Innholdsfortegnelse for May - June 2014 i Louisiana Cookin'

WHEN YOU FINALLY MEET your perfect po-boy, you know it. Instantly. While extensively searching for the best po-boys in Louisiana (see our findings on page 63), I ate a lot of them, and, for different reasons each time, fell in love with their crispy, crunchy, satisfying goodness. And the folks at the gym saw a lot more of me. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of po-boys around New Orleans and Louisiana, and narrowing the list to 10 was no easy task. I kept thinking about Grand Isle’s Shrimp Caminada, Casamento’s Oyster Loaf, and Mahony’s Peacemaker (crispy fried oysters with bacon and Cheddar). There was only one thing to do: Eat more. The more I ate, the more my mind wandered back to the sumptuous roast beef debris at R&O’s…

Beyond the raw, biting heat of cayenne and Tabasco peppers, the best Bayou State cooks create complex symphonies of smoky, savory, spicy, and sweet. Culinary traditions here demand the slow, methodical building of flavors, often starting with a nutty roux or sweet, simmered trinity. With those as a base, we turn to spice mixes to make the flavors pop. Cayenne, paprika, salt, garlic powder, and up to a dozen other spices typically find their way into a Cajun or Creole spice mix, but here, we have come up with three multipurpose blends that will quickly become pantry staples. The best part about them is that you can tweak each recipe to your liking, mixing and matching until you find your personal favorite. CLASSIC CAJUN SEASONING MAKES ABOUT ⅔ CUP 2…

What began in 1929 as an easy meal for New Orleans streetcar drivers who were on strike has evolved into a cultural icon that spans generations, overcomes class divides, and captures a wide swath of diverse Crescent City flavors. Po-boys are more than a sandwich. Much more. While the insides vary under crispy-yet-airy French bread, and folks will have heated discussions about where to find the best one, po-boys are the sandwich of New Orleans. (We’re sorry, muffuletta.) Before going much further, perhaps we should discuss the elements that make up a po-boy. The right kind of bread is paramount. New Orleans-style French bread, with its crackly crust, is absolutely essential. Toasting adds a nice touch, though that practice has fallen by the wayside. The size of the sandwich can…

“A MOUTHFUL OF STARS MAKES A CULTURAL LEAP OUT BEYOND THE LANDSCAPE WHERE MOST COOKS STIR THEIR POTS. … THIS IS THE FUTURE. [KIM IS] ALREADY WHERE WE’RE HEADED.” —FRANCES MAYES AUTHOR OF UNDER THE TUSCAN SUN GROWING UP IN NEW ORLEANS, author Kim Sunée was exposed to the joys of the table at an early age. Standing in the kitchen, learning from her Poppy as he painstakingly stuffed each crawfish for a creamy bisque, she developed a deep passion for food that would take her around the world. From Provence to Paris, Florence to French Guiana, Kim collected flavors and memories and compiled them into her newest work, A Mouthful of Stars (Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2014). “These are the foods that I have experienced and loved and cooked and…

ON WEEKEND MORNINGS when reader Lorraine Barbant longs for flavors from her Louisiana childhood, she often reaches for cane syrup. Over the years, this recipe for cornmeal and buttermilk pancakes with blackberry-infused cane syrup has become one of her family’s favorites. Later in the season when her blueberry bushes come into their own, she uses them in place of the blackberries. SATURDAY PANCAKES WITH BLACKBERRY STEEN’S SYRUP MAKES 4 SERVINGS Courtesy of Lorraine Barbant Bremerton, Washington 1 cup cane syrup, such as Steen’s 2 cups fresh blackberries 1½ cups all-purpose flour 1½ cups yellow cornmeal 2 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 2½ cups whole buttermilk 2 large eggs ¼ cup butter, melted and cooled Butter, for frying 1. In a medium saucepan, combine cane syrup and…

WHILE THIS RIFF ON THE Hemingway Daiquiri maintains many of the elements that made it a classic, the canny barkeeps at Pêche Seafood Grill in New Orleans swapped the crystal rum for cucumber and rose-scented Hendrick’s gin. Its floral and vegetal notes play nicely with the sour-almond maraschino liqueur and citrus juices. We bet Ernest Hemingway would have enjoyed this cocktail on late spring afternoons. THE HEMINGWAY MAKES 1 SERVING Courtesy of Matt Hunt, Pêche Seafood Grill, New Orleans, Louisiana 2 slices cucumber, diced 2 ounces grapefruit juice 1 ounce gin, such as Hendrick’s 1 ounce limeade ½ ounce maraschino liqueur Garnish: cucumber slice 1. In an ice-filled cocktail shaker, combine cucumber, grapefruit juice, gin, limeade, and maraschino liqueur. Shake vigorously, and strain into an ice-filled glass. Garnish with a…

AFTER A DAY OF driving around Lafayette, looking for the perfect location for their new restaurant, Chef Peter Sclafani and his business partner Ruffin Rodrigue sat down for a drink at what was then Cochon Lafayette. Looking out at Bayou Teche from the bar, they lamented about not having found anything outstanding. Little did they know, they’d just stumbled upon it. While the building wasn’t for sale when they had that cocktail, word soon got out that the two were planning to open a second location of their popular Baton Rouge destination, Ruffino’s Italian Restaurant. The Acadiana off shoot maintains many of the features that have worked well for Peter in Baton Rouge, including its warm, comforting interior, wood-fired pizzas, and customers’ pictures adorning the walls. During the milder months,…

Aloud sizzle and quick puff of smoke, paired with anticipation for the meal, are the grillmaster’s reward for a long day of fishing (or quick trip to the neighborhood fishmonger). Louisiana’s coast, vast marshlands, and lakes teem with a wide variety of finfish and crustaceans that take a char quite well. Get ready to fire up your barbecue, because whether they’re marinated, basted, or served with a side of salsa, these dishes are full of fresh ideas to liven up your grilling. With new flavor combinations and techniques to try, these dishes will be on your regular rotation before you know it. GRILLED TUNA SALAD MAKES 6 SERVINGS 1½ pounds sushi-grade tuna (about 2 inches thick) 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 1½…

“I LOVE SEEING PEOPLES’ REACTIONS WHEN THEY EAT MY FOOD. IF I CAN CREATE A MEMORY FOR SOMEONE, OR MY FOOD CAN INSPIRE A DISTANT MEMORY, THAT REALLY FUELS MY FIRE.” —COLT PATIN FROM A YOUNG AGE, Chef Instructor Colt Patin recognized his culinary aspirations and did everything he could to further them. Starting as a dishwasher at Café Des Amis, he quickly worked his way up to assistant sous chef. Soon after, he took his talents to Clementine’s in New Iberia, where he eventually became executive chef. While some chefs may have been content to continue running their kitchen, Colt enrolled at the Louisiana Culinary Institute to advance his culinary education. “Before culinary school,” he says, “I learned on the job and taught myself through research and trial and…

THE RED SNAPPER is an abundant fish in Louisiana waters and is truly a delight for home cooks. These fillets, available whole, skin-on, are a wonderfully quick way to spice up a weeknight meal. Here, we score the fillets to ensure even cooking and top them with a simple pan sauce of lemon, capers, and tomatoes. SNAPPER WITH TOMATO AND CAPERS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 4 (6- to 8-ounce) snapper fillets, skin-on, scales removed and scored 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 4½ teaspoons olive oil 2 cups arugula 2 tablespoons white wine Zest and juice of 1 lemon 1 pint grape tomatoes, halved 2 tablespoons capers 2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley 1. Season snapper fillets with salt and pepper. 2. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, add…

MUDBUG MADNESS May 22–25 Shreveport, Louisiana THE PEOPLE OF SHREVEPORT gather each May to pay homage to one of the Bayou State’s most cherished rituals—the crawfish boil. Over a span of 30 years, Mudbug Madness has grown from a two-day boil to a four-day extravaganza, filled with music, Cajun food, and fun for the entire family. Throughout the long weekend, more than two dozen bands will take the stages, playing zydeco, swamp pop, funk, and more. This year, Grammy Award-winning musicians Terrance Simien and Wayne Toups will sing their Creole and Cajun hearts out. And don’t worry about getting hungry. Mudbug Madness offers an incredible array of locally made crawfish dishes, as well as crawfish-eating contests for adults and children alike. There’s even a crawfish-calling contest. While you’re enjoying the…