Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2019 - May 2019 i International Traveller

I’ve got to admit that I am a city girl at heart. There is something about the constant buzz of activity, the possibilities around every corner, the concentration of humanity. Talk to any seasoned traveller, or those who aspire to travel, and they are sure to have at least one city on their list of places to see. And given that there are so many great cities around the world to choose from, what intrigues one person will be completely different from what appeals to another. So, when it came to constructing this issue, we were definitely spoilt for choice, but a finite page count and the need to sleep every once in a while dictated that we couldn’t cover everything. As a result we have included some perennial favourites…

GRACE & FLAVOUR Celebrated young chef Adam Handling, of the Frog Hoxton and Frog by Adam Handling in Covent Garden, has a third London restaurant to his credit with the opening of Adam Handling Chelsea, the flagship restaurant inside the luxuriously exclusive 54-room and suite Belmond Cadogan Hotel. The menu features Handling’s signature modern reinterpretation of classic British fare, while the restaurant space is also a traditional/modern hybrid, reflecting the fact that the newly opened hotel is itself retrofitted into a gracious Chelsea mansion built in 1887 in the Queen Anne style. belmond.com MED MEETS ASIA Hong Kong continues to stamp itself as one of the most interesting culinary capitals in the world with the opening of Estiatorio Keia and its menu showcasing the sophistication of modern Greek food. Greece’s…

UNTIL 10 JUNE ALL THE REMBRANDTS AMSTERDAM, THE NETHERLANDS  AS ITS TITLE SUGGESTS, THIS MONUMENTAL EXHIBITION SEES THE RIJKSMUSEUM DISPLAY, FOR THE FIRST TIME, ALL 22 PAINTINGS, 60 DRAWINGS AND OVER 300 OF THE BEST PRINTS BY REMBRANDT THAT IT HAS IN ITS COLLECTION. THIS FORMS PART OF THE MUSEUM’S 2019 ‘YEAR OF REMBRANDT’, WHICH MARKS THE 350TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE DUTCH MASTER’S DEATH. RIJKSMUSEUM.NL/EN Until 23 June THE JEWELED ISLE: ART FROM SRI LANKA LOS ANGELES, USA The sprawling Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA) is known for the impressive collections it holds, and in The Jeweled Isle it presents the first comprehensive survey of Sri Lankan art organised by an American museum. Here, 240 works that speak of nearly two millennia of Sri Lankan history take the…

KNOWN FOR BEING THE CAPITAL OF THE STATES AND A›CULTURAL CENTRE NEIGHBOURHOODS: THE LAY OF THE LAND There are a couple of dozen neighbourhoods patchworking together the map of DC, each with a very distinct feel. Once you’ve walked the chic streets of Downtown, get your shop on in the endless boutiques of cobblestoned Georgetown, spurred on by its exquisite landscape of historic houses, fine art galleries and waterfront. Get funky (and›foodie) in left-of-centre Shaw, stay up›late on U Street, and of course, get your walking shoes to tour infamous massive monuments, such as the Lincoln Memorial and the Capitol, on the National Mall. And don’t miss nightly free›shows at the John F. Kennedy Center›for the Performing Arts, set amongst the green space of university area Foggy Bottom. PEOPLE &…

The white concrete cube cuts a contrast against the muted stone and neatly neoclassical architecture of nearby Königsplatz, a square commissioned by Bavarian king Ludwig I in the early 19th century to make Munich look like Athens. It punctures the landscape deliberately: a statement of intent and a new sign of consciousness for a city that had buried its past for 70 years. “In German we have the saying: let grass grow over it,” says Professor Winfried Nerdinger from his airy office on the top floor of this building, the Munich Documentation Centre for the History of National Socialism (NS-Dokumentationszentrum). Billing itself as a place of learning and remembrance, this bold institution within the city’s Kunstareal museum quarter opened in 2015 on the spot where the headquarters of the Nazi…

Long known for pristine beaches, rainforest-covered volcanic mountains and fringing coral reef, Samoa’s 10 postcard-perfect islands offer a multitude of experiences for every kind of traveller – often in vastly different environments. SAMOA FOR FAMILIES Forget the old-school ‘flop and drop’; the beauty of Mother Nature’s playground will turn the youngest of travellers into New World explorers, whether it’s swimming with turtles in the peaceful waters of a lagoon, enjoying the natural waterslides at Papaseea Sliding Rocks or playing a spot of kilikti (Samoan cricket) with the local kids. Will they find buried treasure among the lush jungles surrounding your resort? Will they come across pirates in the watering holes in which they play? Get their hearts racing and imaginations ignited by visiting the restored colonial homestead-turned-museum of Robert Louis…

Honolulu, the capital of the Aloha State and home to famous Waikiki Beach has long been celebrated as a fly-and-flop tropical destination: one that conjures up images of grass-skirt-wearing hula dancers swaying to the harmonious sounds of the ukulele, longboard-riding surfers gesturing the shaka, and a relaxed national uniform of vibrant floral shirts and leis. But perhaps one thing you don’t know about Hawai‘i (or at least it’s not at the top of your holiday checklist) is that it has an incredibly unique cuisine that has been born from a medley of cultural influences. (And it has nothing to do with Hawaiian pizza, which – by the way – was created in Canada.) Here, we give you the lowdown on authentic Hawaiian cuisine, how it has evolved over the years,…

I am standing in front of a former warehouse awash with luminous gold, green and blue tiles depicting Portuguese folk tales. A sign on the front reads ‘A Vida Portuguesa’ – The Portuguese Life (avidaportuguesa.com). It sits on a lively square in the vibrant Intendente neighbourhood, far from the tuk-tuks and pizza joints of a newly touristy Lisbon. Inside, a cloud of black ceramic swallows swoops across the ceiling. Baskets and terracotta pots line the entrance. Floor-to-ceiling wooden shelves house Claus Porto perfumed soaps wrapped in Art Deco packaging, brightly coloured Viarco pencils, and ceramic cabbage plates designed by Bordallo Pinheiro, the makers of the aforementioned swallows. There’s a nook for filigree gold jewellery, a sunny space for children’s drums and pull toys, an upstairs boudoir for hand-made leather bags…

I am more of a creator than a hatmaker. I like to play with the circle in my designs,” says Hungarian milliner extraordinaire Valéria Fazekas. “The circle is mysterious. In the simplicity of its fluid lines you can create beautiful shapes.” Fazekas started her professional life making leather clothing for factory workers during the Communist era. From her tiny atelier and shop on Váci Street (valeriafazekas.com), she uses the finest horse hair to create exquisite sculptural, translucent hats. When I suggest they’d be sensations at the Melbourne Cup’s Fashions on the Field, she tells me that she doesn’t sell mail order “because each hat must be perfectly aligned with a person’s head and body”. This is my first Budapest discovery based on the recommendations of Hungarian Australian art curator Jade…

15 MAY – 30 SEPTEMBER THE ARTIST’S STUDIO: CREATING ART Curated by the Louvre, this exhibition is held over the river at the Musée National Eugène Delacroix, the last studio and home of the Romantic painter. 2 MAY – 12 AUGUST FORGOTTEN KINGDOMS: HEIRS OF THE HITTITE EMPIRE The Louvre is known for its vast Egyptian antiquities collection, and this exhibition explores the mythical sites of a lost civilisation that rivalled ancient Egypt.…

WAT CHAIYAMANGKALARAM This traditional Thai temple was built in 1845 on land bequeathed to George Town’s Thai community by Queen Victoria. It houses a magnificent 33-metre-long reclining Buddha. Behind the statue you’ll see countless niches for urns containing the ashes of devotees. DHAMMIKARAMA BURMESE TEMPLE Centred around a towering standing Buddha clad in gold-leaf robes, the halls of this temple are filled with mythical figures from Burmese folklore. Built in 1805, it’s the oldest temple on Penang. KEK LOK SI The largest Buddhist temple in Malaysia is a sprawling complex of lush gardens and ornate monasteries dominated by a huge statue of the Chinese Goddess of Mercy, and a seven-storey pagoda containing 10,000 alabaster and bronze Buddhas.…

WHAT IS YOUR FIRST MEMORY OF TRAVELLING? Pavia Rosati: From the time I was nine months old, I spent summers in Italy visiting my mother’s family, so my first memories are a jumble of Italian scenes: laughing with cousins on a speedboat around Lago Maggiore, playing bocce on the beach north of Venice, picnics in the Dolomites (1); one day I’ll rediscover the hotel with the connecting indoor-outdoor pool, which still feels so magical to me. WHERE ARE YOU PLANNING ON GOING NEXT? PR: I never know where I’m going next, though topping the to-go list are Patagonia, Norway (2) and Botswana. And I always find my way back to London and the Amalfi Coast. Jeralyn Gerba: I have my heart (and Google Alerts) set on Ethiopia, Egypt (3), Papua…

NEW YORK’S 7 MOST ICONIC SNACKS: WE TRIED THEM ALL Want to try all the famous snacks in New York City but just don’t have the time/ tummy space? We had both, so we did the legwork for you. SEARCH: ‘NEW YORK’ 6 PICTURESQUE PLACES TO GO ON A LONG WEEKEND NEAR LONDON Take your pick of the best counties and villages, exploring the history of England along the way . SEARCH: ‘LONDON’ THE BEST NON-TRAVEL INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS THAT WILL INSPIRE YOU TO SEE THE WORLD There are countless travel accounts on Instagram. But there are other ways to see the world through its lens. From the culinary adventures of @food_feels to the people watching of @humansofny, take a visual tour of a different kind… SEARCH: ‘INSTAGRAM’ EXPLORE A SIDE…

Fact or fiction? Marco Polo’s medieval travel book After dwindling in the early Middle Ages, trade along the Silk Road – the ancient trading routes that linked east to west – experienced a revival in the 13th and 14th centuries, when the Mongols controlled central Asia. Marco Polo journeyed through Asia along the routes of the Silk Road between 1271 and 1292, setting out from Venice with his father and uncle at the age of 17. His book, The Travels of Marco Polo, was published around 1300 and was widely read in Europe at the time. But was it all fiction? Were Polo’s tales wildly exaggerated, did he make it to China? Did he even exist? Scholars are divided on the topic to this day.…

Jordan’s treasures – from Petra to Wadi Rum – are typically found at the end of a ride through lunar-like landscapes marked by arid hues, roadside goats and scattered Bedouin camps. And a visit to one of the country’s most hidden gems is preceded by one of its most scenic, if a little hair-raising, drives. Ma’in Hot Springs Resort and Spa is set in a mountain valley above the Dead Sea: a desert oasis of mineral-rich waterfalls and springs 264 metres below sea level. The site’s 97-room hotel emerges from this dramatic terrain, doing its best to blend in with its pale sandy hues. Stepping into its atmospheric lobby area – with low amber lighting and warm woody furnishings – I know immediately that I love it here. My partner…

Proving year after year to be Star Clippers’ most popular Mediterranean cruise destination, in 2020 you will discover no fewer than seven 7-night Croatia & Montenegro cruises departing round-trip from Venice. Not only will Star Clippers get you closer to the must-see medieval treasures of Dubrovnik, Korcula, Hvar and Kotor, you’ll also visit Zadar, Rovinj and Vis in Croatia. A new destination every day! Early booking (before 31 January 2020) fares start from $2,860 per person, twin share. Ask about the 10- and 11-night Adriatic sailings between Venice, Rome and Athens. For bookings email starclippers@adventureworld.com.au ; visit starclippers.com/au ; or call 1300 361 012,…

With exclusive access to some of the best sights in Tokyo and beyond, Tobu Railway offers travellers a smooth and efficient journey into the heart and history of Japan’s mesmerising capital city and surrounding areas. Its trains deliver curious visitors to the Asakusa area of Tokyo, where old and new intersect, the charming old town atmosphere of Kawagoe, the stunning city of Nikko, steeped in history and tradition, and the onsens and abundant natural scenery of Kinugawa. Here, the perfect four-day itinerary for riding the rails with Tobu Railway. DAY 1 – TOKYO AND KAWAGOE Jump on the train and head to Kawagoe, an easy 30-minute ride from Ikebukuro Station on the Tobu Tojo line. Reminiscent of an old town from the Edo Period (1603-1867), when Japan was ruled over…

GETTING THERE Etihad offers one-stop flights to Munich from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne. etihad.com PLAYING THERE The Munich Documentation Centre for the History of National Socialism is open 10am–7pm Tuesday to Sunday, and on public holiday Mondays. Admission costs €5 ($8) for adults and €2.50 ($4) concessions; it’s free for under 18s, school pupils and students in groups. Use of media guides and a smartphone app is free of charge, as is access to the learning centre. The NS-Dokumentationszentrum is located a four-minute walk from Königsplatz metro station. ns-dokuzentrum-muenchen.de…

GETTING THERE Hawaiian Airlines has direct flights from Sydney and Brisbane to Honolulu. Optional upgrades to Extra Comfort seating provide more leg room, priority boarding in Honolulu, a complimentary amenities kit, and a wider variety of entertainment. hawaiianairlines.com.au PLAYING THERE HAWAI‘I FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL HONOLULU, 5–27 OCTOBER 2019 More than 150 international masterchefs, culinary experts, winemakers and mixologists come together to host exclusive food and wine-based events from grand food tastings to exclusive cooking classes in Honolulu and across Hawai‘i. The basis of the event is to celebrate Hawai‘i’s diverse cuisine while raising money to support sustainability, agriculture and culinary programs.The schedule for the ninth annual event will be released in April. hawaiifoodandwinefestival.com…

South Africa’s distinctive BLUE TRAIN (bluetrain.co.za) ferries guests from Cape Town to Pretoria, and vice versa, in style, with plush suites, a dining car and club car. The VENICE SIMPLON-ORIENT-EXPRESS (belmond.com) is the epitome of nostalgic train travel, evoking a golden age of luxury with its name, and reputation, alone. Conjuring the days of the Raj, India’s PALACE ON WHEELS (thepalaceonwheels.org) features deluxe suites complete with queens beds, opulent fittings and even an onboard spa.…

Much of Lisbon’s charm lies in its diverse neighbourhoods. Here are the most interesting areas to explore. PRÍNCIPE REAL, essentially one long street – Dom Pedro V – is filled with independent boutiques, concept stores, cool bars and restaurants. There’s a lovely weekend market under the trees at the Jardim do Príncipe Real. Elegant, central CHIADO is centred around the sloping Rua do Carmo and Rua Garrett. A few artisanal shops are tucked among what are now mainly international brand-name stores. Hilly BAIRRO ALTO is less bohemian these days but there are some interesting spots mixed among touristy bars and restaurants. Key streets include ruas do Norte, da Atalaia and da Rosa. ALFAMA is a maze of narrow cobbled streets lined with historical buildings that meander up a steep hill…

Try as I might, I can’t avert my eyes from the thick, viscous skin floating at the top of a large glass jar right next to me. It looks like it could almost have a pulse it is so vital and alive. It seems incongruous to its surroundings – a sleek delicatessen space with an industrial-chic-meets-island-style vibe – but as I survey the shelves stacked with organic grains, probiotic yoghurt and freshly baked gluten-free bread, I find that it is actually archetypical. It turns out that the jelly-like skin, known as scoby, is the (good) bacteria-packed essential building block of kombucha, the insanely healthy fermented tea drink that is also readily available here. While the scoby is archetypical of the delicatessen, the delicatessen is archetypical of its greater surroundings: the…

CURRY MEE Like a laksa, this is a coconut milk-based spicy noodle curry, typically eaten with sliced cuttlefish, cubes of dried pig’s blood or cockles. You can always have tofu... OTAK-OTAK You have to sample these banana leaf-wrapped fish cakes: little packets of grilled fish that have been mixed with starch, chillies and other spices. POPIAH Perhaps the most popular item being proffered from hawkers’ stalls is this classic spring roll filled with shrimp, vegetables and bean sprouts. CHAR KWAY TEOW A big, full-flavoured stir fry with flat rice noodles, Chinese sausage, prawns and bean sprouts smothered in a smoky fish sauce. CHEE CHEONG FUN These thick, silky rice noodles are topped with a thick, peanut butter-infused prawn paste and topped with chillies and sesame seeds.…

ART AND SOUL The Frist Art Museum is not only a cornerstone of Nashville’s thriving visual arts scene, but an architectural gem too. The former post office was built in the 1930s: the ‘stripped classicism’ of its exterior displays Depression-era simplicity, while the interiors reveal intricate Art Deco leanings, with cast aluminium doors and grillwork, and marble-clad floors and walls. fristartmuseum.org SLICE OF HISTORY Head to Woolworth on 5th to have lunch in this historically significant spot. The newly opened restaurant is housed in a former F.W. Woolworth five-and-dime store and it was here that in 1960 a series of lunch counter sit-ins took place that would spell an end to segregation in downtown diners (the non-violent protests also advancing the civil rights movement in the USA). Today, diners can…

KĀMANA LAKEHOUSE, QUEENSTOWN, NEW ZEALAND Kāmana Lakehouse is the latest addition to Queenstown’s hotel offering. Located high above Wakatipu Lake, the boutique property’s 73 rooms feature contemporary design (inspired by the Kāmana bird and its natural habitat) and luxe amenities, while the Living Space provides guests with a convivial social space complete with fireplaces and floor-to-ceiling windows with views to the lake and the surrounding mountains. kamana.co.nz FOUR SEASONS BENGALURU In the Indian city of Bengaluru (formerly Bangalore), Four Seasons has installed the 230-room Four Seasons Hotel Bengaluru and Four Seasons Private Residences into the hospitality, retail and corporate Embassy ONE development. Conveniently located 30 minutes from the airport and well connected to the CBD, the sleek hotel features a selection of dining options, a pool, lush botanic gardens and…

MOBILE FIRST: Always double check apps for mobile-only deals and savings. Bookings on the Expedia mobile app earn double Expedia Rewards points – Expedia’s loyalty›program. BUNDLE AND SAVE: Book your flight and hotel together to unlock potentially hundreds of dollars’ worth of extra savings. Australians can save up to $400* by bundling on Expedia. SHOULDER SEASON: Skip the crowds and the premium prices of›the most popular times of year by›visiting destinations on the cusp of peak season. You’ll often find discounted attractions, dining deals›and reduced hotel rates as destinations try to lure in travellers. BE STRATEGIC WHEN BOOKING: Expedia data shows that the day of›the week on which you book your›next trip makes a difference. Do your holiday planning midweek – but wait until Sunday night to lock in the…

Unique sailing adventures – tradition and romance of a tall ship, with all the comforts of a thoroughly modern ship. Environmentally focused – genuine clipper ships, able to hoist the sails and use wind power, the greenest of all propulsion. New ship in 2019 – the magnificent Flying Clipper joins the fleet in the Mediterranean and Caribbean. Focus on destination – many cruises boast no full days at sea, visiting a new port every day. Surprising value – luxury small-ship cruising with attractive early bird fares.…

LUXE Cathay Pacific’s business class lounge in Hong Kong now offers yoga and meditation for those frazzled by flying at the pointy end of the plane. LUXURY CRUISE LINE PONANT IS HELPING COMBAT PLASTIC POLLUTION ON ALDABRA ATOLL IN THE SEYCHELLES. NOW YOU CAN MAKE SWEET MUSIC ON THE GO WITH ROLI’S TRAVEL-FRIENDLY ‘BLOCKS’ INSTRUMENTS. The Chapel of Sound will be a concert hall near the Great Wall in China that looks like a large granite plateau: rock music indeed. Samsung’s Galaxy Fold is a phone, tablet and camera in one; packing just got easier (and lighter). LOVING A BREED OF GIANT TORTOISE THOUGHT TO BE EXTINCT HAS BEEN REDISCOVERED IN THE GALAPAGOS, WHILE A GIANT BEE NOT SEEN FOR YEARS HAS BEEN SIGHTED IN INDONESIA; WHERE HAVE THEY BEEN…

STREET ART It is early in the morning and I’m standing on the corner of Graham Street in the Central neighbourhood of Hong Kong Island looking at one of the most Instagrammed sights in the city. It’s a street artwork by artist Alex Croft, commissioned by the celebrated Hong Kong design brand Goods of Desire (G.O.D), whose Hollywood Road store it adorns the side of, depicting the now demolished Kowloon Walled City. The depiction of the hotchpotch house fronts of the former unsanctioned housing development is not the biggest, the brightest or the most detailed of the street art daubed across walls and buildings in this part of the city, but something about it has captured the collective imagination of locals and visitors alike. Or so I am told, because…

CAFE CULTURE Devour a buttery Viennoiserie pastry and sip an espresso – or, better still, an elegant coupe of Veuve Clicquot – under the hidden arcades of the Louvre’s Richelieu Wing. You’ll pay for the privilege, of course, but the inimitable location and character of Le Café Marly make it well worth the splurge. An upscale Parisian brasserie with an air of a literary cafe, this tucked-away spot epitomises all that is chic about the French capital. Linger on its terrace overlooking the Louvre Pyramid, or be ensconced in the Napoleon III dining rooms where padded banquettes and gilded woodwork remind you that this was all once a palace. cafe-marly.com WHAT’S IT ALL ABOUT? The biggest art museum on the planet and former royal palace in the heart of…