Innholdsfortegnelse for September - October 2015 i Louisiana Cookin'

BY NOW YOU WILL HAVE HEARD or read some of the many retrospectives about Hurricane Katrina, the storm that devastated New Orleans and the surrounding Gulf Coast region 10 years ago. The damage it wrought cannot be overstated, but the resilience on the part of New Orleanians and those who stepped up to support them in their greatest time of need is certainly heartwarming. Along with the first responders, restaurateurs returned in full force to help feed the people who were rebuilding the city. For more on how chefs nourished the city and gave New Orleanians a sorely needed taste of home, be sure to read Elizabeth Williams’ essay on page 23. Just weeks after Hurricane Katrina made its indelible mark, Southwest Lousisiana—Calcasieu, Cameron, and Beauregard Parishes in particular—suffered deluges…

AS HARD AS IT MAY BE TO BELIEVE, blackening is a relatively new addition to the Cajun lexicon. Chef Paul Prudhomme pioneered the method in the early 1980s while cooking at New Orleans’ Commander’s Palace. As his fame grew and he introduced Cajun-style cuisine to the rest of the world, the term became synonymous with spicy. But blackening is more than just spice. The crispy coating of butter and spices can capture tender morsels of chicken and fish. To save our kitchens from the spicy smoke that is the unavoidable byproduct of blackening, we took advantage of our outdoor grill. If youd rather keep it inside, just preheat your oven and cast-iron pan to 500°. Along with a traditional blackening spice that features thyme, oregano, and cayenne, we mixed up…

Oxlot 9 • Covington For many across the Gulf Coast, Hurricane Katrina was no doubt one of life’s most significant turning points. For Chef to Watch Jeffrey Hansell, the New Orleans kitchen environment in the months following the storm is what solidified his decision to pursue a career as a chef. “From culinary school I was hired to help reopen Commander’s Palace right after Katrina, which was an unbelievable experience. Seeing people coming together and bringing the city back through food is what made me realize ‘Yes, this is it’” The up-and-coming chef, who spent his childhood years fishing every day that he could, cut his teeth under greats like Tory McPhail, Tom Robey (both of Commander’s Palace), and Frank Stitt (of Highlands Bar and Grill in Birmingham, Alabama) before…

Mosquito Supper Club • New Orleans The concept behind Mosquito Supper Club is a simple one: two chefs, 12 to 15 diners, and one delightfully old-school Cajun feast. “We don’t do anything progressive; we take it back to how we ate growing up. It’s very simple” says Melissa Martin of the supper club turned occasional pop up that launched her into the local spotlight in 2014 and spawned her and business partner, Effie Michot’s, newest brick and mortar establishment, The Curious Oyster Company. Growing up in a family of fishermen in Chauvin, Louisiana, Melissa was steeped in Cajun tradition. In a home with five siblings, family meals were a mainstay for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. On Sundays, extended family (many of whom lived on the same street) would share a meal,…

Describe the food culture along the Red River Riches culinary trail in central Louisiana. Central Louisiana is like a meeting place for all of the best Louisiana foods. You’ve got local beef and pork and access to great seafood from south Louisiana. And there are two different styles of cooking—Cajun and Creole—coming together right here. You get the best of both worlds. What do you like most about cooking in Alexandria? I have the luxury of having access to great local farms with products I want to use, such as honey, goat cheese and pecans. There’s a farm nearby that produces pasture-raised hogs that we use for pig roasts, a tradition Cajuns call cochon de lait. They also send some of their hogs to New Orleans, but I love having…

“I COOK MORE TODAY LIKE MY GRANDMOTHER ” says Chef John Besh, award-winning New Orleanian chef and cookbook author, the newest of which is Besh Big Easy (Andrews McMeel, 2015). “I use fewer pots than I ever have. My pantry doesn’t have to be filled with every spice known to mankind. I’m content cooking foods I grew up with, making sure my children have a taste for it and really understand the soul of the food ” In his previous books, John focused on exquisite and elaborate Creole dishes, family meals, and the influence of his mentors on his culinary creative process, but in Besh Big Easy, he had a different goal. He wanted a cookbook that would help preserve classic New Orleans recipes, dishes that every New Orleanian and…

BEHIND THE DARK WOOD BAR at Lock & Key Whiskey Bar in Baton Rouge, Arthur Lauck and Brandi Tabor create handcrafted cocktails from a diverse selection of more than 240 whiskeys. For this take on the no-fruit old fashioned cocktail, Arthur chooses PennyPacker Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey for its black pepper and spicy notes. SHARP DRESSED MAN MAKES 1 SERVING Courtesy of Arthur Lauck, Lock & Key Whiskey Bar, Baton Rouge, Louisiana 1 (2-inch) square ice cube 2 dashes Angostura bitters 1 teaspoon Ginger Simple Syrup (recipe follows) 1½ ounces PennyPacker Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey 1 (2-inch) piece orange peel 1. In a rocks glass, add ice, bitters, Ginger Simple Syrup, and bourbon. Gently rub orange peel along the rim of the glass, and reserve as garnish. GINGER SIMPLE SYRUP…

LOUISIANA HAS A LONG, RICH HISTORY with sweet potatoes. Farmers in the Bayou State have been growing them for hundreds of years, and the Louisiana State AgCenter has a research station dedicated to improving the crop’s flavor and heartiness. In addition to their superstar status in sweet potato pie and candied yams, sweet potatoes are a nutritious addition to anyone’s culinary repertoire. They are packed with beta carotene (which the body uses to make vitamin A), fiber, vitamin B6, potassium, and vitamin C (when they are baked in their skins), all while having low levels of sodium and fat, and no saturated fat. Louisiana sweet potato farmers tend to grow the sweet, moist Beauregard and Evangeline varieties, but sharp-eyed shoppers can find a dozen kinds at Bayou State farmers’ markets,…

THE CONCEPT OF “RESTAURANT” has so successfully spread around the world that it is hard to imagine a time when there were no restaurants. But there was such a time. Originally the word “restaurant” referred to a cup of very intense bouillon that was served in a teacup as a restorative for those whose digestion was delicate. Unlike a tavern, which served a communal meal at an appointed time, the places that served a restaurant did so upon demand. Gradually these specialty shops added other simple fare, like soft-boiled eggs or toast, still always available upon demand. In these establishments, both men and women were welcome, and they paid for only what they ordered. The places themselves came to be known by what they served, i.e., restaurants. When people began…

Since the late 19th century, Louisiana’s Northshore has been a destination for those looking to slow down, unwind, and enjoy the dining, arts, entertainment, and natural bounty of the area. At just a 45-minute drive from New Orleans, the picturesque towns of St. Tammany Parish are perfect for a weekend getaway. EAT YOUR WAY DOWN THE TAMMANY TRACE Five Northshore towns and villages are connected by the Tammany Trace, a 31-mile bike and hike trail created from old Illinois Central Railroad tracks. As it meanders across the parish from Slidell to Covington, it passes through downtowns, scenic green spaces, and stretches of the Lake Pontchartrain waterfront. Along with the scenic vistas, hungry travelers on the trail will find themselves near a variety of local favorites, including Sal & Judy’s in…

Willa Jean Bakery • New Orleans Nick Oskoian, of Willa Jean Bakery, is the epitome of someone who’s always known what he wanted to do with his life. From an early age, Nick spent time in the kitchen cooking with his grandfather, who inspired Nick’s love of food. “I never really considered any other career option,” Nick says. Growing up in an Armenian household in Monroe, Louisiana, Nick got his start in a gyro shop before moving on to a Lebanese Restaurant called Palmyra. He took a short hiatus to Thibodaux to attend the John Folse Culinary Institute at Nicholls State. From there he spent time in both New Orleans and his native city, working with 2011 Chef to Watch Cory Bahr at Canard’s, followed by stints at Cotton, Nonna, and…

Square Root • New Orleans “Right after Hurricane Katrina, I was sitting around with some coworkers at the insurance agency where I worked, and I asked my office manager, ‘If you could do anything besides insurance, what would it be?’ and she said, ‘Id start a bakery’ And I thought, ‘Wait, that’s actually an option? That’s what I’m going to do’” says Blake Abene of Square Root of his decision to pursue a career as a pastry chef. In the 10 years since the pivotal conversation, Blake went on to receive a degree from the Culinary Institute of America in Baking and Pastry Arts and has subsequently worked in some of the country’s top bakeries, learning from the masters. Now at 2011 Chef to Watch Phillip Lopez’s Square Root in New…

FRUITS OF THE VINE Jeff and Libby Landry established a 20-acre vineyard, nestled in the beautiful West Monroe hill country, where they grow grapes that capture the flavor of north Louisiana. The couple and their family started off on the Northshore of Lake Pontchartrain but later moved to West Monroe, where they expanded their offerings to include 17 wines and a variety of jellies. Among acres of native Blanc du Bois and Norton grapes, Landry Vineyards hosts outdoor concerts and events throughout the year, including the popular Red Grape Stomp Fest in August. WHERE CATS ARE KING In the fertile waterways of north Louisiana, catfish reign supreme. Whether you’re angling for channel, blue or flathead catfish, there are plenty to go around. They are celebrated each spring at the Franklin…

FROM HIS KITCHEN AT BEAUSOLEIL RESTAURANT & BAR in Baton Rouge, 2011 Chef to Watch Nathan Gresham turns out a variety of traditional Louisiana dishes alongside playful international reinterpretations. Boudin Balls with Red Hummus is his take on the New Orleans classic red beans and rice, and Pumpkin and Shrimp Bisque shows his grounding in the Bayou State’s culinary sensibilities. While Beausoleil isn’t a seafood restaurant per se, fresh catches are writ large on the menu. One of the most storied Louisiana dishes to appear on Nathan’s menu is Turtle Soup. Served with a healthy dose of sherry and plenty of spice, this Creole stalwart gets a classic treatment. As with all seafood dishes, a great turtle soup starts with the freshest possible turtle meat, Nathan explains, and he gives…

SEPTEMBER 4-7 Shrimp & Petroleum Festival Morgan City | 985.385.0703 shrimpandpetroleum.org 4-5 Mamou Cajun Music Festival Mamou mamoucajunmusicfestival.com 12-13 Smokin’ Oldies Cook-Off West Baton Rouge westbatonrouge.net/main-events.html 18-20 St. Theresa Bon Ton Festival Sulphur | 337.583.4800 visitlakecharles.org 18-19 Natchitoches Meat Pie Festival Natchitoches meatpiefestival.com 18-19 Marthaville Good Ole Days Festival Marthaville | 800.259.1714 natchitoches.com/marthaville-good-ole-days-festival 23-27 Louisiana Sugar Cane Festival New Iberia | 337.369.9323 hisugar.org 25-26 Bogalusa Blues & Heritage Festival Bogalusa bogalusablues.com 25-26 Jim Bowie Festival & BBQ Throwdown Vidalia | 318.336.8223 concordiapchamber.com 25-26 Louisiana Chicken Festival Dubach facebook.com/LouisianaChickenFestival 26-27 Best of the Bayou Houma | 985.876.5600 bestofthebayou.org OCTOBER 2-4 La Fete Des Vieux Temps Raceland visitlafourche.com/events 2-4 Gretna Heritage Festival Gretna | 504.361.7748 gretnafest.com 3-10 Red River Revel Shreveport | 318.424.4000 redriverrevel.com 7 West Louisiana Forestry Festival Leesville | 337.238.0647…

Why did you choose Israeli food as your primary cuisine? It is the food I grew up eating and cooking with my mother and grandmother, since I was born in Israel. The food always meant something to me and truly had a story for me. I think people in New Orleans will enjoy it as I do. What distinguishes Shaya from other Middle Eastern or Mediterranean restaurants? We use a lot of Eastern European influence, from places like Bulgaria, Romania, Poland, and Georgia, and foods from Yemen. There are also foods from Turkey, Greece, and Morocco—all of those cultures that have emigrated to Israel in the last 60 years, with different cultures cooking for each other. What are the essential seasonings and spices of Israeli cuisine? We’re using a lot…

WHEN CITY PORK DELI & CHARCUTERIE opened in Baton Rouge’s hip Perkins Overpass neighborhood a few years ago, it caused a stir. Hungry Red Stick diners turned out in droves for its house-made andouille sausage, pâtes, and smoked duck breast. Last autumn, the sandwich shop’s owners seized an opportunity to expand to the bourgeoning Town Centre neighborhood. Rather than trying to duplicate the success of their first location, City Pork brought on Chef Ryan André—a 2012 Louisiana Cookin’ Chef to Watch who had most recently served modern Creole cuisine at Baton Rouge’s Le Creolé—to create a more robust menu for City Pork Brasserie & Bar. “I like to take the traditional Louisiana and Southern dishes we grew up with and twist them with other ethnic flavors, like Asian or German”…

NOVEMBER 14–15 THREE RIVERS ART FESTIVAL COVINGTON Born of St. Tammany Parish’s vibrant arts community, the Three Rivers Art Festival attracts over 55,000 people to Covington’s Columbia Street. Artists from 22 states converge on the village to exhibit their work, give demonstrations of their craft, and compete for top honors at the juried show. OCTOBER 1–3 MANDEVILLE’S MARIGNY OCTOBERFEAST MANDEVILLE The city of Mandeville fêtes the birth of its founder, Bernard de Marigny, with a three-day gastronomic journey celebrating the local bounty of food, wine, and art. In addition to the Grand Tasting (with 150 wines and beers), OctoberFeast features an open-air Art Stroll and concert. OCTOBER 10–11 WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL MADISONVILLE This annual event, situated on the scenic Tchefuncte River, features over 100 wooden and classic boats. Now in…

Bin 77 • Baton Rouge “We’re doing some innovative things here. That’s what Baton Rouge residents really want. I think they’re tired of the same old thing” says Chef David Dickensauge, of Bin 77 in Baton Rouge. And if David’s success at the popular wine and tapas bar is any indication, the Baton Rouge audience is wholeheartedly embracing the changes he’s making to the city’s culinary scene. His worldly menu features many Southern classics with ethnic flourishes and advanced technique. Talent in the kitchen runs in David’s family. Born in San Rio, California, he was around food from a very young age alongside his grandmother, who owned three Mexican restaurants. “I always put happiness and food together” he says. Eventually he landed his first job at Commander’s Palace in 1994.…

Restaurant Calla • Lake Charles When talking with professional and focused chef David Sorrells about his introduction to the culinary world, it’s difficult to picture the young cook, who described a rocky college experience and self-confident attitude typical of so many young chefs. David got his start at Brennan’s of Houston and soon ventured to the Las Vegas incarnation of Commander’s Palace. While out west, David moonlighted at world-class Las Vegas establishments, including Picasso and now-closed Renoir. One day while shopping, David learned that Thomas Keller, of the famed French Laundry restaurant in Napa Valley, would be in town for a book signing later that week. “I made sure I got there early and was first in line—with a resume and handwritten mission statement. About two weeks later I got a…

CULINARY CROSSROADS As the Red River rolls southeast from Shreveport and Bossier City, it feeds fertile farmland that supplies dinner tables and restaurants throughout the region. Areas along the Red River Riches Culinary Trail exemplify the combination of Cajun and Creole flavors with Spanish traditions and soul food of the American South. Near Alexandria, Inglewood Farm grows a wide variety of organic produce, including the state’s only organic pecans. It serves central Louisiana with a farmers market at its Harvest Barn, as well as a second location in Alexandria’s Garden District. Farmers and artisans from the region come together to sell products including jams and jellies, goats’ milk products and pasture-raised beef. SLICE OF LIFE In Shreveport and Bossier City, those with a sweet tooth head to Strawn’s Eat Shop…

How would you describe the style of cooking in north Louisiana? We don’t try to cook New Orleans food. We do our own thing. It’s more squash, tomatoes and cornbread than it is heavy rouxs and traditional French-Creole cooking. North Louisiana food, to me, is a little more like soul food. Hot water cornbread, field peas with smoked bacon, smothered squash … they’re really what drive our cuisine. We do meld in all of our wonderful Louisiana seafood, and there are obviously other influences from our heritage that are also found in south Louisiana and throughout the state. What makes north Louisiana unique? My area around Monroe is made up of small communities, and we’ve maintained our Main Streets. If you look at Antique Alley in the Cotton Port Historic…

RECIPE INDEX Breakfast Couche Couche with Andouille, 72 Beverages Apple Praline Dark and Stormy, 43 Sharp Dressed Man, 97 Desserts Chocolate Brioche Bread Pudding with Praline Sauce, 47 Cushaw Pie, 17 Grilled Corn Bavarois, 62 Meat, Poultry, and Game Blackened Chicken Alfredo, 38 Braised Duck and Dirty Rice, 60 Cane Vinegar and Honey Glazed Chicken, 79 Chicken-Fried Rabbit with Smoked Tasso White Beans, 14 Praline Rum Glazed Baby Back Ribs, 44 Sauces, Seasonings, and Condiments Blackening Rub, 36 Cajun Roasted Pecans, 46 Crawfish Butter, 51 Creole-Italian Blackening Rub, 38 Dark Flour, 75 Ginger Simple Syrup, 97 Mojo, 56 Praline Sauce, 47 Saffron Rouille, 52 Shallot Vinaigrette, 54 Shrimp Stock, 83 Spicy Lemongrass Blackening Rub, 38 Tangy Buttermilk Sauce, 15 Thai Chile Vinegar, 54 Yogurt Basil Sauce, 38 Seafood Blackened Redfish…