A point of clarification, before we begin: gelato is not ice cream. The two share a family resemblance, sure, but gelato is the sultrier cousin, whispering in Italian while ice cream bellows in American.
Gelato’s origins are pinned, somewhat theatrically, on Bernardo Buontalenti, a 16th-century Florentine architect who, between designing fortresses and opera sets, supposedly invented a frozen custard for the Medici court. Whether true or not, Florence clings to the tale, and Buontalenti’s name endures in the rich, eggy crema still enjoyed there today.
Its allure lies in its composition: where ice cream lumbers in with ten to 18 per cent butterfat, gelato glides by with a leaner 4 to 8 per cent; ice cream doubles its size with air (up to 100 per cent overrun) while gelato has…