Innholdsfortegnelse for July - August 2015 i Louisiana Cookin'

FOR OUR FIRST EAT LOCAL ISSUE, we scoured the state for not only our favorite high summer ingredients, but for a handful of the many Louisiana businesses that support their local economies. From Botsky’s Premium Hotdogs in Lake Charles (page 29) to Geauxsicles in Shreveport (page 75) and La Divina in New Orleans (page 70), it is reassuring to see that chefs and artisans care so deeply about keeping their flavors as local as possible. Th roughout the year, we visit farmers’ markets and revel in the quality and availability of delicious produce. From the hottest days of August to February’s chilliest evenings, the Bayou State’s intrepid farmers and fishermen continue to excite and inspire our palates. For instance, while I enjoy eating corn on the cob as much as…

Amid the abudnance of summer produce, it is easy to overlook corn. While it’s most oft en boiled or grilled and eaten off the cob, corn’s sweet, mild flavor plays well with spicy peppers, salty meats, and a host of herbs. Steaming bowls of corn soup may reign in the cooler days of autumn, but in the summer, chilled corn soup, topped with a tart, crunchy cucumber and tomato relish, can brighten a brunch or aft ernoon party. When cutting the kernels from your cobs, don’t throw away extra flavor. Aft er the kernels have been cleared, get extra juice (or milk) from the cob: place the cob in a bowl, and run the blunt side of a knife down its length. Th e resulting liquid is packed with flavor…

IN LOUISIANA, which is graced with time-honored traditions and year-round access to fresh produce and seafood, sauces have always been a crucial element of dining. Whether adding a texture, introducing a new flavor, or simply gilding the lily, classical French sauces, in particular, have been used with abandon to adorn all sorts of Cajun and Creole dishes. Born in Acadiana to German and Cajun parents, 2005 Chef to Watch Holly Goetting knew young that she wanted to grow up to be a chef. Aft er completing the culinary program at Nichols State University and working in kitchens across the country, she returned home to Lafayette to cook at Charley G’s. Now 12 years into her tenure as the restaurant’s executive chef, Holly challenges herself to use new flavors and techniques…

BETTER CHEDDAR DIP, said to have originated at Langenstein’s grocery store, has been a staple on the New Orleans party circuit for as long as Ruby Benoit can recall. In her homemade version of the oft -imitated concoction, she mixes extra-sharp white Cheddar with smoky Gouda, roasted garlic paste, and toasty pecans to create the dip’s signature symphony of harmonious flavors. These days, Ruby whips up a batch for gatherings large and small, regardless of the season. Th e dip is heavenly yearround with simple buttery crackers. During the summer months, she serves the savory spread with a colorful selection of crudités. Left overs, if there are any, make an unbeatable omelet filling or grilled cheese sandwich. BETTER CHEDDAR MAKES ABOUT 4 SERVINGS ¼ cup mayonnaise 1 ½ teaspoons hot…

Culinary Antiques: Pages 23–26: Ice cream accoutrements from Lucullus, 610 Chartres Street, New Orleans, Louisiana, 504.528.9620, lucullusantiques.com. Ice cream plates and forks courtesy of a private collection in New Orleans. Page 23: Ice cream scoop courtesy of a private collection in Dallas, Texas. Pages 25–26: Pewter molds courtesy of a private collection in New York City. Now in its 14th year, Louisiana Cookin'Chefs to Watch honors chefs from around the Bayou State who push the culinary envelope while respecting Cajun and Creole traditions.…

YOU HAVE LIKELY HEARD THE TERM “farm to table” bandied about over the past several years. Here in Louisiana, the relationship among farmers, butchers, and restaurants has only gotten stronger. Farmers see the advantage of marketing their products to restaurants, while restaurants know the freshest foods are going to contribute to the best menu items. And the butchers? Well, everybody knows the sooner meat reaches restaurant kitchens from butchers, the better the meal will be. Th ere is no downside to growing, selling, and eating locally, especially in a state as farm-ready as Louisiana. One of the leaders in the Louisiana farm-totable movement is Chef John Besh, who not only helms a number of restaurants in New Orleans, but somehow finds time to spread the word via various television programs.…

WHEN SUMMER ARRIVES and gardens across the Bayou State are bursting with life, savvy home cooks flock to the kitchen, perfecting their recipes for the abundant okra crop. While traditionally found in stews and soups, the earthy, velvety vegetable is surprisingly versatile and is delightful grilled, fried, or pickled. Here we’ve combined crispy fried okra with sweet heirloom tomatoes and topped them with a rich, lemony mix of crème fraîche and buttermilk for a distinctly Southern taste that captures the flavors of the season. FRIED OKRA AND HEIRLOOM TOMATO SALAD MAKES ABOUT 4 SERVINGS ½ cup creme fraiche 3 tablespoons whole buttermilk 1 teaspoon lemon zest 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice ¼ teaspoon sweet paprika ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives 4 large heirloom tomatoes, sliced ⅓-inch…

HISTORIC DOWNTOWN LAKE CHARLES, Louisiana, just steps from the city’s lakefront, is home to a bustling epicenter of economic growth. Historic structures, are springing back to life through a handful of restaurants, shops, and cultural centers popping up on every corner. Th e revival’s draw is such that one of the city’s native sons, Mike Krajicek, returned home, aft er a lengthy stint of travel, with an urge to contribute to his hometown’s cultural boom. Soon aft er coming home, he opened a new restaurant based on an old American tradition: hot dogs. It was the sentimental nature of the hot dog that first drew Mike to the idea of opening Botsky’s. “I like the nostalgia of the hot dog,” Mike says. “It reminds me of childhood, ballparks, aft er-school…

SINKING OUR TEETH INTO FLAKY LOAVES of French bread stuffed to the brim with seafood and dressed in a perfect combination of veggies and mayonnaise is one of New Orleans’s most revered rituals. Th e po’ boy is our go-to menu item for lunch and one of the first local traditions we share with out-of-town guests. One might argue that the best way to take these venerable bites of culture is in the Crescent City, prepared by a skilled po’ boy chef, and New Orleans author Todd-Michael St. Pierre would be quick to agree. However, he does not abide the assertion that good po’ boys can’t be made at home. “HAIL TO THE CHIEF OF ALL SANDWICHES! IN A CLASS OF ITS OWN, IT’S ROYAL YET DOWN-TO-EARTH AND INSPIRES LOVE…

FOR LIGHT, late-summer cocktails from Root2 in New Orleans’s Lower Garden District, barman T. Cole Newton oft en turns to Lambrusco, a sparkling Italian red. Th e wine’s subtle sweetness combines with fresh lemon peel and the beguiling spiced hibiscus notes of Sorel liqueur, while its bourbon backbone reminds us that fall is around the corner. BERETTA MAKES 1 SERVING Courtesy of T. Cole Newton, Root2, New Orleans, Louisiana 1 ounce bourbon 1 ounce Sorel liqueur* ½ ounce Cane Sugar Syrup (recipe follows) ½ ounce fresh lemon juice 2 ounces Lambrusco Garnish: lemon peel 1. In a cocktail shaker, add ice, bourbon, Sorel, Cane Sugar Syrup, and lemon juice; shake until cold. Strain into a chilled coupe glass. Top with Lambrusco, and garnish with lemon peel, if desired. * ¾…

FEATURING: • 160 pages with beautiful photography • Recipes from celebrated Louisiana chefs and restaurants • New Orleans classics – including po-boys • Dozens of Cajun and Creole cooking tips PURCHASE TODAY! With its gumbo pot of cultures and flavors, Louisiana cooking has always had seafood at its core. Fed by the Gulf of Mexico, lakes, and the mighty Mississippi, Bayou State cooks create masterpieces from shrimp, crawfish, and more. This collection of more than 75 classic and updated seafood recipes will inspire countless heartwarming meals. Exciting Louisiana Classics…

THE SMOKE. THE SIZZLE. More time under a moonlit sky. We’re not sure what we love most about grilling, but it’s likely a combination of those. Th ere’s no shortage of prefab grill rubs on the market, but we take a special pleasure in getting the exact flavors we want by mixing up our own. Th is Mustard-Ancho Rub—equally at home on a steak or a juicy cut of pork—and Lemon-Basil Rub will help you liven up your grill routine. LEMON-BASIL RUB MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP ¼ cup lemon pepper seasoning 4 teaspoons dried basil 2 teaspoons dried chervil 2 teaspoons ground fennel seed 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1. In a small bowl, combine all ingredients. Transfer to a sealed container,…

From old-school ice cream cones to modern ice pops with ambitious flavor combinations, nothing says summer quite like the sweet relief of an icy, frozen treat. And during Louisiana’s subtropical summers, stepping out for a creamy gelato or a frosty ice-cream soda goes from indulgence to survival mechanism. Frozen treats are an age-old tradition, and ice cream in all its forms has a history that stretches around the globe. Here in Louisiana, pastry chefs draw inspiration from their backgrounds as well as our wealth of local flavor, adding their own special touch to the mix with fresh seasonal fruits and locally produced products. While scouring the state’s highways and back roads in search of the best frozen delights, we’ve been impressed by the variety of methods and ingredients that go…

New Orleans Keife & Co. • 801 Howard Ave. keifeandco.com Online KegWorks • kegworks.com ARUGULA. COFFEE WITH CHICORY. GRAPEFRUIT. While many popular foods are bitter, when it comes to the five essential tastes—sweet, salty, sour, umami (savory—think soy sauce), and bitter—bitterness is oft en ignored. In the world of cocktails, bartenders and mixologists have long used a few drops of bitter tinctures (known as bitters) to balance out sweet or tart drinks. While they are highly flavored and not entirely palatable on their own, a drop here or there adds a remarkable depth to tipple. As New Orleans’s cocktail culture has grown and flourished, a band of reputable bitters-makers has sprouted up in (and relocated to) the area. Th e largest and most well-known of the bunch, Bittermens, makes about…