Innholdsfortegnelse for No. 45 - September 2024 i L'OFFICIEL USA

Metallic beads shimmer under silver lamps, throwing their light onto sculpted muslin. Bandage dresses are slit open, displaying velvet mannequin napes. A hooded jersey dress, in terracotta acetate, reveals thin, ribbed fabric scars, if you look closely enough. It’s September 2013—the first major museum installation of designer Azzedine Alaïa’s work, held at Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris’ Palais Galliera. “A retrospective is always a great honor, especially when it takes place during your lifetime,” Alaïa said at the time. But the past has a way of yoking us to its prow. He begins to talk of his desire to create a foundation—one to show-case his frequently rumored, never-seen fashion archive, begun in 1968. Dropped names include Balenciaga, Schiaparelli, and Madame Grès, among many others. To an…

L’AUTHORITY Walking into a new season invites a longing for reinvention. The imminent thrill of embracing new trends fuses with an eagerness for rediscovering those forgotten styles that have been patiently resting in the back of our closets for months, perhaps years. While the Fall/Winter 2024 runways saw no shortage of novel statement footwear creations, many designers instead opted to revisit a trusted staple: the riding boot. From Dior and Fendi’s over-the-knee renditions to Saint Laurent’s and Burberry’s harnessed reinterpretations, riding boots got off their high horse—pun intended—and immersed themselves in a more modern feeling, blending a fidelity to heritage with a touch of street-worthy flair. Over at Gucci, a contemporary take on riding boots, dressed in muted fall tones, echoes the house’s historic connection to the equestrian world. Embodying…

The saying Give a woman a red lipstick and she can conquer the world exists for a reason. A red lip exudes mystique and confidence, and never goes out of style. With its highly anticipated makeup launch this October, Celine Beauté makes a statement as bold as a red lip. The first and only product in the drop? A classic red lipstick. Timeless, effortlessly chic, and utterly French, Rouge Triomphe—a title perfectly befitting the symbolic product at the center of the maison’s latest launch—draws on the luxury label’s roots as a purveyor of all things elegant and unquestionably alluring. Infused with Image Director Hedi Slimane’s innovative vision, the luxurious satin red lipstick marks a bold beginning. Formulated in a quintessentially French shade of crimson, Rouge Triomphe is a luxurious, long-wearing,…

Working in fashion requires irrepressible, unquenchable passion. And building a fashion archive requires all that plus patience, top-notch organizational skills, and exhausting research. After working alongside Phoebe Philo at Chloé, at Loewe with Jonathan Anderson, at Miu Miu, and at Louis Vuitton, Argentinian designer Adrian Appiolaza became Creative Director of Moschino last January. His first collection launched in February in Milan, offering a modern take on the notoriously campy house. On the runway, models carried baguettes or tote bags covered in bright yellow smiley faces. Carla Sozzani, the grand dame of fashion—journalist, editor, art gallery owner, collector, and founder of 10 Corso Como—shares a fondness for fashion history with Appiolaza. Throughout their careers, both have built sprawling personal fashion archives (with numbers in the thousands) that they hold dear. The…

At his debut runway show for Alexander McQueen, Creative Director Seán McGirr told the fashion journalist Suzy Menkes backstage that he had been thinking about compression for Fall 2024. Compressed silhouettes, sculptures that were doing the same thing; body wrapping and body contortion. “Objects embedded and enveloped,” explained the show notes. On the runway, this concept played out as impactful, rolling quadruple collar jumpers in black and ivory hand-knitted wool, chunky and solid; and hooded funnel-neck jumpers in brown and blue acid–dyed hand-knit wool. Shapes were brilliantly bulbous, described as “knitted statuary.” Or what the fashion world is now calling “mega knits.” Mega knits were also seen at Sacai, Stella McCartney, Gabriela Hearst, JW Anderson, Duran Lantink, and in the recent Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda collections, where scale, size,…

Ariana Greenblatt’s life changed forever last summer with Greta Gerwig’s Barbie. In the Oscar-winning cultural phenomenon, Greenblatt played Sasha, a teenager who (reluctantly) accompanies her mother (America Ferrera) and Barbie (Margot Robbie) to Barbieland. Wearing her dad’s vintage Madonna T-shirt over Zoom, Greenblatt recalls the dramatic shift in her approach to roles since the film’s release. “It was such a Truman Show out-of-body experience that made me feel really uncomfortable and weird for a while,” she recalls. “My life is so different now, and it happened so fast and I don’t know how I did it.” In August, Greenblatt stars opposite Cate Blanchett, Kevin Hart, and Jamie Lee Curtis in Eli Roth’s Borderlands, a spinoff of the video game series. Greenblatt plays Tiny Tina, a bombastic, confident, chatty teen who…

It’s been a decade since the fashion press was greeted by a deep, reverberating gong beckoning them to the Louvre’s Cour Carrée for Nicolas Ghesquière’s first runway show as artistic director of Louis Vuitton. At the time, Ghesquière was coming off a wildly impactful and critically acclaimed 15-year run as Balenciaga’s creative director, a role that solidified his status as a fashion world darling and earned him a reputation as his generation’s most original designer. Successfully stepping into the shoes vacated by American designer Marc Jacobs wasn’t always a given. Jacobs was, after all, the first-ever ready-to-wear creative director at Louis Vuitton, one who had invented an entirely new, fantastical design language with an emphasis on dramatic sets. But Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton was destined to be quint-essentially French. Those lucky…

Designers break new ground this fall while prioritizing their sense of self. In her debut collection for Chloé, Creative Director Chemena Kamali sparked the return of boho-chic, a trend we explore from its 1970s-era (The Return of Flou, page origins to its early-aughts heyday to its current renaissance 78). Supermodel Sasha Pivovarova wears Chloé and McQueen by Seán McGirr in Creature Comforts, a deep dive into this season’s runway collections that give quintessential fall classics a 2024 refresh. Elsewhere, Moschino’s new Creative Director Adrian Appiolaza connects with 10 Corso Como founder Carla Sozzani to reflect on his whirlwind year at fashion’s most playful house. This season is all about what makes women feel most at ease. The perpetually chic double-breasted pea coat is back (Peak Pea, page 100). Wrapping up…

MODEL: Nabou Thiam WOMEN MILANO HAIR: Erisson Musella BLEND MANAGEMENT MAKEUP: Francesca Rezzola BLEND MANAGEMENT PHOTO ASSISTANT: Erika Buzin LIGHTING ASSISTANT: Andrea Murelli STYLING ASSISTANT: Giorgia Di Paolo…

Grecale Folgore is the first full-electric SUV in Maserati’s history. Striking a balance between sportiness and elegance, Grecale Folgore embodies the concepts of innovation, versatility, luxury, and performance. Its exclusive Dark Aurora color is available as part of the Maserati Fuoriserie customization program.…

Fashion is notoriously self-serious. What do you expect from a group of people in the business of legislating outward appearances? In the 2020s, the industry seems to have dropped its infamous judgmental attitude and decided instead to show off a killer sense of humor. In the face of a bleak prognosis for planet Earth, fashion has, conversely, become increasingly light-hearted. In response to a pandemic, wars, civil upheaval, economic uncertainty, the collapse of democracy, and impending climate catastrophe, brands are abandoning the self-serious charade and leaning into maximalist absurdity, poking fun at the industry’s legendary put-on airs. This is an unsurprising response, according to Steff Yotka, director of content for the luxury e-commerce site and social media juggernaut Ssense. “Fashion always gets more surreal and more comedic during moments of…

Emily Adams Bode Aujla gleefully holds up a pile of yellowed vintage magazines to the Zoom camera. Emblazoned with black-and-white photos of former president John F. Kennedy, they’re the latest thrifted treasures for her collection of ephemera. Bode Aujla, 35, has built her namesake fashion label by weaving together both figurative and literal scraps of the past. These latest bits of inspiration could eventually lead to a print, a coat, or even an entire collection. Since launching her menswear brand in 2016, Bode Aujla has sourced antique fabrics and crafted sartorial stories around 100-year-old college traditions and old-money estates. Her earliest quilt jackets, sewn from collected antique blankets, remain core to the Bode aesthetic. Years into the business, the designer is finding ways to expand the brand’s wheelhouse. What’s new…

L’MOOD MODEL: Branda Zeng PARTS MODELS PRODUCED BY: Chance Jarvis JONES MGMT DIGITAL TECH: Christopher Linn…

MODEL: Sasha Pivovarova  CASTING: David Chen  HAIR: Tuan Anh Tran MAKEUP: Ren Nobuko  MANICURIST: Elina Ogawa CREATIVE CONSULTANT: Mariana Suplicy PRODUCED BY: Danielle Ellsworth  DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY: Grayson Kohs PHOTO ASSISTANTS: Alan Padilla, Luke Nilsson, and Paigge Warton STYLING ASSISTANTS: Madeline Manning and Shannon Diederich…

The Chloé Girl is back, baby. At her Fall 2024 debut during Paris Fashion Week in February, Chloé’s new Creative Director Chemena Kamali laid down the gauntlet in her show notes. “I want to feel her presence again; her beat, her natural beauty, her sense of freedom and undone-ness.” Sienna Miller, an aughts and early-teens avatar of boho-chic, sat front row in Kamali’s lace-trimmed silk crêpe de chine slip dress and towering wedge sandals. And it was a homecoming of sorts for Kamali herself: She was first an intern and then a design assistant under Phoebe Philo, and later, design director under Clare Waight Keller, before becoming womenswear design director under Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent. But if you thought this would be a redux of the recent fashion past…

MODEL: Zoe Louis FORD MODELS CASTING: Onell Ednacot HAIR: Juli Akaneya SOUTH JAMES AGENCY using ORIBE MAKEUP: Ai Yokomizo  PHOTO ASSISTANT: Tugcan S Temizkan LIGHTING ASSISTANT: Karen Goss  STYLING ASSISTANT: Eva Megannety…

Jenny Slate essentially lives in an archive. Her cozy, rural Massachusetts home—which includes a writing cabin—is the same house her husband, Ben, grew up in until he was about 8 years old. Now, Slate is creating new memories (and a new generation) with Ben and their daughter, Ida, age 3. Slate easily connects with objects and can find joy and immense depth in anything, from a wall to a seashell. Slate’s new book, Lifeform, published by Little, Brown and Company and out October 22, is an unconventional, soulful, genre-bending memoir that documents her psyche throughout motherhood. “I was interested in some sort of containment of a state of feeling, an emotional situation or an emotional scenario or an emotional weather system or something like that,” she says. Slate tries to…