Innholdsfortegnelse for November/December 2018 i Louisiana Cookin'

IN LOUISIANA, we take our celebrations seriously. From bonfires down the Mississippi River to upwards of 300,000 twinkling lights decorating downtown Natchitoches, we know how to pass a good time during the holiday season. As much as we’ll be out experiencing the best of the Bayou State, my family and I will spend quite a bit of time at home cooking and enjoying each other’s company. Some of the dishes we’ll be making will certainly include cane syrup. Throughout the fall, as sugarcane production reaches fever pitch, the sights and toasty aroma of sugar and cane syrup production are an indelible part of life in southern Louisiana. This year, I’m excited to try some of the bite-size and irresistible Pecan Tassies (page 71) that feature the state’s signature syrup. They…

. . . that one of our favorite fine-dining spots in New Orleans, Café Adelaide, has closed. But fear not. The Commander’s Palace team and Darryl Reginelli (of Reginelli’s) have a new concept ready to go. Look for the seductively named Picnic Provisions & Whiskey in Uptown New Orleans. It is described as fast fine dining, with delivery and takeout options. Yum! . . . that the former Square Root space in New Orleans is now Gris-Gris, where the chicken and dumplings is just like your mama made, or your grandmama, or somebody. This one is the brainchild of Chef Eric Cook. . . . that 2004 Chef to Watch Yvette Bonanno-Tharp, of Cane Land Distilling Company, has created two food products featuring their rums: Praline Rum Cakes and Spiced…

PICKLED CUCUMBERS MAKES 1 QUART 1¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons water 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 2½ cups apple cider vinegar 1½ tablespoons fresh minced ginger 2 large cloves garlic, crushed 1½ tablespoons mustard seeds Pinch crushed red pepper ¾ pound sliced Persian cucumbers ¾ cup thinly sliced yellow onions 1. In a small bowl, whisk together 1¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons water and turmeric until dissolved; strain through a fine-mesh sieve. 2. In a medium saucepan, bring turmeric water, vinegar, ginger, garlic, mustard seeds, and red pepper to a boil over medium-high heat. 3. In a large bowl, combine cucumber and onion. Pour pickling liquid over cucumber and onion, and let cool to room temperature. RED WINE-PICKLED PEARL ONIONS MAKES 1 QUART ½ cinnamon stick 1 teaspoon…

NEW ORLEANS IS KNOWN the world over for shrimp po’ boys, chargrilled oysters, shrimp and okra gumbo, and boiled crawfish. But even in this seafood-obsessed town, steak houses are still an integral part of its culinary history and have placed New Orleans among the ranks of America’s great steak house cities. The variety of steak houses in New Orleans today is a testament to how the city remains dedicated to tradition while embracing new concepts. The Big Easy’s steak house roots trace back decades, with two dating back to the 1930s: Charlie’s Steakhouse, which opened on Dryades Street in 1932, and Crescent City Steak House, which opened on Broad Street in 1934. Both establishments became known for serving their steaks sizzling in butter, which is the signature style for classic…

CAFÉ AU LAIT SANDWICH COOKIES MAKES ABOUT 16 ½ cup unsalted butter, softened ¾ cup firmly packed light brown sugar ¼ cup granulated sugar 1 large egg, room temperature ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 1½ cups all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons dark-roast instant coffee granules 1 teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup white chocolate melting wafers 1 teaspoon coconut oil Coffee Buttercream (recipe follows) 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat butter and sugars at medium speed until fluffy, about 5 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add egg, beating well. Beat in vanilla; scrape sides of bowl. 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, coffee granules, baking soda, and salt. Add flour mixture to butter mixture all at once,…

MIKE GUIDRY ALWAYS DREAMED of owning an organic farm, a dream that started becoming a reality in 2014. “It all fell into place,” says Connie Guidry, Mike’s wife and their farm’s co-owner. “I was having a Bible study at my house and someone mentioned that friends of hers were getting rid of a farm. I took my husband to see it, and he said, ‘I want it.’ One thing just led to another.” The farm in question was a 9-acre pecan orchard in Scott, which launched what has become Guidry Organic Farms. The Guidrys went straight to work with their new farm and began producing their own USDA Certified Organic pecan-based products, starting with their cold-pressed pecan oil. “Once we learned more about pecan oil and its high smoke point,…

AFTER THANKSGIVING, we usually begin our Rèveillon season here in New Orleans. Orignally, Rèveillon dinners were lavish celebrations held at home after midnight on Christmas Eve. Today, the tradition is carried on at restaurants throughout the city during the holiday season. In keeping with the spirit of the festivities, I always serve the Winter Waltz cocktail for Rèveillon celebrations. I’ve been making the Winter Waltz for 11 years now. The cocktail itself is named for my favorite Christmas carol, Frank Sinatra’s “Christmas Waltz.” I like to think of it as a seasonally modified Sazerac, perfect for the holidays and cooling temperatures. Adding the allspice to the bittersweet amaro when mixing with the rye makes for the perfect whiskey cocktail for the cooler weather. During my first four or five years…

FOR MANY PEOPLE IN LOUISIANA, the holidays just aren’t complete without bourbon milk punch. Recipe varieties for this wintry Southern cocktail are endless, but one of our favorites is the frozen version at Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House in the French Quarter. With whole milk, vanilla ice cream, bourbon, and vanilla, this boozy milkshake is utterly indulgent. If you can’t make it to New Orleans this holiday season, whip up a batch at home with Bourbon House’s famous recipe. Find it at louisianacookin.com/bourbon-milk-punch.…

WE OFTEN FIND OURSELVES wanting something a bit lighter to round out our holiday meals. Fluffy angel food cake, ripe strawberries, and cheesecake-flavored pudding layered in a trifle make a dainty yet crave-worthy option that will still satisfy your sweet tooth. These trifles taste just as good as they look, and they’re super easy to assemble, making entertaining a breeze. STRAWBERRY TRIFLES MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS ½ cup heavy whipping cream ½ (8-ounce) package one-third-less fat cream cheese, softened 1 cup 2% reduced-fat milk 1 (3.4-ounce) box cheesecake instant pudding mix 1½ tablespoons orange zest 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice 1 (10-ounce) package prepared angel food cake, cut into ½-inch cubes 1 (16-ounce) package fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced Garnish: strawberry halves 1. In a large bowl, beat cream…

LONGTIME READERS OF LOUISIANA COOKIN’ will likely be familiar with Chef Ryan Trahan. Ryan, who previously owned Dark Roux in Lafayette, was among our 2017 class of Chefs to Watch. At the end of 2017, the chef made a decision to close his Dark Roux chapter as he and his wife prepared to welcome a new member to their family. This spring, he joined the iconic Blue Dog Café in Lafayette and Lake Charles as executive chef, and not long after, Ryan was crowned as the 2018 King of Louisiana Seafood. That earned him a spot in the 2018 Great American Seafood Cook-Off, where his cracklin’ crusted red snapper also earned him the title of King of American Seafood. “I’m passionate about what I do,” Ryan says. “Louisiana seafood is…

There is perhaps no dish considered more emblematic of Louisiana than gumbo. Tell anyone you are from or visiting the state, and the next thing they say typically has something to do with gumbo. They might proclaim their favorite place to eat gumbo or explain why their grandmother’s recipe is better than yours—though you won’t believe them. But gumbo comes in many varieties, as diverse as those who prepared it before us and those of us preparing it today. Each approach to the dish tends toward any combination of what may be considered proper ingredients, though opinions of what deems it a proper gumbo differ from region to region and person to person. Yet it manages to unite the historical and cultural influences of Louisiana: Western Africa, Indigenous America, and…

DOUSED IN A GARLICKY BUTTER SAUCE and covered with cheese, chargrilled oysters are a tasty New Orleans tradition, and making them at home couldn’t be easier. In this version, we blended the classic flavor profile with some additional fresh herbs, and instead of firing the oysters over the grill, we opted for a quick broil in the oven, making this dish a winner for last-minute gatherings or dinner parties. BROILED OYSTERS WITH GARLICKY HERB BUTTER MAKES ABOUT 20 Rock salt 1 cup unsalted butter, softened ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley ¼ cup chopped fresh tarragon ¼ cup chopped fresh chives 2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 teaspoon lemon zest ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon cayenne 2 (8-ounce) containers shucked oysters*, drained 1 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese Lemon wedges,…

“[NEW CAJUN] IS MY OWN TAKE. YES, I’M A CAJUN CHEF, BUT I’M ALSO A MODERN CHEF.”—ISAAC TOUPS BELIEVE IT OR NOT, there are people who have never before experienced the thrill of preparing a Cajun meal. And while Cajun cuisine is particular and filled with nuances, Chef Isaac Toups insists that it is not mysterious, and within his debut cookbook, he says, “It’s explained very much in detail.” Chasing the Gator: Isaac Toups and the New Cajun Cooking (Little, Brown and Company, 2018) is the result of Isaac’s two-year collaboration with photographer Denny Culbert and co-author Jennifer V. Cole, who presents Isaac’s perspective on Cajun fare with his voice and humor. Isaac is the model of the self-prescribed term “new Cajun.” As a chef, he is both Cajun and…

BOUDIN, BOURBON & BEER New Orleans, November 9 Since 2002, Chef Emeril Lagasse and chefs from across the United States have gathered together in New Orleans for Boudin, Bourbon & Beer. The name speaks for itself: Attendees can expect demonstrations and samples of the Cajun staple in addition to hand-crafted bourbon concoctions and a variety of brews from Abita Beer. Emeril himself will headline the festival alongside fellow co-chairs Guy Fieri, Donald Link, and Stephen Stryjewski. Other local chefs like Nina Compton, Chris Montero, John Folse, Isaac Toups, and Cory Bahr will also present their respective takes on boudin. Additionally, the festival will feature cigar tastings, a silent auction, and live musical performances. Boudin, Bourbon & Beer benefits the Emeril Lagasse Foundation. This foundation supports nonprofit organizations that create opportunities…

LOCATED NEAR THE END OF THE MISSISSIPPI FLYWAY, the bird migration route that follows the Mississippi River from Canada to the Gulf of Mexico, north Louisiana is renowned for duck hunting. Chef Cory Bahr, a Monroe native, has long been passionate about hunting, and as a chef, he loves duck meat for its versatility. His pâté makes for easy entertaining, and while this recipe uses duck, Cory says that it can be easily modified to include ingredients like rabbit or dove. “This is a great base recipe that produces consistent results,” Cory says. “Have fun, and make it your own.” COUNTRY DUCK PÂTÉ MAKES 12 SERVINGS Recipe courtesy of Chef Cory Bahr, Parish Restaurant, Monroe 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons diced yellow onion 2 heads garlic 1½ tablespoons ground coriander…

During the holidays, many Italian American families celebrate the Feast of the Seven Fishes, known as La Vigilia in Southern Italy. This traditional seafood feast, which is held before midnight on Christmas Eve, consists of at least seven different types of seafood or seven courses. With the variety of great seafood available to us in the Bayou State, the tradition lends itself well to our festivities. Our decadent menu features shrimp, fish, oysters, crawfish, crab, alligator, and squid, plus a hearty salad to round out the meal. OYSTER PASTA WITH LEMON HERB SAUCE MAKES 8 SERVINGS ½ cup minced fresh parsley 6 tablespoons olive oil, divided 2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 cup French bread crumbs ½ cup plus 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided ½ cup chopped pecans ¼ cup grated…

CHARLEY G’S 3809 Ambassador Caffery Pkwy. Lafayette 337.981.0108 charleygs.com THE CHIMES 3357 Highland Rd. Baton Rouge 225.383.1754 thechimes.com CREOLE CAFE’ & CATERING 2814 Greenwood Rd. Shreveport 318.936.3239 facebook.com/CreoleCafeandCatering GABRIELLE RESTAURANT 2441 Orleans Ave. New Orleans 504.603.2344 facebook.com/GabrielleRestaurant LI’L DIZZY’S CAFE 1500 Esplanade Ave. New Orleans 504.569.8997 lildizzyscafe.net WAYNE JACOB’S SMOKEHOUSE AND RESTAURANT 769A W. 5th St. LaPlace 985.652.9990 wjsmokehouse.com…

AT SEAWORTHY, the oyster-focused restaurant in New Orleans’ Ace Hotel, 2013 Chef to Watch Daniel Causgrove is committed to responsible seafood sourcing and sustainability. In addition to oysters from the Gulf Coast, East Coast, and West Coast, Daniel’s menu features locally sourced seafood that runs the gamut from familiar favorites like blue crab and redfish to less common but equally palatable options like amberjack and tripletail. We recently sat down with Daniel to find out why he thinks building a market for these alternative species is beneficial to the health of Louisiana’s fisheries and how to get the most flavor out of your fish. Q You’ve prepared butter-poached tripletail for us today. Can you tell us a little about this species of fish? Tripletail is a species of fish that’s…