Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2019 - February 2020 i International Traveller

The approach of a new year is like a reset button when it comes to travel. Instead of facing an ending, and with it the prospect of running out of time to fit in a journey here or whistlestop there, a crisp new calendar allows time for endless new adventures. All you have to do is fill it with possibilities. And that’s where we can help you. In this issue we have gathered together a year’s worth of inspiration: the countries, cities and experiences both near and far we believe will best sate the appetite of even the most hungry of travellers. From the unaffected, dramatic beauty of the Faroe Islands (page 112) to the compelling ghost villages of Chernobyl and its surrounds (page 72) to the delights of France’s…

Until 13 January SPITZMAUS MUMMY IN A COFFIN AND OTHER TREASURES MILAN, ITALY HEAD TO FONDAZIONE PRADA TO EXPLORE A CURIOUS CURATION OF HISTORICAL ARTEFACTS HAND-PICKED BY FILMMAKER WES ANDERSON AND HIS WIFE AND COLLABORATOR JUMAN MALOUF FROM THE COLLECTIONS OF VIENNA’S KUNSTHISTORISCHES AND NATURHISTORISCHES MUSEUMS. ANDERSON FANS CAN ALSO DROP INTO BAR LUCE, THE MID-CENTURY-INSPIRED CAFE HE DESIGNED AT THE MILAN CULTURAL COMPLEX COMPLETE WITH CANDY COLOURS AND FORMICA FURNITURE. FONDAZIONEPRADA.ORG Until 29 March DISNEY: MAGIC OF ANIMATION SINGAPORE THIS LANDMARK EXHIBITION AT MARINA BAY SANDS RESORT, CO-PRODUCED BY SPACELOGIC, SHOWCASES 90 YEARS OF DISNEY ANIMATION THROUGH MORE THAN 500 ART PIECES INCLUDING ORIGINAL DRAWINGS, PAINTINGS AND SKETCHES, AS WELL AS INTERACTIVE FUN.MARINABAYSANDS.COM Until 19 January INTO THE NIGHT: CABARETS AND CLUBS IN MODERN ART LONDON, UK Hang out…

THE IT VERDICT An in-the-know restaurant (with rooms) for clued-up travellers looking to experience the chic, bohemian side of Essaouira. LOCATION: 7/10 In the middle of a deserted beach, it’s isolated but that’s the point; it’s a spot to get away from it all. STYLE/CHARACTER: 9/10 Everything from the lamps to the lounges has been curated and sourced by local artisans and the result feels like a creative hideaway. SERVICE: 8/10 Friendly and helpful. This is laid-back beachside dining at its best. FOOD AND DRINK: 9/10 The French/Moroccan-inspired menu is anchored to market-fresh produce, just-caught seafood and zesty salads, all of which are a slam-dunk. The Moroccan wine list is a great touch. VALUE FOR MONEY: 7/10 This isn’t dirt cheap or extravagant; expect to spend about $50–$70 (including drinks),…

1 IN NEUTRAL World Expeditions has long led the way in sustainable travel practices, but it has now expanded its carbon-neutral initiatives to include its entire range of itineraries, with the company absorbing the cost of credits to offset emissions on each and every journey. worldexpeditions.com 2 NURSERY TIMES The effort to regenerate the Great Barrier Reef after recent coral bleachings just cranked up a notch with the doubling in size of Reef Restoration Foundation’s ocean-based coral nursery, thanks to a grant from 100 per cent carbon-neutral energy company, Powershop. You can volunteer to help at reefrestorationfoundation.org 3 SURVIVAL INSTINCTS Crooked Compass specialises in individual and sustainable experiences, but its latest offering is a rare privilege: accompanying the Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation (BOS) to release re-habituated orang-utan into the jungles…

It’s taken me 26 hours to arrive in Geneva and, in my delirious, jetlagged state, I’ve found myself in a lush, secret parkland overlooking Lake Geneva. Perhaps secret isn’t the right word. All the locals seem to know about Mon Repos Conservation Park. Countless groups of families and friends are enjoying picnics under the canopies of centuries-old trees. Children run through sprinklers in the small waterpark as their parents watch on; others have set up their own barbecues on the lawn and the delicious scent of chargrilled steak fills the air. It is an unexpected welcome to the Swiss city that is better known as an epicentre for political negotiations and it has inspired me to spend my next 48 hours uncovering an alternative version of Geneva. EARTH YOURSELF With…

GETTING THERE Qatar Airways flies to Kiev via Doha from most capital cities. qatarairways.com TOURING THERE CHERNOBYL TOUR operates a range of tours daily, departing from Kiev Railway Station. The company takes care of the administration required to visit the Exclusion Zone; you will need to take your passport with you. chernobyl-tour.com/english DRESSING THERE You must wear closed shoes, long sleeves and pants to gain access to the Exclusion Zone.Take insect repellent and enough food and water for the day. TALKING THERE Try practising these Ukrainian phrases ahead of your journey: Vitayu – Hello Do pobačennja – Goodbye Dobroho ranku – Good morning Dobroho večora – Good evening Pereprošuju – Excuse me Diakuju – Thank you Tak – Yes Hi – No Harnoho dnja – Have a nice day Vy…

GETTING THERE ANA operates daily flights from Haneda Airport (Tokyo) to Memanbetsu, the closest airport to Shiretoko National Park. DRIVING THERE Shiretoko National Park is about 100 kilometres east of Memanbetsu and Utoro and, although bus services operate, the best way to get around is by car; rental outlets are available at the airport. You’ll need an International Driving Permit to rent a car and drive in Japan. PLAYING THERE Utoro-based operator Shinra Nature Tour offers both ‘green season’ and winter nature tours, including the Shiretoko Goko Lakes walk, salmon run-up watching, boat trips and drift ice expeditions. shinrashiretoko. wixsite.com/shinra STAYING THERE Recently renovated Kiki Shiretoko Natural Resort is a large-scale hotel in Utoro that captures the essence of its surrounding environment in the considered design of its common spaces.…

GETTING THERE Etihad flies to Jordan’s capital city Amman via Abu Dhabi from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne. etihad.com STAYING THERE Based in Amman’s cultural hub of Jabal al-Weibdeh, LA LOCANDA BOUTIQUE HOTEL has 14 rooms each designed in tribute to a different Arabic musician, including influential Lebanese singer Fairuz. On the ground floor of the property, you’ll find MAESTRO MUSIC BAR & RESTAURANT – a hotspot for live music in the city. locandahotel.com There are plenty of desert camps to choose from in Wadi Rum. SUN CITY CAMP offers the choice of spending the night in either a traditional Bedouin-style tent or a Martian Dome that will see you stargazing from bed. suncitycamp.com MA’IN HOT SPRINGS RESORT & SPA is hidden like an oasis in the rugged mountains above the…

It’s almost impossible to have a bad meal in South Korea, and in Seoul more specifically. The food here is full of intricate flavours and is extremely good for you, packed as it is with vegetables, rice, pickles and lean meat. Koreans do have a sweet tooth, but even their sugary treats are brilliantly executed. Whether heading to one of the numerous behemoth markets scattered around Seoul or into any of the inner-city neighbourhoods that are so fun to explore, there are endless choices when it comes to what to eat, but these are some of the dishes you should definitely not miss. BIBIMBAP – With a name that translates loosely to mixing with rice, this Korean staple can be found everywhere from restaurants to food halls to markets. It…

You could spend weeks exploring the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region, but short distances between towns and excellent roads mean that a lot can be seen in just a few days. If you plan to linger, consider adding Parc Naturel Régional du Morvan to your itinerary. This mountainous massif covers more than 285,000 hectares, with lakes and waterfalls and well-marked hiking trails through old-growth forest. You’ll find twee guesthouses and restaurants throughout, where dishes shine a spotlight on regional delicacies including delicious honey and wild bilberries. West of the park, explore more postcard-perfect towns that lend their names to wine appellations, like Vézelay and Chablis, and for a stay rich in history and luxury, check into five-star La Borde, set in verdant grounds on a centuries-old estate.…

It’s the height of the summer holiday season and the charming Scottish village of Braemar, nestled in the breathtaking surrounds of the Cairngorms National Park, is buzzing with visitors. It could be assumed that the close proximity of Balmoral Castle, the Queen’s Scottish residence where she retreats for her summer holidays each year, is responsible for the influx of daytrippers, but of late there has been a decidely more funky (sorry Your Majesty) drawcard to these parts: The Fife Arms. Sitting in the heart of town overlooking the fast-flowing waters of the River Dee, the 46-room hotel is a serious study in design whimsy. The passion project of husband-and-wife Iwan and Manuela Wirth, the Swiss duo behind the hugely successful contemporary art gallery Hauser & Wirth, the interiors are filled,…

WHAT’S IT ALL ABOUT? This visual arts institution aims to be a progressive museum that reframes Southeast Asian art in a global context. National Gallery Singapore is spread across two historic national monuments, making it one of the Lion City’s most recognisable landmark buildings. The sprawling art museum is now a must-visit destination, with collections that celebrate some of Singapore’s most prominent local artists as well as those from around Southeast Asia and the rest of the globe. The gallery’s unique heritage and location ensures it will add to the ‘art and soul’ of the cityscape. nationalgallery.sg TOP SEVEN ... LIU KANG GALLERY Visit the gallery’s inaugural exhibit, Siapa Nama Kamu? Art in Singapore since the 19th Century housed in the City Hall Wing. ROOFTOP VIEWS The site-specific artworks on…

EAT OUT (A LOT) Copenhagen has been at the epicentre of culinary innovation since Noma stormed onto the scene. With a waiting list that stretches for months, there are plenty of other fine diners on offer, Geranium (pictured), Barr and 108 among them. Even its bakeries are gastronomic wonders: expect to queue at ex-Noma pastry chef Emil Glaser’s Juno. CROWN LAND BUILT IN THE EARLY 17TH CENTURY FOR KING CHRISTIAN IV, THE BEAUTIFULLY PRESERVED ROSENBORG PALACE IS FILLED WITH EVERYTHING FROM ART TO THE CROWN JEWELS. THE TOUR INCLUDES THE KING’S TOILET, WITH ITS IMPRESSIVE STUCCO CEILING AND BLUE-AND-WHITE TILED WALLS. KONGERNESSAMLING.DK/EN/ ROSENBORG MUMMIES & MARBLE FOUNDED BY CARLSBURG BREWER CARL JACOBSEN, ONE OF DENMARK’S GREATEST ARTS PATRONS, THE GLYPTOTEKET HOUSES MORE THAN 10,000 WORKS, MOST OF WHICH WERE GIFTED…

THE TOP 7 RESTAURANTS TO TRY IN LONDON RIGHT NOW There’s never been a better time to explore London’s food scene: from the boundary-defying fine diner to cool Thai, here are the restaurants to head to right now. SEARCH ‘DESTINATIONS’ FOR OUR LONDON GUIDE 9 UNMISSABLE THINGS TO DO IN HANOI From the colonial charm of the Old Quarter to the delectable street food begging to be devoured, Hanoi’s frenetic pace will leave you breathless and hungry for more. SEARCH ‘DESTINATIONS’ FOR OUR VIETNAM GUIDE THE BEST CELLAR DOORS IN QUEENSTOWN, NEW ZEALAND Adrenalin-packed adventures aside, New Zealand’s Central Otago wine region offers all the pinot noir action you need on a visit to Queenstown. SEE ‘DESTINATIONS’ FOR OUR NEW ZEALAND GUIDE WHERE TO FIND FRANCE’S MOST BEAUTIFUL CHÂTEAUX From…

HOW DIFFICULT IS IT TO DISTIL THE ESSENCE OF A DESTINATION SUCH AS MOROCCO INTO A FRAGRANCE? It can vary depending on the destination or experience – some are easier to capture than others. With Soleil du Maroc, for example, I specifically wanted to evoke the feeling of the sun rising over the Atlas Mountains; that moment at dawn when the rays start to extend over the desert but the city hasn’t fully woken up. Bottling that exact instance was a challenge. Ultimately, I’m not only looking to capture the smells, but to really interpret and translate the whole experience and the way it makes you feel in the moment. CAN YOU TAKE US THROUGH THE PROCESS OF DEVELOPING A SCENT? When I’m creating a new scent, I start with…

If appearances are everything in Hollywood, the Gold-Diggers hotel doesn’t know it. I arrive to find a nondescript black-and-green building on a stretch of gridlocked road. A garish (yet endearing) sign outside tells me this is indeed the Gold-Diggers hotel, but the exterior aesthetic is more shady-dive-bar-bordering-on-crime-den than boutique hotel. Using a pin code to get inside, the art-lined walls indicate that the austere exterior is but a ruse; inside is another story altogether. Like many Hollywood residents, Gold-Diggers is a slashie. It’s a recording studio, but also a bar, soundstage, live music venue and 11-room hotel. How very LA.The historic building’s colourful past adds some extra sizzle: the bar was once the domain of exotic dancers and the soundstage was used by legendary filmmaker Ed Wood in the 1950s.…

WHAT IS YOUR FIRST MEMORY OF TRAVELLING? I didn’t travel in an aeroplane or overseas until I was about 14 years old, when I went to Europe for a month with my sister and mum. WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT TRAVEL? Experiencing new cuisines and learning to cook in those countries. While travelling and gathering inspiration for my latest cookbook The Global Vegan, I did many cooking classes and tours so that I could learn about local ingredients and recipes. Having gained all these ideas and skills, I had fun in the kitchen fusing together recipes and ingredients from different parts of the world. WHERE ARE YOU GOING NEXT? I’m headed to Hawai‘i (1) with my sister for work. It’s been about six years since I last visited, and…

GETTING THERE Swiss International Air Lines (SWISS) flies from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth and Adelaide to Hong Kong (with codeshare partner Qantas) and onwards to Zurich with a connecting domestic flight to Geneva. swiss.com/ch/en STAYING THERE The four-star HOTEL N’VY is ideally situated in the heart of the city within walking distance of Lake Geneva. The modern hotel boldly fuses colour, technology and design to deliver a uniquely art-centric experience. Take advantage of the adjustable coloured mood lighting in its rooms, relax on the plush green velvet day lounge and admire the uniquely sculptured mirrors with gold embellishments. hotelnvygeneva.com/en PLAYING THERE Start your day with a tai chi class overlooking Lake Geneva at the BATHS OF PÂQUIS. The instructor will guide you through a range of meditative moves during the…

South Korea is known as the land of the morning calm, where a landscape of hulking green mountains bestows a tranquil natural beauty on the country. I am squeezed into a lift 117 storeys above the streets of Seoul and I am going nowhere. The ultra-polite young lift operator is subtly pushing the door button while keeping a poker face, probably hoping that the 75th time will work a treat, which it doesn’t. The apparent reason for the failure of the lift that at other times floats effortlessly up and down the spine of Lotte World Tower to its pinnacle at Seoul Sky, the tallest building in South Korea, is an approaching typhoon, deceptively bestowed with the rather jolly moniker of Lingling. The total shutdown a safety mechanism, like the…

When it comes to eating, the South Koreans could rightfully stake a claim to it being a national pastime. GETTING THERE Jetstar flies to Seoul (Incheon International Airport) three times a week from the Gold Coast. jetstar.com STAYING THERE Located in the buzzing shopping and cultural hub of Dongdaemon, the stylish five-star NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR SEOUL DONGDAEMUN HOTELS & RESIDENCES has 331 rooms boasting interesting neighbourhood views (I was fascinated by a dog having fun on the rooftop garden of a neighbouring residential building).There’s a rooftop bar and infinity pool, and it offers easy access to Dongdaemun Design Plaza and Dongdaemun Market. The NOVOTEL SUITES AMBASSADOR SEOUL YONGSAN is part of the impressive Seoul Dragon City, Asia’s first-ever lifestyle hotel-plex that also boasts a Grand Mercure and ibis Styles, plus a…

GETTING THERE Etihad flies from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane to Paris via Abu Dhabi. From Paris’s Charles de Gaulle airport, Rail Europe operates trains to Belfort via the capital’s Gare de Lyon, and trains from Dijon go to the airport via Lyon. etihad.com; raileurope.com.au DRIVING THERE There are a number of places to hire cars in Belfort. Try autoeurope.eu STAYING THERE Check into the centrally placed NOVOTEL ATRIA in Belfort. From here, it’s a short stroll into the historic heart of the city, and you can walk up to Auguste Bartholdi’s enormous lion. accorhotels.com GRAND HÔTEL DES BAINS in Salins les Bains’ historic old town is adjacent to the World Heritage-listed Saltworks and within easy reach of the city’s luxe spa. hotel-des-bains.fr There are only 18 rooms at MOULIN DES…

Scotland is littered with castles and palaces in various states of grandeur and ruin, but the chance to tour the Royal Family’s Scottish Highlands residence, Balmoral Castle (above), is a treat not to be missed. Prince Albert bought the Balmoral estate in Aberdeenshire in the mid-19th century and set about building a new castle to replace the existing one, which was considered too small for his family. The castle as it is known today was completed in 1856, and has been handed down through the family since Queen Victoria passed away. Each year Balmoral is opened to the public for a short few months (the dates for 2020 are 1 April to 2 August), during which time visitors can tour the lovely grounds and gardens, which were started under the…

WHERE IT IS? Mandala The Bay is located on the laid-back and breezy island of Nusa Lembongan, just off the coast of Bali. WHY WE LOVE IT The arresting murals daubed in vivid colour are the perfect foil for the more subdued chic of pastels in the five bedrooms, while everywhere you look there are statement pieces – earthy ceramics, art, lovingly worn kilims – that add to the relaxed, barefoot chic vibe throughout. WHAT TO BORROW Bold artworks in bright colours can seem a little intimidating, but the trick is to keep everything around them simple and understated to create the perfect balance.…

DAY ONE 9AM: Located in a block of flats, the BACKSTAGE CAFE is the best secret coffee place in Vilnius. It’s notoriously difficult to find so you may be the only tourist mixing it with the locals. Backstage Cafe was started in 2017 by a couple of coffee-loving photographers (and their dog) in their home studio. It has since been transformed into a hip, exposed-brick minimalist space that still manages to feel like home. 10AM: Meet on the steps of the Town Hall for the YELLOW VILNIUS FREE WALKING TOUR of the OLD TOWN . For the next two and a half hours immerse yourself in the colourful stories and tragic history of Vilnius told by young professional guides who proudly share their knowledge and hometown secret spots. Tours are…

QATAR Qatar appears to be in step with Abu Dhabi’s anti-Dubai imprint when it comes to avoiding over-development. Intrepid travellers will find a lot to love here, from French architect Jean Nouvel’s triumphant National Museum of Qatar in the capital of Doha to the sun-drenched beaches that line the Arabian Sea to a compelling desert culture that stretches back through the sands of time. Qataris pride themselves on their hospitality, which will be on show when the country hosts the FIFA World Cup in 2022. JAISALMER, INDIA The fort of Jaisalmer sits atop a sprawling hilltop like a giant sandcastle looming over ‘The Golden City’ in the Indian state of Rajasthan. Jaisalmer is a photographer’s dream, with the path to the royal palace in the main square built to receive…

My Geiger counter leaps from zero to .003 in a heartbeat. “It’s OK!” our guide, Helen, assures me. “This is a very low level of radiation!”The Geiger counters are handed out to the members of my tour and activated one by one. Helen assures us of the low radiation levels and explains that these counters, which hang around our necks, will beep as we approach radiation hotspots emitting higher-than-average levels. On 26 April 1986, Reactor No. 4 at the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant, located near the town of Pripyat in Ukraine (then part of the Soviet Union), exploded as a result of a flawed safety test. The resulting open-air reactor core fire released radioactive contamination into the atmosphere that spread over the then-USSR and Western Europe. The catastrophic event, one…

Hokkaido’s Ainu people, whose culture emerged around the 13th century, were traditionally hunter-gatherers who worshipped the natural world. When the Japanese government took control of Hokkaido (changing its name from Ezo, which conjured up images of a savage north) in the 19th century, it introduced the Hokkaido Former Aborigines Protection Act as part of a bid to modernise the country. This forced assimilation threatened to wipe out Ainu culture by prohibiting its people from practising their customs and using their language. Today, the Ainu population is estimated to be at least 12,300 and things don’t look so bleak: there has been a revival in Ainu culture and, in a step towards equality, a bill passed in April 2019 officially recognised the Ainu of Hokkaido as an indigenous people of Japan.…

Designed by renowned architect Ammar Khammash to inspire the feeling of the ancient caravanserai (roadside inns along major trade routes), Feynan Ecolodge is one of the most unique places you can stay in Jordan as well as its most environmentally sound. The first project in Jordan by Amman-based EcoHotels, its ethos is rooted in harmony with the local environment – the Dana Biosphere Reserve – and, as such, it’s completely off-grid: solar-powered and lit by locally produced candles at night. Revenue generated by the lodge helps conservation efforts and the protection of endangered species around the nature reserve, the country’s largest. In November, Feynan Ecolodge scooped a bounty of prizes at the World Responsible Tourism Awards: gold in the reducing carbon emissions category and best overall winner for its sustained…

From 26–28 April 2019, the pristine Faroe Islands effectively closed for maintenance, with 100 volunteers from a total of 25 countries arriving to help locals lay the foundations for a more sustainable future. The multinational maintenance crew, garnered from more than 3500 applications to the pilot scheme, worked on 10 popular sites across the islands, creating walkways in well-trodden areas, constructing viewpoints to help preserve nature and protect birdlife sanctuaries, rebuilding ancient cairns and putting up signs and posts to assist walkers. The ‘closed for maintenance, open for voluntourism’ project proved such a hit with locals and visitors alike (including the party on the last night), that it is going to be repeated in April 2020. If you are interested in getting your hands dirty and making a real difference…

One of the most fascinating things to explore when you visit Seoul is K-Culture. Known collectively as Hanryu, it refers to elements of Korean culture that have become something of a national obsession – and a worldwide phenomenon. It all started with the increasing international popularity of K-drama, an irresistibly melodramatic form of soap opera, and rise and rise of K-pop, a totally unique genre of music that sees pretty girls and even prettier boys pieced together into singing, dancing super groups pumping out earworm-worthy tunes accompanied by slickly produced video clips. Suddenly all things Korean were seriously cool. The national pastime of looking good, with both men and women slavishly following daily beauty routines that involve sheet masks, make-up and just-so hair (young girls ride the subway to work…

Wandering through the fairy-tale cove, all ferns and waterfalls springing from mossy caves, I begin to understand why some of France’s most creative minds have sought respite and inspiration in the Jura Mountains; Louis Vuitton and Victor Hugo among them. The landscape here is crisscrossed with hiking trails, all backdropped by dramatic limestone cliffs that are a haven for rare and endemic flora and fauna. It’s cool and quiet and the air smells sweet – like fresh rain and jasmine. I came to this part of the country, around 360 kilometres south-east of Paris, expecting Michelin-starred restaurants and award-winning wines – after all, monks have been crushing grapes in Burgundy since the reign of Charlemagne. And while there are vines aplenty on my three-day road trip, I also stumble upon…

THREE OF THE BEST URBAN HOTELS Brooklyn has been giving Manhattan a run for its money when it comes to hotel openings, but the imprint on this side of the water is a lot more cool. 1 HOTEL BROOKLYN BRIDGE Sitting on the waterfront at Brooklyn Bridge Park, this 194-room hotel boasts lofty communal spaces and serious eco credentials: there are hemp-blend mattresses in the rooms, a giant green wall in the lobby and its design is LEED-certified. THE WILLIAMSBURG HOTEL With its name spelt out in bricks down the length of the building, this 150-room North Brooklyn hotel (pictured above) is hard to miss. Visit for the sleek design inside and out (courtesy of UK architecture firm Michaelis Boyd), the stylish rooftop pool and the clever Water Tower Bar,…

UNTIL 5 JANUARY, LIM CHENG HOE: PAINTING SINGAPORE The late Singaporean artist was the leading watercolourist of his generation and this exhibition highlights his mastery of outdoor landscape painting. UNTIL 15 MARCH, SUDDENLY TURNING VISIBLE This exhibition presents art and architecture in Southeast Asia from the period between 1969 and 1989 alongside archives and newly commissioned works.…