Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2019 - August 2019 i International Traveller

The impact that cruising has had on the travel industry cannot be underestimated. It’s a much quoted fact that Australians are some of the highest consumers of cruises per capita head of the population in the world; we just can’t get enough of it, it seems. Fitting then that this issue features a number of cruises to far-flung locations across the globe. Our deputy editor Daniel Down jumped on a cruise of Norway’s ›ords, taking in the austere landscape and colourful row houses of the Nordic nation; our chief sub-editor Imogen Eveson, meanwhile, headed to Italy, floating from port to port on its sparkling Mediterranean coast. Steve Madgwick departed the Emirate of Abu Dhabi and took in exotic pit stops such as the Omani capital of Muscat on a cruise…

FASHION PLATE Swedish fashion brand H&M’s new flagship home store on London’s Regent Street is a true one-stop shop for fashionable nesters given it also includes an outlet of Swedish eatery It’s Pleat. The cafe was a hit when it launched at H&M in Westfield White City, so the inner-city outlet right in the heart of London’s central shopping district is sure to please, with its menu of dishes that are ‘both super tasty and good for you’ (according to the official line). And once you have finished dining Swedish style you can replicate the Scandi vibe by taking home some of the brand’s cool and affordable designs. pleat.com FIVE OTHER FASHIONABLE CAFES WORTH CHECKING OUT THE BLUE BOX CAFE AT TIFFANY & CO., NEW YORK CITY Just about every…

Music and mythology on the island of Hydra For lovers of music and mythology, the tiny Greek island of Hydra is a place of pilgrimage; they’ll hop on a ferry from the port of Piraeus to trace the steps walked by the late, great Leonard Cohen. He arrived on the island as an emerging poet in 1960 and was welcomed into the bohemian fold that already existed there; Australian writers George Johnston and Charmian Clift offered up their spare room and it wasn’t long before Cohen purchased his own home – a whitewashed house on a hill. He’d go on to immortalise Hydra in songs and poems including Bird on the Wire and Days of Kindness as well as in the imaginations of many.…

GETTING THERE Vietnam Airlines flies direct to Ho Chi Minh City from Sydney and Melbourne and it is an additional 50-minute flight to reach Phu Quoc Island. Phu Quoc International Airport is 10 kilometres from Duong Dong. STAYING THERE Nam Nghi Phu Quoc (namnghiresort.com) is next-level luxury with a private beach, restive spa and traditional design; the JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa (marriott.com) is a riot of colour, ideas and design that makes a stay there an experience all on its own. EATING THERE Duong Dong’s hip Crab House serves Vietnamese seafood in an American-themed diner setting, with US car plates on the walls. PLAYING THERE Floating restaurants, hiking to waterfalls, golfing, water sports, a historic prison – Phu Quoc is your oyster (and yes, you…

The misty mountain town of Takachiho has no high-speed train connections or highways leading to it. Instead, it takes a winding drive to get here: one that helps acclimatise you to the scenery in store and makes this off-the-beaten track destination feel gloriously, ethereally removed from the world. Located in northern Miyazaki – a mountainous, mango-growing prefecture on Japan’s southern island of Kyushu – Takachiho’s landscape is characterised by deep ravines, lava-carved gorges and waterfalls that plunge into emerald green rivers. In autumn, when the leaves turn a blaze of gold, red and auburn, it’s elevated to a level of hyper-real beauty. Assessing it all from the lofty heights of the town’s walking trail or its panoramic lookout, it’s easy to see why this ancient land is the mythological birthplace…

OSAKA Hailed as the nation’s kitchen, foodies can’t go past a trip to Osaka. It’s also home to Universal Studios, Osaka Castle and Japan’s answer to Times Square: the Dotonbori. Take the city’s unofficial slogan seriously and ‘eat till you drop’ through its neighbourhoods, or try a walking tour of the Dotonbori area for the ultimate food experience. FUKUOKA The gateway to Kyushu Island, Fukuoka was formed by the merging of the castle town of Fukuoka, on the west bank, and the merchant town of Hakata on the east – a historical and cultural touch point that’s still discernible today. Offering warm weather, modern attractions and, what the city may be best known for, their yatai (open-air food stalls) and Hakata ramen. NAGOYA Parks and green spaces prevail in this…

Neither beach resort or hinterland village, BAYONNE sometimes gets lost amidst the many attractions of the French Basque Country but this walled town, with its narrow, brightly coloured, half-timbered houses, Roman ruins and two medieval castles, is perhaps the region’s most surprising hidden gem. It was here that Jews fleeing the Spanish Inquisition brought their knowledge of chocolate making to France and the rest of Europe. By the mid-19th century there were 34 chocolatiers in the city. Today, there are just six but each offers its own specialties for a very pleasant chocolate crawl. Until the mid 1850s chocolate was only enjoyed in liquid form; today chocolat mousseux is still the attraction at lace-table-clothed CAZENAVE . South American cacao, vanilla and/or cinnamon is whipped with fresh local milk for an…

GETTING THERE Etihad Airways offers multiple non-stop daily flights to Abu Dhabi from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane. etihad.com CRUISING THERE Steve joined a seven-night cruise aboard the MSC Splendida from Abu Dhabi. For details of MSC Cruises’ 2019, 2020 and 2021 Arabian Peninsula itineraries visit msccruises.com.au. TALKING THERE Try using these Arabic phrases while you’re onshore: Márhaba – Hello Máa saláma – Goodbye As-salám aláykum – Greetings (peace be with you) Káyf hálak? – How are you? Náam/la – Yes/no Min fádlak – Please Shúkran – Thank you…

GETTING THERE Air India flies direct from Sydney and Melbourne to Delhi; Jaipur is a five-hour drive from the capital, so be sure to arrange an experienced driver through a reputable travel agency or hotel. Alternatively, catch a connecting flight to Jaipur International Airport. airindia.in STAYING THERE THE SUJÁN RAJMAHAL PALACE wouldn’t be out of place in a Wes Anderson film with its pastel colour palette, Art Deco furniture, whimsical wallpaper and eye-catching symmetry. This historic hotel is one of Rajasthan’s most treasured palaces, and in recent years the royal family has commissioned an extravagant restoration. sujanluxury.com SAMODE HAVELI This rambling, centuries-old mansion was once home to the aristocratic rulers of Samode. Today, the haveli is decorated with plush fabrics, Kashmiri-style rugs, hand-painted frescoes and historic artefacts. It’s perfect for…

It’s an often proffered opinion that New York is the ultimate city in the world. Sure there’s London and Rome and Paris, all fabulous cities steeped in history and culture and style. But New York is the kind of city that confounds and amazes in equal measure. A city that continuously defies expectations and refuses to be categorised; where resolutely modern steel-and-glass skyscrapers threaten to poke holes in the heavens and where a deer finds refuge on a grassy verge as one road swings around into another on the way to one of the busiest airports in the country (I kid you not). It is also the kind of city that changes and morphs on an almost daily basis. Where the history and traditions ingrained in the very fabric of…

GRAND DESIGNS Māori for ‘container of treasures’, Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa is a sprawling collection of galleries and permanent and temporary exhibitions that explore the national identity of New Zealand. Make time to visit the new interactive Te Taiao/Nature exhibition and Tūrangawaewae: Art and New Zealand, which includes historical and contemporary portraiture and sculpture. tepapa.govt.nz COMMON GROUND TAKING PLACE EVERY SATURDAY (10AM TO 4PM) ON THE CITY’S WATERFRONT, THE WELLINGTON UNDERGROUND MARKETS OFFER UP AN ARRAY OF FOOD, COFFEE AND CRAFTS, FROM HOMEMADE JAMS TO KNITTING YARNS TO HANDMADE JEWELLERY. MOVIE NIGHT THE STUNNING EMBASSY THEATRE, ORIGINALLY BUILT IN THE 1920S AND STILL RETAINING MANY OF ITS HERITAGE ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES, HAS PLAYED HOST TO WORLD PREMIERES OF PETER JACKSON’S FILMS, BUT THE THEATRE ALSO SHOWS NEW RELEASES…

WIN the ultimate European holiday with Cruiseco and MSC Cruises Cruiseco and International Traveller are giving YOU the chance to WIN a European holiday for two, valued at $6500. Visit our ‘Win’ tab for more. THE ULTIMATE JAPAN FOODIE EXPERIENCES The closure of Tokyo’s Tsukiji fish market was a blow. But, fear not! We have a Japanese food guide to fill that fish-shaped hole in your stomach… SEE ‘DESTINATIONS’ FOR OUR JAPAN GUIDE 12 OF THE BEST THINGS EVERY FIRST TIMER SHOULD DO IN MALTA Malta might not be at the top of your European bucket list, but perhaps it should be. Discover the highlights of this under-the-radar archipelago. SEE ‘DESTINATIONS’ FOR OUR MALTA GUIDE 20 REASONS TO GO TO ANTARCTICA If ever you needed a reason to take a…

Until 1 September LEE KRASNER: LIVING COLOUR LONDON, UK HER NAME AND WORK MAY HAVE BEEN OVERSHADOWED BY HER HUSBAND JACKSON POLLOCK, BUT LEE KRASNER (1908–1984) WAS ONE OF THE PIONEERS OF ABSTRACT EXPRESSIONISM IN HER OWN RIGHT, AS THIS RETROSPECTIVE OF HER WORK STAGED BY THE BARBICAN – THE FIRST IN EUROPE FOR OVER 50 YEARS – DEMONSTRATES. BARBICAN.ORG.UK Until 15 September FRA ANGELICO AND THE RISE OF THE FLORENTINE RENAISSANCE MADRID, SPAIN THIS EXHIBITION AT THE PRADO MUSEUM, WHICH CELEBRATES ITS 200TH ANNIVERSARY THIS YEAR, LOOKS BACK TO THE BEGINNINGS OF THE RENAISSANCE IN THE 1420S AND 1430S, CASTING FRA ANGELICO (C. 1395–1455) AS ITS PROTAGONIST. THE PAINTER AND DOMINICAN FRIAR WAS AT THE FOREFRONT OF ARTISTIC INNOVATION IN FLORENCE. MUSEODELPRADO.ES Until 8 December GARRY WINOGRAND: COLOR NEW…

MALAYAN SUN BEAR The smallest bear in the world, the Malayan Sun bear is also known as the honey bear owing to its love of honeycomb that it forages for using a ridiculously long tongue. Unfortunately loss of habitat and the bears’ capture for the harvesting of bile for traditional medicines are a threat to its survival. BORNEAN TARSIER A night tour of Gunung Mulu will be required to spot this tiny 12- to 15-centimetre-long primate. At night they forage on the floor and up in the low undergrowth for insects. A tidy creature, it has dedicated grooming claws and a tail strong enough to support its weight so it can be ‘hands-free’. RHINOCEROS HORNBILL The first question you’re asking is ‘what is the horn of the rhinoceros hornbill for?’…

In the cool dawn at Ubud morning market, farmers sit encircled by baskets brimming with glossy, indigo-hued eggplants, brilliant-green beans and sunny yellow bananas. Calls ring out spruiking exotic produce of hairy rambutans, bubbly-skinned gourds and bunches of longans. This daily buffet of ingredients catches the eye of passing locals, tourists and chefs as they meander through the vibrant market. Much of this bounty will end up at Bali’s restaurants and warungs (eateries) that have become part of the island’s happening food scene – a scene that beautifully fuses both local and western ingredients and cooking styles. From the beach to the rice fields, you’ll find fine dining restaurants dishing up internationally inspired plates beside traditional Balinese fare and hip, health-conscious eateries. It’s a flavour-packed balance that makes Bali an…

A playground of street food, bustling wet markets and boutique hotels shrouded in crumbling 1900s architecture, Ipoh is fast becoming one of the most fashionable destinations in Malaysia’s lush northern territory. Having heard promise of its colourful laneways, I ventured behind a seemingly closed shop front to discover The Tiga Bar, a shabby cocktail den that firmly puts the tin-mining city on any speakeasy lover’s map. Much like the rest of Ipoh, Tiga is part-colonial relic, part-hipster paradise. To reach the entrance, I paced down what appeared to be a utility access pathway on a journey reminiscent of one you’d take to find the hidden venues that used to litter New York’s Lower East Side. However, unlike in the 24-hour city, the sound of my footsteps disturbs the stillness of…

DESTINATION Bali WHAT IT SAYS ABOUT YOU The good times just keep rolling WHAT TO DO With well-priced flights and a multitude of accommodation options, you can decide to go small and luxurious with that special someone (try Alila Villas Uluwatu with its luxurious private pool villas and stunning sunset pavilion for Champagne supping) or hire the biggest villa you can find (browse balivillaescapes.com.au or balivillas.com) for a party for the ages. MAKE A WISH Organise a traditional sky lantern ceremony (balipartyshop.com) to bring the celebrations to a spectacular end. DESTINATION New York City WHAT IT SAYS ABOUT YOU Sleep is for 60-year-olds! WHAT TO DO If the aim of the birthday game is to be spoilt, then the Big Apple is going to do just that with choice: award-winning…

Not content to rest on its reputation as the best airport in the world, an accolade it has won consistently for nearly a decade in every travel award ceremony worth paying attention to, Changi Airport Singapore has upped the ante with the opening of Jewel. As the name implies, the new hub, which cost roughly $1.7 billion to realise, is a glittering beacon of steel and glass populated with some pretty impressive features: from the tallest indoor waterfall in the world (the HSBC Rain Vortex) and art installations to a dizzying amount of shopping (including an outlet of Japanese chain Tokyu Hands), food options and a YOTELAIR hotel with rooms (or cabins) inspired by first-class aircraft design. On top of this, a suspended trampoline walkway, an indoor park, a living…

From the snowy peaks of the High Atlas Mountains to the rolling dunes of the Sahara Desert, Morocco is made for adventure. On this tour, starting in Casablanca, you’ll have the chance to explore some of Morocco’s most interesting towns and cities. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS • Explore the beautiful Kasbah des Oudaias in Rabat • Enjoy a home-cooked dinner in the blue city of Chefchaouen • Spend the night in a former palace • Hike to undiscovered waterfalls in Talassemtane National Park • Enjoy a sundowner at the best vantage point in Fes • Hike through Ifrane National Park in the Middle Atlas Mountains • Four-wheel-drive through the Sahara to a luxury desert camp •Take a camel ride to watch the sun rise above the dunes • Cycle through Skoura’s palm…

In years and years no sailing vessel has attempted this traverse, and we found ourselves in the midst of one of the loneliest of the Pacific solitudes … we sighted no sail… no steamer’s smoke above the horizon. A disabled vessel would drift in this deserted expanse for a dozen generations, and there would be no rescue.” Jack London, The Cruise of the Snark, 1911. What might Jack London make then of my short temper here in the Owner’s Suite of the M/V Aranui 5 as I try, for the third time, to connect to the worldwide web. Goddammit, the signal was strong 10 minutes ago; how can those satellite waves be so slippery out here amongst this, one of the most remote island archipelagoes on Earth? When London sailed…

Early risers visiting Takachiho between mid-September and late November will be treated to a spectacular sight – if atmospheric conditions are just right. Head to the panoramic Kunimigaoka observation deck (a 10-minute drive uphill from town) in time for sunrise to see if the Sea of Clouds manifests: a thick mass of weather that fills the Takachiho basin like cotton candy. And if it doesn’t, the kaleidoscope of colours that plays out on the landscape for a few magical minutes before and after the sun appears over the mountains won’t leave you disappointed.…

GETTING THERE Fly with Air France or KLM to Paris before catching an internal flight to Biarritz. STAYING THERE By the sea Mercure Biarritz Centre Plaza; accorhotels.com La Réserve, Saint-Jean-de-Luz; hotel-lareserve.com/en In the countryside L’Auberge Basque, Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle; aubergebasque.com Hôtel Arcé, Saint-Étienne-de Baïgorry; hotel-arce.com La maison Oppoca, Ainhoa; oppoca.com Hôtel Arraya, Sare; arraya.com/en TALKING THERE Useful Basque phrases: Kaixo – Hello Eskerrik asko – Thank you Egun on – Good morning Arratsalde on – Good afternoon Agur – Goodbye…

The older generation aren’t typically a source of envy for the young, but here, in arguably Norway’s most spectacular fjord, I spy a couple in their late 20s stood next to a campervan positively boiling with longing to be standing alongside my fellow, predominantly grey-haired passengers. We look down on them from above, cocktails in hand, as if we are Roman aristocracy lording it over the mob below. Indeed, we’re standing on a Colosseum-scale, multi-storey viewing platform – a cruise ship, the preferred form of locomotion for the more distinguished traveller – and it is clear, staring into the couple’s envious eyes, that when it comes to the Norwegian fjords, it’s the only way to travel to witness these epic Earth-scale fissures hewn from stone with time and ice. But…

New York could rightfully make a play for the honorific of best destination in the world to stuff your face. From a giant ‘slice’ served up in a hole-in-the-wall pizza joint to Michelin-starred dining, the nosh in New York covers low to high and lasts all day long. With so much choice it’s sometimes impossible to know where to start; Chic City Experiences can help with that. Its bespoke Signature Culinary Experience takes you on a progressive food journey through some of the city’s award-winning dining experiences, pairing small plate options with matching wines. On any given day you could be pulling up a seat at the moody Nordic diner Agern (Danish for acorn), tucked into the former men’s waiting lounge at Grand Central Terminal, or joining the Midtown crowd…

As much as it is a force of destruction, fire also has the power to breathe new life. Take the species of ‘pyrophytic’ plants found across South Africa, the seeds of which germinate having been cooked in a bushfire. The same process of destruction and renewal is something that strikes you upon arrival at &Beyond’s luxury safari lodge, Phinda Homestead, set deep within the bush of a private game reserve in the eastern South African province of KwaZulu-Natal. The sweeping, sculptural entrance isn’t simply a grand opening statement; the earthen walls and big lily pond pay homage to a towering 250-year-old marula tree that stood here before a fire ripped through the original homestead in December 2016. Now, where the tree would have soared, is an expansive, round void cut…

Gorgeous George, Cape Town Housed over two heritage Cape Town buildings (one Edwardian, the other dating to the 1920s), Gorgeous George definitely lives up to its bold moniker, with each of its 20 rooms and 12 suites exuding a sophisticated industrial chic vibe (thanks to the use of concrete and steel) softened with African influences, Delft-inspired ceramics and a colour palette of blues, whites and greens. There’s a restaurant, bar and sexy rooftop pool terrace. designhotels.com MANDARIN ORIENTAL HYDE PARK, LONDON Originally opened in 1902 (as the Hyde Park Hotel), the grand Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park in London’s well-heeled Knightsbridge district has reopened after a multi-million-pound renovation (and a headline-making blaze that broke out in June 2018 just one week after the completion of works). The interiors have been luxuriously…

WHERE IT IS: Perched on a cliff overlooking the unspoilt expanse of Kalafatis Beach on the island of Mykonos. WHY WE LOVE IT: Its 40 rooms and suites overlooking the Aegean Sea emulate the clean lines of classical Greek architecture, while the earthy tones and tactile textures of linens, raffia and wood lend a barefoot-luxe feel that is perfect for the sun-scorched surrounds. WHAT TO BORROW: The warm tones of The Wild Hotel work equally well in our clear, bright Australian conditions; layer neutral on neutral and contrast it with milky white backdrops and plenty of open windows to drench it all in sunlight.…

GREEN CITIES TO VISIT OSLO , currently the European Green Capital for 2019, plans to be carbon neutral by 2050 and is aiming to become a car-free city (over half of new cars sold there are electric). SINGAPORE prides itself on being a city within a garden, with guidelines for incorporating greenery and plants into new architecture and developments. COPENHAGEN is aiming to become the world’s first carbon neutral city by 2025. VANCOUVER has committed to getting all of its energy from renewable sources by 2050, and being waste-free by 2040. CURITIBA , Brazil, recycles around 70 per cent of its waste into reusable energy or usable products. FIVE OF THE BEST: BELT BAGS Designed to sit pretty on your hip or slung over your shoulder, these reinvented fashion accessories…

Planning an adventure to the USA? You can hop on a super comfy 787-9 Dreamliner daily from Sydney to Los Angeles with American Airlines – but that’s only the beginning. Those flights connect to Oregon 11 times daily, so you can immerse yourself in this naturally blessed, outdoors-loving state in a mere 2.5 hours more. Think skiing, fishing, rafting, hiking amongst stunning snow-capped mountains, deep scenic gorges, sweeping high deserts and majestic Pacific coastline. And that’s not even counting Oregon’s popular hub, Portland, one of the hippest places to base yourself if you love great local brews and food. Beyond the city, three brand new self-drive Food Trails will take you deep into produce country – this just may be the most delicious way to travel. See them and more…

ONE-OF-A-KIND SIGHTS Historic finds abound at landmarks such as the US Mint founded in 1792; the Museum of the American Revolution, complete with George Washington’s original Headquarters Tent and a full-scale replica privateer ship; the National Liberty Museum, with its 21-foot glass Flame of Liberty sculpture; and the momentous buildings of Independence National Historical Park, birthplace of the Declaration of Independence and the US Constitution. There’s more to see left of centre, too, such as Al Capone’s prison cell at the Eastern State Penitentiary, the cabinet of medical curiosities that is the Mütter Museum and the world-leading public art program that has earned Philly international recognition as the City of Murals. muralarts.org FROM CULINARY HISTORY TO SANDWICH GREATNESS While fine dining in Philly is fantastic (the City Tavern offers the…

CHRISTIAN DIOR: DESIGNER OF DREAMS, VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON This exhibition of over 200 haute couture garments, assembled from the V&A’s couture collection and the design house’s extensive archives, has been such a smash with Londoners and visitors alike that it has been extended until 1 September. The creations of Christian Dior himself, and the designers who have carried his name forward since his death (he suffered a heart attack in 1957, just 11 years after founding his eponymous fashion house in 1946) – Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and currently Maria Grazia Chiuri – are the embodiment of luxury, in fabrication, in time and in effort; it is fitting then that consideration has also been lavished on the staging, which also includes…

1 NATURAL BEAUTY Bali Body's Moisturising Sunscreen SPF15, $25.95, along with its full range of suncare, skincare and self-tanning products, are Australian made and vegan friendly. au.balibodyco.com 2 SAY MY NAME Luggage brand Ookonn's letter stickers, $15 each, allow you to monogram your case so that it never gets mixed up on the baggage carousel again. net-a-porter.com 3 ROLLING WITH IT Away Travel makes sleek and stylish suitcases (inlcuding The Bigger Carry-On, $356) for the modern traveller, complete with ejectable built-in batteries that allow you to charge your phone or tablet when your bag is close by or on the go. awaytravel.com 4 SOUTHERN COMFORT Australian-made Base Bodywear's comfortable, easy basics can be mixed and matched to stylish effect. Its easy to pack Travel Essentials Pack, $150, contains a plain…

GETTING THERE Emirates flies to Venice and Rome via Dubai from most Australian capital cities. emirates.com CRUISING THERE Viking Ocean Cruises’ eight-day Italian Sojourn cruise starts from $3995, with pre- and post-cruise extension options also available. Sail from Venice to Rome or Rome to Venice. vikingcruises.com.au TALKING THERE Venetian, Neapolitan and Sicilian are each distinct languages in Italy, and while you won’t struggle to get around with your classic ciao and grazie, why not learn some local lingo? Eat cicchetti (small snacks) at a bacaro (wine bar) in Venice, vott o carr pa scesa (go with the flow) in Naples and exclaim spacchiuso! (cool!) or beda! (beautiful!) at everything you see in Sicily.…

GETTING THERE Air Tahiti Nui flies from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne to Papeete, Tahiti, via Auckland with Qantas codeshare. airtahitinui.com.au CRUISING THERE Aranui 5 offers a regular 13-day voyage from Papeete to nine Tahitian islands across the Marquesas, Tuamotu and Society Islands, including Bora Bora. An Aranui 5 cruise includes shore excursions, laundry service, three meals per day and complimentary French wine with onboard lunches and dinners. aranuicruises.com.au SPEAKING THERE English and French are widely spoken in The Islands of Tahiti, including the Marquesas, but it’s good to try a few Tahitian words and phrases while you’re there. ‘Ia ora na – Good morning E aha te huru? – How are you? Maita’i – Good/well Māuruuru – Thank you Māuruuru roa – Thanks very much Nānā – Goodbye Manuia –…

Sometimes, in places far, far away that twinkle so gaily, you simply can’t see the stairs for the Swarovskis. Twin golden-balustraded staircases jazz-hand aloft from the MSC Splendida’s atrium, each glass-sheathed step stratified with the Austrian crystals; presumably Italian design studio De Jorio’s interpretation of stairways to cruise-ship heaven. The atrium’s polestar, a glossy black grand piano, is garnished with an impulsive Swarovski gust, too; the surrounding plum-coloured velvet lounges vapid by comparison. Like an inadvertently ungrasped fairground balloon, a chandelier hangs way, way up in the apex, too high to compete or complement the action below. The ‘Fantasia’ class Splendida – christened by Sophia Loren, no less – is a lot to drink in for first-day cruisers, freshly funnelled from nations near, far and obscure, from Italy and Russia…

WATCH THE LATEST BOLLYWOOD BLOCKBUSTER Book a ticket to watch a Bollywood film at one of India’s most celebrated cinemas, the 1970s-era Raj Mandir Theatre. It makes for an exciting night out and whilst you might not understand Hindi, the simple plots, over-the-top-action and dancing make it fun to follow along. therajmandir.com APPRECIATE ANCIENT ASTRONOMY Jantar Mantar is a UNESCO World Heritage-listed astronomical observation site built by Jai Singh in the early 1700s. Hire a guide to explain the instruments used by astrologers to observe celestial positions with the naked eye. Don’t miss the world’s largest sundial made entirely out of stone. WONDER AT THE PALACE OF THE WINDS The 18th-century Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds), with its intricate, lace-like facade carved from pink sandstone, was designed to allow…

GETTING THERE Fly to Schiphol airport with major carriers from most Australian cities. Holland America Line’s cruises depart a terminal a handy 10-minute walk from Amsterdam Centraal. CRUISING THERE The seven-day Norse Legends cruise is now served by the Nieuw Statendam, the sister ship of the Koningsdam that launched in December last year. The cruise departs 8 September 2019 with fares from $2199 per person twin share. hollandamerica.com.au TALKING THERE Some useful Norwegian phrases: Vaer så snill – Please Takk – Thank you Vaer så god – You’re welcome Unnskyld – Excuse me Beklager – I am sorry.…

GETTING THERE While most Australians arrive into New York City having done the long haul to Los Angeles and wrestled their way through customs at LAX before boarding another flight, travelling on Air Canada provides a very civilised alternative. The carrier flies daily into Vancouver from Sydney and Brisbane, and four times a week from Melbourne, with connecting flights into Newark Liberty International Airport. The flight time is roughly the same as travelling the more traditional route, but the added bonus of touching down in Canada is that you actually clear US Custom and Immigration as you transit the airport, which is a multi-award winner. There’s ample opportunity to buy maple syrup and cuddly polar bears too, which just adds an extra element of sweetness to the journey (literally). aircanada.com…

WHAT’S IT ALL ABOUT? This monumental museum evolved from the collections of an empress and expresses Russia’s love for all things arts and culture. One of the world’s largest museums, the State Hermitage Museum is made up of six buildings on the banks of the Neva River in St Petersburg’s historic heart. Most emblematic among them is the green, white and gold Winter Palace, a three-storey, 1500-room marvel of Baroque architecture that was once the main residence of the Russian Tsars. The museum dates back to 1764, when Catherine the Great bought a›collection of Western European paintings, and has grown to encompass over three million works of art and artefacts from all epochs, longitudes and latitudes imaginable. EAT LIKE AN EMPEROR The five-star State Hermitage Museum Official Hotel opened six…

THE NEEDLE DAM This fascinating needle dam (nadelwehr), also known as Reuss Weir, was built between 1859 and 1861 to control the flow of water from the River Reuss into Lake Lucerne in order to prevent flooding and regulate the water levels; wooden needles are inserted or removed from the weir to affect the flow of water. THE MUSEGG WALL Built in the 14th century as part of the fortifications protecting the then town, the Musegg Wall and four of its nine towers (including the Männli tower, adorned with a statue of a soldier) are open to the public; you can walk the ramparts to enjoy views over the old town and the city beyond. THE LION OF LUCERNE This rock relief of a dying lion is heartbreaking in its…

RÖSTI Many consider this potato fritter to be the national dish; it’s made by forming grated potato into rounds and frying until crisp and golden brown. Originating in Bern as a farmer’s breakfast, they are now enjoyed across the country. ÄLPLERMAGRONEN A uniquely Swiss version of macaroni cheese that originated in the Alps, it’s made by layering pasta and potatoes with cheese, all of which is topped with fried onions and served with apple sauce. FONDUE Arguably Switzerland’s most famous dish, fondue is made up of molten cheese sauce served in a caquelon, into which chunks of bread are dipped. Potatoes are also popular for dipping. BIRCHERMÜESLI Invented by Swiss doctor Maximilian Oskar Bircher-Benner at the turn of the 20th century, Birchermüesli is traditionally made by combining rolled oats with…