Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue Ten i JRNY Travel Magazine

Canada. A country so big, so rich it seems wasted on the casual visitor, begging – no, demanding – to be explored in depth. Delivering diverse landscapes, vibrant culture and wild experiences that resonate deeply with travellers, from Indigenous traditions to cosmopolitan cities, Canada offers real connection to nature, to history and to the now. A country of contrasts, its vast wilderness provides opportunities for intimate, memory-making wildlife encounters and rugged outdoor activities, while its vibrant urban centres showcase art, innovation and world-class cuisine. At Steppes Travel, we craft tailor-made journeys that delve deep into those contrasts. Our clients explore the craggy coastlines, discover tranquil lakes, and experience the changing seasons across forests and mountains. They stare open-mouthed at the incredible flora and fauna, forge deep bonds and friendships with…

At the Snowking Winter Festival held annually in Yellowknife, in the Northwest Territories, ice is everywhere. It’s underfoot as you stand on the frozen Great Slave Lake, it’s carved into decorative sculptures, and it’s used to build a glittering snow castle. The effect is quite magical, as the sun sets and the blinding white snow shifts into shades of moody blue. For a month at the end of every winter, entertainers including actors, musicians and comedians transform Yellowknife Bay into an outdoor stage. However, Mother Nature won't be upstaged and gives almost guaranteed aurora shows each night. The festival, now in its 30th year, celebrates northern living by encouraging everyone to get outside to enjoy the season. I headed north not just for the festival but also for some winter…

“Three thousand of our people lie buried under those lava flows,” says Gary, as he draws heavily on a cigarette. Its cherry flares like the core of a brooding volcano, a brief surge of ember red that mirrors the Earth’s hidden fire. (The history books say it was closer to 2,000 people that were killed in the deadliest volcanic eruption Canada has ever seen, but I know better than to question oral tradition and generational trauma.) Gary has just pulled up beside me, at the entrance of the Nisg̱a’a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park, casually climbing out of his hulking purple pickup truck to stretch his legs, hitch up his blue jeans, and smoke. My back straightens a little at his arrival. I’m a tourist in these lands and, when…

I'VE STOCKED UP WITH SASKATCHEWAN'S BEST LOCAL PROVISIONS, BUT FAILED TO BRING A PAPER MAP I should have spent more time consulting maps than planning menus. Cell service is spotty and I’m not sure if we’re on the right track to Val Marie, the small town closest to the West Block of Grasslands National Park, where we’ll be camping for the next two days. We need more ice for our cooler and fairly urgent use of the facilities. I’ve invited my friends Annie and Kelley on this trip to thank them for their unwavering support of my ventures as a chef and culinary consultant. Last summer, they spent a whole week as pilot participants in my Field to Shield culinary tour of Saskatchewan. I want this journey, to a place…

It is with a sense of innocence and wonder that I arrive on the Kingston Peninsula, hidden between the Saint John and Kennebecasis rivers in New Brunswick. This rugged forested peninsula is encircled by snug harbours with clinking boats, and home to welcoming, laid-back locals – the kind of place with people whose families have lived there for generations, as well as artists and other creatives who have escaped the big city for stimulus, inspiration and space. Just one bumpy road runs around the whole peninsula, with three ferries crossing the water to the east and south. I begin my visit deep within the 40 acres of forest at La Belle Cabane, a 100% Indigenous-owned forest sanctuary spa resort that is certified through the Canadian Council of Aboriginal Business. To…

How do you kiss a codfish properly? It sounds like a ridiculous question, but I’m in a crowded bar on heaving George Street and about to find out, whether I really want to or not. Pub landlady Aunt Luce, in a plastic yellow sou’wester, is delivering a strangely staged history lesson with a brittle twang about the importance of the fish to Newfoundlanders. Between wisecracks, she lifts up the weighty, frozen North Atlantic cod with both hands, its silvery scales catching the glow from the scalloped lights hooked above the bar. The greasy cod lips gleam. If any of this seems weird, well, just wait until you hear the rest of it. Yes, you need to pucker up, Aunt Luce tells me. No, you don’t need to keep your eyes…

In the middle of the wilderness and in the centre of culture at the same time – this is how visitors to Manitoba feel. The experiences are wild, breathtaking and limitless. This province in the centre of Canada offers many opportunities for people looking for adventure, to get off-the-beaten-track or to have a heart-stirring experience. Manitoba knows the longing for travel is felt in the heart. Whether your heart needs quiet or it needs to race, sing or reflect, Canada’s heart is calling. Visit Churchill to walk with polar bears, paddle with belugas or dance with the northern lights. Explore downtown Winnipeg to see iconic galleries and museums, and to enjoy great restaurants and food halls. Experience warm hospitality, iconic attractions and deep connections with Indigenous history and culture. Manitoba…

Searching for narwhals is a surreal concept. It’s almost like saying, “Hey, let’s go look for centaurs!” or “I want to meet Bigfoot!”. Although narwhals are real, they’re not just named the “unicorns of the sea” because of their famous tusks; they’re so elusive, they may as well be mythical. One of our crew on board the SH Vega, Andy Wenzel, has been an expedition guide for 30 years and never seen one. But our guide Marissa Idlout, an Inuit native of Pond Inlet here in Nunavut – the easternmost, northernmost and largest territory in Canada – is sure that conditions are right for a sighting. The Arctic wind tugs at my bobble hat and whips the dark blue flag of the Swan Hellenic livery from side to side. Fine…