Innholdsfortegnelse for September - October 2013 i Louisiana Cookin'

On cooler autumn days when I walk through the Crescent City Farmers’ Market, I am constantly amazed at the variety of local products available to folks in South Louisiana. Rice, sugar, incredible seafood, and even salt from Avery Island make eating locally—and eating well—a simple proposition. While at the market chatting with farmers and fishermen, I oft en see local chefs and their foragers doing the same. Th e level of partnership between chefs and purveyors here in New Orleans and around Louisiana is refreshing and remarkable. By knowing where their ingredients come from, and the hardworking folks who cultivate them, creative chefs can make the most of every season. It is chefs like these that we honor in our annual Chefs to Watch awards. Th ese innovative, passionate chefs…

Whether for a big tailgate or a quick weeknight supper, it’s hard to beat the warm comfort that macaroni and cheese brings to the table. Here, we kicked up the spice and added smoked andouille sausage for a distinctly Cajun flavor. For an unexpected twist, try different pasta shapes. Some of our favorites include cavatappi, shells, and orecchiette. CAJUN MAC & CHEESE MAKES 4 SERVINGS 1 (14-ounce) package andouille sausage, cut into .-inch slices 1 cup chopped red bell pepper 1 cup chopped green bell pepper ⅓cup all-purpose flour 2. teaspoons Cajun seasoning 1 quart whole milk 16 ounces shredded American cheese 3 cups shredded mild Cheddar cheese 1 (16-ounce) package elbow pasta, cooked and kept warm 1. In a large skillet, cook sausage over medium heat until lightly browned,…

Did you know that pecans contain more antioxidants than any other nut? Rich in fiber, vitamins, minerals, and a great source of plant protein, pecans are more than just a yummy bite. Spiced Pecans make an oh-so-savory snack or party favor. Get creative, as they are a great accompaniment to your cheese platter, or sprinkled on a salad or a dip. Toasting pecans is another delicious way to enjoy them, as it intensifies their flavor. I toast and then freeze them to make sure they are available for a dish at a moment’s notice. If you love the taste of pecan pie, then these easy-to-make Chewy Pecan Bars will melt in your mouth. Now you can consider this all-time favorite dessert a health food! With more than 1 million cookbooks…

“Local” is a theme that runs thick for New Orleans native Aaron Burgau, chef/owner of Patois. You’ll see it on his menu—an ode to Louisiana farm-to-table dining. You’ll hear it in his fast-paced, Big Easy ramble, when he’s talking about growing up in the city and the love he has for the close-knit community of chefs here. It’s safe to say Aaron had a genetic predisposition for becoming a successful New Orleans chef. Th e son of a shrimp broker with a Sicilian grandmother, he started working in restaurants at age 14, scrubbing dishes and toilets, bussing tables, and learning the industry from the ground up. Aaron credits his father with instilling in him business savvy and a strong work ethic; the convivial pleasures of food and cooking, though, he…

It is oft en said the best restaurateurs are those who come up through the ranks, so the fact that Chris Wadsworth started at age 14 as a dishwasher at a local seafood restaurant speaks well for his determination. Chris, a Lafayette native, stayed there for nine years before working in a couple of corporately owned restaurants, which led him to the elegant, century-old Café Vermilionville, in Lafayette. Over two decades, Chris sharpened his skills and expanded his artistry with Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse and as executive chef at Nottoway Plantation. In addition to his current position with IPO, Chris and his wife Sommer own Bon Repas, a company that includes a food truck, catering division, retail business, and personal chef services. For those wondering how Chris keeps up with all…

One of the most effective ways to honor local culture in Louisiana has always been through traditional cooking. So says Justin Girouard, who, along with his wife Margaret, own and operate Th e French Press in Lafayette. Justin started in the industry by washing dishes in a restaurant kitchen, where he also learned to do minor cooking and prep work. Working his way up through the ranks, Justin eventually found himself at the elegant Stella! in New Orleans, where he worked for nine years. “I was in the right place at the right time,” he says. “Scott Boswell, who owns Stella!, saw something in me that he could utilize, and he really taught me how to cook. I fell in love with it.” Eventually Justin became the sous chef at…

It’s sunrise at the boat dock in Delcambre, a small south Louisiana fishing community near Lafayette. Th e first shrimp boats are heading out into the shapeless horizon streaked in shades of pink. Th e hulls of boats still lingering at the dock are tinted gold by the sun that is slowly emerging from ebbing waters. My friend, Joe Broussard, is getting ready to head out for a day on the open water, hoping his shrimp haul will be a good one. His young son plays with a net, throwing it out in arabesque fashion across the water, while a couple of deck hands handle the heavy ropes. Joe’s boat is large enough to sustain rough weather and carry in a sizable catch. He’s a cowboy of the sea, the…

Festivals Acadiens et Créoles Lafayette, Louisiana October 11–13 With its deep Acadian and Creole roots, Lafayette is a hotbed of great food, live music, and good times, and Festivals Acadiens et Créoles does well to capture all of it. Th e festival was founded in 1972 to celebrate and preserve French-Cajun culture in the face of cultural homogenization. Th roughout the weekend, folks will rock and roll to more than 50 area bands playing zydeco, bluegrass, New Orleans brass, and swamp pop. And if all of that music weren’t enough, the festival will feature a jam session tent where novices and professionals can rock out with each other. Professionals will lead the sessions, but players of all abilities are welcome. With traditional and contemporary Cajun tunes in the background, festivalgoers…

My husband and son are both avid fishermen, so I can’t tell you how glad I was to see those whole fish recipes in the “Fresh & Simple” article in your May/June issue (page 65). Now I’ve just got to get them out on the water to bring home some fresh fish. (I’m hoping for red snapper!) Julie Parks Houma, Louisiana Since reading the Creole Mini Quiche recipe in the July/August issue (page 14), I have been obsessed. It’s just too easy to change up the ingredients and try new combinations. So far I’ve filled them with smoked boudin, crawfish, and even barbecued chicken. June Ramos Shreveport, Louisiana I’ve always been interested in cocktails and really enjoyed trying some of the New Orleans classics in the July/August cocktail story. As…

Ever since I was a youngster, I’ve marked my calendar for the fourth weekend of September, which is when the Louisiana Sugar Cane Festival is held in New Iberia. Papa pinned a corsage made with cellophane-wrapped sugar cubes and the festival’s logo “Hi Sugar!” emblazoned on purple and green ribbons to my blouse and off we went. Since Papa was the publisher and editor of Th e Teche News newspaper in neighboring St. Martinville, we oft en sported press passes which allowed us front-row seats at several of the many events. Having grown up in a family linked to the sugar industry (my maternal grandfather, A. P. Broussard was an overseer for one of the largest sugar cane farms in our area in the 1940s), I have had a long-time…

At twelve years old, Kid Chef Eliana has had an impressive career in the kitchen. She published her first book in 2010, launched a radio show that has hosted celebrity chefs, including Paul Prudhomme and Andrew Zimmern, and has shared live cooking stages with the likes of New Orleans chef John Besh. Eliana’s newest book Cool Kids Cook Louisiana (Pelican, 2013) focuses on her love of Cajun and Creole cooking. Th e book presents Bayou State recipes in an easy-to-follow format with tips, historical notes, and cultural references sprinkled liberally throughout. “I want kids to taste this food and say ‘wow, this is great!’” says Eliana. “If they see another kid [like me] cooking, they’re more likely to try new ingredients.” Eliana isn’t doing it on her own, though. She…

Michael Gulotta is the embodiment of the person who always knew what he was going to do with his life. “I grew up in Lakeview in New Orleans, and as long as I can remember, I wanted to cook,” he says. Fortunately, his mother encouraged him, took him on trips to the grocery store, and supported his idea to attend the Chef John Folse Culinary Institute at Nicholls State University. “As far back as I can remember, even at about age 9 or 10, my mom would do the cutting and chopping, and I would cook.” Ultimately, Michael found himself working in fine kitchens at Emeril’s Delmonico Restaurant, and for Chef John Folse at Bittersweet Plantation. But it was Chef John Besh for whom he truly wanted to work. “I…

Fear not, says Bronwen Wyatt, pastry chef at La Petite Grocery: Th ere is a sweet life beyond Key lime pie, bread pudding, and pecan pie. Bronwen, a Maryland native who came to New Orleans for college, and then moved to Portland, Maine, and later San Francisco, California, ultimately found the lure of the Crescent City too much to resist. While trying to be a writer but having trouble finding work in Portland, Bronwen’s brother, a restaurant chef, hired her to work in his restaurant. “I was a double major at Tulane in English and print-making, but discovered I had a knack for pastry-making. When I came back to New Orleans, I found out they needed a pastry chef at La Petite Grocery. I don’t really have formal training—I learned…

Sometimes the best ideas, and the most lasting, come to a person in a blink. So it was in 1980 when Charlotte Bollinger hosted a boat christening party for 600 people under a massive rented tent. “When we hosted that party 30 years ago, my father said ‘we’ll probably build another 100 boats like that.’ And I thought, ‘I can’t rent a tent every time.’ I need something permanent. So my husband and I paced off the area and began designing the barn that day,” she says. Th e sturdy structure began simply, with a large roof and no walls or insulation. Piece by piece, walls and insulation, a simple kitchen, a sophisticated sound system, and a second floor for storage were all added. Today, the barn can seat 110…

With summer’s heat a distant memory, autumn flavors turn to the smooth sweetness of bourbon and spicy rye whiskey. Th is stout twist on the classic Manhattan from Mid-City New Orleans bar Twelve Mile Limit is perfect for long, cool evenings, backyard barbecues, and tailgating. LEXINGTON MAKES 1 SERVING Courtesy of T. Cole Newton Twelve Mile Limit, New Orleans, Louisiana 1½ ounces rye whiskey, such as Old Overholt ¾ ounce sweet vermouth, such as Noilly Prat ½ ounce ginger liqueur, such as Stirrings 2 dashes Angostura bitters ¾ teaspoon Herbsaint Legendre Lemon peel 1. Place ice in an 8-ounce mason jar and set aside. In an ice-filled cocktail shaker, add whiskey, vermouth, ginger liqueur, and bitters. Stir with a bar spoon for 30 seconds until cocktail is cold. 2. Pour…

It’s been five years since I traveled from Lafayette, Louisiana, to compete in Napa, California, on the nationally televised Food Network Challenge. It was September 2008 at the Sutter Home Winery Build-A-Better-Burger cook-off where, as a finalist, I cooked my Bluesiana Burger and won the respect of the judges. I guess that out of 9,000 burger entries, first runner-up was pretty respectable. Meat, bread, and other stuff —some might say burgers are pretty simple. To be honest, they are correct—a basic, plain, and simple hamburger can oft en be memorable. So, the premise of my new Louisiana burger is best described as simplicity and focus on quality ingredients that elevate the basic experience. If truth be told, simplicity can take a lot of thought —and work. For me, cooking is…

Young people wondering what to do with their liberal arts degrees should gain inspiration from Chef Daniel Causgrove, who graduated with a combined major in environmental studies and English writing. Daniel started cooking in restaurants just aft er college in Syracuse, New York, and later in Vermont. “I found cooking suited me because there are intellectual and athletic elements to it that I found exciting, and it was artistic, too.” Eventually, Daniel landed at the venerable (and now shuttered) Café des Artistes in New York City. “Th at’s where I learned to be a professional cook,” he says. “Th e guys there had been there for years, and they taught me how to be a true worker. I would compare it to a place like Galatoire’s in New Orleans.” Later,…

Like so many other successful chefs, Alex Harrell did not start out to be in this business. He graduated college with a degree in biology, but found jobs few and far between in the sciences. But he always carried with him the memory and experience of cooking at home alongside his cardiologist father, who loved making fresh pastas and baking breads. “Cooking became his outlet during his time off,” Alex says, “and when I spent time with him, we were oft en cooking together.” Alex started cooking for a living in 1998, and had the opportunity to work under locally beloved and nationally renowned New Orleans Chef Susan Spicer at Bayona for a year. He then worked in three restaurants under Chef Gerard Maras before moving to Charleston, South Carolina,…