Innholdsfortegnelse for May - June 2017 i Louisiana Cookin'

AS I’VE BRANCHED out and explored more corners of the Bayou State, I am continually astounded by the variety and sheer number of opportunities there are to experience its natural beauty. From walking down Bayou Saint John in New Orleans to the hundred-or-so miles of the Creole Nature Trail in Southwest Louisiana, or lazing in the shade of an old live oak tree at Oak Alley Plantation, it’s really just incredible. While we were researching New Orleans Plantation Country for this year’s travel story (page 51), we thoroughly enjoyed how each of the plantations specialized in different aspects of historical life, from the lush interiors at Houmas House & Gardens to the intricate portrayals of the lives of the enslaved at Whitney and Laura plantations, where they played a vital…

WHETHER YOU’RE AN avid backyard gardener with bushels of fresh cucumbers to spare or just love the cool, crunchy vegetable—we’ve got just the thing for you. By marinating seedless cucumber slices in this creamy, herby concoction, you’ll end up with one of the best side dishes you’ll taste all summer. BUTTERMILK CUCUMBER SALAD MAKES 6 SERVINGS ½ cup crème fraîche ¼ cup buttermilk ¼ cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill 1 clove garlic, finely grated 1 tablespoon lemon zest 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Sea salt, to taste Ground black pepper, to taste 3 large English cucumbers, sliced 3 fresh red Thai chiles, very thinly sliced ½ cup drained Pickled Red Onion (recipe follows)…

There was a time New Orleans more or less ended at Esplanade Avenue for many, and beyond Elysian Fields lay only a forest of unknown streets called (not quite accurately) “The Ninth Ward.” It was a destination that daunted even Blanche Dubois in A Streetcar Named Desire. Those were days when the notion of a “Marigny” was reserved for the cognoscenti, and “Bywater” didn’t really exist except as a telephone exchange. In the Beginning (FOR ME, AT LEAST) Many years ago, I was invited to dinner in this terra incognita by a brilliant and eccentric professor who lived in the most charming Creole cottage I ever saw. Lit mostly by kerosene lamps because it had only one electric plug, the house was nestled at the end of an unpaved cul-de-sac…

SPROUTS AND GREENS, blooms everywhere, and light, clean flavors. That is what New Orleans Chef Nina Compton of Compère Lapin thinks of when spring is in the air. The Saint Lucian chef, by way of Miami, has been serving seasonal, Caribbean-influenced dishes in the Crescent City since the restaurant opened early last year. Gather your family and friends together for a brilliant meal designed by Nina that they’ll be talking about for months to come. From the remarkably layered Carrot Ravioli with Carrot Noisette Sauce to the Trio of Pork (which features supple tenderloin, crispy belly, and a simple fresh sausage, all under a sweet-tart cherry sauce), Nina’s combination of easy techniques, unexpected flavor combinations, and stunning colors makes this menu stand out. These magnificent dishes may look daunting, but…

SHRIMP RÉMOULADE is one of Louisiana’s best summertime dishes. Instead of boiling the sweet Bayou State shrimp for this version, we opted for a quick roast with a flavorful lemon butter. With bright lemon acidity and fresh rosemary to balance it out, this dish will be a family favorite in no time. LEMON ROASTED SHRIMP RÉMOULADE MAKES ABOUT 8 SERVINGS 2 pounds peeled and deveined extra-large fresh shrimp (tails left on) ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup unsalted butter, melted 2 tablespoons freshly grated lemon zest (about 2 large lemons) 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or to taste 1 tablespoon minced garlic, or to taste 1½ teaspoons salt, or to taste 1 sprig fresh rosemary Mixed greens, for serving Rémoulade sauce, for serving 1. Preheat oven to 450°. 2.…

“YOU WANT TO EXTRACT AS MUCH FLAVOR OUT OF THAT SHRIMP AS POSSIBLE. YOU DON’T WANT TO LOSE ANYTHING. SO, BY LEAVING THAT HEAD ON, YOU’RE GETTING A LOT OF EXTRA FLAVOR.” —CHEF EDGAR “DOOK” CHASE IV AS THE LOUISIANA shrimp season heats up in the late spring and early summer, we are faced with a difficult but fantastic problem—how to cook them as many different ways as we can? For home cooks who want the most flavor from their shrimp, the best option is to buy them head-on. Not only do the heads make a striking picture, but they also offer tons of concentrated flavor. To talk about these Louisiana gems and give some expert tips, we turned to Chef Edgar “Dook” Chase IV. The 2010 Chef to Watch…

FASTEN YOUR SEATBELTS, readers, because we’re about to journey statewide to find great food and big fun because it’s finally spring! I have wanderlust because that old song by the country trio Rascal Flatts, “Life is a Highway,” keeps playing in my head. So, everybody pile in and let’s see what Louisiana has to offer—food-wise, that is. Regular readers know that every year about this time I do my best to persuade you to mark your calendars for the Breaux Bridge Crawfish Festival , this year May 5-7. This is the best way to spend an early spring weekend. Not only are there bazillions of crawdads, but after the bravest among you enter the crawfish eating contest, you can Cajun dance the night away to a string of live bands.…

LATE SPRING IS one of those favorite times of year. The weather starts warming up, and blue crabs start running in Louisiana’s marshes, bayous, and inlets. We waste no time figuring out new and exciting ways to dine on them. Louisiana’s blue crabs have a delicate sweetness that adds a distinct decadence to any meal. For this Chilled Crab Succotash we opted for lump crabmeat, but you should feel free to use whatever is at hand. Claw meat will have a stronger flavor and be somewhat lacking in texture, while the other end of the spectrum—jumbo lump—will be sublime (and quite costly). Bacon on top? Yes, it’s extravagant, but you deserve it. CHILLED CRAB SUCCOTASH MAKES ABOUT 8 SERVINGS 1 pound fresh or frozen lima beans Kernels from 4 ears…

WHAT, EXACTLY, QUALIFIES a stuffed shrimp as “Shreveport-style?” Whatever the answer the tasty crustaceans have an interesting place not only in food lore, but in the history of the Civil Rights Movement and black entrepreneurship in our nation. The robust morsels that have been butterflied, stuffed with crabmeat dressing, rolled in flour, and deep-fried can be found on menus throughout Louisiana—from Dupuy’s Seafood and Steak in Abbeville to the Mohawk Tavern Seafood Restaurant in Monroe. While the stuffed shrimp in Shreveport are larger, spicier, and more heavily breaded than most, they will be familiar to anyone who has ever eaten a deep-fried crab meat-stuffed shrimp in the South. So it isn’t the cooking method that makes them different, it’s where you get them. Stuffed shrimp are a house specialty offered…

Among the rolling hills and ancient cypress trees of northeast Louisiana, Monroe and West Monroe offer a wide variety of enticing activities for the whole family. From antiquing on Trenton Street and canoeing on Black Bayou Lake to hunting and freshwater fishing, Monroe is full of potential. In addition to all of those, the area features restaurants that can fulfill any craving, whether it’s an overstuffed shrimp po’ boy, local pasture-raised steak, or a frosty glass of locally brewed beer. The Twin Cities of northeast Louisiana also are home to a collection of museums and parks that highlight the area’s unique contributions to the American experience. You may come for a long weekend, but you may not want to leave. Downhome Delights Monroe offers a diverse and exciting dining scene,…

The muffuletta is one of New Orleans’ most iconic and quintessential eats. Traditionally, the colossal sandwich is stacked with Italian cured meats, cheeses, and the signature marinated olive salad, all stuffed inside a round seed–studded loaf. The symphony of flavors coming from the salty meats, creamy cheeses, and tangy olive salad makes for an unbeatable combination, especially as the oil and juices from the olive salad seep into the sturdy loaf. This incredible sandwich—named for the bread it is served on—is said to have been invented in the French Quarter at Central Grocery, a specialty market that was opened in 1906 by Sicilian immigrant Salvatore Lupo. At that time, Italian bakers made round muffuletta loaves that were peddled by street vendors in the French Quarter’s open market. Farmers and fishermen…

CAJUN AND CREOLE CUISINES have come to be known for their affinity for spice. People all over the Bayou State love adding a dash of Louisiana-style hot sauce—made from red chile peppers, vinegar, and salt—to just about everything, including gumbo, red beans and rice, even eggs and pizza. Local brands have made names for themselves with the spicy and vinegary product that can now be found on dinner tables across the country. One brand that has set itself apart in the hot sauce landscape is Slap Ya Mama. Throughout the years, the company best known for its Cajun seasoning blend and quirky name expanded its product line to include dinner mixes, fish fry, seafood boil, and hot sauces. Anthony “TW” Walker created Slap Ya Mama’s original seasoning blend in 1996…

Though most visitors to Lafayette may associate the area with our more famed Cajun and Creole culinary fare such as jambalaya, crawfish, and gumbo, it is the rice and gravy-centric plate lunch that fuels the people of Louisiana’s Acadiana region. Consisting of meat, a gravy-covered starch, a pair of vegetable sides, and a simple piece of bread —and often all served on a single plate—the plate lunch emphasizes speed, affordability, and a high calorie count. A close cousin to the meat-and-three restaurants found throughout the South, the history of Lafayette’s plate lunch houses is rooted in the marriage of rustic, home-style cooking, with the convenience offered by the buffet line. Rural meat markets were likely the first to sling portable plate lunches to a hungry working-class crowd. Instead of disposing…

ON THE NORTH SHORE of Lake Pontchartrain in Covington, seasoned local chefs Carl Schaubhut and Jean-Pierre Guidry are blending local and global flavors at the casual yet sophisticated Bacobar, their international street food concept. The contemporary menu is filled with innovative yet approachable dishes and cocktails that highlight the chefs’ favorite ingredients in new and exciting ways. They even offer a “Bacopedia” to help patrons understand some of the international street food fusions that may be unfamiliar territory. For instance, there is the bäco, a combination of an Asian steamed bun, or bao, and a taco. Carl and Jean-Pierre stretch the limits of Cajun and Creole cookery by infusing their creations with Asian and Latin flavors, turning out items like Gumbo Ramen, which combines a dark seafood gumbo “that any…

Along the winding stretch of River Road between New Orleans and Baton Rouge lies Plantation Country, a beautiful region that provides a glimpse into Louisiana’s past. This National Scenic Byway along the Mississippi River is dotted with ten historic plantation homes, where tours promise unforgettable experiences that take visitors back in time to learn about the way of life for the families who owned the homes and the slaves who built them. This historically significant area also offers one-of-a-kind cultural experiences and authentic Cajun and Creole eateries, all amid a spectacular landscape. Plantations Some of America’s most famous plantation homes are nestled along River Road, but it is their unique histories that make each of them worth visiting. Start your trip with a tour of Whitney Plantation in Wallace, the…

LOOKING FOR A sweet way to thank your mother for her years of devotion? Try this luscious, showstopping layer delight that combines tender almond cake, ripe spring strawberries, and a decadent buttercream frosting. We can never thank our mothers enough, but this cake is certainly a good start. QUEEN CAKE MAKES 1 (8-INCH) CAKE 1½ cups unsalted butter, softened and divided 2 cups granulated sugar 4 large eggs, room temperature 3 cups cake flour* 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 cup whole milk, room temperature 2 teaspoons almond extract 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ½ cup sliced fresh strawberries ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 6 cups confectioners’ sugar 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon strawberry preserves, divided ½ cup heavy whipping cream 1 cup semisweet chocolate morsels Garnish: Chocolate-Covered Strawberries (recipe on page 73)…

BRUNCH IS A BELOVED tradition in Louisiana, especially in New Orleans where the festive meal is said to have been invented. Indeed, we all know Louisianans will find d any excuse to celebrate with food and drink. Brunch truly fits the bill as it is meant to be a leisurely event, where guests linger over poached egg dishes and mimosas for hours on end. Many diners will wait in line for an hour or more at a restaurant to enjoy this special meal—something Joy Wilson, the creator of the popular Joy the Baker blog, firmly believes no one needs to do. The New Orleans transplant is a strong proponent of serving brunch at home, which is why she penned her new cookbook Joy the Baker Over Easy: Sweet & Savory…