Innholdsfortegnelse for July - August 2014 i Louisiana Cookin'

IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SUMMER when I start to get stir-crazy, it’s a constant reassurance that whenever I climb into my old car and hit the road, it doesn’t matter which way I head. Louisiana is so full of wonderful sights, interesting people, and authentic flavors that a map is hardly necessary. Columnist and writer Patrick Dunne captures the essence entirely in his story about Grand Coteau (page 39) when he urges travelers to leave the highways as soon as possible to experience firsthand the unique communities that dot the Bayou State. In a world that’s so crowded with things competing for our attention, long road trips are a singular pleasure. In my travels, I’ve stumbled upon gems like Yellow Bowl Restaurant in Jeanerette and The Best Stop Supermarket…

DON’T GET STUCK in a salad rut! Salads are supposed to be healthy, but it’s time to get beyond the same old iceberg lettuce, croutons, and high-fat dressing. This Tropical Shrimp Salad has a perfect mix of summer ingredients combined with a creamy, cool dill dressing. When I’m in a rush, I’ll buy an already-chopped melon or pineapple, since they’re so readily available in grocery stores these days. For a fun presentation, I’ll sometimes serve this with flair in a scooped-out honeydew or cantaloupe melon half. TROPICAL SHRIMP SALAD MAKES ABOUT 4 SERVINGS 1. pounds large cooked shrimp, peeled 2 cups chopped pineapple 1⅓ cups honeydew melon balls 1⅓ cups watermelon balls 1⅓ cups cantaloupe balls 1 cup peeled, seeded, and sliced cucumber . cup chopped green onion ⅓ cup…

PEOPLE IN NEW ORLEANS oft en have heated debates over which snoball stands produce the fluffiest shaved ice and which ones have the best homemade syrup. Like the king cake, snoballs are a seasonal treat. Louisianians are ready to stand in a line that sometimes stretches down the block for these cool, sweet snacks. Shaved ice is an age-old tradition, but before the early 20th century, it had to be done by hand, and it was a lot of work. Eventually, some enterprising people fashioned machines to shave the ice, which greatly decreased the amount of time involved, making a snoball stand viable as a commercial enterprise even at the incredibly low price of 2 cents per serving. (That amounts to about 33 cents today.) Notable among these early innovators…

Golden, crispy, salty, and practically irresistible, there are a multitude of restaurants, diners, and hole-in-the-wall spots that make fried chicken their business. As with so many elements of the Bayou State’s culinary scene, fry cooks add their own special magic to the mix, whether it’s a vinegary brine, a secret mix of herbs and spices in the batter, or a glaze brushed on just aft er frying. While traveling Louisiana’s main drags and byways in search of the state’s best, we’ve been constantly impressed by the variety of methods and ingredients we’ve found. From perennial powerhouses like Dooky Chase’s Restaurant in New Orleans to local favorites including Chicken Shack in Baton Rouge and The Cotton Boll Grill up in Shreveport, there’s an abundance of options. And before you leave…

“[TRAVELING] HAS INFORMED MY COOKING AND HELPED ME UNDERSTAND WHO I AM, AS BOTH A SOUTHERNER AND A COOK.” —DONALD LINK JAMES BEARD AWARD-WINNING New Orleans Chef Donald Link has said, “This region is part of my DNA in a way that you can’t explain to someone who wasn’t raised here, but every Southerner knows exactly what I’m talking about.” After flipping through the pages of his newest book, Down South: Bourbon, Pork, Gulf Shrimp & Second Helpings of Everything (Clarkson Potter, 2014), that well-established sense of Southern nostalgia is piqued. In Down South, the Herbsaint chef and owner of various Crescent City restaurants takes readers on a culinary tour of the South and paints a vivid picture of the locales he’s visited and the dishes he encountered along the…

SATCHMO SUMMERFEST July 31-August 3 New Orleans, Louisiana IN AUGUST 2001, the city of New Orleans came together to celebrate and pay tribute to the life of Louis “Satchmo” Armstrong on the centennial anniversary of his birth. The original event was an overwhelming success, and now Satchmo Summerfest is a staple on the agenda of many festivalgoers in south Louisiana. In its 13th year, the annual 3-day music festival features some of New Orleans’s top acts, samplings of Louisiana’s world-famous cuisine, and a multitude of beverage vendors to keep attendees properly hydrated. The event, sponsored by French Quarter Festivals, Inc., takes place in and around the grounds of the Old U.S. Mint, which is conveniently located on the edge of the French Quarter and near the bustling music venues on…

FOR MIDSUMMER DINNER PARTIES, a light, sparkling cocktail is always a strong choice. This refreshing drink from Stroubes in Baton Rouge combines a strawberry’s sweetness with the calming flavor of cucumber to a delightful effect. If you can’t find cucumber vodka, regular vodka will produce a highly drinkable result. STRAWBERRY CUCUMBER COOLER MAKES 1 SERVING Courtesy of Nick Rhoton and Jesse Casciaro at Stroubes, Baton Rouge, Louisiana 2 slices cucumber ½ strawberry, hulled 1 teaspoon Simple Syrup, recipe follows ½ ounce plus 1 teaspoon strawberry liqueur, divided 1½ ounces cucumber vodka Soda water Garnishes: Cucumber ribbon, and sliced strawberry 1. In a cocktail shaker, combine cucumber, strawberry, Simple Syrup, and 1 teaspoon strawberry liqueur. Muddle. Fill with ice, cucumber vodka, and remaining ½ ounce strawberry liqueur. Pour mixture into a…

WITH ITS TALL CEILINGS, bright dining room, and lively atmosphere, Emeril’s Delmonico takes a refreshing look at classic Creole recipes and casts them in a distinctly modern light. The century-old institution is located steps from the St. Charles Avenue streetcar in New Orleans’s Lower Garden District. The historic restaurant opened its doors in 1895 under the direction of the same family that started Commander’s Palace, and in 1997 it was purchased and refurbished by Chef Emeril Lagasse as part of his professional mission to revitalize New Orleans cuisine while respecting its past. With an eye toward the Crescent City’s Italian influence, Emeril tapped Chef Anthony Scanio to head the restaurant’s kitchen in 2012. Anthony, who has lived and traveled extensively throughout Italy, considers the history of dishes and their ingredients…

DURING THE WARMER MONTHS, you’ll find many Louisianians outdoors, icy beverage in hand, honing their skills on the grill. Here, we’ve taken a staple summer item, corn on the cob, and added a flavorful twist by grilling it with Cajun seasoning and herb butter. Salty Cotija cheese complements the corn’s sweetness for a rich yet light taste that couldn’t be easier to create. Enhance grilled meats with this savory side, or enjoy it alone as a mid-aft ernoon snack. GRILLED CAJUN CORN MAKES 6 SERVINGS 1 cup butter, softened 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning, such as Slap Ya Mama, divided 8 ears fresh corn (in husk) 10 cups…

WHILE LOUISIANIAN BARBECUE CULTURE may not have the same clout as its other Southern neighbors, we can certainly hold our own at the grill. We have traditionally celebrated the pig by ways of a boucherie or cochon de lait, but even then, you don’t find the true barbecue calling that permeates the rest of the American South. Things are different in Louisiana, even our outdoor cooking. So, when barbecue season rolls around and the grills come out, that’s what most folks do… grill. But barbecue is different. It is the low and slow heat and smoke applied over hours in a meticulous and methodical fashion that turn a homely piece of meat into something really magical. One wouldn’t dare grill a brisket. The slab of beef needs a tender rub…

“I’VE TRAVELED ALL OVER THE UNITED STATES, BUT THERE’S NO FOOD LIKE THERE IS HERE IN LOUISIANA.” —ALZINA TOUPS Driving along the quiet stretch of Bayou Lafourche in Galliano, Louisiana, you could easily pass Alzina’s without realizing it. Faded lettering on the side of a former welding shop, barely visible from Highway 308, is the only giveaway to this reservations-only restaurant. Inside, Alzina Toups has prepared classic, straightforward Cajun meals for locals and visitors alike for almost 40 years. Until recently, guests could watch Alzina pick fresh herbs from the back of an old blue pickup truck. She’s since replaced the truck garden with a collection of planters on the concrete slab behind her restaurant. Healthy sprigs of parsley grow through the cracks where errant seeds fell during spring plantings.…

IN LOUISIANA, almost anything gives us an excuse to throw a party. And with a crowd to feed, dips are an easy, delicious treat for hungry guests. Reader and Chef Ace Champion sent us this recipe for Creole Crab Dip that makes entertaining a no-brainer. Standard Creole seasonings like Old Bay and shallots highlight the crabmeat in this dish. Put it together a day in advance, and pop it in the oven as partygoers arrive for a creamy, delectable Louisiana classic that is sure to impress. CREOLE CRAB DIP MAKES 6 SERVINGS Courtesy of Ace Champion | Green Bay, Wisconsin 1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened ½ cup mayonnaise ¼ cup shredded Swiss cheese ¼ cup minced shallot 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 2 teaspoons hot sauce 2 teaspoons Worcestershire…

Appetizers Creole Crab Dip, 85 Grilled Peach Antipasti Platter, 36 Marinated Olives, 36 Okra and Corn Fritters, 55 Peach and Shrimp Ceviche, 38 Beverages Peach Smash, 32 Spiced Rum Punch, 58 Strawberry Cucumber Cooler, 97 Desserts Blackberry Sweet Dough Pies, 46 Blueberry Crumb Bars, 58 Creole Cream Cheese Semifreddo with Blueberry Compote, 80 Mascarpone Peach Hand Pies, 34 Peach-Basil Granita, 38 Pillowcase Cookies, 66 Tarte au la Bouillie, 65 Meat, Poultry, and Game Cajun-Brined Fried Chicken, 54 Mesquite-Smoked coffee Chipotle Brisket, 13 Sausage with Petit Pois, 64 Sauces, Seasonings, and Condiments Blueberry Compote, 80 Cajun Sweet Dough, 46 Herb-Pepper Cane Syrup, 55 Lemon Butter Sauce, 77 Peach-Almond Chutney, 33 Peach-Mint Simple Syrup, 32 Simple Syrup, 97 Sweet Dough, 65 Seafood Louisiana Blue Crab Stuffed Flounder, 77 Spicy Smothered Shrimp, 65…