Innholdsfortegnelse for May/June 2018 i Louisiana Cookin'

AS MUCH AS I LOVE a classic fried shrimp po’ boy (overstuffed and dressed with shredded lettuce, tomato, pickles, and mayonnaise), I love that we’re living in a time when chefs and po’ boy artists are stretching the concept even further. In researching the New Orleans’ Best Specialty Po’ Boys story (page 61), I fell in love with some flavor combinations that surprised me (particularly the massive Ray Ray—crispy fried chicken topped with grilled ham and Swiss cheese—from Sammy’s Food Service & Deli and the sweet and spicy Bang Bang Shrimp Banh Mi from Banh Mi Boys in Metairie [pages 67 and 66, respectively]). But we cannot live on po’ boys alone, can we? As much as I love the buttery decadence of Liuzza’s by the Track’s BBQ Shrimp PoBoy…

Congratulations to Dong Phuong Bakery in New Orleans, recent recipient of a James Beard Foundation America’s Classics award. The Vietnamese restaurant and bakery received the award in recognition of having made a strong impact on the culinary community. I recognize Dong Phuong for its tasty pastries. Thousands of people are headed to this year’s New Orleans Wine & Food Experience, one of the nation’s premier wine and food annual events. The event features two days of Grand Tastings as well as wine dinners, seminars, parties, and more. Check out nowfe.com for details. You will love the Louisiana Woman blog (louisianawomanblog.com), where a South Louisiana native shares her favorite recipes. I like the Pumpkin Cheesecake with Pecan Streusel, but I have not been brave enough yet to make it. Really…

WHEN CHEF ERIC COOK isn’t working in the kitchen at Tommy’s Cuisine in New Orleans, chances are he’s fishing or hunting. Growing up, Eric would go fishing with his father, who turned their fresh catch into a delectable meal at the end of the trip. One of Eric’s favorites was redfish courtbouillon, a rich and spicy fish stew. Even when Eric makes this dish today, the aroma overwhelms him with memories of time spent on the water with his dad. Redfish courtbouillon is often made with fish fillets, but in this version, Eric uses a whole fish for a more stunning presentation. WHOLE R REDFISH COURTBOUILLON MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS Recipe courtesy of Chef Eric Cook, Tommy’s Cuisine, New Orleans 1 (18- to 20-inch) redfish, cleaned and scales removed…

“I CAN CERTAINLY SAY THAT NEW ORLEANS WAS THE PERFECT PLACE NOT ONLY TO PRESERVE BUT REINVENT RATAFIA.”—CHEF JOHN FOLSE RATAFIA, A FRUIT-INFUSED BRANDY LIQUEUR, has long been popular among Cajun and Creole families in Louisiana, but the history of this sweet beverage dates back even further than the settling of the Bayou State to the Middle Ages in Europe. The word ratafia comes from the Latin phrase rata fiat, which translates to “let it be ratified.” It is commonly believed that the term can be traced back hundreds of years to a toast traditionally given at the end of Catholic marriage ceremonies with a sweet liqueur. The Oxford Companion to Food (Oxford University Press, 1999) defines ratafia as “a cordial or a brandy-based liqueur flavoured with almonds, peach, cherry,…

Like many areas of southeast Louisiana, Lafourche Parish—which is about an hour’s drive southwest from New Orleans—is centered around the Mississippi River. As you go “down the bayou” and explore the area’s rich heritage, you will find not only the kinds of flavors and hospitality Louisiana is best known for, but a variety of experiences that capture the Cajun joie de vivre. With the catfish of Bayou des Allemands, fertile citrus groves, rolling sugarcane fields, and cattle ranches, Lafourche Parish has been feeding Louisiana since its settlement in the 1700s. Tightly knit communities of fishermen still troll the bayous, lakes, and Gulf of Mexico, pulling in a catch that includes crawfish, shrimp, and the myriad of delicacies for which the Bayou State is best known. As you travel up and…

voyelles Parish has long been known as a sportsman’s paradise, with abundant wildlife, scenic waterways, and a prosperous agriculture industry, but one would be remiss to overlook the incredible dining options in this parish in central Louisiana. Avoyelles Parish was named after the Avoyels Indians, but the parish also celebrates its French Creole heritage, which has had a major impact on the food scene there. Food lovers will find both casual and high-end dining with Creole and Cajun flair. EAT LIKE A LOCAL At Broken Wheel Brewery, longtime friends Jonathan Knoll and Chris Pahl produce handcrafted beers that pay homage to the local culture. The brewery is named after the story of Marksville’s founding, and each brew’s name has a story behind it. The Páchafa Pale Ale is named after…

BANH MI BOYS 5001 Airline Dr., Suite B Metairie 504.510.5360 bmbmetairie.com BOUCHERIE 1506 S. Carrollton Ave. New Orleans 504.862.5514 boucherie-nola.com CRABBY JACK’S 428 Jefferson Hwy. New Orleans 504.833.2722 crabbyjacksnola.com LIUZZA’S BY THE TRACK 1518 N. Lopez St. New Orleans 504.218.7888 liuzzasnola.com MAHONY’S PO-BOYS & SEAFOOD 3454 Magazine St. New Orleans 504.899.3374 mahonyspoboys.com SAMMY’S FOOD SERVICE & DELI 3000 Elysian Fields Ave. New Orleans 504.947.0675 sammysfood.com SEERSUCKER RESTAURANT & CATERING 938 Hancock St. Gretna 504.702.8040 seersuckercatering.com…

AS SUMMER SETS IN, we always look forward to an abundance of fresh blue crabs. Each year, we jump at the chance to figure out new ways to feast on luscious crabmeat, with its light flavor and sweetness that make any dish more appealing. These Crispy Crab Cakes come together in no time at all for a simple treat you’ll be craving all summer long. CRISPY CRAB CAKES MAKES 4 SERVINGS ⅓ cup mayonnaise 1 large egg ¼ cup chopped green onion 2 teaspoons Creole mustard 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce ½ teaspoon Creole seasoning ½ teaspoon hot sauce 1 pound jumbo lump crabmeat, drained and picked free of shell ½ cup saltine cracker crumbs Canola or vegetable oil, for frying Mixed greens, tartar sauce, and lemon wedges, to serve 1.…

WHEN BOB IACOVONE was named a Chef to Watch in 2005, he was running the kitchen at one of the hottest restaurants in New Orleans, Cuvée (which has since closed). Since then, his priorities have changed a bit. Bob left Cuvée to be a stay-at-home dad, but the itch to get back in the kitchen was always there. He knew that when he got back into the game, he wanted it to fit into his new lifestyle. Now at Iacovone Kitchen, the grab-and-go business he and his wife, Joanna, recently opened on Freret Street in New Orleans, the focus is providing busy families with quick, satisfying meals that don’t break the bank. Each day, Bob offers different meat, seafood, and vegetarian entrées with sides. The business is still evolving, and…

CREOLE TOMATO FESTIVAL New Orleans, June 9–10 A highlight of Louisiana summers, Creole tomatoes are those that are grown in the Bayou State’s rich alluvial soil, which gives them a delightfully sweet flavor. Each year during the second weekend in June, the French Market Creole Tomato Festival celebrates the seasonal crop with two days full of festivities. Throughout the event, visitors will have the opportunity to purchase ripe Creole tomatoes from local growers and try dishes featuring the sweet crop. Last year, vendors included The Original Pierre Maspero’s, which took home the award for the most traditional dish with their Fried Green Tomatoes with Shrimp Rémoulade, and Crêpes à la Cart, which won the award for most creative dish with their caprese crêpe, filled with fresh mozzarella, Creole tomatoes, and…

MANY OF YOU MAY HAVE HEARD ME SAY in past columns that if you’re looking for great road trip ideas, look no further than Louisiana. This is the one state where you can get a heavy dose of fascinating history with a side of perfectly prepared Gulf seafood and spicy barbecued shrimp. Yes, the economy is looking up, but why spend more than you have to for a great getaway? Stay in-state and celebrate spring. That brings me to these four words: Great Balls of Fire! If those words have some meaning for you, get thee to the tiny town of Ferriday, where you can while away an afternoon at the Delta Music Museum. Many tales of Louisiana musicians like Jerry Lee Lewis, Fats Domino, and Irma Thomas make for…

YOU’RE IN FOR A HAYRIDE SHREVEPORT AND CENTRAL As the original country and western music legends were getting their start, Shreveport’s beautiful Municipal Auditorium was a must-play venue. Known for the Louisiana Hayride radio program, the building was frequented by the likes of Johnny Cash, Elvis Presley and Johnny Horton. For an intimate listening environment with contemporary singer-songwriters, music aficionados catch a show at the House Concert Series. And if Shreveport is known for its country and western music, Ferriday, Louisiana, on the Mississippi River is notable for its Delta blues, rockabilly and gospel heritage. A trip to its Delta Music Museum and Arcade Theater showcases the town’s musical heritage (which includes locals Jerry Lee Lewis, Mickey Gilley and Jimmy Swaggart—who also all happen to be cousins). DANCING IN THE…

What makes Louisiana shrimp different? The flavor. Period. And there’s a sense of pride because you know where they’re from, and you’re supporting local fishermen. We only serve whole, head-on Louisiana shrimp. What do you think are some of the best ways to serve Louisiana shrimp? New Orleans-style barbecue shrimp is my thing, but I also I like to make a smoked shrimp dip, where we smoke them and then blend them with cream cheese, lemon juice and hot sauce. If you could only eat one Louisiana shrimp dish for the rest of your life, what would it be? That would be barbecue shrimp. It’s just the perfect dish. It highlights the taste of the shrimp, and it’s a signature Louisiana dish that you probably couldn’t find anywhere else in…

SINCE SHRIMP ARE SO EASY TO COOK, they work perfectly in all kinds of dishes, especially during the warm months of spring and summer. Here, we pickled tender Louisiana shrimp to highlight their sweet flavor and served them with a blend of red quinoa and couscous for some additional protein and fiber. With minimal cooking time and a punch of citrus flavor, this grain salad is a keeper you’ll come back to again and again. oil, peppercorns, mustard seeds, sugar, red pepper, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt. In a large resealable plastic bag, combine shrimp, fennel, shallot, garlic, lemon slices, dill, and vinegar mixture. Seal bag, and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, turning occasionally. 4. Serve shrimp over a scoop of Red Quinoa and Couscous Salad. Garnish with fennel…

AT THE RECENTLY OPENED PALOMA CAFE in New Orleans’ Bywater neighborhood, chefs Danny Alas and Justin Rodriguez are turning out creative, Latin American-inspired fare in a comfortable, laid-back setting. The café is a venture from Revelator Coffee Company, which started in New Orleans and quickly grew throughout the South and New England. Danny, who is originally from Venezuela, grew up in Miami, while Justin, whose family is from the Dominican Republic, grew up in New Jersey. The two met in culinary school in Miami and worked with Nina Compton there for several years before moving to North Carolina. When Nina decided to open Compère Lapin in New Orleans, she contacted Danny to help with the pastry program, and Danny convinced Nina to hire Justin, too. “Justin and I are a…

Gone are the days when pawn shops and fast food chains dominated Government Street, Mid-City Baton Rouge’s main drag. They’re still there, providing some local color, but a culinary revolution is well under way, and now Government Street and Jefferson Highway are filled with hidden and not-so-hidden gems. “Every block on the street has some sort of new project,” Tiger Deaux-nuts founder Jeff Herman says, adding that collaborations between neighboring restaurants are becoming common. Curbside Burger celebrated its first anniversary last fall by working with local restaurants to create unique sandwiches. The Tiger D crispy chicken sandwich used glazed doughnut buns from Tiger Deaux-nuts, and Gov’t Taco founder Jay Ducote created the Gov’t Burger with flavors like coffee- and ancho chili-rubbed beef, Chihuahua cheese, poblano pico, and tortilla strips. Food…

Crawfish boils are one of the best parts of springtime in Louisiana. There is nothing better than afternoons spent with family and friends gathered around newspaper-draped tables piled with steaming mudbugs and spicy fixin’s. This year, we took an updated approach to the classic boil with some fun additions, including whole artichokes and sweet potatoes, and a few exciting sides. CITRUS SPICE BOILED CRAWFISH MAKES ABOUT 4 SERVINGS 4 gallons water ¼ cup kosher salt 1 tablespoon pink peppercorns 1 tablespoon dried juniper berries 1 tablespoon coriander seeds 1 tablespoon fennel seeds 1 tablespoon dried dill 1 teaspoon mustard seeds 2 tablespoons cayenne pepper 2 tablespoons crushed red pepper 2 tablespoons paprika 2 tablespoons dried marjoram 1½ tablespoons ground nutmeg 1 tablespoon anise 1 tablespoon chili powder 1 tablespoon onion…

BEFORE THERE WERE BLENDERS, crazy flavors, or bright colors, the traditional daiquiri was a simple shaken drink of rum (white or aged), freshly squeezed lime juice, and some sugar syrup to smooth out the edges. Both the daiquiri and the frozen daiquiri were invented in Cuba. The classic hand-shaken version is from a mining town called Daiquirí, and the frozen version began at El Floridita in Havana. Daiquiris also have a long history in New Orleans. I’d go so far as to say that no other American city can claim that the daiquiri means more to their town than it does to New Orleans. I’ve been to both spots and have made both iterations in their respective birthplaces. To get a firsthand experience, I went with an American group of…

MAY April 27–May 6 New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival New Orleans | 504.410.4100 nojazzfest.com 3–13 Louisiana Pirate Festival Lake Charles | 337.436.5508 louisianapiratefestival.com 4–5 MayFest Leesville | 800.349.6287 vernonparish.org/mayfest 4–6 Breaux Bridge Crawfish Festival Breaux Bridge | 337.332.6655 bbcrawfest.com 10–12 Frog Festival Rayne | 337.334.2332 raynefrogfestival.com 10–13 Cochon de Lait Festival Mansura cochondelaitfestival.com 11–13 El Festival Español de Nueva Iberia New Iberia newiberiaspanishfestival.com 17–19 Starks Mayhaw Festival Starks mayhawfest.com 18–20 Mid-City Bayou Boogaloo New Orleans thebayouboogaloo.com 24–27 Mudbug Madness Shreveport | 318.226.5641 mudbugmadness.com 23–27 New Orleans Wine & Food Experience New Orleans | 504.655.5158 nowfe.com 25–27 New Orleans Greek Festival New Orleans | 504.282.0259 greekfestnola.com 26 Slidell Jazz and Blues Festival Slidell slidelljazzandblues.com JUNE 1–3 Walker Percy Weekend St. Francisville | 225.635.4224 walkerpercyweekend.org 1–3 Bon Mangé Festival Gheens gheensbonmange.weebly.com…

While we are on the subject of delicious discoveries, we caught up with Joy Wilson, a.k.a. Joy the Baker, who just happens to be the baking doyenne of the Bywater neighborhood of New Orleans. Tell us a little bit about your business. Joy the Baker is a website and blog and recipe resource that I’ve had for the last 10 years. Out of it, I have built a business and authored three cookbooks: Joy the Baker Cookbook, Homemade Decadence, and Over Easy. Here in New Orleans, I have a studio space called The Bakehouse, where I host cooking classes and workshops. What is the format of your cooking classes? I usually hold weekend classes in the afternoon, intimate gatherings of up to a dozen people. It’s very hands-on and generally…

SHRIMP RÉMOULADE MAKES 6 CUPS 1 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons ketchup 2 tablespoons Creole mustard 1 tablespoon prepared horseradish 1 tablespoon sweet pickle relish 1 tablespoon minced shallot 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice ½ teaspoon ground paprika ½ teaspoon garlic salt ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 2 pounds peeled and deveined cookedmedium shrimp, chilled (tails removed) Garnish: chopped fresh parsley 1. In a large bowl, combine mayonnaise and next 10 ingredients. Whisk until combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. 2. Add shrimp to mayonnaise mixture, and stir to combine. Cover and refrigerate until serving. Garnish with chopped parsley, if desired. Mixture can be made up to 4 hours ahead. DIY RÉMOULADE BAR Shrimp rémoulade is traditionally served over lettuce, but that’s just…

Visitors to St. Landry Parish will find stunning landscapes, world-famous cuisine, lively music, and enthralling history throughout its 12 cities and towns. Bordered on the east by the Atchafalaya River, the primarily rural and agricultural parish in south central Louisiana is a cultural crossroads where residents celebrate the enduring Cajun and Creole traditions that shaped their communities. The Acadiana region’s rich history is evident all across the parish in its language (Cajun French is still spoken here), Cajun and zydeco music, and down-home restaurants and shops where you can find some of the best boudin, gumbo, and seafood anywhere in the state. Majestic oaks, scenic waterways, and Cajun prairie paint a picturesque landscape perfect for outdoor adventures. DINE & DRINK St. Landry Parish is a hotbed of culinary talent, with…

For nearly a century now, the po’ boy has been a delicious symbol of New Orleans’ cuisine. It is widely thought that the term “po’ boy” was coined by brothers Bennie and Clovis Martin, who fed striking streetcar drivers at their restaurant in New Orleans in 1929. Whenever they saw one of the striking men come in, they’d say, “Here comes another poor boy.” Traditionally, the iconic sandwich is made with flaky, airy French bread made at local bakeries (most notably Leidenheimer and John Gendusa), although many restaurants opt for Vietnamese-style baguettes. Most po’ boys are served “dressed”—that is, with mayonnaise, lettuce, tomatoes, and pickles. Roast beef and fried seafood are two of the most classic fillings (and with good reason), but these days, there is a whole new wave…

FOOD OFTEN TELLS A STORY about who we are and where we come from. For Alon Shaya, food has been a powerful force throughout his life, shaping some of his earliest memories and inspiring his path to culinary stardom. In his debut cookbook, Shaya: An Odyssey of Food, My Journey Back to Israel (Alfred A. Knopf, 2018), Alon takes readers through his culinary journey from his childhood in Israel and in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, to his apprenticeship in Italy to his work in New Orleans and all the moments in between. More than a cookbook, it is a collection of short stories about his life, with recipes inspired by those stories. “I’ve always wanted to compile my life story with food in one central place,” he says. “For me, food has…