Innholdsfortegnelse for January/February 2019 i Louisiana Cookin'

IT’S THE MOST WONDERFUL TIME OF THE YEAR! With parades, parties, and king cakes galore, it’s hard not to get excited for Carnival season. The weather is perfect for Louisiana’s famous gumbos and jambalayas, and the chill in the air means that I don’t mind having the oven on all afternoon while we make a king cake or two. We don’t bake king cakes all the time, usually opting to hit up our favorite bakeries instead, but throughout the season, we’ll make a few of our own. This year, we included a classic Braided King Cake recipe (page 45) but also wanted to branch out and give you some inspired baked goods that follow the king cake flavor profile. Between the Mardi Gras Pound Cake (with a cinnamon cream cheese…

Increasingly high-profile restaurateur Edgar Caro recently opened another mouthwatering eatery in Metairie. Edgar owns Baru Bistro and Tapas, a little slice of small plate heaven; Brasa Churrasqueria, a South American steakhouse; and Basin Seafood & Spirits, a modern seafood restaurant. I caught up with Edgar to explore his newest venture, Zócalo, a distinctively conceived Mexican restaurant: You keep surprising us with your new ventures. Tell our readers about Zócalo. To distinguish this from other Mexican restaurants in the area, we traveled to the Oaxaca area of Mexico. Oaxaca feels like you’re really in Mexico, so the food we serve here makes you feel like that. When we came back here, we wanted to make sure we were doing something you don’t see in New Orleans. How does the Oaxacan influence…

Choose: Live oysters should have a fresh, briny smell, and they should feel heavy for their size. Always check the sell-by date on containers of shucked oysters. Store: Both live and shucked oysters can be refrigerated for 3 to 5 days. Live oysters should be placed in a bowl covered with a damp kitchen towel (not airtight), and shucked oysters should be covered and stored in their liquor. Freeze: Place live oysters in their shell in a resealable plastic bag to freeze. Shucked oysters may be frozen in their liquor in an airtight container.…

AS WITH MUCH OF NEW ORLEANS cocktail lore, the way Ojen, an anise-based liqueur, won over New Orleanians and became a Carnival season staple is an unlikely and fascinating story. Ojen (pronounced oh-hen) originated in 1830 in the town of Ojén, Spain, in the Andalusia region. First created by the Morales family, the original recipe for the sweet liqueur was taken to the grave, ending Ojen production in Spain. In the mid-1930s, a distiller named Manuel Fernandez resumed production with a similar formulation to the original. At some point, he began exporting Ojen abroad, and it gained a loyal following in New Orleans, where the absinthe ban had left a void. The liqueur’s namesake cocktail, featuring Ojen and Peychaud’s Bitters swizzled over ice, became the preferred drink of the Krewe…

Simply put, we can’t get enough king cake this time of year. From the classic cinnamon version to those filled with fruit and cream cheese, there are endless ways to enjoy this seasonal sweet. Mix it up this Mardi Gras with our rendition of the traditional king cake and five exciting ways to reinvent this festive treat into even more crowd-pleasing favorites. MINI CUSTARD PIES MAKES 12 Tarte à la bouille is a traditional and well-loved Cajun custard pie. Colored sugar cookie crumbles add Mardi Gras flair to these miniature versions. 2 cups plus ⅓ cup unsalted butter, softened and divided 2¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons sugar, divided 2 large eggs 2 vanilla beans, split lengthwise, seeds scraped and reserved, divided 4 cups all-purpose flour 1¼ teaspoons kosher salt, divided…

CARNIVAL SEASON IS HERE, and that means untold thousands of people will soon line the streets of Louisiana for parade watching. Whether you’re setting up a spot on the neutral ground or hosting a party at home, you’ll want something quick and convenient to serve your guests. These mini po’ boys are the perfect grab-and-go bite for all your Mardi Gras festivities. FRIED SHRIMP MINI PO’ BOYS WITH LEMON RÉMOULADE MAKES 12 Who doesn’t love a fried shrimp po’ boy? Pistolette rolls help keep these po’ boys portable while fresh lemon adds a bright punch of flavor to the rémoulade. Peanut oil, for frying 1½ cups all-purpose flour ¾ cup plain yellow cornmeal 2 tablespoons Creole seasoning ¾ teaspoon baking powder 1 cup whole buttermilk 1½ pounds peeled and deveined…

THE BEGINNING OF A NEW YEAR finds many of us planning for whatever comes next. But when looking forward, it can also be helpful to take a look back and reflect on where we’ve been. For us, that means turning to one of the most influential cookbooks to come from the Bayou State: Chef Paul Prudhomme’s Louisiana Kitchen (William Morrow & Company, Inc., 1984). Born and raised in Opelousas, Chef Paul grew up helping his mother in the kitchen. When he was young, he began his long career as a chef by traveling across the United States, immersing himself in different culinary environments before returning to his native Louisiana. “I THINK COOKING IS A VERY PERSONAL THING. YOU HAVE TO DRAW ON THE PAST, ON WHAT YOU’VE READ, WHAT YOU’VE…

BAL MASQUÉ WEEKEND January 18–19, New Orleans For three years, the Link Stryjewski Foundation has helped usher in Carnival season with a weekend of feasting and revelry known as Bal Masqué. The festivities return for another year to celebrate New Orleans’ Creole Carnival traditions, beginning with a four-course Chefs’ Dinner on Friday, January 18. A formal yet festive masked ball will be held on Saturday, January 19, with renowned chefs and mixologists preparing unique dishes and drinks. Bal Masqué’s revelry would be incomplete without live musical performances and lively masks, headdresses, and costumes. Additionally, a silent auction will be held throughout the evening. Proceeds from the event and silent auction support the Link Stryjewski Foundation, a nonprofit whose goal is to educate and nourish children in New Orleans and see…

IN BATON ROUGE'S MID CITY NEIGHBORHOOD, a striking pink neon sign juxtaposed against a dark exterior welcomes guests to Soji: Modern Asian, the latest venture from Chef Ryan André and proprietor Chase Lyons. The name “Soji” means “gathering of people,” says Ryan. True to name, the restaurant earned its reputation as one of the most popular gathering places in Baton Rouge within months of opening, and reservations are encouraged on any given day. Soji brings both authentic Asian flavors and traditional methods to the Red Stick in a lively, modern setting. “I want people to think of it as an opportunity to really taste parts of the world that they may never visit,” says Ryan, adding that the menu goes beyond the average Americanized take on Asian cuisine. Instead, it…

The 12 days between Christmas and Epiphany can be filled with anticipation for the days of Carnival and the feasting that comes with them. Though the season is known for all manner of indulgent sweets, nothing is so ubiquitous as king cake. Leading up to Mardi Gras, bakeries and restaurants across the state collectively produce thousands of this seasonal favorite in a variety of flavors with fillings and toppings galore. While it may be true that there’s nothing like the real thing, this time-honored pastry is so beloved that many have crafted other ways to consume the flavors associated with the original: cinnamon and sugar. When it comes to these happy days of feasting and parading toward the fattest of Tuesdays, there’s no shortage of king cake-inspired goods to try.…

WHAT HAPPENS when two self-proclaimed potato chip guys start making tortillas? It may sound like a punchline in the making, but the answer is a company called Hola Nola. Kevin Holden moved from California to Louisiana when Ron Zappe, founder of Zapp’s Potato Chips, and Rod Olson recruited Kevin to work for Zapp’s, which had purchased the potato chip manufacturer Kevin previously worked for. Once in the Bayou State, Kevin and his wife found themselves in a place full of people committed to the enjoyment of good food. However, the transplants realized something was missing: the freshly made tortillas of their sunny days in California. “There were probably seven tortilla manufacturers in the city we lived in alone, so you could always get great, fresh tortillas,” Kevin says. Kevin and…

A COLORFUL FAÇADE surrounded by a white picket fence welcomes diners to Mosquito Supper Club in New Orleans, where 2015 Chef to Watch Melissa Martin has created an intimate dining experience to tell the stories of the fishermen and farmers who are the backbone of south Louisiana cuisine. Melissa celebrates the bounty of Louisiana seafood and ingredients with dishes like Shrimp Okra Gumbo, Crawfish Boulettes, and this Oyster Spaghetti, which is based on a version she ate growing up on the bayou in Terrebonne Parish. Melissa recreated this childhood favorite with fresh spaghetti, and we caught up with her to talk about cooking with oysters and how you can successfully make your own pasta at home. Q We love oysters this time of year. What are some of your ways…

. . . that Spoonbill Watering Hole & Restaurant recently opened in an old filling station in Lafayette. This gem capitalized on the exterior gas station façade, even keeping the old trademark Conoco sign. Look for a seafood-heavy menu from 2014 Chef to Watch Chef Jeremy Conner and enjoy watching your meal prepared in the open kitchen. . . . that just in time for Carnival season, Haydel’s Bakery has opened a café and coffee shop, Haydel’s Bake Shop, on Magazine Street. This new outpost of the beloved bakery sells petits fours, cakes, croissants, and more, plus French Market Coffee. . . . that the place to be on January 26 is Opelousas for the Annual Gumbo Cook-Off. If you’ve never attended, this is a great chance to see St.…

I MUST ADMIT THAT I HAVE NEVER FISHED the Midnight Lump. Oh, but I’ve heard stories about it. In fact, I think the Midnight Lump may have been the birthplace of the phrase, “You should’ve seen the one that got away!” “BETWEEN DECEMBER AND MAY, THE MIDNIGHT LUMP BECOMES ONE OF THE MOST SOUGHT-AFTER FISHERIES . . . IN THE WORLD.” To the uninitiated, this fishing site might look like nothing but open water. However, between December and May, the Midnight Lump becomes one of the most sought-after fisheries not only in the Gulf of Mexico but in the world. Officially known as the Sackett Bank, this favorite big-fish hot spot is located a little over 20 miles from the Southwest Pass of the Mississippi River. This ancient salt dome…

APPLE AND ROOT BEER GLAZED HAM MAKES 20 SERVINGS One taste of this dish and you’ll wonder why you haven’t been glazing your hams with root beer all along. 1 (12-ounce) can root beer 1 cup apple juice 2 tablespoons Zatarain’s Root Beer Concentrate 2 tablespoons apple jelly 1½ tablespoons steak sauce 1 dried bay leaf 6 whole cloves 1 cinnamon stick Peel and juice of ½ orange Peel of ½ lemon 1 (8- to 10-pound) cured smoked ham ¾ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar ½ teaspoon dry mustard ½ cup water 1. Preheat oven to 350°. 2. In a medium saucepan, bring root beer, apple juice, root beer concentrate, apple jelly, steak sauce, bay leaf, cloves, cinnamon stick, orange peel and juice, and lemon peel to a boil…

UP TOWN PARADE PASTRIES AND SNACKS Gracious Bakery + Café 2854 St. Charles Ave. OYSTERS WITH A VIEW Superior Seafood and Oyster Bar 4338 St. Charles Ave. CRAVE-WORTHY BARBECUE SHRIMP Pascal’s Manale 1838 Napoleon Ave. MID-CITY FRIED SEAFOOD HEAVEN Clesi’s Restaurant & Catering 4323 Bienville St. SATIATING SANDWICHES Piece of Meat 3301 Bienville St. KREWE OF ’CUE Blue Oak BBQ 900 N. Carrollton Ave. FRENCH QUARTER 24-HOUR EATS Verti Marte 1201 Royal St. CLASSIC CUBAN Manolito 508 Dumaine St. SATISFYING PO’ BOYS Killer PoBoys 219 Dauphine St. CBD/WAREHOUSE DISTRICT SWANKY WINE BAR Copper Vine 1009 Poydras St. FOOD HALL FOR ALL Pythian Market 234 Loyola Ave. CHEESE, PLEASE St. James Cheese Company 641 Tchoupitoulas St. GARDEN DISTRICT SASSY SAUSAGES Dat Dog 3336 Magazine St. OLD-SCHOOL COMFORT Joey K’s 3001 Magazine…

THE REAL FESTIVE TIME OF YEAR has begun in New Orleans. Pity the poor souls suffering the post-holiday doldrums. While they are sadly taking down their holiday decorations and twinkly lights, we are putting up Mardi Gras decorations, eating king cake for breakfast, and going to sleep on a bed of glitter and false eyelashes. This decadent season is a time to indulge in good food, good friends, and good drink. So what better way to get into the spirit of Mardi Gras than with a French 75 variation? This New Orleans classic is usually made with cognac or gin, but I offer a spirit closer to our Creole roots: rhum agricole, a cane juice-based rum with an h. Industrial rum is traditionally made from molasses, a byproduct of sugar…

THOUGH THE GLOBAL ROOTS OF THE FÊTE can be traced to ancient times, Carnival celebrations are most commonly associated with the Crescent City. Each year, people from around the world arrive to celebrate the New Orleans way—a manner largely influenced by Rex, one of the city’s oldest continuously running organizations. The Rex parade and ball are held annually on Fat Tuesday to mark the end of the revelry and bid adieu to another jovial Carnival season.…