Innholdsfortegnelse for September/October 2018 i Louisiana Cookin'

WHEN WE ANNOUNCE our slate of Chefs to Watch each fall, it’s the culmination of a yearlong process. From deliberating with our Chefs to Watch Advisory Board through the selection process, I am always astounded by the number of incredibly talented chefs we have cooking in the Bayou State. This year’s class of Chefs to Watch highlights the wide range of styles that are making up the Louisiana restaurant scene. At first glance, the Caribbean influences of Danny Alas and Justin Rodriguez seem to have little in common with Dustie Latiolais’s pork-obsessed creations, but the common threads are the cultures that have merged throughout the state. We will be gathering in the famed main dining room of Galatoire’s on August 27 for a meal featuring a dish from each of…

Tacos are big in Baton Rouge right now. We caught up with Therese Schneider, the Majority Whip at Gov’t Taco, a place that proudly declares, “In Tacos We Trust.” Now that I can relate to. This place is the brainchild of food aficionado Jay Ducote, who was the first food vendor to commit to the White Star Market on Government Street. So . . . just what is a Gov’t Taco? I see your title is “Majority Whip.” What does a majority whip do at Gov’t Taco? Just the person that runs the ship . . . captain of the ship, you might say. I have to see that everybody stays in line. Your tacos have names that are riffs on government phrases—Clucks & Balances, The Magna Carrot, etc. Do…

At 9 years old, Christina Balzebre knew she wanted to be a chef. “I was always interested in hospitality. I was always saying, ‘I want to be a chef, I want to run a restaurant,’” Christina reflects, adding, “I used to write up menus for family dinners, down to the detail.” While Christina was growing up in Miami, Florida, her mother made every meal the family ate, but she also started a business when Christina was in middle school. “Watching her do her job so well and starting a business from scratch, that was a huge thing for me to see,” says Christina. But Christina’s grandmother was the baker in the family. Every time Christina’s family visited her grandmother in Texas, they could count on all sorts of baked goods…

As summertime fades into fall, enjoying a meal with a waterfront view becomes the luxury of the season. Something almost inexplicable happens when you sit down to have a meal on the water; the worries of the world seem to drift away with the current, and the air itself feels lighter around you. Perhaps the view is so invigorating that you even set aside technological distractions—though not without first snapping a picture. Dinner with a view is nothing if the meal itself cannot complement its eye-catching surroundings, and many restaurants across Louisiana accomplish this feat with ease. We were tasked with narrowing down which places in Louisiana pair the best views with the best bites. While the days are still long, we invite you to fill them by visiting one…

THE DILEMMA: You don’t feel like cooking, but you’re tired of the same old restaurants. Good news: Restaurants are opening statewide at lightning speed, and eating local can be an adventure. As the guy who lives up to his pledge to eat my way across Louisiana, I’m pretty impressed at some of the most unconventional new dining options. I think you will be, too. TASTY TRUCKIN’ Take New Orleans, for example: A local couple, Sharonda and Ross Baudy, visited Austin, Texas, and noticed how many food trucks seemed to be doing good business there. They came back to New Orleans, bought a vacant lot near Tchoupitoulas Street (if you can’t pronounce that, you’re not from New Orleans), and founded Deja Vieux Food Park, a space for multiple food trucks to…

CHEF NATHAN RICHARD has been alligator hunting since he was a kid in Thibodaux. Now, at Cavan in Uptown New Orleans, he is both passionate and resourceful when cooking with alligator—in fact, he has hosted several dinners featuring nose-to-tail preparation of the swamp-dwelling reptile. While a lot of folks say that alligator tastes like chicken, Nathan says it should taste like the water it comes from. “I think alligator has a very unique and different flavor,” Nathan says. “To me, it tastes like that muddy, swampy water. That’s where they live, that’s where they breed, so to me, that’s what it should taste like.” One of the most popular ways to serve alligator meat is by frying it, and Nathan takes that to new levels with his alligator tacos, bringing…

Adversity can often challenge and inspire us to do things we would not otherwise do, and Sean “Chef Pooch” Rivera says that is what made him the chef he is today. Sean is originally from New Orleans, but in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, he had to make a decision: stay in the city and “figure it out” or move to Baton Rouge. “It was lucky because while we lost our home in Mid-City, my wife at the time was given an opportunity with a great job [in Baton Rouge],” Sean says. “So, we thought we may as well take the blessings as they come.” Starting over in a new city is not always an easy feat for a chef, but Sean says it made him more dedicated to doing…

STEEN’S CANE SYRUP IS LEGENDARY IN SOUTH LOUISIANA, where it has been a favorite among Cajun families for generations. Its sweet flavor profile enhances the taste of all kinds of dishes, and these recipes highlight our favorite ways to incorporate it. CANE SYRUP-GLAZED ROASTED DUCK MAKES ABOUT 4 SERVINGS ½ cup fresh orange juice ¼ cup firmly packed light brown sugar 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided 3 tablespoons Steen’s Cane Syrup 2 tablespoons orange blossom honey 1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided ½ cup diced red onion 2 tablespoons orange zest 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon ½ teaspoon smoked chipotle ⅛ teaspoon smoked paprika ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 (4- to 5-pound) duck ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil ¼ teaspoon ground…

THE LAKEHOUSE 2025 Lakeshore Dr. Mandeville 985.626.3006 lakehousecuisine.com MARINER’S RESTAURANT 5948 Hwy. 1 Bypass Natchitoches 318.357.1220 marinersrestaurant.com PALMETTOS ON THE BAYOU 1901 Bayou Ln. Slidell 985.643.0050 palmettosrestaurant.com RUFFINO’S ON THE RIVER 921 Camellia Blvd. Lafayette 337.706.7333 ruffi noslafayette.com SATTERFIELD’S RESTAURANT 108 E. Main St. New Roads 225.638.5027 satterfields.com TSUNAMI 100 Lafayette St. Baton Rouge 225.346.5100 servingsushi.com WATERFRONT GRILL 5201 Desiard St. Monroe 318.345.0064 waterfrontgrill.com…

THE SATSUMA IS A PERENNIAL FAVORITE in the Bayou State. The prized citrus fruit with an easy-to-peel rind is sought after each fall at farmers’ markets, and with its sweet yet tart flavor, we love incorporating it into both savory and sweet recipes during its all-too-short season. This fall, we’re reimagining a classic Southern dessert, chess pie, with a punch of fresh satsuma flavor. If satsumas aren’t available where you live, tangerines or mandarin oranges make fine substitutes. SATSUMA CHESS PIE MAKES 1 (9-INCH) PIE 1¼ cups all-purpose flour 2 cups plus 1 teaspoon sugar, divided ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup cold unsalted butter, cubed ¼ cup ice water 5 large eggs 2 tablespoons satsuma zest ¼ cup fresh satsuma juice ½ cup unsalted butter, softened 3 tablespoons self-rising…

What makes Louisiana blue crabs special? Louisiana crabs are special to me because of the memories I have growing up near Lake Pontchartrain. I remember catching crabs with my friends with just a piece of chicken and a string. Looking back now, I realize how fortunate I was to have the lake basically in my backyard and to be introduced to such an abundance of seafood at such a young age. I look forward to creating these same memories with my children, who now live in the very same home on the lake. What is your favorite way to prepare Louisiana blue crabs? That’s a hard one to pinpoint. Local crabs have such versatility that so many dishes come to mind. But currently, my favorite dish with Louisiana blue crabs…

TANGY MARINATED LOUISIANA BLUE CRAB CLAWS MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS 2 pounds cooked crab claws ½ cup chopped green onion 2 (0.7-ounce) envelopes Italian dressing mix ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon lemon zest ¼ cup fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper Garnish: lemon zest 1. Place crab claws in a large resealable plastic bag. Add green onion, Italian dressing mix, oil, vinegar, lemon zest and juice, soy sauce, garlic, and red pepper. Seal bag, and refrigerate for 4 hours, turning occasionally. Using a slotted spoon, transfer crab claws to a serving dish, discarding marinade. Garnish with lemon zest, if desired. Serve immediately. For other delicious Louisiana blue crab recipes, visit LouisianaSeafood.com.…

“SHRIMP SHOULD SMELL JUST LIKE THE WATER IT’S CAUGHT IN: FRESH, SALTY, BRINY.”—CHEF JEFFREY HANSELL FROM HIS OPEN KITCHEN at Oxlot 9 inside the Southern Hotel in downtown Covington, 2015 Chef to Watch Jeffrey Hansell showcases his love for fresh, local ingredients. The bounty of Gulf seafood and produce from local farms inspires his menu at the upscale Southern bistro, which constantly evolves based on seasonality. The Mississippi-born chef’s creativity and culinary innovation inspire thoughtful dishes with familiar regional flavors, like his playful, elevated take on a traditional shrimp boil. Q Tell us about this Shrimp Steam Pot. We’ve done a good bit of variations of this dish. We did one two years ago that was somewhat of a bouillabaisse with octopus, shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams, and fish. We did…

BLACKPOT FESTIVAL & COOKOFF Lafayette, October 21–27 For the past 12 years, the end of October has arrived and marked the beginning of Blackpot Festival & Cookoff. Now in its 13th year, the festival continues to celebrate the cultures of southwest Louisiana: Acadian, Native American, and Creole. Prior to the festival itself is Blackpot Camp at Lakeview Park & Beach, which begins Sunday, October 21. The camp consists of a four-day workshop full of classes and performances for campers, each activity revolving around music, dance, or food. Blackpot Camp ends Thursday, October 25, but not without a kickoff party to get into the festival spirit at Lakeview’s Barn. The official festival begins Friday, October 26 in Vermilionville Historic Village with an evening full of music from genres including Cajun, zydeco,…

Ella Brennan was the pride of New Orleans. She really was. We lost her this year at the age of 92, but her highly talented daughter, Ti Martin, will carry on the family tradition at Commander’s Palace. Miss Ella was the grande dame of Creole and Cajun fine dining and once said, “I don’t want a restaurant where a jazz band can’t come marching through.” She was known for working closely with her chefs at Commander’s Palace, which turned out some of the finest culinarians in New Orleans, including big names like Emeril Lagasse. The restaurant remains the destination of choice for New Orleanians celebrating just about anything and a must for tourists who want a true taste of the city. Our condolences to the family, and our thanks to…

IN A QUAINT, RED-ROOFED COTTAGE just steps away from Lake Pontchartrain in Mandeville, Luke and Marci Hidalgo are turning out elevated yet accessible Southern comfort food at Hambone. Immediately, it evokes the sense of visiting family or old friends, a feeling Luke and Marci hope guests experience—from the atmosphere to the food itself—each time they visit. The name Hambone is a nickname for Luke’s style of cooking, says Marci, but the term itself comes from a tradition of Luke’s childhood. “As a kid, it was the hambone in the pot of white beans that always intrigued me, like, ‘What is this thing that we’re not supposed to eat? What is that all about?’” Luke recalls. At the time, Luke’s grandmother explained that nothing should go to waste and that some…

Like many born and raised in Louisiana, Dustie Latiolais was surrounded by a family who likes to cook. He grew up watching his grandparents cook and went hunting and fishing with his grandfather whenever the season was right. “The first time I ever made a roux was at the hunting camp. I was about 12 years old, wondering, ‘What are y’all doing?’ So, they were like, ‘Here, stir this!’” Dustie says. When Dustie was 14 years old, his first job was bussing tables at his great-uncle’s restaurant in Henderson. After graduating high school in 2005, he joined the team at Crawfish Town USA as a line cook for several years, but when he heard about the Louisiana Culinary Institute opening in Baton Rouge, he left to pursue further training. Dustie…

“When you grow up in the South cooking with your family, I guess you don’t always equate it with a career,” says Holly Schreiber, the culinary director behind Benton’s Sainte Terre, a boutique catering venue for weddings and more. Holly grew up in Benton, a small town near Shreveport, where family and food walked hand in hand. But while she attended college at Texas Christian University, Holly cooked as a private chef to earn extra money. Suddenly, “it clicked,” so she changed majors and earned her degree in nutrition to prepare for culinary school. Holly attended the International Culinary Center (formerly French Culinary Institute) in New York. She began her career by developing recipes and menus with the institute following graduation. During that time, Holly met her husband and business…

AS A QUINTESSENTIAL SIDE DISH of Cajun cuisine, dirty rice is almost guaranteed to be on the table at most gatherings in Acadiana. It is typically made with ground pork and chicken livers, which gives the rice its “dirty” appearance. In this version, using frozen, prechopped trinity cuts down on prep time—but not flavor—so you can spend less time in the kitchen and more time making delicious memories at your dinner table. DIRTY RICE MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 2 teaspoons canola or vegetable oil 1 pound ground pork breakfast sausage ½ pound chicken livers, puréed 1 (10-ounce) package frozen vegetable seasoning blend, thawed 1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning 2 cloves garlic, sliced ½ cup low-sodium chicken broth 2 cups long-grain rice, cooked according to package directions ½ cup chopped green…

SOUTHERN UNIVERSITY AND A&M COLLEGE BATON ROUGE Game day at Southern is filled with sounds of the prestigious and highly acclaimed band, the Human Jukebox, and sights of the colorful uniforms and talented dancers. The Human Jukebox has been ranked as one of the top bands in the nation by ESPN, Time, and USA Today. Southern is also known for its friendly fans, the Jaguar Nation, who gather together before games to grill and catch up with friends. The beautiful campus sits right on Scott’s Bluff overlooking the banks of the Mississippi River, near the replica of “the red stick” that gives Baton Rouge its name. Each Thanksgiving, the Jaguars play rival Grambling State University in the Bayou Classic at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome in New Orleans. UNIVERSITY OF LOUISIANA AT…

FRESH: Blue crabs bought fresh should still be alive. Keep the crabs well-iced in an ice chest until you’re ready to cook them. FROZEN: Crabmeat can be frozen for up to two months. Chill the crabmeat; package it in small, moisture-proof, vapor-proof containers and expel any air before sealing. Spread out in the freezer for rapid freezing. Thaw in the refrigerator for a day before using. COOKED: The shelf life of fresh-picked, cooked crabmeat is 10 to 12 days from the packaging date. Once at home, it’s best to use it in one or two days.…

“I DID THIS FOR MY CHILDREN. I WANT IT TO BE THERE FOR THEM, TO KNOW THESE KINDS OF THINGS. IT WAS INVALUABLE FOR ME TO KNOW . . . WHERE WE CAME FROM.”—NANCY TREGRE WILSON IN THE SOUTH, meals are often inextricably linked to heritage and home, a trait that is magnified on the Louisiana table. In Mémère’s Country Creole Cookbook (Louisiana State University Press, 2018), Nancy Tregre Wilson narrates each chapter and recipe with recollections of her family’s traditions at their home on Louisiana’s German Coast, or Côte des Allemandes. “There were so many French-speaking Germans that were here, and not many people readily discuss that side of the region’s heritage,” says Nancy. While in high school, Nancy volunteered at the local library. It was there she discovered…

THROUGHOUT the bishop cocktail’s past, there has always been wine involved. We have served our version of the drink, called the Kentucky Bishop, at Arnaud’s French 75 Bar for about 10 years. In our Kentucky Bishop’s case, I have made a wine cordial syrup to complement the citrus, allspice, and bourbon. This Cabernet Syrup adds more body and flavor to the cocktail than a standard simple syrup made from white sugar and water. Our version is named after Kentucky, the birthplace of bourbon, and I imagine it would be a huge hit if it were ever served at the Bourbon State Fair in Bardstown, Kentucky. There is also a classic bourbon-citrus cocktail called the Kentucky Colonel, and after changing some of those flavors, calling this the Kentucky Bishop just seemed…