Innholdsfortegnelse for July - August 2017 i Louisiana Cookin'

I GREW UP LOVING seafood. Shellfish, finfish, frog legs, the occasional shark—I would eat just about any sea creature. How lucky are we that the Gulf and inland waters of Louisiana have such an incredible bounty? This time of year, when light, fresh, bright flavors are key, and farmers’ markets are brimming with perfect produce, I eat as much of our local seafood as I can find. In this issue, we cover a terrific variety of techniques and flavors, from a decadent panko-crusted crab cake (page 19) and gorgeous shrimp-and-watermelon salad (page 18) to a family-friendly whole grilled fish (page 44) from Chef Michael Nelson at GW Fins in New Orleans. One of the things I appreciate most about Chef Michael’s cooking is that he not only focuses on the…

LIGHT & FRESH WATERMELON-SHRIMP SALAD MAKES 4 SERVINGS 4 (¾-inch-thick) watermelon wedges 4 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon lime zest 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, divided ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, divided 12 peeled and deveined large fresh shrimp, cooked, whole or coarsely chopped 1 cup diced seedless watermelon ¾ cup grape tomatoes, quartered ½ cup coarsely chopped avocado 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro 1 tablespoon chopped seeded jalapeño pepper 1/8 teaspoon ground cumin ¼ cup crumbled queso fresco Garnish: fresh cilantro sprigs, extra-virgin olive oil 1. In a glass baking dish, place watermelon wedges. In a small bowl, combine sugar, zest, ⅓ cup lime juice, and ⅛ teaspoon salt; pour over watermelon wedges. Refrigerate for 1 hour, turning once. 2. In a medium bowl, combine cooked shrimp, diced…

THERE WAS A TIME when soda fountains could be found in nearly every drugstore in America, and in the soda fountains of New Orleans, there was arguably no flavor more popular than nectar. In Greek mythology, nectar (from the Greek word nektar) was the drink of the gods, and anyone who drank it was said to become immortal. While the soda New Orleanians came to know and love might not have had life-giving properties, the heavenly drink that graced soda fountain counters throughout New Orleans was surely a treat fit for the gods. Nectar syrup, a bright pink concoction that tastes of vanilla and almonds, was an instant hit after the I.L. Lyons and Co. pharmaceutical supply business introduced the flavor in the late 19th century. The company sold the…

NOTHING SAYS “SUMMER” quite like pristine Louisiana seafood. As the weather heats up, we turn to light, refreshing dishes that highlight the natural flavors of fresh catches from the Gulf of Mexico. This summer, celebrate the taste of fresh seafood with these four incredible recipes from Executive Chef Michael Nelson of GW Fins. At the French Quarter restaurant known for its wide array of topnotch seafood options, Michael uses seasonal ingredients to enhance the flavors and textures of the catches of the day. He has dedicated himself to a sustainable nose-to-tail approach, and encourages diners to try new and different cuts of fish—including heads, collars, ribs, and fins. His Fish Heads in Curry Broth (page 42) may look intimidating, but it’s actually a staff favorite at GW Fins, and Michael…

Louisiana is a jackpot for food lovers, so it’s no surprise that some remarkable dining can be found at casinos. Throughout the Bayou State, they feature restaurants led by some of the state's best chefs, who are using their culinary chops to take casino dining to new levels. Forget the stale all-you-can-eat buffets of the past—casinos are upping the ante to bring fresh, exciting dining options to gamblers and foodies alike. Whether you’re craving an extraordinary steak dinner, authentic international cuisine, or a variety of outstanding items from a buffet, Louisiana’s casinos have something to offer every budget and appetite. Not only that, but the quality of the food being served is impeccable, with discerning chefs focusing on both locally sourced ingredients and top-quality products from around the world. Whether…

There aren’t many vegetables that say ‘summer’ quite like okra. These pods find their way into all sorts of dishes throughout the season—from cornbread to gumbo and everything in between. This year, we can’t get enough of simply skillet roasting the okra, and serving it with a spicy and savory sauce. SKILLET-ROASTED OKRA WITH SPICY MISO SAUCE MAKES 4 SERVINGS 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1 pound small or medium fresh okra pods, halved lengthwise ¼ teaspoon salt, divided 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, divided Spicy Miso Sauce (recipe follows) 1. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over high heat. Add half of okra, cut side down, and cook for 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until browned on the bottom, 2 to 3…

 FROM TEXAS BRISKET and dry-rubbed Memphis ribs to Alabama chicken with white sauce, tender pork butt and everything in-between, Southern Barbecue & Grilling (83 Press, 2017) by Louisiana Cookin’ editor and barbecue enthusiast Daniel Schumacher has a little something for everyone. Barbecue pros will appreciate new takes on classic preparations, and newcomers will benefit from step-by-step guidance on each of the South’s major barbecue styles. IN RELENTLESS PURSUIT OF THE TENDEREST PORK, CHICKEN, AND BEEF, GENERATIONS OF HARDWORKING SOUTHERNERS HAVE STEWARDED MEAT TO ITS PERFECT STATE.—DANIEL SCHUMACHER “Open-fire wood grilling has been around for centuries, and it has been an alive and evolving art in the South as long as people have been here,” says Daniel. “There is such a breadth and depth to Southern barbecue and grilling. It’s a…

THROUGHOUT HIS CAREER, 2011 Chef to Watch Justin Ferguson has had a diverse experience: Stroube’s Chophouse in Baton Rouge, the upscale-casual Superior Seafood and Oyster Bar in Uptown New Orleans, and revamping the menu at The Roosevelt Hotel’s classy Fountain Lounge. From there, he moved to Chicago to run the restaurant concepts for a Chicago entertainment group. Now back in his home state with a myriad of experiences under his belt, Justin is opening BRQ Seafood & Barbecue in Baton Rouge. The menu will touch on all of the expected barbecue styles and house-made, locally sourced fixin’s—baby back ribs, brisket, pulled pork—and branch out in a number of other directions. “You’ll see rabbit, Louisiana frog legs, and fried chicken,” says Justin, “but we also have smoked barbecue octopus, gourmet salads,…

WELL, HERE WE are again, making it through another hot, sticky Louisiana summer. There’s really only one thing that can cheer us up—FOOD! We love to eat, talk about eating, reminisce about eating, dream, and even argue about it. Fortunately for us, there’s plenty of food to go around, and more often than not, we don’t have to go very far to find our heart’s desire, right? Sometimes it’s as close as our own backyard (think crawfish boils), or right in the neighborhood (think your favorite restaurant nearby). That made me start digging around to find the best local dining spots that only recently made their debut. NOLA NEWBIES I didn’t have to look very far. It seems as though the new restaurants are everywhere statewide. Consider New Orleans: the…

collectors, like artists and fishermen, usually start their tales with a recent success. Ask Chef John Folse what he’s been collecting lately and first you’re likely to hear a guilty guffaw, followed by a disclaimer about being too busy in his internationally renowned kitchens at R’evolution (New Orleans) and Seafood R’evolution (Jackson, Mississippi), or with some gigantic new book he’s planning. Knowing he can’t fib to me for very long, he launches into a confessional narrative that would dizzy any old padre, leaving even this jaded antiques dealer with vertigo. The great English collector and art historian Sir Kenneth Clark once claimed there were only two types of collectors: those looking to complete a series and those longing to possess things that bewitch them. Having spent most of my life…

DESTINATION DOWNTOWN Second & Fourth Saturdays of June–August • Natchitoches NATCHITOCHES, THE OLDEST settlement in the Louisiana Purchase, boasts a historic downtown with charming shops and incredible restaurants. This summer, the city is hosting Destination Downtown, a series of events featuring great music and a variety of fun activities for visitors of all ages. The festivities will take place on the second and fourth Saturdays in June, July, and August. Bring your lawn chairs to Front Street for a day of fun. Kids will love the free inflatables, face painting, caricature drawings, and lawn games. Other activities scheduled include a watermelon eating contest and a margarita tasting event. Music performances from bands like The LaCour Trio, Katalyst, and The Hardrick Rivers Revue will last throughout the afternoon, and on July…

CORN BREAD  LEGEND HAS IT THAT A CERTAIN MADAME LANGLOIS HAD TO USE ALL HER CUNNING TO TEACH THESE HIGH-SPIRITED EUROPEANS “CREOLE” CULINARY SURVIVAL SKILLS WITH THE GREATEST CHALLENGE GETTING THEM TO ACCEPT CORN BREAD INSTEAD OF THEIR “FRENCH” WHEAT BREAD. BREADMAKERS HAD TO NOT ONLY BE CONCERNED WITH RECIPES AND TEMPERATURES, BUT INGREDIENT QUALITY. SIFTING AND REFINING FLOUR WAS THE FIRST STEP TO A BEAUTIFUL LOAF. THIS 18TH-CENTURY HANDWROUGHT FLOUR TROWEL WAS AN ESSENTIAL TOOL. SOON AFTER ARRIVING in the Louisiana territory early in the 18th century, those sweet-tempered filles à la cassette acted up. It was not over the bugs, unattractive husbands, or batten-board houses to which they had been misled—it was about food. They had been promised resettlement in a tropical Paris with grandes rues, silk dresses,…

WE ALL HAVE OUR ways of making the most of soaring summer temperatures. South Louisiana is known for its frozen daiquiris, and now a new generation of bartenders is taking the craft to the next level. From brunch-darling Willa Jean’s Frosé to chill Bywater joint Cafe Henri’s Frozen Negroni, options for cooling off your afternoon abound. While many of these drinks are original creations, a few of them show off expert skills of translating a classic for the modern palate, like the exotic Rubin “The Hurricane” Carter from Bourée. Whether you choose one of those, or a classic like The Palace Café’s Hemingway Cocktail, you’re in for a treat. DEADBEAT DAIQUIRI MAKES 1 SERVING Recipe courtesy of Beachbum Berry, Beachbum Berry’s Latitude 29, New Orleans 1½ cups crushed ice 2…