Innholdsfortegnelse for March/April 2019 i Louisiana Cookin'

SIX POUNDS, WITH A FEW POTATOES and pieces of sausage. No corn. That’s my typical plate at a crawfish boil or at one of the many boiled seafood joints around south Louisiana. If other fun fixin’s like sweet potatoes or artichokes are available, I’ll indulge, but to me, the crawfish should be the star. For most of us, though, crawfish boils are usually events that happen just a few precious times throughout the season. I am truly thankful that we have access to a bounty of fresh and frozen Louisiana crawfish tails to satiate our cravings. In this issue, we took a deep dive into some of the tastiest, most satisfying, and seriously fun crawfish dishes we’ve ever created. A few of my new favorites are the incredibly easy Crawfish…

OPPORTUNITY OFTEN ARRIVES when it is least expected, but the outcome can be rewarding. Chef Duke LoCicero opened Café Giovanni in the French Quarter in 1991. While there, he became widely known for his contemporized Creole-Italian fare, emphasizing bold Louisiana flavors in southern Italian dishes. Over the years, Duke also hosted a radio show and earned himself a collection of honors, including being named to the inaugural class of Louisiana Cookin’ Chefs to Watch in 2002. However, after 26 years in the Quarter, he closed Café Giovanni in 2017. “My restaurant was like one of my kids,” says Duke, “but it was the right time [to close].” Meanwhile, restaurateurs Mark and Donna Benfatti were busy relaunching their own restaurant on the Northshore. The Benfattis first opened N’Tini’s in Mandeville on…

1. In the bottom of a disposable roasting pan, add a layer of hickory chips. Add enough water to cover. Soak chips for 1 hour. Drain and set aside. 2. Preheat oven to 225°. Season and marinate chicken per recipe. 3. Add just enough water to coat bottom of roasting pan. You want to keep chips moistened but not covered in water. 4. Place chicken on a wire rack over prepared chips in roasting pan. Cover roasting pan tightly with foil, making a tent at top to allow steam to circulate around chicken. Bake until chicken reaches 165° on an instant-read thermometer, about 1½ to 2 hours.…

Each weekend, countless Louisianans sleep a little later and prepare for the most highly anticipated meal of the week: brunch. This celebratory feast combines the best of both breakfast and lunch in one indulgent meal. Sometimes savory, occasionally sweet, but always delicious, it’s an occasion best enjoyed with Champagne, good company, and maybe even live music. In the realm of exceptional dining, no one does it better than Louisiana when it comes to brunch. In fact, there is strong evidence to suggest the meal was popularized in 19th-century New Orleans. While classic brunch dishes will always hold a place in our hearts, we love a good twist on a familiar favorite. These 11 restaurants are among those taking brunch to the next level, emphasizing the best our region has to…

LAKE CHARLES NATIVE LYLE BROUSSARD is passionate about Louisiana seafood. When the 2016 Chef to Watch isn’t heading the kitchen at Jack Daniel’s Bar & Grill at L’Auberge Lake Charles, he fishes the waters of southwest Louisiana, catching flounder, trout, and redfish and cooking them in a variety of delicious ways. Though his menu focuses on barbecue, Lyle especially enjoys working with local seafood, and for the past few years, he and his team have participated in the Louisiana Catch and Cook program, which allows anglers to have their fresh catch prepared by a professional chef. We talked with Lyle to find out more about the program and why Redfish on the Half Shell is one of the best ways to prepare redfish. Q I understand you cook this Redfish…

ANYONE WHO IS THINKING ABOUT SPRING in Louisiana has a mind for two things: strawberries and crawfish. Yes, yes, I know they don’t exactly complement each other, but we wait all year for two of our best state events: the Louisiana Crawfish Festival (March 21–24) in Chalmette and the Ponchatoula Strawberry Festival (April 12–14). In Ponchatoula, you’ll find me at the strawberry-eating contest. I can’t help myself. I have to. And in Chalmette, you will see me eating my way through the dozens of food booths. Crawfish étouffée over fried green tomatoes, anyone? Yes, please. Crawfish chimichangas? Definitely. Crawfish boudin balls? By the dozen. It is that time of the year when we Louisianans celebrate mudbugs. Did you know that not all crawfish are red? Blue, green, and even black…

AS WE MOVE INTO SPRING, light, veggie-packed dishes are a welcome sight after winter’s rich meals. With the abundance of crawfish tails this time of year, we decided to shake up the classic French Niçoise salad with a bit of Louisiana flavor. Our version features most of the classic components—a lemon-mustard vinaigrette, green beans, potatoes, and olives—but replaces the traditional tuna with crawfish tails for one of the most satisfying meals you’ll eat all season. CRAWFISH NIÇOISE SALAD MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS Our riff on the classic Niçoise salad includes crawfish tails for some Bayou State flair. One of the things we love about this salad is the ability to customize the various components. ⅔ cup extra-virgin olive oil 6 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 3 tablespoons minced shallot 1…

WHEN I WAS GROWING UP in St. James in the 1950s, spring meant crawfish season. The weather got a little warmer each day, and the evenings were tinged with a damp coolness that built up excitement about the next day’s adventure. I can almost hear the peals of laughter that rang out as the six Folse brothers headed down Zeringue Lane with setnets, willow poles, and a bag of chicken necks. Our destination: the sand pit located just beyond Mamère Zeringue’s house. An old sawmill once stood there, making this the perfect crawfishing spot for the family. Four good setnets and a willow pole could get you a number 3 tub of crawfish in no time! Then it was off to the house for boiling or steaming them. Crawfishing on…

SHRIMP AND CRAWFISH EN PAPILLOTE MAKES 4 SERVINGS Cooking seafood and veggies en papillote—in parchment paper pouches—steams them to perfection in a flash. 1 pound very thin fresh asparagus ½ cup shaved carrot ¼ cup thinly sliced shallot ¼ cup thinly sliced fresh basil 20 grape tomatoes, halved ¼ cup dry white wine ¼ cup unsalted butter, melted 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 20 large fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined (tails left on) ½ pound crawfish tails 4 lemon slices Lemon wedges and sliced French bread, to serve Garnish: fresh basil leaves 1. Preheat oven to 400°. 2. Chop top 4 inches off asparagus. Discard remaining asparagus, or reserve for another use. 3. Place 4 (14x12-inch) sheets of parchment paper on a work surface. Divide asparagus…

BITTERS, TONICS, AND SIMPLE SYRUPS are essential elements that can make or break a cocktail. When developed with the best ingredients, each of these elements promises greatness in a glass, which is what Christa Cotton, owner of El Guapo Bitters, strives to see her handcrafted products accomplish. El Guapo Bitters was founded in 2014 by a New Orleans bartender. Within three years, the company grew more than its originator anticipated, so he invited Christa to purchase the business in 2017. At the time, Christa was working in advertising in the Crescent City but decided to seize the opportunity. “IF YOU TASTE OUR PRODUCTS AND LOOK AT OUR INGREDIENTS, IT’S OBVIOUS THAT WE STRIVE TO DO RIGHT BY FARMERS AND THE NEW ORLEANS ECONOMY.”— CHRISTA COTTON Christa is originally from a…

WITH A COMBINATION OF liquor, citrus juice, and a sweetener, sour cocktails are some of my favorites to make. They’re sweet, sour, tangy, velvety, and boozy. The sour cocktail was first recorded in Jerry Thomas’s 1862 book The Bartender’s Guide. However, the basic recipe was known for more than a century prior to the book being published. No egg white was used—only whiskey, lemon, and confectioners’ sugar. Plaquemines Parish, where I grew up, has a thriving citrus industry and some of the tastiest citrus around. From satsumas to navel oranges to blood oranges, Plaquemines has it all. This cocktail reminds me of what those of us from the area call “down the road,” where all our citrus is grown. Blood oranges are actually native to Sicily, and I pay homage…

. . . Hats off to a guy named Will Baxter in Lafayette. Having inherited his grandmother’s building that houses an antiques shop, at press time, Baxter was trying to get zoning approval to open a small French bistro—very small. The plans call for an intimate six- to eight-table restaurant with a courtyard for cocktails. This is no lark for Baxter—he’s back in Lafayette after cooking in Michelin-starred restaurants in San Francisco, California. We’re keeping an eye on this one. . . . The New Orleans Culinary & Hospitality Institute (NOCHI) opened in January. The long-awaited project is cofounded by Ti Martin, co-owner of the venerable Commander’s Palace. The five-story, 93,000-square-foot facility is destined to turn out great, well-educated chefs. It’s not a stretch to foresee people coming from all…

ROMAN CANDY has been a quintessential New Orleans treat for more than a century. Made using a family recipe that dates back generations, the traditional taffy has been sold from the same mule-drawn wooden cart since 1915. Sam Cortese was just 12 years old when he lost both of his legs below the knee in a streetcar accident. He became a street vendor when his father made him a goat-drawn cart, from which Sam sold fruit and vegetables. He also sold stone coal in the winter. If his mother had made candy and had some left over, sometimes Sam would sell it from the cart. It sold so well that in 1915, when Sam was 25, he decided to focus on selling the candy. Since he had to be able…

WHISKEY-SMOKED CHICKEN SALAD MAKES 4 SERVINGS Smoked chicken, whiskey-soaked grapes, and spiced pecans pump up the flavor in this grown-up chicken salad. 2 cups red and green seedless grapes, halved lengthwise 1 cup plus 2½ tablespoons whiskey, divided 1¼ pounds boneless skinless chicken thighs (5 to 6 thighs) 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste ½ teaspoon ground black pepper, plus more to taste 3 stalks celery, diced small 2 large green onions, diced small 1 cup nonfat plain Greek yogurt 2 tablespoons fat-free milk 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill 2 teaspoons honey ½ head romaine lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces ½ cup Beer Nuts (recipe follows) 1. In a shallow bowl, add grapes and 1 cup whiskey to cover. Cover and refrigerate for 4 hours to marinate. 2.…

FRIED CATFISH PO’ BOYS MAKES 6 SERVINGS Rémoulade made with sweet chili sauce (a condiment often served with Thai dishes) gives these po’ boys a delightfully spicy kick. Vegetable oil, for frying 1½ pounds catfish fillets, cut on the bias into 1½-inch strips 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1½ cups all-purpose flour ½ cup yellow cornmeal 2 tablespoons Cajun seasoning* 2 large eggs 1 tablespoon water Sweet Chili Rémoulade (recipe follows) 6 (6-inch) loaves French bread, halved lengthwise and toasted 1 head Bibb lettuce, cored and shredded (about 6 ounces) 3 large beefsteak tomatoes, cored and cut crosswise into ¼-inch-thick slices (about 2 pounds) 1 medium shallot, cut lengthwise into ⅛-inch-thick slices 1. Fill a large Dutch oven halfway full with oil, and heat over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer…

EGGS SARDOU is a popular brunch offering throughout New Orleans. First served at Antoine’s Restaurant, the dish usually consists of creamed spinach, artichoke bottoms, and poached eggs draped in silky hollandaise sauce. To make serving brunch at home a little easier, try incorporating the classic eggs Sardou ingredients into egg muffin cups. It’s great for feeding a crowd. EGGS SARDOU MUFFIN CUPS MAKES 6 SERVINGS This recipe is an easier version of the New Orleans classic eggs Sardou. The egg muffin cups will rise and fall like a soufflé. 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour ⅓ cup plus ¼ cup whole milk, room temperature and divided 2 cups lightly packed fresh baby spinach, chopped 1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided ¼ teaspoon garlic powder ¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan…

AMONG THE MOST BELOVED producers of Louisiana-made goods is the Walker family of Ville Platte and their Slap Ya Mama brand. The Walkers started Slap Ya Mama in 2001, building their empire on Cajun seasonings, sauces, and mixes. Their debut cookbook, Growing Up Cajun (83 Press, 2018), is a collection of family recipes and stories, including how Slap Ya Mama got its start. “WHEN WE FIRST STARTED, WE NEVER CONSIDERED SOMETHING LIKE THIS WOULD BE A POSSIBILITY. WE WERE JUST MAKING A SEASONING TO MAKE OUR FOOD TASTE A LITTLE BETTER.”– JACK WALKER It began when Jen Walker, the matriarch of this family business, became dissatisfied with the seasoning used in their family store’s deli. Jen and her husband, TW, began making their own blend, which was such a hit…

Editor’s Letter: Page 9: West End Performance Woven Shirt in Woven Navy from southernmarsh.com. Spillin’ the Beans: Photos courtesy of the Ponchatoula Strawberry Festival (page 11), Denny Culbert (Molly’s Rise and Shine, page 12), and Chow Main (page 12). Afield & Afloat: Page 27: Portrait by Ron Manville. A New Orleans Picnic: Page 56: Portrait courtesy of Max Cusimano from NolaVid. 11 Places to Brunch Your Way Across Louisiana: Photos courtesy of Reece McDaniel (Café Sydnie Mae, page 69), Carrollton Market (page 69), and Wine Country Bistro (page 70). Local Pantry: Pages 77–78: Photos courtesy of Chelsea Caldwell. Event Spotlight: Page 89: Photos courtesy of Festival International de Louisiane. Fairs, Festivals & Events: Photos courtesy of Top Taco Festival (page 91), Hogs for the Cause (page 91), and Zack Smith…