Dessert, in most hands, is an afterthought—a polite send-off, a neat little flourish before the bill arrives. But for Will Goldfarb, it is the moment. “Delicious, hopefully, and beautiful. Lastly, interesting,” he says when asked to describe his approach. But if there’s one thing his decades-long career has proven, it’s that desserts, in his hands, are anything but ordinary.
Goldfarb’s dessert journey began in New York, where he made waves in the early 2000s with the first iteration of Room4Dessert, a radical dessert bar that pushed boundaries in ways the city wasn’t quite ready for. Trained in Paris and seasoned in the kitchens of El Bulli, Tetsuya’s and Cibreo, he had all the technical firepower but his instincts pulled him toward a more unconventional, mischievous form of pastry. New York…
