Innholdsfortegnelse for March - April 2015 i Louisiana Cookin'

EVERY YEAR AS THE WEATHER WARMS and the crawfish start leaving their winter burrows, I get somewhat possessed. Not just with tearing through pounds upon pounds of them at backyard crawfish boils or on quiet afternoons at The Fly in New Orleans, but trying to make new ways with classic Louisiana dishes. There’s nothing like a rich, buttery crawfish étouffée with Crowley’s fluffiest rice, but this year I turned to an even more traditional recipe: crawfish bisque. Not a soup, as some would expect, but painstakingly-stuffed crawfish heads. In this issue, Marcelle Bienvenu shares her recipe, which she serves on top of a crawfish soup (page 18). I got a few friends together, and we peeled and stuffed crawfish while some Professor Longhair was playing on the hi-fi. I can’t…

As one of Louisiana’s Lenten culinary highlights, the Feast of St. Joseph is eagerly anticipated by those of Sicilian heritage. Families gather around the table and share a meatless meal in honor of Sicily’s patron saint, passing around dishes of pasta with “sawdust” (seasoned breadcrumbs) and platters of eggplant rollatini drenched in red gravy. Dried fava beans are often given as a symbol of good luck at elaborately decorated altars. EGGPLANT ROLLATINI MAKES 24 ROLLATINI 3 medium eggplants (about 1 pound each) 4 teaspoons salt, divided ¼ cup olive oil Red Sauce, recipe follows 1 (15-ounce) container whole milk ricotta cheese ½ cup grated fresh Parmesan cheese 3 tablespoons minced fresh basil 2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary 3/4 teaspoon ground black pepper, divided 1 cup shredded fontina cheese Garnish: chopped…

Each year, as crawfish season starts hitting its stride, we look for delicious new ways with this iconic Louisiana crustacean. Breads, pies, pastas—you name it. The salty, savory flavor of crawfish has strong affinities with cheese, spices, eggs, and more. While few things are quite as much fun as hosting a big backyard crawfish boil, it’s hard to beat the convenience of peeled crawfish tails. Because they’re cooked before packaging, you can live life knowing you’re never more than a few minutes away from a delicious meal. CREAMY TOMATO CRAWFISH PASTA MAKES ABOUT 4 SERVINGS 2 tablespoons unsalted butter ½ cup chopped sweet onion ¼ cup chopped fresno chile 1 teaspoon minced garlic ¼ cup sweet vermouth 1 (28-ounce) can San Marzano tomatoes ½ cup Creole cream cheese or crème…

THE SWANS DOWN ®  CAKE FLOUR DIFFERENCE • Swans Down® Cake Flour is 27 times finer than all-purpose flour, so it makes your cakes rise higher and gives them a texture that is lighter, fluffier, and more moist. • Swans Down® Cake Flour is great for all baked goods, not just cakes. It makes cookies more delicate, biscuits more tender, muffins more moist, pancakes fluffier, and everything more delicious. TIPS FOR MEASURING SWANS DOWN ®  CAKE FLOUR • Sift cake flour once, and then spoon desired amount into your measuring cup. • Use a knife to scrape excess flour from measuring cup. • Use dry measuring cups (as opposed to liquid) for measuring Swans Down® Cake Flour. USE SWANS DOWN ®  CAKE FLOUR IN YOUR FAVORITE RECIPES…

IN LOUISIANA, there is a strong connection between food and family. Recipes are discovered, cultivated, and passed down through the generations, creating happy memories with the ones we love. Nell Aucoin Robarge of Baton Rouge inherited this recipe for Crawfish Pie from her mother, Brenda Aucoin, who adapted it from an old church cookbook. Growing up, Nell remembers enjoying the pie, along with fried fish and other Cajun delicacies, when extended family would come to visit. Today, she makes it on weekends and when her children are in town. CRAWFISH PIE MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS ½ cup salted butter 1 large onion, diced (about 11/2 cups) ½ bell pepper, seeded and diced (about 1/2 cup) 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 (10.75-ounce) can cream of mushroom soup 1 (5-ounce) can evaporated…

WHERE CREOLE MEETS CAJUN As a natural crossroad for Louisianians, Baton Rouge is a miniature melting pot for the state’s culinary traditions. As the Capital Cravings trail winds from Plantation Country in the east to the plains of Acadiana in the west, it becomes clear that this is where Creole culture meets Cajun. From roadside joints to fine dining restaurants, diners will find chefs making the most of area products. Local farms, including Iverstine Family Farms in Kentwood, supply Baton Rouge area restaurants with grass-fed beef and pastured poultry and hogs. From late winter through early summer, crawfish get top billing around the Capital Cravings Trail. From Hot Tails in New Roads, where they farm their own crawfish, to Tony’s Seafood Market in Baton Rouge, where customers can find them…

Recipe Index Beverages Lakeside Sip, 97 Rosemary Lemon Gin Fizz, 50 Ultimate Bloody Mary, 42 Desserts Chocolate and Orange Zeppole, 40 Creole Cream Cheese Crêpes with Strawberry Compote, 49 Pine Nut-Fennel Cookies, 40 Vanilla Crêpes, 50 Meat, Poultry, and Game Bayou Benedict, 48 Grilled Lamb Chops, 78 Poached Eggs, 48 Sauces, Seasonings, and Condiments Crawfish Beurre Blanc, 60 Creole Mayonnaise, 53 Creole Seasoning, 56 Deviled Egg Vinaigrette, 46 Marinated Olives, 42 Pickled Okra & Fresh Ancho Peppers, 42 Red Sauce, 36 Rosemary Lemon Syrup, 50 Rosemary Syrup, 97 Savory Molasses Custard, 73 Spicy Tartar Sauce, 57 Strawberry Compote, 50 Tasso Hollandaise, 48 Violet Mustard, 79 Seafood Crawfish and Artichoke Bread, 58 Crawfish Boil Frittata, 61 Crawfish Boudin, 13 Crawfish Cheesecake, 59 Crawfish Dip, 59 Crawfish Étouffée, 53 Crawfish Hand Pies,…

AMIDST THE HISTORIC SURROUNDINGS of the Alexandria Garden District, visitors will find Spirits Food and Friends, a modern oasis of classic American cuisine, craft cocktails, and live music. Locals have known about the hotspot for decades, but recently the menu has grown with some fresh ideas and new items at the hands of Chef Stephen Naegle. Having grown up in Colombia and Mexico City, Stephen brings a wealth of experience and a variety of influences to the lively American grill. “I was fortunate enough to have a family of mostly women, and I was in the kitchen from an early age. I had that Hispanic family influence ” says Stephen. “Central and South America are kind of like Louisiana in that everything revolves around food ” Stephen began cooking during…

When it comes to the Bloody Mary, there are a few elements in the equation: acidity, texture, spiciness, and fixins. When it comes to each of those areas, every Louisianian will have deeply set opinions on the matter. In search of perfection, we tested variations on each of those themes to come up with a bold yet approachable cocktail that will set just the right mood for your spring brunches. ULTIMATE BLOODY MARY MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS 16 cups water 2 pounds vine-ripe tomatoes, cored 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 cup chopped sweet onion 1 cup chopped celery 2 garlic cloves, minced, and divided 4 cups tomato juice 2 cups vodka 6 tablespoons white wine vinegar ¼ cup minced celery 3 tablespoons grated fresh horseradish 2 tablespoons anchovy paste 1…

Complex, delightfully spicy, and a hit at breakfast or dinner, the Bloody Mary is one of the crown jewels of Louisiana’s cocktail culture. Stories abound about when and how the drink came to be, but according to the most popular legend, it was first crafted in the 1920s as a simple combination of vodka and tomato juice. Speculation suggests that the creator was Fernand Petiot, a Parisian bartender with years of experience in the hospitality industry. The tavern he managed, Harry’s New York Bar, was popular in American expat circles, and rumor has it that Ernest Hemingway was a fixture on its stools. In 1934, Fernand came to the states and eventually took a gig at the St. Regis Hotel in New York City. It was then that Louisiana’s famous…

IF YOU’VE EVER LIVED IN LOUISIANA, or even visited, it’s probably fairly easy to identify themes associated with our cultural identity. Mardi Gras and jazz music would certainly be on the list, but one could just as easily include strong family ties, delicious food, and Catholic roots. And nowhere do these values converge more than around the dinner table. Food meets faith is both Jeff Young’s tagline and the concept behind his multidisciplinary brand (and namesake), The Catholic Foodie. Jeff’s newest endeavor is Around the Table with the Catholic Foodie: Middle Eastern Cuisine (Liguori, 2014), a Middle Eastern cookbook that celebrates the idea of preparing and enjoying a meal with loved ones. Drawing strong inspiration from both the Lebanese heritage of his wife, Charlene, and his pilgrimages to the Holy…

IF THERE’S ONE THING Louisiana chefs have proven time and again, it’s this: we take our sandwiches seriously. From the mighty muffuletta to the iconic po-boy, we have a knack for creating irresistible lunchtime staples. And with the Bayou State’s bounty at our fingertips, why not continue the tradition? Here we’ve given the classic New England lobster roll a makeover with Gulf shrimp, crawfish tails, and Cajun seasoning. Combined into a delectable seafood salad and stuffed inside a buttery hoagie, these portable delicacies make great boat food or an easy, any-time meal. SHRIMP AND CRAWFISH ROLL MAKES 4 SERVINGS 1 pound medium cooked shrimp, peeled and deveined 1 pound crawfish tail meat, drained 2 green onions, chopped 1 stalk celery, finely chopped 3 tablespoons mayonnaise ½ teaspoon lemon zest 1…

Whether for convenience or comfort, Louisianians have a penchant for soup. When the envie strikes, we pull out our favorite Dutch oven and get to task. Here we have taken some of the boldest spring flavors, ranging from a decadent potato and leek soup to a light shrimp, tomato, and kale soup. Whatever the occasion, treat yourself and your family to some hot, delicious goodness. CREAMY NEW POTATO AND LEEK SOUP MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup chopped yellow onion 2 leeks, sliced 1/4-inch thick 3 cloves garlic, minced ¼ cup all-purpose flour 2 (32-ounce) containers vegetable broth 1 cup half-and-half 3 pounds new potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch chunks 1 tablespoon minced fresh dill 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives 1 tablespoon minced fresh…

Louisiana’s springtime bounty is a joy for cooks and those who love to entertain at home. The abundance of winter citrus gives way to plump strawberries, and green gardens reward even the most casual gardener. Crawfish can steal the spotlight, but there are plenty of opportunities throughout the season to set a decadent brunch. Savory waffles topped with poached eggs and tasso hollandaise make this one of our new favorites. SHRIMP AND TASSO SOUP MAKES ABOUT 8 SERVINGS 3 quarts water 2 tablespoons salt, divided 1 lemon 1 bay leaf 1 dried red pepper 3 cups white wine, divided 2 pounds large fresh shrimp 8 ounces tasso ham, finely diced 2 tablespoons olive oil 1½ cups diced onion 1 cup diced carrot 1 cup diced celery 1 cup diced green…

THE RIGHT SAUCE can make a good dish great, and 2012 Chef to Watch Lindsay Mason, of Cristiano Ristorante in Houma, Louisiana, has been perfecting his techniques and flavor combinations for years. He approaches sauces like an artist, considering the color, texture, and composition, along with the flavor profile and season. With a little creative thinking and practice, you too can create sauces that are as pleasing to the eye as they are dazzling to the palate. Q What are some of the essential sauces for South Louisiana cooking? The classic sauces, the ones derived from French cuisine, are used in a lot of Creole cooking, sauces like hollandaise, bechamel, espagnole (brown sauce), and demiglace. I tend to use espagnole and demiglace-based sauces in my cooking. They’re meat-flavored and help…

THERE IS A MUSTARD MUSEUM. Really. It’s in Middleton, Wisconsin, and holds more than 5,600 mustards from all 50 states. Tucked into the museum’s extensive collection is Louisiana’s entry: Creole mustard. Creole mustard was said to have been introduced to New Orleans’s Zatarain family by a German door-to-door salesman and believed to have been first manufactured on Chartres Street. A beloved condiment for sandwiches and a charcuterie board imperative, there are modern incarnations that, well, cut the mustard. St. Martinville, Louisiana’s Mary Patout is the creator of the addictive Mary Mary Markets Sprouted Mustard. Originally developed for Chef Manny Augello of Bread & Circus Provisions in Lafayette, the mustard generated a cult following at the restaurant as well as with customers who bought it from Lafayette’s Market at the Horse…

WHERE CREOLE MEETS FARMLAND For centuries, the Northshore has been a relaxing vacation retreat with its picturesque lakefront and moss-draped live oaks. The area’s farmers and fishermen have always been closely connected with nearby chefs, and lately have expanded their offerings. Area restaurants and markets offer fresh, free-range pork and duck from family-run farms such as Chappapeela Farms. Chappapeela’s sister farm, Covey Rise, has partnered with area chefs to produce dozens of specialty and heirloom fruits and vegetables, keeping Northshore restaurants on the cutting edge of flavor. Meanwhile in Lake Pontchartrain, fishermen, shrimpers and oystermen harvest the fresh seafood that diners demand. From beautiful chef-driven seafood dishes at Oxlot 9 and Del Porto Ristorante to Oysters Ooh La La at La Provence, seafood lovers will be right at home. CHEF…

MARCH 7-8 Los Isleños Fiesta St. Bernard losislenos.org 13-15 Black Heritage Festival Lake Charles bhflc.org 20-22 Annual Audubon Pilgrimage St. Francisville audubonpilgrimage.info 20-22 Amite Oyster Festival Amite amiteoysterfestival.com 21 Battle of the Gumbo Gladiators Cook-Off Shreveport gumbogladiators.com 27-28 Smokin’ BBQ Challenge Hammond hammondbbq.com 27-28 Hogs for the Cause New Orleans hogsforthecause.org APRIL 9-12 French Quarter Festival New Orleans fqfi.org 10-12 Ponchatoula Strawberry Festival Ponchatoula lastrawberryfestival.com 10-12 Downtown Lake Charles Crawfish Festival Lake Charles downtowncrawfest.com 10-12 Scott Boudin Festival Scott laboudinfestival.com 11-13 Cajun Hot Sauce Festival New Iberia iberiatravel.com/events/cajun-hot-sauce-festival-0 16-19 Washington Catfish Festival Washington cajuntravel.com 22-26 Festival International de Louisiane Lafayette festivalinternational.org 24-26 Étouffée Festival Arnaudville cajuntravel.com 24-May 3 New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival New Orleans nojazzfest.com…

IN THE TOWN OF LACOMBE, on the bucolic Northshore of Lake Pontchartrain, visitors with a mind for brunch often make their way to John Besh’s La Provence. There, they are treated to a wondrous menu inspired by the French countryside and products from the restaurant’s vibrant garden. No less intriguing, though, are the seasonal cocktails, which along with the diners’ company, will make the meal a memorable one. LAKESIDE SIP MAKES 1 SERVING Recipe courtesy of La Provence, Lacombe, Louisiana 1 ½ ounces Beefeater gin Squeeze of lemon 4 teaspoons Rosemary Syrup, recipe follows Garnishes: rosemary sprig, lemon slice 1. In a cocktail shaker, combine gin, lemon, and Rosemary Syrup. Fill with ice, cover, and shake until cold. Strain into an ice-filled Collins glass, and garnish with lemon and rosemary,…