Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2019 - November 2019 i International Traveller

WHERE IT IS: Freehand New York is located in the heart of the funky Flatiron District, in the former George Washington Hotel. WHY WE LOVE IT: While staying true to the historic bones of the building, design studio Roman and Williams has installed interiors that are at once vintage and modern, with bunk beds, murals, artworks (by Bard College students and alumni) and cosy communal spaces filled with retro pieces. WHAT TO BORROW: Blue is the perfect hero shade to use througout an interior as it works so well with wood, leather and neutral tones.…

KASBAH TAMADOT Set in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, this celestial hideaway combines traditional Moroccan design with contemporary features to capture the spirit and charm of Morocco without sparing any modern luxuries. Staffed with friendly local villagers, you’ll get the sense you’re staying at the home of a long-lost Moroccan relative for a comforting break away from the hustle and bustle. THE LODGE Perched high in the Swiss Alps, this mountain retreat in Verbier is the perfect year-round escape – come snow or sun. It boasts an indoor pool, indoor and outdoor hot tubs and a friendly team that include a spa therapist and Michelin-trained chefs. NECKER ISLAND SITTING ON ROUGHLY 30 HECTARES, NECKER ISLAND IS UNDENIABLY THE MOST IDYLLIC PLACE IN THE BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS. SINCE IT IS…

Set on a remote, private island in south-east Sulawesi, Indonesia, Wakatobi Resort promises guests exclusive access to more than 40 diving and snorkelling sites, all located within the surrounding UNESCO Marine Biosphere Reserve. The encasing waters nurture 500 species of reef-building corals, called home by an abundance of macro life, such as nudibranchs and robust ghost pipefish. And that’s not all – more than 2000 species of fish, and thousands more varieties of invertebrates dwell here, including rare treasures such as pygmy seahorses, exotic mandarinfish and 15 species of frogfish. Directly off the resort’s beach is the famous House Reef, which has earned the title of the world’s best shore dive. Its high species diversity and day-and-night accessibility make it a favourite with underwater photographers and marine-life enthusiasts. Snorkellers can…

Die-hard Disney fan or not, no trip to Paris is complete without a visit to Disneyland. It is, as they say, where Magic gets real. Die-hard Disney® fan or not, no trip to Paris is complete without a visit to Disneyland® Paris. It is, as they say, ‘where Magic gets real’. Just a short train ride* from the City of Love, you’ll find not one but two Disney parks, with more than 50 amazing attractions, spectacular shows and parades and unforgettable Disney Character Encounters. Be astonished as Disney stories magically come to life across five enchanting lands at Disneyland® Park. Wander whimsically through small-town middle America in Main Street, U.S.A.®; conquer the Wild West in Frontierland; rub shoulders with swashbuckling pirates at Adventureland; live your very own classic fairytales in…

Australians love Hawai‘i – according to the Hawai‘i Tourism Authority, over 324,000 of us visited the Aloha State of America in 2018. Many come to experience Waikiki and its world-famous beach, but in such a popular holiday destination, outdated and overpriced hotels and resorts are widespread. Like a waft of salty sea air, the Waikiki Beachcomber by Outrigger offers a fresh alternative on these overdeveloped shores. Doors officially reopened in April after a $35 million makeover, and Outrigger now describes the property as a ‘stylish lifestyle hotel … oasis amidst the energy of Kalakaua Avenue’ (one of the busiest thoroughfares in the tourist district). From street level, a giant escalator transports us to the lobby, where the design aesthetic is an appealing blend of beach culture meets aloha spirit: rattan…

Sunny bikini-clad days, balmy nights whizzing off to dinner on a scooter – that’s the island holiday dream, right? But Kate Fitzsimons knows how just a few risks can turn that dream into a nightmare; she learned the worst way. It’s 3am on 20 October 2012. Kate’s sister, 24-year-old Nicole Fitzsimons is returning from dinner with her boyfriend in Thailand on their rental scooter. It’s only a quick kilometre down the street, so they ride sans helmets. They’re turning into their hotel driveway when another speeding rider overtakes from the inside, crashing into the couple at 80 kilometres per hour. Her boyfriend survived, but Nicole lost her life just three hours later. For Kate and her family, everything changed forever. “Nicole was so safety conscious here in Australia,” says Kate.…

WHAT’S NEW IN 2020? “Fine dining, glamorous evening soirées and incredible entertainment from the likes of BBC Earth combine with some of the most dramatic scenery in the world on Holland America Line’s Koningsdam.”Dan Down, deputy editor, International Traveller magazine. No one knows the Great Land of Alaska better than Holland America Line. They’ve been bringing guests to this beautiful part of the world for more than 70 years, and 2020 is no different. Koningsdam’s premier season: Making her Alaska debut in 2020, Koningsdam offers a number of Pinnacle-class exclusives. Immerse yourself in Alaska in Concert by BBC Earth Experiences at her state-of-the-art World Stage, dine at Rudi’s Sel de Mer and Nami Sushi, and rock out to four decades of classic hits at the new Rolling Stone Rock Room.…

CULTURE WITH A ‘SEA’ The Louvre Abu Dhabi is taking to the water, with two culture-focused cruises set for 2020 in partnership with Ponant. The 10-day Cultural Jewels of the Adriatic itinerary sails from Athens to Venice in August, via ancient Greek and Roman cultural treasures. November’s nine-day Treasures of the Persian Gulf itinerary, meanwhile, sails Muscat to Dubai via Qatar, taking in architecture, the dhow (boat) builders of Sur and the Arabian ‘fjords’ of Khasab. Onboard cultural enrichment is levelling up in 2020. Silversea’s newest flagship, Silver Muse, will host David McAllister, artistic director of The Australian Ballet, this coming January, while MSC is launching a world-first ‘fine-art experience at sea’. The brand new MSC Grandiosa will include an immersive art/dining experience involving the 26-piece Edgar Degas exhibition, the…

Minatomirai This waterside area, full of shops, malls and promenades, is a natural location to base yourself on a day out in Yokohama. There is a seemingly endless list of landmarks and activities, from the modern YOKOHAMA MUSEUM OF ART and the fascinating Mitsubishi ‘Minatomirai’ Industrial Museum, through to the YOKOHAMA PORT MUSEUM and its spectacular sailing training ship, the triple-masted NIPPON MARU. The lofty LANDMARK TOWER is one of the tallest in Japan, making its 69th-floor observatory a great way to start your adventures in the city. A visit to the MANYO CLUB hot springs, on the other hand, is perfect for when you’re ready to slow it down.…

1 OSANBASHI INTERNATIONAL PASSENGER TERMINAL You needn’t go far to see the sights! A step off your ship and you’re among the pier’s architectural lines and ship-like timber decking. The passenger terminal’s roof forms a grassy park with a fabulous view of the city, and is a tourist destination in itself. 2 YAMASHITA PARK Stroll for five minutes to arrive at Japan’s first Western-style park, featuring a spectacular rose garden, and postcard-perfect fountains and statues. As popular with the locals as much as tourists, stop for a nature-gaze before making your way to nearby pancake bonanza, Eggs N Things. 3 YOKOHAMA RED BRICK WAREHOUSE Ten minutes by foot from the port, these lovingly restored red-brick beauties are unmissable. There are often festivals or events happening within, but all…

12 CAMBODIA’S ULTIMATE WILD RETREAT Designer Bill Bensley is a born storyteller – I have seen him hold a room full of travel industry insiders enthralled as he described the hotels and resorts he has designed from Luang Prabang to Bali. Indeed, he has said that storytelling in hospitality is his big thing. This seems obvious when you see the pristine beauty that forms the backdrop for his passion project, Shinta Mani Wild. The camp occupies 350 hectares of land on the southern border of Cambodia’s Cardamom National Forest, bought by Bensley and Cambodian businessman Sokoun Chanpreda (founder of the Shinta Mani Foundation), back in 2010 in order to protect it from the scourge of poaching, mining and logging. Meticulously planned out (Bensley and architect Prajak Thaijanthararak visited the concession…

One day I found myself in a city I’d never visited before, with a couple of big-ticket sites still to tick off. But betraying my hyper-active spirit and my job description, I never left my accommodation. But it was not sloth who was my master. Neither was the catalyst a Tyrolean ski resort nor an Indian Ocean over-water bungalow, but a big city ‘lifestyle’ hotel – a term that I previously thought was just oxymoronic marketing speak. For me, city hotels have always been mere crash-pads, a headquarters to fuel up on brekkie buffet in the AM; a comfy cocoon to schlep back to at an ungodly hour once the city has divulged all its enigma. But The Abu Dhabi Edition honey trapped me the moment the doors swung open.…

It’s always good to at least attempt a few words in the local language when travelling. With this in mind, kalimera (good morning) is one of the first words we learn in Greece, where we are cruising among the famed Greek Islands, heading for Crete (as part of APT’s 13-day Grecian Odyssey). The greeting is a pretty good icebreaker when greeting locals for the first time, and vice versa it seems. Our guide, Andreas Foundoulis, catches us unawares one morning, meeting us with a jovial “Calamari!” We fall for it, answering in the same way before realising the ruse. Crete is the largest of the Greek Islands, its rugged and varied terrain heavy with history and mythology (the Ideon Cave located on Mount Ida is celebrated as the birthplace of…

Ghostly bodies of sulphuric steam materialise in slo-mo and levitate above the lava field. White ground in one area warns walkers of a thin crust. A screen of mist rises from behind a hillside where fluorescent green moss clings to black earth like some worn-out rug. There are entirely bare slopes the colour of rust. At ‘big hot’ spring, Stóri hver, Inga whips out a lightweight tarp and we gather underneath for a communal steam bath. Tales of witches and trolls we’re told while guided on Laugavegur for four days of walking don’t seem far-fetched up in this otherworldly landscape of Iceland’s south highlands. The country’s most popular multiday hiking trail – considered by many as one of the world’s most beautiful – is a place of exaggerated features and…

Japan is a country of dazzling contrasts, from the high-energy pace of its vibrant cities to serene mountain-edged onsen towns brimming with beauty and history. The best way to explore this duality is by crafting your trip around both these experiences. Of course, you must bookend your tour in the fast-paced, neon-lit city of Tokyo, but to really understand Japanese culture, make the skip, hop and jump to beautiful Oita prefecture, which is renowned for its ancient samurai towns, enlivening onsen resorts and breathtaking natural scenery. This itinerary is the perfect snapshot of Japan’s inherent and unique balance. DAY ONE: ARRIVE IN TOKYO Tokyo is a wonderfully intense invasion of all your senses. Bright lights, incredible flavours and heady scents all compete for your attention above the frenetic buzz of…

WHAT’S NEW IN 2020? Discover the world’s most picturesque destinations in the style and comfort that can only be found aboard a private yacht. Small enough to venture to the more intimate, seldom-visited areas in the Mediterranean, Caribbean and Southeast Asia, yet large enough to offer every luxury, Star Clippers’ ships accommodate between 170 and 227 guests – creating an atmosphere of camaraderie and friendliness. In April and October 2020, Star Clippers will set sail to all-new destinations in Southeast Asia, introducing inaugural cruises from the island paradise of Koh Samui to the sun-soaked isles in the Gulf of Siam and Cambodia. Swim, snorkel and dive in marine-rich, crystal-clear waters, stroll dreamy beaches and view majestic limestone formations in the Gulf before heading to exotic Cambodia. Don’t miss the overnight…

The cruise industry’s offering of ‘bigger, better and shinier’ is not slowing down as we come into 2020. Close to home, Princess Cruises will bring their first MedallionClass™ ship, Ruby Princess, to our shores, delivering personalised guest experiences via innovative new technology. Further abroad Seabourn will take expedition cruising to new luxurious heights whilst new industry player, Virgin Voyages, is set to change the cruising landscape with Scarlet Lady. All of this innovation is excellent for the cruiser who has even more choice! With so much on offer, cruisers will need to lean more on specialist travel agents to navigate the complexity of cabins, ships, onboard offers, ancillary purchases and destinations to ensure they’re matched with their perfect cruise holiday every time. Adam Vance – General Manager, Sales & Marketing,…

1 SEE AUSTRALIA’S WILD SIDE (CARBON-FREE) Australia is a big, wide, brown land ripe for exploration, necessitating a set of dune-busting wheels to give you the freedom to explore it. We’re rightly obsessed with our 4WDs, but with the advent of powerful electric motors and batteries that enable 600-kilometre-plus ranges, it won’t be long before we needn’t leave a trail of exhaust behind us. Startup company Jaunt has spotted an opportunity and is retrofitting gorgeous classic Land Rovers with advanced electric drivetrains for people to go on road trips through Byron Bay and the Blue Mountains in New South Wales, and Daylesford in Victoria, with more destinations to follow. “One of the simplest reasons I want Jaunt to exist, is so I can drive through the bush and hear it.…

Wendy Wu Tours’ new luxe river vessel, the Victoria Mekong, is your four-star home for four nights on the brand new A Mekong Experience tour. Meet in exotic Saigon before criss-crossing the lazy Mekong Delta – a maze of rivers, canals and streams, home to floating markets, Khmer pagodas and rice-paddy villages – then arriving in Cambodia to explore the rich history of the capital and the abode of ancient gods at the Temples of Angkor. SAIGON Immerse yourself in this fast-paced metropolis. From the glitzy rooftop bars to the sobering Cu Chi Tunnels, Saigon is rapid-fire Vietnam at its most magnetic. PHNOM PENH Let Cambodia’s capital cast its spell, from the awe-inspiring glamour of the Silver Pagoda to the stark reality of the Tuol Sleng genocide museum and the…

When it comes to edge-of-forever vistas, they don’t get much more stunning than in Namibia. Situated on the southwestern coast of Africa, the country of over 2.3 million inhabitants is a vast patchwork of landscapes: the long coastal desert of the Namib; the central plains of unforgiving mountain ranges and sand-filled valleys; the haunting Kalahari Desert; and the surprising green of the Caprivi Strip and Kavango. Indeed, the national tourism board lists ‘the landscape’ as Namibia’s ‘defining national asset’. The country is also home to a diverse population of indigenous peoples, such as the San, more widely known as the Bushmen, and the striking Himba, who rub their skin and hair with red ochre, and who are pictured in the images by photographer Elise Hassey on these pages. And, then…

With more than 20 years’ experience leading gallant explorers through beguiling desert, glittering pyramids and medieval cities, On The Go Tours have earned their reputation as the experts of Egypt. On their King Ramses itinerary, escorted by an expert Egyptologist, you’ll uncover the Valley of the Kings, marvel at King Tut’s treasures and sail the River Nile, with extra time in 2020 to explore the new Grand Egyptian Museum and marvel at the relics of the ancient kingdom. CAIRO Discover the seat of the pharaohs and wander the backstreets of the bustling capital of modern-day Egypt. With countless historical treasures to unearth, from the Pyramids of Giza to the Sphinx and the Grand Egyptian Museum, Cairo is bursting at the seams with adventure. VALLEY OF THE KINGS AND LUXOR Lose…

History comes alive as you wander the streets of Athens, taking in the sights of this fascinating city. Visit the renowned Acropolis where, from its rocky hilltop setting, you can see the Parthenon, Erechtheum with its Porch of Maidens and the Temple of Athena Nike. Delight in the unparalleled views of the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Theatre of Dionysus and the Agora where the great philosopher Socrates taught. But the adventure doesn’t end here. Be whisked away on a high-speed ferry to the lesser-known isles of Greece, where you’re invited to slow down and savour the stunning landscapes, laid-back villages and undeniable vibrancy of this special corner of the world. From picturesque fishing villages to ancient sun-bleached ruins and blonde-sand beaches, Globus’s Greek Island Adventure will be the holiday-with-it-all…

Just outside the small-town quaintness of Stowe, Vermont, is a brazen, light-filled building that oozes fun vibes. Welcome to The Alchemist, the legendary Vermont craft brewery that is renowned for its Heady Topper IPA, regularly named one of the world’s best beers, and most of which is only available within 50 kilometres of where it is made. Inside, irreverent art is splashed around everywhere, beer cans are rotating on the conveyor belt to the sounds of blaring indie pop music, and folks of all ages are sampling the brews on tap. Even the visiting dogs have smiles on their faces. “Vermont is such a beautiful, easy, slow-living kind of place with good values. You eat and drink so well with all the local organic meat and produce, cream-top milk, artisanal…

Delve into New Zealand’s natural beauty and traditions; seek out its rugged landscapes and experience the myths of warrior legends on Inspiring Journeys’ The Long White Cloud itinerary. In 19 unhurried days, you’ll see more than most New Zealanders see of their own country in their lifetimes. From South Island gateway city CHRISTCHURCH, travel across the Canterbury Plains through the Southern Alps to arrive at the mighty FRANZ JOSEF GLACIER, where you can take a guided walk below its lofty snow-capped peaks. In action capital QUEENSTOWN, opt for a recharging massage or sit back and enjoy a peaceful cruise across Lake Wakatipu. Travel south along the shores of Lake Wakatipu to Te Anau before pressing on to MILFORD SOUND. Wake early to explore the startling beauty of the fjord’s sky-scraping…

A WALKING TOUR OF ZONA CENTRO Stroll the historic centre to see why San Miguel is recognised as one of Mexico’s pueblos mágicos. 1 EL JARDÍN Start at San Miguel de Allende’s central plaza and social heart, known as El Jardín, to get a feel for the city and watch everyday life play out; pull up a pew on a wrought-iron bench or sip coffee at one of the cafes that fringe the square in arcaded portales. 2 PARROQUIA DE SAN MIGUEL ARCÁNGEL Overlooking El Jardín, this is the city’s icon: a pink wedding cake of a church (opposite page) whose fairy-tale spires were designed by self-taught architect Zeferino Gutiérrez based on a postcard of a Belgian church. 3 MUSEO HISTÓRICO CASA DE ALLENDE Acquaint yourself with the history of…

Su Gologone, Sardinia Experience the tradition, drama and beauty of the Italian island of Sardinia from the rustic luxury of Su Gologone’s two new Country Suites. Utilising locally sourced materials and fabrics, linen and home decor items from owner Giovanna Palimodde’s Le Botteghe di Su Gologone collection, the rooms each boast a large bedroom and bathroom, a generous sitting room and private terrace complete with a daybed and outdoor tub. The rooms look out over the vegetable garden, which caters to the new restaurant, Orto. sugologone.it LE MEURICE, PARIS Part of The Dorchester Collection, Le Meurice has had a nip and tuck befitting a Parisian grand dame, transforming 29 rooms and suites including its headlining Belle Etoile penthouse suite. While the generous interiors throughout have been elevated to new levels…

There are some national parks that are in the essential-to-see-before-you-die category: Yosemite (USA), or Zhangjiajie National Forest Park (China), for example. And then, there’s Torres del Paine in Chile’s Patagonia region. Part of a vast wilderness area, it straddles the ice fields at the foot of the Andes and incorporates immense glaciers, clear turquoise lakes, expansive grasslands and forests, and a dramatic mountainscape so iconic, it probably already feels familiar to you from magazine pages such as these. The three famous, immense buttresses of rock, the park’s namesake Torres del Paine, are a pilgrimage for hikers the world over. Then there are the big cats, the largest flying animal on the planet and incredibly rare and unusual deer to be photographed. Dust off your boots and get packing! MUST-SEE SIGHTS…

1 YOUR TIME TO SHINE Sneakers are the perfect combination of function and form when it comes to travel, but how to keep them ‘fresh from the box’ white while out and about? Try this clever shoe shine kit, $16.95; tkmaxx.com.au 2 BOYS TO MEN Bondi brand Patricks’ high-performing men’s grooming products, including its AM1 Moisturizer, $135, contain no harmful chemicals, just natural ingredients and lots of science. patricks.com.au 3 IN THE BAG Say an emphatic ‘no’ to plastic when you head overseas by packing a funky fabric bag or two into your luggage, like this Marimekko stunner, $38. marimekko.com 4 SMART AND STYLISH Samsonite’s new Evoa TECH collection, from $679, features all the bells and whistles: fingerprint-activated locks, a built-in scale, Bluetooth tracking and USB port. All delivered in…

DAY ONE 9AM: Steps from the Seine, the Marais district in the 4th arrondissement is quite possibly the French capital’s hippest hangout. The streets are filled with designer boutiques, contemporary galleries and achingly cool bars. And then there’s the Place de Vosges, which has been called one of the most beautiful squares in the world. It’s here that you’ll find the grand hotel Le Pavillon de la Reine, set in an ivy-covered, 17th-century mansion, replete with a fairy-tale garden courtyard. Check into one of its 56 rooms and suites, each individually decorated with exposed wooden beams, bold fabrics, patterned wallpaper and gilded mirrors – some also come with marble fireplaces. 10AM: In the same district, legendary Poilâne has been hand-cutting cookies and kneading sourdough since 1932. Its apple tart is…

“I didn’t think I was a ‘cruise person’ until I sailed with Viking: its culturally rich itineraries and the distinctly un-cruise-ship-like interiors of its ocean fleet have left me a total convert.”Imogen Eveson, chief sub-editor, International Traveller magazine. WHAT’S NEW IN 2020? Next year is set to be a big one for Viking, with a number of the company’s brand-new ocean-cruise itineraries setting sail in 2020. 2020–2021 Viking World Cruise: Sail from Miami to London on this epic 161-day journey across the globe, calling on 33 different countries and visiting 75 of the world’s most notable cities, including Los Angeles, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Istanbul, Rome and Barcelona. Australia, Indonesia & Asia: This exciting 28-day voyage starts in Sydney and ends in Hong Kong, stopping along the way at some of…

WHAT’S NEW IN 2020? For more than 50 years, Royal Caribbean has been at the forefront of innovation when it comes to cruise holidays, taking travellers to new heights (literally) and creating lifelong memories for hundreds of thousands of guests – and 2020 is no different. The brand’s second Quantum Ultra Class ship, Odyssey of the Seas, is the newest addition to the Royal Caribbean family in 2020. The 27th ship in the fleet, she will embark on her inaugural journey in November next year. Game-changing transformations continue in 2020 with Royal Amplified. Not just another cruise-ship renovation, each amplified ship promises more action-packed ways to fill your time between shores, like on the epic waterslide duo, The Perfect Storm. Sail the Southern Caribbean on the newly Amplified Freedom of…

The brochure touts fabulous feasts and wicked wine but, curiously, makes no mention of the onboard entertainment: tantalising tales of clandestine love trysts and rumours of civil war that lure you in during the 4352-kilometre journey. But I spiral into existential panic when I hear that there is no wi-fi on the continent-crossing Indian Pacific (greatsouthernrail.com.au). My phone service provider fails to appreciate that people like to, on occasion, not only travel far outside the outskirts of major metropolises, but also constantly digi-brag about their experiences. What will become of me, armed only with sporadic internet (at best) for three and a half days as I span ‘the longest stretch of straight railway track in the world’? As the 774-metre-long, Perth-bound train departs Sydney’s Central Station, my innate, I-should-be-doing-something-constructive guilt…

Arguably Greece’s most famous island, Santorini is well known for its talc-white Cycladic houses, cerulean-domed churches, taverna-lined promenades and pink-hued sunsets. But few people actually know how this charming little island (and its neighbouring islets) came to be. Part of the Cyclades island group, Santorini’s rather wonky crescent-shaped bay, facing a scattering of adjacent, smaller islands, hints at the fact the group was once circular, with a caldera – a cauldron-like depression left by a drowned volcano – at its centre. Fast-forward a few thousand years, and a few colossal volcanic eruptions later that caused parts of it to sink, and Santorini’s sheer red cliffs along the eastern border are all that is left of this geological phenomenon. For visitors to Santorini, seeing the caldera is simple. Whitewashed hotels hug…

O'AHU City soul meets balmy beauty on O'ahu. From the hidden waterfalls of Waimea Valley, to the Jurassic backdrop of Kualoa Ranch, famed Waikiki beach and the phenomenal pipelines of the North Shore, O'ahu has something new at every turn. Taste your way through Honolulu sampling traditional cuisine, modern eats and fine-dining favourites, and choose from a range of hiking trails for a chance to see the native flora and fauna first-hand. Don’t miss: the iconic dormant volcano overlooking Waikiki, Diamond Head. KAUA'I For over six million years, Mother Nature has been hard at work creating magic on Kaua'i. Isolated and untamed, much of the island is inaccessible by foot but can be easily explored by sea or air. Home to Waimea Canyon, nicknamed The Grand Canyon of the Pacific,…

It’s early spring and we’re driving from Rome to Bernalda to stay at Palazzo Margherita in the untouristy region of Basilicata, which is wedged between up-and-coming Puglia and Calabria in the arch of Italy’s shoe. As we drive into the sleepy hilltop town we realise that we don’t have the hotel’s address and no wi-fi to find it. It’s Sunday afternoon; everything is closed. Perhaps the main appeal of Palazzo Margherita is that it doesn’t look or act like a hotel. It’s one of American film director Francis Ford Coppola’s six Family Hideaways (the other five being in Central and South America). We have a problem, however. How to find a hotel that has no hotel sign? We needn’t have worried. It was waiting for us right on the main…