Innholdsfortegnelse for March - April 2014 i Louisiana Cookin'

FOR FOLKS WHO LOVE TO ENTERTAIN, it doesn’t get much better than brunch. In the soft springtime morning light, with a warm café aulait and some freshly baked scones, everything in the world seems good. My favorite brunches are typically small, informal affairs in the late morning—not so early that I can’t sleep in, but not so late that guests will need to snack beforehand (or arrive famished). And when it comes to seasonal flavors, it’s hard to beat spring in Louisiana. With an abundance of crawfish, late-season citrus, berries, and more, we have a remarkably wide palette from which to create inspired dishes. The light Frisée with Grapefruit Vinaigrette (page 71) will be making a number of brunch appearances this year, as will the always-irresistible Crawfish Bread Bites (page…

IN THE TRADITIONALLY Roman Catholic Louisiana where Lenten fasting was observed, eating meat was forbidden on fasting days. But that didn’t stop Creoles from wanting to eat something tasty. So Gumbo Z’herbes, derived from the French gumbo aux herbes or gumbo of greens, is one of the dishes that made it possible to be religiously observant and to eat well. Cookbooks oft en suggest making Gumbo Z’herbes using an odd number of mixed greens—usually seven or nine. Part of the dish’s mythology holds that the number of different greens that are used in the gumbo represents the number of new friends that the cook will make during that year. The greens used most oft en can include mustard, turnip, spinach, and other springtime varieties. As Lenten rules have relaxed, cooks…

FOR BOILED CRAWFISH that are worth the wait, waste no time getting to Cajun Claws in Abbeville, Louisiana. Scores of loyal fans line up during the height of mudbug season for Donni Choate’s perfectly seasoned, exquisitely plump crawfish. Here are some other good tips on having the best experience there: Call ahead (because they only boil when there are enough high-quality mudbugs around), make friends while you wait, and try the fried shrimp (one cannot live on boiled crawfish alone!). If you can’t make it to Abbeville, try some of these tip-top boil-joints. Big Fisherman 3301 Magazine St. New Orleans 504.897.9907 bigfishermanseafood.com (Take-out only) Cajun Claws 1928 Charity St. Abbeville 337.893.9437 cajunclaws.com Crawfish Town USA 2815 Grand Point Hwy. Henderson 337.667.6148 crawfish townusa.com Hawk’s Crawfish Restaurant 415 Hawk’s Rd. Rayne…

LOUISIANA ´S BEST O n any given Sunday morning, we receive e-mail chains of epic proportions from readers scrambling to figure out whose spark of genius will bring them to the best table in town. “Let’s do brunch” is the Louisianian battle cry for celebrating everything from azaleas coming into bloom to St. Patrick’s Day, Jazz Fest, the Easter bunny, and the spring equinox. Any excuse will do when the crawfish are running good and Pontchatoula strawberries are at their peak. Louisiana’s lively brunch tradition dates back to mid-19th-century New Orleans, when the concept was introduced in its modern form by Madame Bégué as a leisurely six-course “second breakfast” that began at 11 a.m. and usually lasted for 3 hours. The custom began in 1863 at Dutrey’s Coffee Shop, which…

OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS, Chef Sue Zemanick, of New Orleans’s Gautreau’s, has been on a tear. Aft er being named a Louisiana Cookin’ Chef to Watch in 2008, the James Beard Foundation has recognized her modern American cuisine four years in a row. Last November, she opened Ivy (also in the Crescent City), and we caught up with her to talk about one of Louisiana’s most beloved ingredients: crawfish. Q What do you like best about our crawfish? One of my favorite things about crawfish is that it’s so unique to Louisiana. People here have done a great job utilizing this little mudbug. To me, you can use them wherever you’d use shrimp: They’re very versatile and have a great flavor and texture. They’re like mini lobsters. Q Tell…

AFTER MONTHS OF PINING for fresh Louisiana crawfish, we eat them with abandon in the spring and early summer in gumbos, on salads, fried on a po-boy, smothered in macaroni and cheese, and more. We are always looking for new ways to enjoy their distinctive flavor, especially during Lent. These savory mushrooms pair well with a salad for an easy weeknight meal. SEAFOOD STUFFED MUSHROOMS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 4 portobello mushroom caps 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup chopped onion ½ cup chopped celery ½ cup chopped green bell pepper ½ cup chopped red bell pepper 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 teaspoons Old Bay Seasoning 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper ½ cup shredded Parmesan cheese, divided ½ cup shredded mozzarella cheese 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 2…

EGGS ARE EXCELLENT, especially when it comes to entertaining. Instead of a traditional dish, I wanted to share a creative brunch recipe that’s crowd-pleasing and packed with flavor. Crabmeat and Egg Casserole makes a luscious brunch using our superb Louisiana seafood, but shrimp or ham may be substituted, if you like. Everybody loves eggs, and most importantly, they have some surprising health benefits. They are a highly recommended protein-rich food full of vitamins and minerals, and at only 70 calories per egg, each provides 13 essential nutrients, vitamins, and high-quality protein. Let eggs be your guide this spring while you satisfy your taste buds and please your guests. CRABMEAT AND EGG CASSEROLE MAKES 10 SERVINGS 6 slices whole-wheat bread 1½ cups water 1 cup chopped yellow onion ½ cup chopped…

IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR no-nonsense Cajun flavors and incomparable crawfish, hop in your car and take a quick trip to Hot Tails in New Roads, Louisiana. And come hungry. Born and raised on the Acadian plains, Chef Cody Carroll has spent his life farming, fishing, hunting, and perfecting his particular style of “hardcore South Louisiana cuisine.” Located between the Mississippi and False Rivers, about 45 minutes north of Baton Rouge, Hot Tails offers innovative takes on crawfish joint standards. With the help of wife Samantha in the dining room and Chef Owen Hohl, who all met at the Louisiana Culinary Institute in Baton Rouge, they turned an old windowless drugstore into a culinary destination. When you enter Hot Tails, you’re not just walking into a restaurant. It is more of…

In the Bayou State, you can rest assured that wherever dancing and music are, great food is never far behind. During the state’s prime festival season, hundreds of thousands of people from around the world will migrate south for some of the best musical and cultural acts around. Here are some of our favorite bites from the venerable New Orleans’s Jazz & Heritage Festival, Festival International de Louisiane, in Lafayette, and one of the newer standout New Orleans events, Hogs for the Cause. Folks may be drawn in for the sounds, but the flavors keep them coming back year after year. NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE FESTIVAL • FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL DE LOUISIANE • HOGS FOR THE CAUSE NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE FESTIVAL Over the years, the New Orleans Jazz…

ATCHAFALAYA 901 Louisiana Ave. New Orleans 504.891.9626 atchafalayarestaurant.com Reservations: Yes BLUE DOG CAFÉ 1211 W Pinhook Rd. Lafayette 337.237.0005 bluedogcafe.com Reservations: Yes CAFÉ DES AMIS 140 E Bridge St. Breaux Bridge 337.332.5273 cafedesamis.com Reservations: No COULIS 3625 Prytania St. New Orleans 504.304.4265 Reservations: No CRISTIANO RISTORANTE 724 High St. Houma 985.223.1130 cristianoristorante.com Reservations: Yes GALATOIRE’S BISTRO 3535 Perkins Rd. #400 Baton Rouge 225.753.4864 galatoiresbistro.com Reservations: Yes LA PETITE GROCERY 4238 Magazine St. New Orleans 504.891.3377 lapetitegrocery.com Reservations: Yes LA PROVENCE 25020 U.S. 190 Lacombe 985.626.7662 laprovencerestaurant.com Reservations: Yes SATSUMA CAFE 3218 Dauphine St. New Orleans 504.304.5962 satsumacafe.com Reservations: No TABLEAU 616 St Peter St. New Orleans 504.934.3463 tableaufrenchquarter.com Reservations: Yes…

FOR SPRINGTIME GATHERINGS, it’s hard to beat a crawfish casserole. Since they’re flavorful, crowd-pleasing, and easy to assemble, we couldn’t pass up this soon-to-be classic from reader Dana Bergeron. When she has crawfish tails left over from a backyard boil, she whips up a batch of Cajun Crawfish Potatoes to serve with grilled steak or chicken. CAJUN CRAWFISH POTATOES MAKES ABOUT 8 SERVINGS Courtesy of Dana Bergeron Morganza, Louisiana ¼ cup butter 1 onion, chopped ½ cup chopped green bell pepper 6 large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and sliced ¼-inch thick 2 teaspoons garlic salt 2 teaspoons ground black pepper 2 (8-ounce) packages shredded Mexican cheese blend 1½ cups heavy whipping cream 1 pound crawfish tails 1.…

SUMTER HOUSE MAKES 1 SERVING Courtesy of Joshua Duke Olive or Twist, Baton Rouge, Louisiana 2½ ounces rye whiskey, such as Templeton Rye 1 ounce Italian vermouth, such as Carpano Antica ½ ounce vanilla syrup, such as Giffard Vanille de Madagascar ½ ounce Spiced Cinnamon Syrup, recipe follows 1 dash Angostura bitters Garnish: orange peel 1. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice, and add whiskey, vermouth, vanilla syrup, Spiced Cinnamon Syrup, and bitters. Stir until very cold, 15 to 20 seconds. Strain into a martini glass. Garnish with an orange peel, if desired. SPICED CINNAMON SYRUP MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS ½ cup sugar ½ cup firmly packed brown sugar 1 cup water 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper In a small saucepan, combine sugars, 1 cup water, cinnamon,…

INGREDIENTS 1 lg green onion, diced 1 lg green bell pepper, diced 1 lb. Conecuh Sausage, cut into 1/4 inch slices 1 T olive oil 4 cups chopped, cooked chicken 3 cups uncooked long-grain rice 2 10 1/2 oz. cans French Onion soup, undiluted 1 14 1/2 oz. can beef broth 2-3 tsp Creole seasoning 2-3 tsp hot sauce DIRECTIONS SAUTÉ first 3 ingredients in hot oil in Dutch oven for 4-5 minutes or until sausage is browned. STIR in chicken and next 5 ingredients. BAKE covered at 350 degrees for 40 minutes. Start stirring after 30 minutes. For more recipes, visit our website ConecuhSausage.com 1-800-726-0507 P.O.Box 327 Evergreen, Alabama 36401…

CAN IT BE THAT THE DAYS are getting just a big longer, perhaps imperceptibly so, but longer just the same? As spring approaches, I watch for telltale signs, like the pale green leaves sprouting on the towering pecan trees in my backyard or on the graceful bald cypresses on the banks of Bayou Teche. I take a deep breath and yes, even the air seems lighter, softer. The elephant ears that rim the water are starting to sprout. Just northwest of Lake Ponchartrain, in the parishes of Livingston and Tangipahoa, the harbinger of spring is the appearance of scrumptious, plump strawberries, ripe and ready for the picking. Since the 1930s, this area has been a stronghold for Louisiana’s berry crop which, by the way, came about rather curiously. There simply…

If roux is the base of Cajun cooking—especially as a starting point for gumbos and étouff ées—then the trinity is certainly right behind it. This time-honored combination of finely chopped onion, bell pepper, and celery adds to the flavor of the roux and builds on its dark, roasty foundation. Culinary traditions around the world each have their own set of distinct flavors and techniques, and it makes sense that the trinity would find its home in Acadiana. As a largely Spanish and French cultural mashup, the Cajun trinity resembles French mirepoix—onion, celery, and carrot—and Spanish sofrito, a roughly similar combination of garlic, onion, pepper, and tomato. And as with a roux, there is no one “right” way to cook the trinity. Think of the traditional trinity as a springboard to…

WHILE MANY AROUND THE WORLD mark the passage of time with a calendar or changing weather patterns, Louisianians look to their plates. Fresh, local food has been the norm here for generations, and it is on that premise that Chef Peter Sclafani arranged his new cookbook, Seasons of Louisiana. Crawfish, Creole tomato, shrimp, and tailgating seasons, to name a few, offer our cooks and chefs an ever-rotating palate of culinary treats. The book collects more than 100 recipes from his popular Baton Rouge restaurant, Ruffino’s, as well as some Sclafani family favorites. Dishes range from popular bayou staples like Crawfish Cheesecake and Crab Ravigote, to off-the-beaten-path preparations like Cedar Plank Redfish. Peter’s love of the Bayou State shines through in each page of Seasons of Louisiana, and his thoughtful takes…