermelon in a single layer on a baking sheet before adding to an airtight container.…

NEW ORLEANS HOLDS a strong connection to absinthe. Given the city’s French background and bohemian atmosphere, absinthe garnered quite a bit of popularity in the Crescent City, and locals’ love for the potent, anise-flavored spirit has not waned. Absinthe is distilled with various herbs, including anise, fennel, and Artemisia absinthium, commonly known as grand wormwood. The chlorophyll from the herbs gives absinthe its signature green color. By some accounts, a Swiss woman named Madame Henriod created absinthe in the late 1700s, and it was later adopted as a digestive tonic by Dr. Pierre Ordinaire, a French doctor living in Switzerland. His recipe was passed on to Daniel-Henri Dubied, who set up a small distillery with Swiss distiller Henri Louis-Pernod. By 1805, Henri opened the Maison Pernod Fils distillery in Pontarlier,…

A French-inspired brasserie named Couvant opened inside The Eliza Jane Hotel in downtown New Orleans last year. This summer, they’ve shared a few recipes with us to inspire your entertaining. Focusing on straightforward and seasonal ingredients, these shareable dishes and refreshing cocktails are sure to enliven any patio party. May they serve as a reminder for us all to explore the adventures of our own backyards with plenty of good friends around the table. OUI MAKES 1 SERVING Cinnamon-infused simple syrup and fresh grapefruit juice are a lovely pair in this cocktail. 2½ ounces fresh grapefruit juice 1½ ounces Don Q Cristal Rum ½ ounce La Favorite Rhum Agricole Blanc ¼ ounce Cinnamon Syrup (recipe page 95) ¼ ounce fresh lime juice Seltzer water Garnish: grapefruit slice 1. In a…

CAESAR SALAD is one of our all-time favorites, and it really couldn’t be easier to make at home. A great Caesar salad requires a great Caesar dressing, and once you try our recipe (made with Creole mustard instead of Dijon), you’ll never want the store-bought variety again. Grilled red snapper fillets make this salad a satisfying meal. CREOLE CAESAR SALAD WITH GRILLED RED SNAPPER MAKES 4 SERVINGS Homemade sourdough croutons and grilled red snapper come together for a Caesar salad that’s sure to impress your dinner guests. 1 cup torn sourdough bread 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided ¾ teaspoon kosher salt, divided ½ teaspoon ground black pepper, divided 4 (6-ounce) red snapper fillets, skin on 8 cups chopped romaine lettuce ½ cup shaved Parmesan cheese Creole Caesar Dressing (recipe on…

WHEN SHE WAS NAMED a Chef to Watch in 2013, Bronwen Wyatt was pastry chef at La Petite Grocery in New Orleans, where she strived for straightforward, uncomplicated desserts that were not too sweet. Though her pastry philosophy has evolved over the years, she carried that vision with her when, earlier this year, she joined the teams at Bywater wine bar Bacchanal and Marigny darling Elysian Bar as pastry chef. We recently caught up with Bronwen in Bacchanal’s kitchen garden to get the scoop about her passion for ice cream and using local, seasonal ingredients in her desserts, including the recipe for Roasted Strawberry Ice Cream Sandwiches she shared with us. Q What do you have planned for the pastry programs at Bacchanal and Elysian Bar? My plans are right…

SATCHMO SUMMERFEST AUGUST 2–4, NEW ORLEANS This year marks the 19th annual celebration of the life and legacy of jazz hero Louis Armstrong at the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Satchmo SummerFest honors the New Orleans legend through music, focusing on traditional and contemporary jazz and brass. The festival is also popular for its food offerings. In the past, the culinary lineup has included Lasyone’s Meat Pie Restaurant, The Company Burger, and Plum Street Snoballs. satchmosummerfest.org…

NOTHING COOLS US OFF on hot days quite like a wedge of ice-cold watermelon. But this summer, we’re going beyond the basics and using the juicy, sweet fruit in unexpected yet delicious ways. From a twist on salsa to a bracing granita, these refreshing watermelon recipes will help you stay cool this summer and are sure to be a welcome addition to your table all season long. CHORIZO STREET TACOS WITH WATERMELON SALSA MAKES 10 Chorizo is great for weeknight taco cravings. Watermelon replaces tomato in our salsa while Rémoulade Sauce adds Creole flair to these tacos. 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 pound ground chuck 1 pound fresh chorizo sausage, casings removed 1 cup chopped white onion 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 teaspoon chili powder 1 teaspoon ground cumin ½…

MONROE NATIVE CORY BAHR has always dreamed of owning a small, intimate restaurant. That dream came true last September when he opened Parish Restaurant & Bar in downtown Monroe, where he showcases the best regional ingredients available. Cory joined the ranks of the Louisiana Cookin’ Chefs to Watch in 2011, and the same year, he was named King of Louisiana Seafood. Since then, he has continued earning accolades, including winning an episode of Food Network’s Chopped in 2012 and making it to the finale of Food Network Star in 2017. Even with this national recognition, Cory remains committed to his hometown and to promoting what makes Southern food great. Parish resides within a former jewelry store, renovated with respect to its mid-century design. Peering inside, tall windows reveal a warmly…

Home-brewing and craft beer methods have been around for centuries. Although the craft is not exclusive to Louisiana, its resurgence here has reached fever pitch in the last decade, due in part to the success of companies like Abita Brewing Company. Since its founding in 1986, the Abita Springs-based brewery has become Louisiana’s largest craft brewery and a dominating force on the national stage. Abita Brewing Company’s boom is a reflection of Louisiana brewers’ dedication to their craft and the local culinary scene. Many home brewers and craft beer enthusiasts are opening independent breweries and brewpubs, helping seal Louisiana’s place among the ranks of excellent craft beer. Each of these breweries delivers a fresh perspective on the state, uniquely highlighting each respective region with local cuisine. Some breweries have their…

ABIGAIL SPAHT RICKS was always interested in traditional crafts such as quilting, canning, and preserving—a passion instilled in by her grandmother and her mother, Gaye Spaht. “The three of us spent so much of our free time doing our thing together, whether that was baking or cooking or something else,” says Abigail. Abigail honed those skills throughout her childhood and college at Louisiana State University, where she perfected a pickle recipe of her own. Her passion often stirred others to tell her she was born with an old soul, a phrase that later served as the inspiration when Abigail and Gaye launched Old Soul Pickles and Preserves, almost by accident. At the time, Abigail was working for a hospital that held an employee fair. She and her mother spent several…

WHEN WE’RE ROLLING deep in the summer months in New Orleans, watermelon is one of my go-to cocktail ingredients. It’s cooling, refreshing, and hydrating, especially when I’m out swimming for the day. This cocktail, which I named the Coolin’, makes me think about the hot summer days when my friends and I walk around the Crescent City streets. It combines vodka, Watermelon Syrup, and aloe liqueur for an invigorating refreshment that will help beat the heat. I used vodka from Three Roll Estate, a single-estate distillery out of Baton Rouge. Their vodka is triple-distilled from 100-percent unrefined Louisiana cane sugar grown at Alma Plantation & Sugar Mill. Cocchi Rosa, an Italian aperitivo, imbues this cocktail with floral and herbaceous tones while lemon juice cuts through the sweetness. Aloe vera has…

Autonomy, Covington The bakery and café located in historic downtown Covington celebrates its one-year anniversary July 25. Specializing in coffee, pastries, and sandwiches made with fresh bread from its bakery, Autonomy is open Wednesday through Monday for breakfast and lunch, Monday and Wednesday through Saturday for dinner, and Saturday and Sunday for brunch. autonomyrestaurant.com White Star Market, Baton Rouge The popular gourmet food hall recently launched its own monthly farmers’ market. Local vendors will be on-site with local produce and flowers, honey, handcrafted goods, and more during White Star Market’s weekend brunch hours. facebook.com/WhiteStarBR Chindian Flavors, Ruston Every other weekend, Kimlin Hall of Chindian Flavors is taking over the Grown and Grazed food truck. Originally from Trinidad, the Louisiana transplant offers a fresh and…

WHEN MY SIBLINGS AND I were growing up, summer brought freedom to fish and swim in the river whenever we wanted, but by mid-July, we were restless. That’s when Daddy packed all eight of us in his 1949 Chevrolet coupe for a vacation at Grand Isle. We were joined by most of our extended family (including aunts, uncles, and dozens of cousins), neighbors, and a few of Daddy’s coworkers. “WE TOOK TURNS WALKING THE LINE WITH THE SCOOP NET AND COLLECTING THOSE BLUE JEWELS OF THE GULF IN AN ALUMINUM WASHTUB.” We followed Highway 1, which was mostly gravel back then, from Bayou Lafourche to the Gulf. After hours of traveling, we pulled into Shady Rest apartments for a week of swimming, fishing, and crabbing. The boys and men stayed…

WHILE WE LOVE A RIPE LOUISIANA PEACH all on its own, sometimes we just have to treat ourselves by turning the juicy stone fruit into a pie filling. With a flaky, tender crust and sweet peach interior, these portable treats are a fun and delicious way to enjoy pie this summer—no fork required. BOURBON PEACH HAND PIES MAKES 14 These hand pies get a boozy twist with bourbon infused into the pie dough, peach filling, and glaze. 1¾ cups all-purpose flour, divided ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup cold unsalted butter, cubed 4 ounces cold cream cheese, cubed 2 tablespoons heavy whipping cream 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon bourbon, divided 1 pound fresh peaches, peeled and finely diced 2 tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1…

BORN AND RAISED IN THE CRESCENT CITY, Tom Fitzmorris knows a thing or two about its famously thriving culinary culture. Not only a lauded New Orleans food critic, Tom is also radio host of The Food Show in addition to authoring guides to experiencing New Orleans and several cookbooks, including Tom Fitzmorris’s New Orleans Food (Abrams, 2018). When it was originally published in 2006, New Orleans Food became an instant favorite for cookbook collectors and devotees of the cuisine. Last year, the book was revised and released with fresh, new color photography, depicting classics such as Barbecue Shrimp (which Tom thinks is the book’s best dish) and Crescent City favorites such as Drago’s Char-Broiled Oysters. Throughout New Orleans Food, Tom highlights both Cajun and Creole recipes. More than 250 recipes…