Innholdsfortegnelse for May - June 2015 i Louisiana Cookin'

IT’S EASY TO GET WRAPPED UP IN OUR OWN NEIGHBORHOODS. Th ere are so many festivals, fairs, and events going on that you can forget, even if temporarily, the cool stuff that’s happening in the rest of the state. Earlier this year, I made a resolution to get out and make more quick trips, and it’s been fantastic. In this issue, we craft ed some amazing itineraries for a few of our favorite jaunts: down Magazine Street in New Orleans (page 51), around the small bayou town of Jean Lafitte (page 47), and up on Lake Pontchartrain’s forested Northshore (page 41). Each gives highlights of our favorite sights, shops, and places to eat, but they’re just very good starting points. For in-depth stories on each of those three places, we…

BEGINNING AROUND 1885, many Italians and Sicilians immigrated to New Orleans and its environs, and by the early 1900s the Crescent City had a sizeable Italian population. Th at population included Sicilian farmers who lived near the city and traveled each day to sell their produce at the French Market and other markets. Because of the lack of electric refrigeration, these markets opened early to protect the freshness of the fruits and vegetables. Aft er delivering to the markets, the farmers, who had risen well before the sun, were hungry. Sicilians oft en frequented shops on Decatur Street, many of which specialized in Italian products, including olive oil, figs, lemons, cheeses, and imported cured meats. One of the groceries they frequented was Central Grocery, located on Decatur near the French…

PACK YOUR FAVORITE PICNIC BASKET and get ready for some of the best picnicking weather in New Orleans. We visited some of our favorite shops around town to round up proper provisions, and packed a basket full of local delicacies, regional cheeses, and a stellar selection of wines to make sure your aft ernoon gets off to a great start. BRIMMING BASKET Essential Picnic Tools Corkscrew Serrated knife (or pocketknife) Spreader for soft cheeses Cloth napkins Freezer jacket for wine PICK UP BEFORE YOU PACK UP Three Spots for Picnic Sandwiches 1 Boulangerie Parisian-Chic 4600 Magazine St. 504.269.3777 2 Rivista Cute & Unique 4226 Magazine St. 504.371.5558 3 Continental Provisions Locally Inspired 1235 N. Peters St. (At French Market) 504.407.3437 WINE TIPS From John Keife and Jim Yonkus of Keife & Co. SPARKLERS…

About 30 minutes south of New Orleans, nestled amongst the swamps and bayous of the Mississippi River Delta, lies the historic fishing village of Jean Lafitte. Th ough only a short car ride from the Crescent City, the tiny town with its authentic bayou culture feels like a different world. In what is literally a one-way-in, one-way-out community, nature lovers and history buffs can spend the day exploring the town’s wildlife-packed swamps, tasting the Gulf ’s freshest seafood, and learning about the fascinating culture and history of the town’s citizens. Th e town of Jean Lafitte is part of a larger area known as the Barataria Basin, a collection of tiny communities and bayous along Barataria Bay. Th e Barataria Basin was originally settled by Native Americans who built ceremonial…

Along with superior service and terrific local ingredients, passion is perhaps the most important ingredient in a restaurant. Along with the storied white-tablecloth restaurants that have made Louisiana’s cuisine famous, our great state is dotted with scores of small-town restaurants that have withstood the test of time. From lunch counters to 24-hour diners, these hometown gems serve up heartwarming food while acting as community gathering spots. Each of these restaurants provide a special insight into not only the diners they serve, but Louisiana’s diverse culinary culture. From spicy boudin at Scott’s Best Stop Supermarket to the coffee and pies at Lea’s Lunchroom in Lecompte, mom and pop restaurants resonate with the local population and draw in visitors from all over. Th ese spots can also be rallying points for the…

HONEY IS GORGEOUS SWIRLED INTO HOT OR ICED TEAS, and is said to help with allergies, heal wounds, soothe sore throats. And of course, honey adds beautiful heady flavor to savory and sweet dishes at the table. Lucky are those who have beekeeping neighbors and reap the benefits of nearby honey and comb. At Commander’s Palace in New Orleans, Executive Chef Tory McPhail sources the honeycomb for his lush cheese boards exclusively from Bocage Bee & Honey in Baton Rouge. Elizabeth Holloway and Milou Barry, Bocage’s owners, maintain over 150 hives and produce stunning varieties of honey that taste of flowers or fruit or burned wood. Th e buttery flavor of their Old Bridge honey is perfect drizzled heavily on a warm, flaky biscuit. When Milou had a restaurant long…

ROAD TRIP! IF YOU ARE LIKE ME, you get that occasional attack of wanderlust, and you just have to go somewhere outside your usual environment. May I suggest a culinary tour of Louisiana, one of the foodiest states in the country? New York City has its Broadway, Washington D.C. has its monuments, Colorado has the mountains…. Th ey may all be iconic, but here in Louisiana we pride ourselves on our never-ending creativity with our locally grown food products. Farm to table? Hey, we invented it. How important is the restaurant industry to Louisiana? According to the Louisiana Restaurant Association, restaurants had a $7 billion impact on the state’s economy last year. And those billions came from upwards of 16,000 restaurants. Th e LRA also reports the industry is home…

BLUEBERRIES ARE A LATE SPRING TREASURE in Louisiana. Able to flourish just about anywhere in the state (save the deep Southern parts) and quite forgiving with daylight requirements, blueberry bushes are beautiful, and the fruit is delicious. While most of the sweet little berries end up in desserts and tart jams, we took a savory approach with an Italian-inspired blueberry mostarda. It is an ideal accompaniment to grilled pork and chicken and will keep for a few weeks in the refrigerator. _ GRILLED PORK CHOPS WITH BLUEBERRY MOSTARDA MAKES 4 SERVINGS 2 cups blueberries, divided ¼ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar 2 tablespoons white wine 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar 3 tablespoons whole grain mustard 1¼ teaspoons kosher salt, divided 4 (8-ounce) 11⁄2 inch thick bone-in pork chops ½…

WITH ITS ICONIC PINK FAÇADE, the historic building at 417 Royal Street in New Orleans has witnessed quite a bit of history since its construction in 1795. Most recently, it has been home to Brennan’s, one of the most storied restaurants in the French Quarter. Last year, partners Ralph Brennan and Terry White lovingly renovated the building and reopened Brennan’s in the fall. From the beginning, Ralph and Terry knew they would be walking a tightrope between tradition and progress as they rehabilitated the restaurant’s bones. “Th e whole idea for downstairs was driven by the front windows, and it flowed back from there. Now you can see all the way from Royal Street to the courtyard,” says Ralph. In addition to the Royal Street windows looking into the Cuban-tiled…

In the city of New Orleans, known for its vibrant and diverse cultural, culinary, and historical highlights, Magazine Street stands out. Beginning Uptown near Audubon Park and continuing to Canal Street, visitors will find exceptional dining, art studios, phenomenal antiques of every stripe, and dozens of shops specializing in everything from high-end linens to locally-made home goods and apparel. UPSCALE DINING Near Napoleon Avenue, Chef Justin Devillier has made a name for himself craft ing sublime dishes using local ingredients at La Petite Grocery. He is perhaps best known for his jaw dropping Blue Crab Beignets, but we also recommend the Turtle Bolognese, Gulf Shrimp and Grits, and Fried Green Tomatoes topped with Shrimp Salad. Th e tall-ceilinged and tiled Lilette dining room, bathed in light from long windows, lets…

OVER THE PAST 10 YEARS, Chef Todd Pulsinelli has refined his skills at a number of Chef John Besh’s Crescent City restaurants, starting at Restaurant August, then helping open Domenica and the American Sector at the National World War II Museum (where he was recognized as a 2010 Louisiana Cookin’ Chef to Watch). Aft er a stint at Besh Steak, he’s returned to the sophisticated Restaurant August, but this time as its executive chef. Th roughout his time in New Orleans, Todd has refined his technique while incorporating local ingredients and traditions into his cooking. As it turns out, the growing New Orleans Vietnamese influence has caught Todd’s eye, and he is enjoying working with Asian-inspired fresh herbs and spicy pepper pastes. We caught up with him to talk about…

THOSE FORTUNATE ENOUGH to be guests of Ivonne and Douglas Hoy during a Louisiana State University football game are greeted with warmth, hospitality, and if they’re lucky, Ivonne’s ceviche. She and her brother have modified the light, citrusy recipe that was passed down by their father, a native of Nicaragua. Ivonne experiments with surprising flavors by substituting parsley and mint for the customary cilantro, and changes it up regularly for seasonality. Louisiana seafood mingles perfectly with the traditional Spanish flavors. Try it at your next gathering. We know you’ll love it too. _ REDFISH AND SHRIMP CEVICHE MAKES ABOUT 12 SERVINGS Recipe Courtesy of Ivonne Hoy, Baton Rouge, Louisiana 1 pound red snapper fillet, cut in 3⁄4–inch pieces* ½ pound extra-large cooked shrimp, cut in 1-inch pieces 3 cups minced…

Culinary Antiques: Pages 23–26: Cocktail equipment from Lucullus, 610 Chartres Street, New Orleans, Louisiana, 504.528.9620, lucullusantiques.com; New Orleans Silversmiths, 600 Chartres Street, New Orleans, Louisiana, 504.522.8333, neworleanssilversmiths.com; As You Like It Silver Shop, 3033 Magazine Street, New Orleans, Louisiana, 504.897.6915, asyoulikeitsilvershop.com. Location courtesy of The Terrell House, 1441 Magazine Street, New Orleans, Louisiana, 504.247.0560, terrellhouse.com. New Orleans Picnic: Pages 35–38: Cheese selection courtesy of St. James Cheese Co., 5004 Prytania Street, New Orleans, Louisiana, 504.899.4737, stjamescheese.com. Wine selection courtesy of Keife & Co., 801 Howard Avenue, New Orleans, Louisiana, 504.523.7272, keifeandco.com. Spring Fling: Page 60: New Classic Martini Glass, available at Pottery Barn, potterybarn.com; large silver tray*. Page 61: Crystal Soho Cocktail Shaker by Reed & Barton, available at Wayfair, wayfair.com. Page 63: Rimmed silver tray*. Page 65: Silver ice…

IN HIS WORLD GENTLEMEN did not wear wristwatches, socks of any color but black, nor did they drink cocktails, which were reserved for ladies or visitors from “Th e North.” Th ese were a few of the incontestable axioms my grandfather lived by, and though he imagined he drank only Irish whiskey and water, he was in fact known to sip rum sours and was seriously partial to juleps and Ramos gin fizzes. Somehow, these all remained outside the category of effete Yankee cocktails. He also unselfconsciously wore a thin gold wristwatch in the evening, a gift from his adored wife in 1926. I still have the watch, its affectionate inscription ground off by an unscrupulous Canal Street pawnbroker aft er it was stolen and hocked, then miraculously recovered. Sometimes…

FEATURING: • 164 pages with beautiful photography • Recipes from celebrated Louisiana chefs and restaurants • New Orleans classics – including po-boys • Dozens of Cajun and Creole cooking tips COMING JUNE 2015 With its gumbo pot of cultures and flavors, Louisiana cooking has always had seafood at its core. Fed by the Gulf of Mexico, lakes, and the mighty Mississippi, Bayou State cooks create masterpieces from shrimp, crawfish, and more. This collection of more than 75 classic and updated seafood recipes will inspire countless heartwarming meals. Exciting Louisiana Classics…

North of New Orleans, the rattle of streetcars and throngs of tourists give way to quiet waterfront communities, scenic roadways, and quaint downtowns. Since the early 19th century, the Covington/Abita area has been a destination for those looking to slow down, unwind, and enjoy the natural bounty, dining, and entertainment. Today’s visitors will find a modern mecca of dining and imbibing possibilities, from elegant restaurants, charming tearooms, and casual sandwich shops to craft beer breweries and vineyards. Guests will find plenty to do over the course of a weekend and should stay in one of the area’s many hotel rooms, B&Bs, or the newly reopened Southern Hotel in the heart of downtown Covington. Nearby towns and attractions offer quick and enjoyable day trips for the restless, and there’s no shortage…

LIFELONG NEW ORLEANS RESIDENT KIT WOHL knows better than most the pride Crescent City locals take in their food. Now on the eighth title in her Classic New Orleans cookbook series, the award-winning author carries on her tradition of providing readers an authentic taste of Creole cuisine with New Orleans Classic Creole Recipes (Pelican Publishing, 2014). Th e book explores the celebrated history and recipes of the Crescent City, featuring an array of New Orleans classics like Red Beans and Rice, Shrimp Creole, and Beignets. Top chefs from local institutions including Galatoire’s, Antoine’s, Commander’s Palace, Dooky Chase’s, and more have provided exceptional tips and techniques, with recipes that have been reinterpreted for ease of preparation by the home cook. Sprinkled with bits of history, culinary know-how, and local folklore, New…

LOUISIANA IS FAMOUS for the exquisite flavor of the blue crab which bears its moniker. While it’s difficult to improve upon Louisiana blue crab meat in its simplest state, the addition of bread crumbs, a few seasonings, and proper binding agents make for one of the most exciting ways to experience the prized crustacean: the crab cake. Here we’ve taken classic Creole seasonings and combined them with delicate crabmeat and irresistibly crisp panko bread crumbs. Th e result is undeniably delicious, and a zesty rémoulade adds an extra flavorful punch. Serve these as an elegant appetizer or over a simple salad. _ PANKO CRAB CAKES WITH RÉMOULADE MAKES 12 TO 14 SERVINGS 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup diced onion ½ cup diced green bell pepper ½ cup diced red…

AFTER A ROUND AT THE OAKWING GOLF COURSE, in Alexandria, Louisiana, many golfers find themselves cozying up to the bar at Bistro on the Bayou. Th e bartenders there serve a combination of golf classics, like the Arnold Palmer, as well as some novel offerings, like this sweet, tart Georgia Peach. _ GEORGIA PEACH MAKES 1 SERVING Courtesy of Drew Jones Bistro on the Bayou, Alexandria, Louisiana 2 ounces pineapple juice 1½ ounces peach-flavored vodka, such as Absolut Apeach 1 ounce peach schnapps Garnish: maraschino cherry, orange slice 1. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice, and add pineapple juice, vodka, and schnapps. Cover, and shake until cold. Strain into a chilled martini glass, and garnish with cherry and orange slice, if desired.…