Innholdsfortegnelse for Jun/Jul/Aug 2018 i International Traveller

On 25 January 1890, American journalist Nellie Bly arrived home in New Jersey after 72 days circumnavigating the globe solo. She had travelled by train, steamship, rickshaw, horse and donkey for New York World, after pitching the unprecedented idea to her editor and contesting concerns that a man would better suit the task. Bly succeeded in her aim to beat Phileas Fogg’s fictional journey as mapped out 17 years earlier in Around the World in Eighty Days, but also beat journalist Elizabeth Bisland, who had been sent around the globe in the other direction by Cosmopolitan, in a bid to rival Bly and capitalise on her wave of publicity.…

EGYPTIAN SPINY-TAILED LIZARD Also known as a ‘dhub’, this reptile lends its name to the shorter walking trail you can do in the wetlands, where you’ll see it basking and scurrying about among the dunes. It’s a surprisingly big animal (up to 76 centimetres) with a barbed tail harking back to a prehistoric era. GREATER FLAMINGO These elegant birds have a decidedly inelegant honking call.They’re picky about where they decide to lay their eggs, which is why their sudden arrival in this industrial area was so surprising. They dine on the abundant brine shrimps here and lay a single egg on a mud-made nest. BLACK-WINGED STILT With a ridiculously long leg-to-body ratio like their pink compatriots, these awkward-looking birds are common throughout the UAE; watch them as they seemingly balance…

The country you can’t get enough of WINNER ITALY WHY YOU LOVE IT SO… The question isn’t why you love it so, but why wouldn’t you? Italy holds a unique place in Australian travellers’ imaginations as a destination that offers up endless diverse wonders to be seen and truly savoured: you consistently mention the history, the scenery, the food, the people, the shopping, the style, and liberally use words like ‘beautiful’ and ‘amazing’ when describing it. But our favourite feedback from you has to be this: “Just feeling the pebble paths beneath my feet brings so much bliss!” Now that’s amore. RUNNERS-UP 2. USA 3. Japan 4. France 5. New Zealand OUR TOP TIP With the allures of Italy attracting more and more visitors, finding destinations that offer up the…

Rua das Janelas Verdes, 92 1200-692 Lisbon, Portugal; palacio-ramalhete.com THE IT VERDICT A real charmer chock-full of old-school Portuguese style, with many interesting spaces to enjoy and a rooftop pool that’s a boon in summer. LOCATION: 8 / 10 The hotel is in the quiet, untouristy Janelas Verdes district, not far from the Tagus River. It’s a little out of the way of the main Lisbon attractions in Chiado, Bairro Alto and Alfama. STYLE/CHARACTER: 9 / 10 It feels like you are staying in an elegant home, which isn’t too far from the truth. SERVICE: 9 / 10 Friendly and professional bilingual staff are happy to make restaurant bookings and deliver drinks to the poolside terrace. ROOMS: 9 / 10 Each of the 16 bedrooms is beautifully distinctive, from the…

San Sebastián isn’t turning it on today but no amount of rainfall could dampen my mood. We’re a few weeks into a six-month working holiday so, in hindsight, I could have been a little more thrifty. But since we’re in the holy land of tapas and txakoli (local Basque wine) for my husband’s birthday, after discovering this gorgeous guesthouse on Instagram I’d booked quicker than you can say, “how many Euros?” Set within a 19th-century mansion on the river (ibaia, in the local Basque language), with five rooms and one apartment, Ibaia et Arramak is all Belle Époque on the outside and Nordic-hipster on the inside. At reception we’re showered with recommendations for the best restaurants and pintxos bars to visit during our stay, then follow bubbly manager, Beatriz, up…

GETTING THERE Scenic’s 11-Day Normandy & Gems of the Seine sails round-trip from Paris and stops at Les Andelys, Rouen, Honfleur, Caudebec-en-Caux, Vernon and Conflans. PLAYING THERE Offering an all-inclusive luxury experience for just 128 guests, the Scenic Gem is specifically designed to sail along the river Seine from Paris right into the port of Honfleur at the river’s mouth (many other river cruise ships must dock up-river and transport their passengers to Honfleur by bus); $6645 per person twin share for a standard suite and $9290 per person twin share in a balcony cabin, departing Paris on 10 October 2019. Fares include all on-board meals and drinks, shore excursions, complimentary mini-bar, free wi-fi, butler service, airport transfers and all tips and gratuities. scenic.com.au…

GETTING THERE Thai Airways operates four weekly direct flights from Bangkok to Vienna with connections from Brisbane, Melbourne, Perth and Sydney. thaiairways.com STAYING THERE Hotel Sacher is a Viennese icon. Opulent, historic and home of the Sacher-Torte, it is located opposite the State Opera House. sacher.com Hotel Topazz is a boutique offering in the first district inspired by Vienna’s modernists, most notably Koloman Moser. hoteltopazz.com EATING THERE Restaurant Zum Schwarzes Kameel is another Viennese institution, serving classic fare. Dating back to 1618, it was redesigned in 1901 in Art Nouveau style. kameel.at Labstelle is where elegant Vienna is given a contemporary twist, with stylish interior design and a creative, local produce-driven menu. labstelle.at Gmoakeller is a typical Viennese beisl – or bistro – and is big on…

I’m having a spiritual moment; in a clearing on a forested hillside in temperatures that feel like they would be unlikely to be nudging double figures, I’m standing in a circle with my ungloved hands hovering just millimetres above the equally bare extremities of my guides on either side. We have roped an unsuspecting young Taiwanese tourist into our almost hand-holding quorum; she is too sweet to refuse, offering up her own bare hands with mild confusion to form another link in our chain. Her boyfriend has shuffled off awkwardly lest he is asked to do the same. I have clocked up visits to myriad breathtaking temples and shrines, and experienced ceremonies of such exquisite beauty that I have been moved on an almost hourly basis. My guide tells us…

DISNEY HAS RAMPED UP THE CUTE WITH THE OPENING OF THE NEW TOY STORY LAND AT DISNEY’S HOLLYWOOD STUDIOS AT WALT DISNEY WORLD RESORT IN FLORIDA ON 30 JUNE. WITH ATTRACTIONS LIKE THE SLINKY DOG DASH, ALIEN SWIRLING SAUCERS AND TOY STORY MANIA!, AS WELL AS A DEDICATED EATERY, WOODY’S LUNCH BOX, AND CHARACTER ENCOUNTERS ADDING TO THE FUN (DISNEYWORLD.DISNEY.GO.COM). OVER AT DISNEYLAND RESORT IN CALIFORNIA, THE IMAGINATIVE WORLDS OF PIXAR GET A NEW HOME WITH THE OPENING OF PIXAR PIER ON 23 JUNE. AT ITS HEART IS A HIGH-ENERGY INCREDIBLES-THEMED ATTRACTION, THE INCREDICOASTER, PLUS FOUR PIXAR-THEMED NEIGHBOURHOODS( DISNEYLAND.DISNEY.GO.COM).…

13 JULY – 29 OCTOBER MAKE ME BEAUTIFUL, MADAME D’ORA: THE PHOTOGRAPHER D’ORA 1907-1957, VIENNA, AUSTRIA The Leopold Museum presents an exhibition devoted to 20th century Vienna’s pre-eminent fashion and portrait photographer. In her studio, Dora Kallmus, or Madame D’Ora, captured the greats: the first artist she photographed was Klimt and the last was Picasso. leopoldmuseum.org UNTIL 8 OCTOBER HEAVENLY BODIES: FASHION AND THE CATHOLIC IMAGINATION, NEW YORK CITY, USA This Costume Institute exhibition, which ties into the star-studded Met Gala, takes place across 25 galleries at The Met Fifth Avenue and The Met Cloisters. Featuring works of designers from the early 20th century to the present day – from Chanel to Versace (pictured) and Galliano – who have been influenced by the Catholic church, alongside liturgical…

An excellent cruising holiday includes intuitive, attentive service, luxuriously appointed staterooms and sensational dining – and Holland America Line has already got that down perfectly, to more than 425 of the world’s great ports of call no less. However, a really outstanding, once-in-a-lifetime cruising holiday – one that you’ll remember forever – takes more than just a ship to move you. So – what moves you? What will take you deeper? The cruise line’s brand new EXC In-Depth Voyages will take you there, body and soul. Both onboard and onshore activities have been themed into six categories: photography; food, wine and spirits; active exploration; nature and science; history and perspective; arts and culture. You might like to theme your entire journey a single way, or choose from the range of…

FORT REVENGE , AI ISLAND An expansive fort built by the English in 1616, before being captured by the Dutch. FORT BELGICA, BANDANEIRA ISLAND Built by the Dutch East India Company in 1672, the fort is a pentagonal structure mirroring an early blueprint of the Pentagon. FORTRESS HOLLANDIA , LONTHOR ISLAND Built by the Dutch in 1624 with four small bastions. FORT NASSAU, BANDANEIRA ISLAND The Portuguese laid its foundations in 1529, before the Dutch completion in 1609 – it was the Dutch East India Company’s headquarters until Fort Belgica was completed. KOMPLEX ISTANA MINI A mini palace complex containing the Dutch Colonial Governor’s house and office.…

Phuket, Thailand is a popular destination for travellers seeking sun, sea and beach parties. But for those also wanting some solitude, there are plenty of full-service resorts to cater to their every whim. I’m at the tail-end of what has been a fun girls’ getaway; and am now after an overnight sanctuary for a solo stay, to rest up before flying home. SALA Phuket Resort and Spa ticks the right boxes: a secluded boutique property with an oceanfront setting, and an impressive range of facilities that more than meet my holiday needs. Right from the start, the resort oozes tranquility. Check-in at reception – bordered by a calming Chinese water garden – is welcomely unhurried; while scarlet sofas, glossy black furnishings, and a ceiling of bird cages dangling with crystal…

Calle Larramendi 2, 20006 San Sebastián, Spain; ibaiaetarramak.com THE IT VERDICT A historic guesthouse turned contemporary design lover’s home away from home. LOCATION: 9 / 10 River out front, shopping one block away, and the beaches and an endless supply of pintxos are within a 15-minute walk. STYLE/CHARACTER: 9 / 10 The winning combination of concrete, soaring ceilings, swathes of natural light and natty design touches gives it a homely feel. SERVICE: 8 / 10 While we didn’t see another soul after checking in, staff were helpful with directions and recommendations and happy to hold luggage before our room was available. ROOMS: 8 / 10 Carefully curated with the kind of bed you wish you could take home with you, though the en suite with its glass door left little…

GETTING THERE Flights from Australia connect via LAX to Los Cabos International Airport, 13 kilometres north of San José del Cabo. Many visitors to Los Cabos build their stay into a California trip. visitloscabos.travel STAYING THERE Rooms at El Ganzo start from $330 per night in low season (July to September). elganzo.com EATING THERE Flora’s Field Kitchen serves breakfast, lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday and brunch on Sunday. flora-farms.com PLAYING THERE San José del Cabo Art Walk is held on Thursdays from 5-9pm between November and June. artcabo.com…

The check-in desk at The Whitby Hotel is staffed by a multi-coloured patchwork sausage dog and a velvety lop-eared rabbit. Made from mismatched fabrics salvaged from the leftovers of the hotel’s interior designer Kit Kemp, the two stuffed animals on the countertop are at once quirky, colourful and comforting, much like the New York boutique bolthole itself. Kemp and her husband Tim, founders of the Firmdale Hotel group that includes the Ham Yard and Covent Garden hotels in London and New York’s Crosby Street Hotel, believe staying in a hotel should not be a stuffy experience – bar the aforementioned sentinels on arrival – but rather a welcoming celebration of art and design and The Whitby more than delivers on all counts. The experience begins in the lobby, where a…

Collecting stamps has been a rite-of-passage hobby for generations, the age old art of sifting through tiny, colourful rectangles that tell myriad stories about the countries that print them, from their heroes to their history. And it’s these unique tales that make them great travel souvenirs: buy vintage examples at stamp and coin markets on your journeys (European cities often have regular dedicated stamp markets, or flea markets are a good bet) or just head to the local post office and pick out the designs you like. IT…

When our taxi delivers us to the Palacio Ramalhete in the heart of Lisbon, we’re not sure if we have the correct address. There’s no grand hotel entrance and it takes us a while to find the small sign and buzzer to ring. It is nothing if not discreet and feels more like staying in the home of a wealthy family than a boutique hotel: dating back to the 18th century, it was built as an urban palace. There’s a click and we push open the heavy wooden door into a cool stone entrance area. As we lug our bags up the large steps a friendly young woman comes down to give us a hand. We deal with formalities at the small elegant reception desk before she takes us up…

333 Moo 3 Mai Khao Beach, Thalang District, Phuket, Thailand; salaphuket.com THE IT VERDICT An accessible and affordable piece of paradise that feels a million miles away from holidaying hordes. LOCATION: 8 / 10 Secluded but an easy driving distance from the airport and tourist attractions. STYLE / CHARACTER: 8 / 10 A stylish yet serene mix of heritage architecture and modern facilities. SERVICE: 8 / 10 Pleasant and professional. ROOMS: 8 / 10 Comfortable, with ample outdoor areas for lounging. Closet space is limited. FOOD AND DRINK: 8 / 10 Versatile and varied, despite there being just one restaurant on-site. VALUE FOR MONEY: 9 / 10 I paid $340 for a Deluxe Balcony room with breakfast, and got upgraded to a Garden Pool Villa.…

International Traveller welcomes you to enter the Travel Associates ‘Opening doors to amazing travel experiences’ photography competition. Travel Associates opens the door to unique and amazing travel experiences and wants you to provide your best professional-standard travel photos following the theme of ‘Doorways’ that you may have photographed around the world. Bring your inspiration and submit your photos at internationaltraveller.com for the chance to have your photos featured in Travel Associates’ digital and print activity over the next 12 months, and be in the running to win a photography package valued at $5000. Entries open on Thursday 7 June and close on Friday 31 August. TRAVEL ASSOCIATES Travel Associates is a boutique travel agency with a total focus on uncompromising customer service. Every year we inspire travellers to broaden their…

GETTING THERE Virgin Australia flies to Faleolo International Airport, Apia, from Sydney and Brisbane. virginaustralia.com STAYING THERE Seabreeze Resort is a boutique, adults-only resort with 11 villas, a waterfront bar and restaurant and a wood-fire pizzeria located in a garden enclave, on the south-east coast of Samoa’s main island, Upolu (over-13s are permitted in the restaurant). Rates start from $380 per room per night and include an à la carte breakfast, turndown service and use of glass-bottom kayaks and snorkelling equipment. seabreezesamoa.com…

GUSTAV KLIMT (1862–1918) The son of a gold engraver, Gustav Klimt was a pioneer of Art Nouveau (also known by the German term, Jugendstil) and co-founded the Vienna Secession in 1897. Most famous for his painting The Kiss (Lovers), which hangs alongside other key works including Judith and the Head of Holofernes at the Belvedere Museum, Klimt was Vienna’s grand master of painting in the early 1900s, a portrait artist of the rich and famous. Don’t miss his work in permanent collections at the Belvedere, Leopold Museum and Secession Building. Special exhibitions in 2018 include those at the Leopold Museum, the MAK – Austrian Museum of Applied Arts/Contemporary Art, and the Klimt Villa (the artist’s studio during the final years of his life). EGON SCHIELE (1890–1918) Egon Schiele was the…

GETTING THERE Air New Zealand flies regularly to Queenstown from all major Australian cities. The Hollyford Track team will pick you up from Queenstown or from Te Anau on the way through following the pre-walk briefing. PLAYING THERE The walking season runs from October to April. The three-day, two-night trek costs from $1769 including transfers, two nights’ lodge accommodation and meals. You’ll be given a daypack with provisions, water and a raincoat for when the weather turns. hollyfordtrack.com…

WIN ONE OF THREE PAIRS OF PASSES TO THE PLAZA PREMIUM BRISBANE OR PLAZA PREMIUM MELBOURNE LOUNGES Plaza Premium Lounge has now opened its second Australian pay-as-you-go airport lounge in Melbourne Airport, offering an airline lounge experience for everybody. With a lounge already in Brisbane, the company also has lounges in some of the most popular Aussie layover and stopover destinations such as Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Beijing, Vancouver, Rome and Abu Dhabi. plaza-network.com Q. Which airport is the best in the world and why? WIN A KATHMANDU FEDERATE ADAPT PACK VALUED AT $449.98 The innovative Federate Adapt Pack is a carry-on you can also check in and use as a daypack; a versatile ‘three pack sizes in one’ adventure travel essential. With a removable packing cell and breathable…

FRONT AND CENTRAL Bustling since the Victorian era, the Central Market is the place to go to get a read on the diverse ethnic make-up of Mauritius and shop for everything from souvenirs to island fresh produce to traditional Chinese medicines. You can also sample local dishes of fritters, roti, curries and dumplings. BLUE NOTE LOCATED ON THE CITY WATERFRONT, THIS MUSEUM HAS DISPLAYS DETAILING THE ART AND HISTORY OF MAURITIUS, BUT IT IS TWO TINY STAMPS ISSUED IN 1847 THAT MOST PEOPLE COME TO SEE – THEY ARE AMONG THE RAREST STAMPS IN THE WORLD AND ARE LIT FOR JUST 10 MINUTES EVERY HOUR DURING THE DAY.BLUEPENNYMUSEUM.COM SACRED GROUND WITH CONSTRUCTION STARTED IN 1850 AND ADDED TO OVER THE YEARS, THE JUMMAH MOSQUE IS A MIX OF INDIAN AND…