Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2018 - February 2019 i International Traveller

NOI COPENHAGEN With a focus on high-quality seasonal produce, Noi Copenhagen, located in the Nobis Hotel Copenhagen, offers small and large dishes perfect for sharing (pictured), all overseen by chef Fredrik Sandberg in a space designed by celebrated Swedish architect Gert Wingårdh. nobishotel.dk/noi GRIDIRON Firing up the grill at COMO Metropolitan London on Old Park Lane, Gridiron by COMO celebrates the ancient art of grilling from an open kitchen and a modern live-fire grill with lots of in-season and ethical produce (oysters pictured right) on the menu. comohotels.com DON’T TELL AUNTY Chef and restaurateur Jessi Singh’s 85-seat Don’t Tell Aunty in Sydney’s Surry Hills serves up his ‘unauthentic Indian’ cuisine (“There’s no ghee or oil in the curry, there’s whisky in the chai and the men do the cooking,” he…

Prior to its inauguration as a national park in 1938, Sri Lanka’s Yala wilderness was a shooting gallery for the ruling British elite, who sought trophies of its plentiful leopards and elephants. Sitting in the south of the tear-drop-shaped island and abutting the Indian Ocean, today Yala’s wildlife is shot by thousands of photographers a year instead; it’s by far the country’s most popular national park, and for good reason: it’s the best place on the planet to spot leopards, with the highest concentration of the cat in the world. But there’s so much more to the 1268 square kilometres of protected space, including important archaeological sites and temples, families of Asian elephants, an endless stream of birdlife and simply a vast and varied landscape of forests, scrub and dramatic…

From the moment we arrive at Hotel Providence, on cobblestoned rue René Boulanger in the hip 10th arrondissement, we are entranced. Wrought-iron balconies dot a cream limestone building adorned with delicate carvings. Metal tables and wicker chairs grace a tree-dotted terrace shaded with green awnings. And just inside, a crackling fire warms a lobby cosy with leather smoking chairs and sink-into-me couches. There are those who describe Paris as a museum piece with none of the edginess of Berlin or vibrancy of Madrid. They have clearly not spent time in the 10th arrondissement. This former working-class neighbourhood, still rich with immigrant diversity, is now the epicentre of hip and happening Paris. Tech start-ups and boutique fashion labels perch beside African barber shops, artisan fromagers and hip bars. If you’re young…

The desertscape of Wadi Rum encompasses some of the most stunning scenery in all of Jordan. From grand palaces to historic temples, hot desert plains to snowy mountain peaks, On The Go Tours has always brought travellers the finest sights and adventures the world has to offer. Immerse yourself in a truly authentic local experience on a popular guided group tour, make a date with some of the world’s most colourful festivals, take an unforgettable family adventure, tailor-make that dream holiday or discover the pulse of the world’s most exciting cities on a wide range of day trips; it’s all up to you. A magical evening of traditional music and dance, local cuisine and shisha accompanied by awe-inspiring incredible lansdscapes awaits under a blanket of stars at On The Go…

Passengers can frequently spot wildlife such as orcas, bald eagles or sea lions. The waters of south-western British Columbia in Canada, are some of the most spectacular in the world, and the uniquely beautiful, comfortable and convenient journey aboard the V2V Empress between downtown Vancouver and downtown Victoria aims to showcase this stunning corner of the world with unparalleled commitment to service, comfort and luxury. Whether you are looking for an exciting add-on to your Alaska cruise or›your Rocky Mountaineer train journey, or you simply wish to discover Victoria for a day, cruising to Vancouver Island on this stylish 242-passenger high-speed catamaran is an opportunity to spend the voyage learning about the rich culture in the region. Sailing directly from downtown Vancouver past Stanley Park, across the Salish Sea and…

Holland America Line’s Land+Sea Journeys let you extend your Alaska adventure into the wild interior of Alaska and the Yukon. And who better to show you the Great Land? Holland America Line’s experiences are carefully crafted to reflect the best of Alaska, and even allow you to choose your own path. A Land+Sea Journey may take you to the foot of mighty Denali or venture further to the unspoiled reaches of the Yukon (an experience offered by no other cruise company). The Land+Sea Journeys program allows Holland America Line to focus on this majestic destination and experience while offering guests its renowned combination of elegance and adventure in Alaska and the Yukon. NEED TO KNOW Holland America Line is the only cruise company that takes guests to the unspoiled reaches…

DAY ONE Long considered one of the world’s most liveable cities, Zurich wraps around the eponymous lake’s most westerly point, where you’ll find a vibrant Old Town containing cobbled streets, Reformation-era churches, leafy squares and artisanal boutiques spread either side of the Limmat river. It also contains some of Europe’s best shopping, with Bahnhofstrasse rivalling London’s Regent Street and Paris’s Avenue des Champs-Elysées as one of the planet’s most exclusive shopping strips. Easy day excursions include the Rhine Falls in Schaffhausen or to the alpine meadows that stole Heidi’s heart, above the village of Maienfeld. Insider tip: Sip hot chocolate in Zurich’s oldest cafe, Conditorei Schober, in the Old Town’s ‘sweet corner’. Stay: Hotel Ambassador, Zurich DAY TWO Nuzzled up against the German and French borders an hour…

Medieval Steingasse is one of the oldest streets in Salzburg, and although it was once the main route out of the city, along which horse-drawn wagons laden with salt would clatter all day, today it feels like one of its quietest. I share the stillness of this narrow alley with only a few other pedestrians and a cyclist. I’m tempted by the warm glow of a cosy wine bar and a tiny arthouse cinema. It’s early December in the Austrian city just over the border from Germany – mountains forming its limits – and I’m stealing a moment of calm while excitement ensues in the Altstadt across the Salzach river. Christmas is one of Salzburg’s two peak seasons for good reason. Not only does its skyline, defined by Baroque towers…

Strategically located north of Iran, with 800 kilometres of coastline along the Caspian Sea, and south of the Caucasus Mountains where Europe, Asia and the Middle East meet, Azerbaijan is one of the fastest-emerging destinations in this complex and compelling region. Once part of the Persian Empire, Azerbaijan was an independent nation from 1918 to 1920 before being incorporated into the Soviet Union; it declared independence again on 30 August 1991. Today the country has a population of nearly 10 million, 95 per cent of whom are Muslim. With its rich history, culture, traditions and unique political background, it has much to offer the intrepid traveller who invests the time and effort to get there. On a two-week small group tour of the Caucasus, Azerbaijan is the first country I…

A DAY OUT IN PALERMO SOHO Spend a day in Buenos Aires’ cool arts district, from morning coffee to speakeasy cocktails. 1 LIBROS DEL PASAJE Start the day with coffee and a slice of carrot cake at this bookstore’s cafe, then check out the bewildering array of tomes and magazines stacked on wheeled tables and organised across towering shelves accessed with ladders. It all looks a little ramshackle, but that’s Soho. 2 GALERIA MAR DULCE Find something to take home in this lovely light-filled space that houses a carefully curated mix of painting, sculpture and other mediums by contemporary Uruguayan and Argentinian artists; the boutique gallery is run by Scottish ex-pat Linda and her Argentine printmaker husband Ral. 3 PLAZA SERRANO MARKET Palermo Soho happens to have one of the…

THE HIGHS & LOWS High: INK 360 boasts stunning sunset views over Vietnam’s Phu Quoc island, the hottest of hotspots right now. Sitting on the 19th floor of the new InterContinental Phu Quoc Long Beach Resort (pictured), and with a sophisticated design aesthetic courtesy of Australian Ashley Sutton, this bar has a cocktail menu that combines traditional flavours and textures with a modern sensibility. Try the signature Uncle Ho Penicillin, which includes whisky, lemon juice, Phu Quoc honey, ginger syrup, Lapsang Souchong and the unusual addition of ‘black cardamom air’. phuquoc.intercontinental.com/ink-360 Low: Upstairs at Cattivo in the London suburb of Brixton is a convivial cafe serving a southern Italian-inspired menu, but downstairs the underground speakeasy bar has louche lighting and cosy booths, as well as a quirky menu…

WHERE IT IS: The Canadian city of Toronto, in the funky West Queen West neighbourhood. WHY WE LOVE IT: With a minimalist aesthetic creeping back into more and more hotel design, The Drake will reassure even the most exuberant maximalist that there is hope yet. Its klieg-bright colour palette imbibes its 19 rooms and one suite with a punch of character and fun, while its art-hung walls hint at the creative neighbourhood that the hotel inhabits. WHAT TO BORROW: Don’t be afraid of colour and don’t feel like you have to stick to a stringent colour palette; mix it all back with more refined lines in your furniture choices so the effect is not too over the top. designhotels.com…

There are a lot of hotels in Bangkok. So, so many. But even though plenty are located in the city, precious few are really a part of the city. Yet far from the skyscraper-set is Raweekanlaya (rahwee-KUN-ly-ah), a boutique hotel whose rather romantic heritage has informed its present-day prettiness and undeniable charm. This was the original residence of the royal governess of King Rama VI back in the late 1800s; he was quite the wordsmith and has inspired the poetry and inscriptions throughout Raweekanlaya, from those on the bedroom walls to little signs waxing lyrical among the lucious garden plants. I arrive in the late evening and find my room fragrant thanks to an oil burner on the floor, yet wetter than I usually like due to the dripping air…

The city that never sleeps could easily be known as the city that always eats, so mind-boggling is the choice when it comes to food. In a metropolis of 8.6 million people and roughly 26,000 restaurants it could be argued that happening upon a place with a great vibe and fabulous food could be little more than chance, a fortuitous combination of access and luck. But word of mouth also plays a major role in a restaurant’s success in such a cluttered landscape; without it I never would have had a chance of finding my way to Salvation Taco in Midtown or knowing that behind the rather seedy door was a colourful taqueria serving up some seriously good mod-Mex with an international twist. Located in the Pod 39 Hotel and…

Sun International’s Sunlux Collection invites you to discover Africa’s wonders on a truly soul-intriguing journey, from Cape Town’s landmark The Table Bay, within the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront; to the gracious Boardwalk in South Africa’s friendliest city, Port Elizabeth; Sun City’s The Palace of the Lost City, nestled in an extinct volcanic crater surrounded by the Pilanesberg Big-5 nature reserve; the timeless Time Square in Menlyn Maine, Pretoria; and the heart of Johannesburg’s Sandton at The Maslow. THE PALACE: BE INTRIGUED BY THE ANCIENT From its inception in 1992, The Palace has enthralled and amazed visitors from all over the globe. This addition to South Africa’s Pilanesberg landscape is dwarfed in years by the 1.3-billion-year-old extinct volcanic site on which it is built; it’s the perfect base from which to…

There is a new wave of wellbeing on the tropical archipelago oasis of the Maldives with the opening of The Westin Maldives Miriandhoo Resort and its brand new combination of 70 amazing overwater and island villas and suites. The resort is an idyllic paradise in the UNESCO-listed Baa Atoll Biosphere Reserve and takes inspiration from the ‘shape of the water’, the marine life of the Atoll and the elements of water, sun and wind. It has been designed to maximise environmental sustainability whilst providing a supremely luxurious and tranquil Maldivian escape. NEED TO KNOW The resort is an idyllic paradise in the UNESCO-listed Baa Atoll Biosphere Reserve. LOCATION: Being nestled on this beautiful coral island in the Biosphere Reserve gives guests of The Westin Maldives Miriandhoo Resort uninterrupted ocean and…

DAY ONE 7AM: Start the day early with a sunrise yoga class at Desa Seni Village Resort. The bamboo open-air studio is set against lush, green tropical plants with cheeky wildlife wandering past. Not only can you practise lizard pose, but you may be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of one slowly ambling across the grass. 8.40AM: After a delicious poolside breakfast, your personal driver will take you to Kuda P Stables, a 20-minute drive to Pererenan black-sand beach. The stables are Australian-owned with 50 years’ horse handling experience. A one-and-a-half-hour ride will take you through rural beachside countryside of lush green rice paddies where farmers busily tend to their crops. 10.45AM: Time to jump back in the car and take a short drive to Echo Beach. It is…

It can be heard as a whisper on the Coconut Wireless: “The Chinese are coming…” On an island that measures 32 kilometres in circumference with a permanent population of some 15,000, rumours complete a lap of Rarotonga faster than you can drive around it, transmitted via tongues and ears, the island’s own special form of rapid wireless communication. And the drama and mythos behind this particular whisper is such that it has taken on legendary status and will no doubt continue to circulate, literally, and morph with each passing mention for many years to come. “The Chinese are coming…” I hear it; somewhere in my subconscious as I gaze out of a car window at Rarotonga’s green, knife-like mountain peaks, en route to our accommodation. “Sorry, what?” I ask, snapping…

When I check into the Palihotel Seattle, I find Simon lounging in the lobby. Well mannered and congenial yet a little scruffy, the West Highland white terrier that belongs to the property’s owners perfectly embodies what Seattle is today. Once the blue-collar birthplace of grunge and now the high-tech home of Amazon and Microsoft, the city has a booming food and wine scene, an obsession with contemporary art and culture, and, of course, a live music sector unrivalled for its vibrancy. Still a little rough around the edges, Seattle is an intoxicating mix of grit, glamour, high fliers and hipsters and, it must be said, also one of the most welcoming cities you’ll ever visit. I discover this when I arrive jetlagged at the Palihotel Seattle, in a rock star…

GHOST OF A CHANCE Scotland has weird and wonderful cultural items – think haggis and the bagpipes for starters – to offer visitors, but its latest tourism initiative will send shivers up the spine, literally. The country’s recently launched Ghost Trail will enable travellers to experience the rich history of the nation through stories of spirits and spooks including two green ladies, Jacobite soldiers and a headless drummer in Edinburgh (pictured). Taking in everything from graveyards to castles to battlefields, the self-guided macabre map can be downloaded from visitscotland.com/ghosttrail FLYING HIGH Flying brooms are stealing the focus from planes for travellers at Changi Airport in Singapore with the installation of Harry Potter’s magical wizarding world in three of its award-winning terminals. Until February, passengers spending time in the oft-recognised best…

TIM HO WAN You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see the crowd milling on the footpath outside Tim Ho Wan in Central waiting for a table. Inside diners are squeezed shoulder to shoulder and the dim sum comes thick and fast, the hero dish being the pork buns: golden orbs of flaky, buttery pastry filled with an unctuous sweet pork filling. timhowan.com MAK’S NOODLE Located on Wellington Street in Central, an epicentre of no-fuss one-star or Michelin-recommended eateries, Mak’s Noodle’s restaurant space has cute green booths and convivial staff who deliver little bowls of piping hot noodle soup with plump prawn wontons, made fresh to order by a busy chef. maksnoodle.sg TSIM CHAI KEE The service is brusque, but in an endearing way; the ladies who work…

A lot can happen in 25 years, especially in an incredible place like the Indochina region, yet this is the amount of time Insider Journeys has pioneered travel here. They continue to give travellers the opportunity to experience some of the world’s yet-to-be explored and less-understood places, helping travellers to both create and immerse themselves in unique experiences and help build memories that are fit to last a lifetime. You may be itching to experience the energy of a vibrant city like Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), explore the ancient temples of Cambodia, cruise the Mekong Delta, relax on a tropical beach or do all the above; if so, Insider Journeys’ selection of Small Group Journeys, private tours, short stays and river cruises can give you genuine insights into these…

When it comes to travel ambitions, they don’t get much loftier than Elva Johnson’s lifelong dream. Watching Sputnik zooming overhead at the tender age of 21, Elva resolved to go to space herself within her lifetime. However, at 83 years of age now, she’s settling… to simply be the oldest woman to travel to both the North and South Poles. “In 1984, I remember, I wrote this down as a goal, in case I couldn’t get to space after all,” Elva says. “I have exploration in my genes and wanted to leave a legacy for my own grandchildren and great grandchildren; I wanted to go where other people don’t go.” The goal was shelved for quite a few years, but unlike so many travellers, as Elva aged, her resolve only…

Getting from A to B in Japan is ridiculously easy – there are trains and planes dashing this way and that constantly, linking compelling cities, regions and islands that each possess traditions and culture that beg to be experienced. Ōita is one such place, an undiscovered gem nestled on the island of Kyushu. To get the best of both worlds, stay a few days in the Japanese capital of Tokyo, searching out interesting neighbourhoods and unique experiences, before jumping on a plane for the approximately 90-minute flight into Ōita Airport (ANA and JAL both have regular flights). Here, the perfect itinerary for four days of discovery. DAY 1 Start your exploration of Tokyo by strolling the pavements of Kappabashi Dougu Street (located between Asakusa and Ueno, both accessible by train),…

Whether you want to spend your entire time chilling out by the pool or catching up with friends in one of the bars, the classic Balinese resort that is Hyatt Regency Bali has plenty of space and opportunities for you to completely recharge; it’s the perfect tropical escape. Originally built on a coconut plantation, the resort is blessed with the widest beachfront in the region and has the largest garden on the island. Families will enjoy the laid-back Sanur vibe, while couples will revel in its romantic, old-school charm. With 363 newly renovated rooms and facilities, the resort is eminently comfortable while at the same time retaining an authentic Balinese feel. NEED TO KNOW LOCATION: The Hyatt Regency Bali is right on the main street of Sanur with 500 metres…

It starts with the pounding of enormous deer skin drums and high-pitched chanting that calls hundreds of dancers into the Pow Wow Grand Entry, feathers catching the wind, dazzling coloured beads gleaming in the late afternoon sunshine, ankle bells jingling. “You’re listening to the heartbeat of a nation,” booms the announcer as he welcomes tribal leaders, contestants, family members and spectators to the United Tribes Technical College 48th International Pow Wow in Bismarck, North Dakota. It is one of the major Native American dance and song celebrations that take place across the United States. This is not the America that many visitors, or indeed many non-indigenous Americans, know much about. Yet it is as rich a cultural experience as you’re likely to enjoy anywhere on the globe. The colour and…

Buenos Aires has an excellent reputation for regenerating grand old masterpieces of buildings and ushering them into the 21st century. Here, two remarkable restorations to explore. KIRCHNER CULTURAL CENTRE Formerly the Buenos Aires Central Post Office, which opened in 1928, the towering Beaux-Arts style Kirchner Cultural Centre (pictured) looks like it’s been plucked straight from Paris. So state-worthy was it that President Juan Perón moved his offices there in the ’40s and his wife Eva took over a wing for her charitable foundation. In 2015 it started a new life as an arts space and home of the Argentine Symphony Orchestra. USINA DEL ARTE You can see the Florentine-style bell tower of this former power station from across the city. Built in 1916, it reopened as a cultural centre in…

WHAT IS YOUR FIRST MEMORY OF TRAVELLING? In 1968, when I was four, my father purchased an Austin minibus second hand from the set of The Thunderbirds. He converted it into a campervan and we headed off on a road trip from London to Colombo, Sri Lanka. My mum called it Operation Ant and Bee; I was stung in the eye by a bee, and the ants were constantly eating our food along the way. WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT TRAVEL? Always having new experiences, testing cuisines and working with chefs from around the world. WHERE ARE YOU PLANNING ON GOING NEXT? Dubai (1), in my role as culinary ambassador for Dilmah Tea. WHAT ARE YOUR GO-TO FOOD DESTINATIONS AROUND THE WORLD? Sri Lanka (2), Thailand (3), France (4),…