Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2020 i HELLO! Fashion Monthly

There’s much talk of slow fashion in the wake of the tumultuous past few months, and the need for the industry and consumers to be more mindful. However, as a style magazine, our job is to show you the trends and inspire you to make the right decisions when it comes to your wardrobe. Some of autumn’s key looks are timeless, others are bold statements. A woman whose style epitomises both is our cover star, Sofia Sanchez de Betak, the global traveller, fashion muse and designer. Sofia’s nomadic lifestyle has influenced her own brand, Chufy – hear about her colourful adventures on page 34.We also speak to three artisan creatives who believe in quality and craftsmanship, plus we introduce the black-owned beauty and fashion brands to champion. Dive in!…

POWER OF WOMEN The codes of the female wardrobe occupied the minds of many designers during fashion month. Fendi’s show was all about the strength of women, with dramatic plays on volume; at Miu Miu, we saw 40s-inspired cocktail gowns and at Brock Collection, classic empire lines and delicate face veils. Style tip Face-covering veils will be all the rage come party season. Ensure you opt for dark and delicate, shorter styles that feel more bijou than bride VICTORIAN DRAMA There is a level of decadence associated with the Victorian era, from velvet dresses and pie-crust collars, to pointed-toe, heeled boots. This season, we saw Paco Rabanne and Elie Saab incorporate the trend into their collections via neatly nipped waists and floral brocades. Style tip Work the look into your…

1. PIMPED-UP PONYTAILS Dressing up the humble ponytail has become somewhat of an art form – seen both on and off the runway. Try multiplying your hair slides, twisting in scarves and even weaving in layers of gold chains. We’re hailing it as jewellery for hair. 2. BOWS ON YOUR TOES Hello, pretties! These girlish heels with bows of every size and finish, from satin to embellished, are the shoe we’ll be turning to for long-awaited celebrations. Heck, even the supermarket run will be more fabulous when you’re wearing these. 3 PEARLS APLENTY A treasure trove of vintage-inspired jewellery box delights, it was the more the merrier when it came to wearing pearls this season. Layers and layers of pearly strings were piled on at Chanel and Prabal Gurung –…

London-based designer Richard Quinn launched his label after graduating from Central Saint Martins and has since gone on to make serious waves in the fashion industry. The label catapulted to fame in 2018, when he was presented with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design. Since then, his breathtaking catwalk shows have become synonymous with pure theatre, making him one of the biggest names on the fashion calendar. We caught up with him backstage after his AW20 show to find out more… What was the inspiration behind this collection? It was about creating the house of Richard Quinn for the set – where the models would live, in which rooms, all providing an element of surprise. Even on arrival it was a black backdrop and the doors opened…

Loely in leather Leather is still stealing the spotlight on fashion’s best-dressed, and knee-length shorts are the newest way to wear it Suit up The perfect accompaniment to smart shorts? A matching blazer. Keep it formal with a button-up shirt, or less conservative with a cut-out top Keep it simple No need for bold tones here, just stick to neutrals in block colours and let the shorts do the talking. If you’re a little more hue-happy, add coloured accessories GET THE LOOK…

QUIRKY MINIMALIST While rooted in minimalist Scandi design, Gestuz simultaneously rebels by subtly disrupting the classics. For AW20, buttery-soft leathers are accompanied by quirky prints, and neutral colour palettes are brought to life with flashes of neon. The accessories hold a cool girl edge, from the quilted bags and long leather gloves to the chunky lug-soled boots – it’s safe to say we want it all.…

FUTURE ICONS The soon-to-be cult products to invest in... 1. Bobbi Brown Vitamin-Enriched Eye Base, £34 It nourishes delicate under-eyes, while a shot of caffeine helps take down puffiness. 2. Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronised Multi-Recovery Complex, £82 This uses a molecule that maximises your skin’s ability to produce fresh cells, meaning, plumper and healthier-looking skin. 3. Guerlain Abeille Royale Cleansing Oil, £42 From a honey-scented oil to a milk, skin is left feeling cushionysoft and hydrated. DEEP CLEANSE The half up-do was seen at a string of shows this season, from ethereal waves tied with bows at Chanel, to vampy high-rise chignons at Rodarte. But before you wield your hairspray, massage Kérastase Chronologiste Pré-Cleanse Régénérant, £37.50, into roots before shampooing. Charcoal and hyaluronic acid combat product build-up, without…

The enchanting isle of Capri. Glistening azure waters, the scent of limoncello faintly wafting through the air and the piercing blue eyes and masterfully sculpted bronze limbs of Bianca Balti and David Gandy in those white trunks. One whiff of Light Blue and that’s where you’re taken. It’s an image you can’t shake, even if you wanted to. Growing up in Lodi, northern Italy, Bianca’s bedroom walls were lined with posters of “the one and only” Gisele in Dolce & Gabbana campaigns. Fate or destiny? “I started shooting look books and doing runways for the brand at the start of my career,” she reminisces. “But it wasn’t until I was chosen as the face of the iconic Light Blue fragrance [in 2013] that I knew I was going to be…

Afragrance for an independent thinker who breaks the rules to create her own, 2001 saw Chanel add Coco Mademoiselle to its perfume portfolio, and the scent couldn’t feel more significant nearly two decades later. A new take on the cult classic comes in the form of an evening scent to create the ultimate in luxury bedtime regimes. Delicate notes leave your hair, bedding and body softly scented of mandarin, rose and jasmine. ‘Sweet dreams’ has never rung so true……

It’s very strange, because we were not Sardinian people,” Angela Missoni tells us, when we do a FaceTime video call. “We were Adriatic people. My father was born in Dubrovnik and raised in Zardar, so we would spend vacations on the little islands in Dalmatia.” However, in the early 90s her parents Ottavio (Tai) and Rosita, who founded the knitwear brand known for its psychedelic patterns and multi-coloured zig-zag designs in 1953, discovered the haven at the northern peak of the island – that is coined the Emerald Coast. “My parents were invited by a lovely actress friend of theirs who was living there all year round. My mum fell in love with the vegetation and flowers – but also the beauty of the sea and the beach.” An energetic…

Everyone’s favourite party date, Derek Blasberg, is a journalist, writer and presenter. His fashion career began as a model, when he moved from St Louis, Missouri, to New York in 2000, aged 18 – where he has lived ever since. He soon began working for magazines and he’s contributed to W magazine, US Vogue, style.com and Garage. In 2010, he released his debut book and New York Times bestseller, Classy: Exceptional Advice For The Extremely Modern Lady, followed by its sequel. He’s collaborated with Karl Lagerfeld, David Bailey and artist Marilyn Minter; and for brands such as MAC, Chanel and Opening Ceremony. Presenting work has seen him front television show CNN Style, host a web series for Vanity Fair’s Conversation In The Backseat, which featured Reese Witherspoon, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and…

A veil of darkness shrouded the AW20 runways, with many designers showcasing a series of bold all-black looks. We saw this done best at Valentino, where creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli showcased his opening 25 head-to-toe looks as a means to explore the stereotypes of the female silhouette. HAUTE SOCIETY Hedi Slimane has firmly embedded 70s Parisian bourgeois as the new Celine look; all foppish frilled-front blouses and country check knee-length skirts. This season, however, feels more prosaic than parody, and you’ll most likely already have the key components hanging in your wardrobe. Style tip Considered styling is the key to mastering this look. Take inspiration from Hermès and Chloé – it’s all about belted blazers, sharp tailoring and a nonchalant attitude…

Sofia Sanchez de Betak has been feeling a sense of wanderlust. Global travel is her raison d’être and she has been, like the rest of the world, quite literally, grounded. ‘I WANTED TO CREATE SOMETHING THAT REMINDS ME OF A VERY SPECIAL MOMENT’ However, when we speak to the fashion consultant and brand ambassador, ahead of her HFM cover shoot, things are not at all bad. She’s sitting on a beach on the Balearic island of Mallorca, playing with her daughter Sakura. “Lockdown has ended here, and everything is back to normal, besides the tourists,” she says, of the enviable set-up. Normally, Sofia divides her time between New York, Paris and Mallorca, where she has homes. And when she’s not residing at one of those, she’s on a plane (“every…

I discovered Sika this summer and the London-based brand became an instant fashion favourite of mine. Creative director Phyllis Taylor, inspired by her west African heritage, works alongside a team of highly-skilled tailors in Ghana to create the most original collections of swishing sun-dresses and striking two pieces (see Radar, page 45). Sika has won an Ethical Fashion Forum award for its work in creating sustainable, fair employment. Another brand with sustainability at its slow-fashion heart is new British label Jean and Temple, whose timeless, responsibly-sourced cashmere, silk and wool essentials, such as this chocolate round-necked jumper (above), are the most useful of wardrobe additions. If that post-lockdown sartorial struggle is still proving an issue (living in workout gear can have that affect on a gal), I feel the solution…

1 SEVENTIES BROWNS A retro mood is looking through sepia-tinted glasses, with shades of camel, toasty burnished browns, cocoa and coffee 2 GREEN MACHINE Designers and the high street alike are championing all things green. Whether mint or khaki, these hues will lift darker looks come winter 3 OUT OF THE BLUE As Pantone’s colour of the year, classic blue has picked up sartorial momentum. It’s timeless, versatile and elegant in all of its simplicity 4 SUPER NEUTRAL Cleanse your palette with shades of cream, white and beige. Use them as the base and incorporate tonal prints, or go pure head-to-toe 5 SWEET THING Pink hues have gone from sickly sweet to standout. From pastel peony to dusky rosewood, wear as sharp tailoring or sumptuous knits…

WHAT AFFECTS PORE SIZE? If you’ve ever had a facial, you’ll know that there’s nothing more satisfying than a good extraction to leave your pores empty and refined. Alas, we’re a nation of ‘porexias’ – a term coined by dermatologists to explain our fixation with pores – whether that’s the size of them or our gruesome fascination with prodding, poking and squeezing them. The size of your pores is affected by factors like sun exposure and age, as well as genetics and skin type. If you have oily skin, pores will appear larger than if you have normal or dry skin because of the increased flow of oil, and while you probably hate them, they do have a purpose. “The pore’s function is to transport sebum to the surface of…

Use this TUB TIME This September is all about ‘Sleeptember’ and The Sleep Council suggests you treat yourself to a soak to help you sleep. Research published in Sleep Medicine Reviews found that taking a bath before bed could help you fall asleep quicker. How? One of the cues for sleep is a drop in body temperature. A warm (not hot) bath raises your body temperature, causing it to lower when you get out. Add Soapsmith Bath Soak in Lavender Hill, £25 (above), for added R&R. Visit soapsmith.com WORKOUT WARDROBE  Ladies, it’s time to familiarise yourself with Contur. Made with repurposed nylons, ocean plastics and recycled cotton, the high-performance activewear will sure add a little sparkle to your sweat sessions. Visit conturuk.com Do this JUST BREATHE “Breathing correctly positively impacts…

It’s clear that green is the official colour of the season, appearing in all shades, from mint at Paco Rabanne to emerald at Elie Saab. Is this green wave representative of the industry’s shifting focus to sustainability and addressing climate change? Maybe. Is it a nod to singer of the moment, Billie Eilish’s hair? Possibly that, too. PRINT WORKS Designers have drawn inspiration from the works of all kinds of artists this season. Roksanda opted for expressionist collages inspired by Lee Krasner, Givenchy had art-deco graphics nodding to Helena Almeida, while Kenzo’s creative director delved into the brand’s own painterly archives. Style tip No single print stole the limelight this season, it’s time to embrace them all. Rather than clashing prints, stick to one pattern in varying shades a la…

Economics graduate Jennifer Chamandi was a banker before returning to college to learn shoe design: “Don’t dream your life, live your dreams,” is her motto. She launched her own brand in 2016, ten days after giving birth to twin girls; and her unique Eye Of The Needle design was considered an invention by the UK Patent Office for “improvement to footwear design” as the strap actually holds the foot to the shoe resulting in better stability and comfort. Has your degree in economics helped with designing shoes? I have always said that shoes are the maths of fashion and take this quite literally when designing, from where fabrics meet, to the ankle strap sitting at a 90-degree angle on the foot. The design of my shoes is very complex: each…

The monogram is a prerequisite for any heritage brand: a versatile and recognisable insignia to adorn scarves; clothing; leather goods; jewellery and other accessories. Louis Vuitton’s interlocking LV design was a vanguard, which remains one of the most coveted and has been worn through decades by Audrey Hepburn, Naomi Campbell, Julianne Moore, Sarah Jessica Parker and Hailey Bieber. The French fashion house that was launched in 1854 is one of the oldest luxury brands in the world; and in the early days quickly grew in popularity thanks to its durable brown-coated canvas flat-top travel trunks that were designed like furniture with drawers and hangers. When Louis Vuitton opened his store on 4 Rue Neuve-des-Capucines in Paris, he sold a lifestyle – travel, innovation, culture, durability and French luxury. He marketed…

COMING UP ROSY A low-slung flush like this feels fresh and healthy. “Pinch your cheeks to reveal your natural blush,” suggests Ninni Nummela, the makeup artist who created the looks. Deeper shades, like a dark rose, tend to flatter darker skin tones (Ninni used Chanel Joues Contraste Powder Blush in Rouge Profond) and colder hues suit fairer skin – a pinky coral like Nars Orgasm X. MERLOT MOUTH Rich plums and blackcurrants can look just as striking as a pillarbox red. Opt for a matte lipstick to minimise touch-ups. First shape with Il Makiage Mineral Lip Liner and then fill in the whole lip as a base. “Apply your lipstick – I love Chanel Rouge Allure Ink, which is a long-wearing liquid matte. Then put a tissue over your mouth…

1. Lavender Hill Hand and Body Wash, £16, Soapsmith London was Samantha Jameson’s inspiration when creating Soapsmith. The beautiful Lavender Hill scent was named after the area known for growing and distilling lavender essential oil in the 18th century. 2. Foundation Brush, £12, Mented Mented was built on inclusion by KJ Miller and Amanda Johnson. From the perfect nude lip, to make-up that’s created for a plethora of different complexions and high-quality brushes, there’s something for everyone. 3. Glow Recovery Clay Mask, £18, The Afro Hair & Skin Co A finalist in the Black British Business Awards 2018, Ibi Meier-Oruitemeka drew on her love and expertise of wellness and beauty to create health-conscious products for black women. 4. Natural Gloss in Pink Sapphire, £16, Kitaka of London Kitaka of London…

Sarah Chapman Pro Pore Refiner, £128 Ultrasonic vibrations loosen congestion before the nozzle sucks out grime like a Dyson hoover. Clarins Clear-Out Blackhead Expert, £22 This 2-in1 has a stick to mattify and a mask to plough into pores and battle acne-causing bacteria. Dr Sam’s Flawless Nightly Serum, £39 Retinol plus bakuchioil (a kind-to-skin alternative) and calming niacinamide refine pores without irritation. Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Pore Perfecting & Refining Serum, £68 Seven exfoliants accelerate cell turnover, blast away debris and prevent future pore blockages. Garnier Ambre Solaire UV Face Fluid SPF 50+, £12 Non-greasy and non-ashy, the formula disappears and leaves a smooth matte base for your foundation.…

Read You Are a Rainbow: Essential Auras (£8.99, Pop Press). The second book to come from healer Emma Lucy Knowles will help you discover your aura and get to grips with its powers. Visit amazon.co.uk Download Mind Detox (£6.49 per month from the App Store) by clinical Harley Street hypnotherapist Fiona Lamb. Choose how you want to feel from a menu (think happy, sleepy and motivated) and a guided meditation will help you on your journey. This is so good for whirring minds that aren’t easily decelerated. Order Nuut Daily Balance, £49 for 14. Keep a sachet in your tote for when you just don’t have time to stop and eat. With 30% of your daily recommended vitamin and mineral intake, including calcium and vitamin D, the Aussie plant-based shakes…

1. Food TACO-TASTIC Casa Calavera’s “virtual culinary pop-up” is now available via Deliveroo, Supper and Uber Eats. The Mexican restaurant offers a contemporary menu with “innovative and refined twists” – dishes include grilled cactus, chipotle beef brisket and achiote chicken. hakkasangroup.com/casacalavera 2. Music FOXY MUSIC Grammy Award-winning singer, songwriter and model, Foxes (aka Louisa Rose Allen), released Too Much Colour last month and the second track from the Brit’s third album goes live this month. The London Fashion Week regular devised her stage moniker (which cunningly distinguishes her from fellow singer Lily Allen) after writing her first song Like Foxes Do, when her mum told her about a dream she’d had, about foxes making beautiful sounds while running down the street. iamfoxes.com 3 . Theatre STAND BY ME Beverley Knight…