Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2018 i Harper's Bazaar India

Errikos Andreou is a Mumbai-based photographer who believes in weaving emotions into his images. He studied at the University of Westminster and Central Saint Martins, and has worked as a full-time photographer since 2009. In this issue, he captures cover star Katrina Kaif in ‘Now You See Her’, pg 150. Suneet Varma is an Indian fashion designer who has worked in the industry for three decades, and creates clothing for the modern Indian woman. Here, he captures Lakshmi Rana in his first assignment as a photographer in ‘Visions Of Fashion’, pg 184. “I was clear that my first project would have to be with Bazaar, and so I approached Nonita with the idea of shooting a couture special.” Prashish More, a strong believer of minimalism, is a creative director, illustrator,…

1 THE MINIMAL EDIT A streamlined sensibility is this season’s key trend Colour RIOT Double up on jewel tones with Atsu’s magenta kurta layered over a printed lehenga Golden AGE Raw Mango’s luscious silk brocades lend themselves beautifully to a sleek and stylish tie-up jacket Precious MOMENTS Clean lines and fine diamond details make this timepiece by De GRISOGONO the perfect accessory for a night out White HOT An organza dupatta from Zoraya adds softness to a classic blazer and pants ensemble Under WRAPS Cinch a flowing silk kurta with this embroidered belt from Anamika Khanna See Where to Buy for details. Model: Naina Bhan at Alittlefly. Hair and makeup: Puja Taluja. Fashion assistant: Moumita Sarkar. 2 CURATORS COLUMN: A TURN TOWARDS MODERN In the second part of our deep…

NO 1 the finer details Asymmetrical hems and contrast stitching elevate the shirt dress NO 2 perfect harmony Contrast the richness of brocade by pairing it with a crisp under-layer NO 3 in the fold Pair a wrapped shirt with a pleated skirt for a more feminine look NO 4 at ease The perfect layering companion: Wear one under a utilitarian jumpsuit to make an impact NO 5 finishing touch Give a delicate tulle dress structure by pairing it with a solid shirt NO 6 crisp and cool Wear a classic cut with a leather jacket and statement necklace for easy off-duty dressing See Where to Buy for details. Model: Anoushka Virk at Purple Thoughts. Hair and makeup: Ashom Wangnao.…

“DNA TESTING TAKES THE GUESSING OUT OF SKINCARE. IT INDICATES THE RISK YOU CARRY FOR ACCELERATED SKIN A GEING.” If there’s one thing the beauty industry has in abundance, it’s options. A cleanser isn’t just a cleanser, for instance—it’s gel, foam, clay, powder, micellar, cream. How, then, can you choose what’s best for your skin? Well, let your DNA decide. All it takes is a swab of saliva. With technology reshaping beauty, one outcome is a hyper-customised approach. Bazaar speaks with the pioneers who formulate your daily regime, or tell you what to buy off the counter, based on the results of genetic testing. What does DNA tell you about a person’s skin? Dr Barbara Geusens, founder, Nomige: It indicates the risk you carry for accelerated skin ageing, depending on…

Leena Singh’s store at DLF Emporio, New Delhi, is only a glimpse of her brand, Ashima Leena. The real magic happens at her farmhouse studio, where she works on bespoke orders. Step inside the well-lit space, surrounded by lush greenery, and explore antique weaves she sources painstakingly from across India. Pure zari borders, intricate zardozi, and impeccable details, shining even in pieces over a hundred years old, recall old-world glory. The idea, says Singh, is to enjoy the heritage of our country. Which is why she restores the fabrics, a process that may take six months, and incorporates them in custom pieces for a niche clientele. A pure pashmina shawl with antique brocade appliqué, a sari with a vintage border sourced from Rajasthan combined with modern laser-cut work, a bright…

Online shopping can be a nightmare: Where to look, what to buy, why to trust it, and how to choose something truly exclusive? Niquesa, then, is a dream. A carefully curated marketplace, it brings together the most exceptional products created by local artisans worldwide. You’ll find everything from a cut glass crystal Port decanter, handcrafted in the Lake District, to 100-year-old balsamic vinegar extracted from historic barrels in Florence, to a £2,090 sterling silver honey pot set from one of the oldest and most prestigious silversmiths in England. The best part? Niquesa offers each member a 24/7 personal assistant. Really, it’s the only store you need. Here, founder and designer Elisabetta de Simone Niquesa talks about some of the most exclusive products on the site: Stevenson Brothers rocking horses They…

INTO THE WOODS All the wonder and mystery of forests, and the comfort of warm, woody notes come through here. Be swept away to the seaside with Sel de Vetiver’s fresh notes, or entranced by the hypnotic hemlock and sandalwood of Ormonde Woman. We love: Jo Malone London Orris & Sandalwood Cologne Intense, ₹10,400, The Different Company Sel de Vetiver, ₹12,600, and Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman, ₹14,400. THE SWEETEST THING Indulge your sweetest dreams, and skip the guilty aftermath. These scents bottle the toffee, caramel, and luscious honey that dessert fantasies are made of, but smooth away any saccharine edges with mellow woods and flowers. We love: Thierry Mugler Angel, ₹6,875, Guerlain La Petite Robe Noir, ₹9,450, and Amouroud Miel Sauvage, ₹12,990. PETAL POWER They run the gamut from virginal…

EVERY NEW FRAGRANCE SETS OUT TO BEGUILE. With its composition, and, in the case of the modern beauty business, through the campaign that introduces the idea of the perfume to the world. For Louis Vuitton’s collection of fine fragrances created by perfumer Jaques Cavalier-Belletrud, the fantasy is represented by Emma Stone: A modern, glamorous nomad in designer clothes and beautiful locales. The mini travelogue, directed by Sam Mendes was launched in September along with the brand’s new fragrance, Attrape-Rêves (dream catcher)—a composition of bergamot, ginger, Turkish rose, and, unexpectedly, cacao flower—which was inspired by the fleeting sensation of joy from watching shooting stars over an open sea. It is an olfactory imprint of the vibrancy and surprise of a moment. This is your second visual campaign as a Louis Vuitton…

“[Restoration of The Royal Opera House] took us more than six years, but it’s our gift to the city. I wanted to bring it back to its original glory.” “I USED TO WATCH MOVIES HERE,” says Her Highness, Maharanisaheba Kumud Kumari of Gondal, seated on one of the red velvet box seats at The Royal Opera House, Mumbai. “I’ve seen Jhanak Jhanak Payal Baaje (1955), Amar Akbar Anthony (1977), and a few more films. Even then this place was not as elaborate and well-restored as it is now.” She is referring to details such as the gilded Corinthian columns, elegant glass and crystal chandeliers, and expansive proscenium stage that are not just a dream for performers and audiences, but have also won The Royal Opera House the UNESCO Asia-Pacific Award…

In its 20th year, the MAMI Mumbai Film Festival continues to bring the best of independent world cinema to an Indian audience—from award-winning international films to arthouse Bollywood productions. Here, Kiran Rao, chairperson of MAMI, shares her top films from the upcoming edition, scheduled from October 25 to November 1. ColdWar by Pawel Pawlikowski The master of black and white, Pawel Pawlikowski returns with an epic romance set against Europe after the World War II. The film opened to rave reviews at Cannes this year and also picked up the best director award at the festival. Rafiki by Wanuri Kahiu Banned in Kenya due to its “clear intent to promote lesbianism”, this tender love story is especially relevant to India now that Article 377 has been rightfully dismantled. Shoplifters by Hirokazu Kore-Eda Often…

JUST FOR THIS LOVELY MOMENT, I’m living the dream. I spent some months writing a book, had a grand time doing it, and it’s poised to come out all over the world. It might sell; it might not. The dreamy part was working on it, talking to incredible people, typing madly while ignoring the reality that my table is too high and my chair too low and it hurts to sit here and why don’t I get a real desk… I’m proud of my book. But I’m not proud of the small part of me that cringes when people ask what I’m working on. This is how it goes: I meet someone at a dinner party. We do the obligatory nice-to-meet-you-what’s-your-connection-with-the-host-what-do-you-do. And of course they ask. “Are you working on…

I remember distinctly the exact moment I met my dear friend, the late, brilliant photographer Prabuddha Dasgupta. It was in August of 1990 and he was shooting an ensemble from one of my earliest collections on Feroze Gujral, who was a supermodel at the time. I was astonished at his ability to move around with such ease and capture incredibly exciting photos. We struck up a friendship that lasted for over two decades, as we continued our partnership of creating some brilliant pictures together, with me working as a designer and stylist. Prabuddha’s work spoke to me and inspired me to take up photography myself. Over the years I was also lucky to be able to collaborate with some of the best photographers of our times—Ashok Salian, Farrokh Chothia, Tarun…

THE FIRST TIME I REALISED THE TRUE MEANING OF BESPOKE was at a tony fashion event, with a guest list that read like the social register. My vertiginous high heels were so uncomfortable, they had shut my brain down. But my dress, which fit like a glove, felt like a ridiculously comfortable kaftan. At the end of the evening I thanked my companion, who also happened to be the designer of this incredible sheath. Against my many protests, Bibhu Mohapatra had taken a measuring tape to me with his trademark attention to detail. And the end result was a peerless outfit. But why am I surprised at the joys of made to measure? Bibhu reminded me that we grew up in a time when everything we owned was personalised. Our…

WHAT WILL BE INDIA’S ROLE IN DISRUPTING FASHION IN THE 21ST CENTURY? That’s a big question with even bigger ambitions. As the Indian fashion industry continues to respond to a growing consumer market, will its impact be felt only in sheer growth or will the country’s diverse cultural heritage have a role to play? The sari, of course, continues to inspire designers internationally from time to time. But its integral qualities of unstitched, adaptable draping are unlikely to have the kind of impact that the Japanese kimono had on mid 20th-century couture. While ethnic clothing is often posited as unique to India’s fashion industry, the dominance of power looms and Chinese imports undercuts any inherent claim to a cultural continuity that is somehow disruptive. They may be selling uniquely Indian…

If “I were a piece of jewellery, I'd be a statement hoop—classic, elegant, and versatile.” Suhani Parekh Misho (2016) Strong, architectural shapes for the sophisticate I think my love for jewellery began when I was allowed to access the vintage silver pieces my mother and grandmother wore. One of my favourites is a white gold ring that my mother would wear everyday. She gifted it to me before I moved to France for high school. It was my first time away from home, and the ring became a talisman that I didn’t take off for years. When I came across photos from my grandmother’s wedding I was blown away by the hair piece she was wearing: A stunning veni that went on to become a part of her braid. I…

Louis Vuitton reinterprets the style of heraldry to create jewellery that celebrates the power of women. Regalia, comprising 60 pieces and seven parures (a matched set or ornaments), features the brand’s two signature motifs: Flowers and the letter V. Brought together in one collection, they form a new kind of graphic, one that’s reminiscent of a quatrefoil or coat of arms. Apart from brilliant diamonds, the pieces feature rare stones like a 34.74 carat Paraiba tourmaline and a 19.97 carat tsavorite with mint green shades, a raspberry-coloured spinel, and an exceptional lavender blue sapphire. Regalia provides an impressive display of exemplary gem sourcing and design, but most striking is its evocations of laurel wreaths and fleur-de-lys that are distilled throughout the collection. SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS…

“I BELIEVE YOU SHOULD BE A GENTLEMAN, AND THAT’S OLD-FASHIONED.” —JOHN SCHNEIDER I am woefully old-fashioned. And furiously, often foolishly, fastidious. I have no interests in the larger luxuries of life. And I am not even remotely amused by the drudgeries of our times, like cars or watches or the first rows of airplanes. I am also deeply disappointed by the behaviour of the world. Wealth has become a harlot. Strutting her wares amongst people with just no taste. And in this world of hurriedness, there is not a quarter of quietude left. My biggest luxury is the quiet in my days. One that allows me to pursue the little luxuries of life. Like sealing an envelope with a graceful glue. Or gingerly opening a letter with a letter opener.…

LISA RAY ACTOR, WRITER, AND ACTIVIST “I’ve always been partial to jasmine: Its ability to personify a sense of illicit happiness even on an intense day, or an impersonal moment in a lift. Gajras sold during peak traffic in Mumbai remind me of the sacred in the everyday. I love jasmine so much that I made sure there were strings of it at my sangeet in Napa Valley—I wanted to be able to sink into a fragrance that gave me a sense of stolen moments during a public time. When I was approached to collaborate with ethical Canadian fragrance brand, The 7 Virtues, it was only natural that we created a scent based on jasmine. I chose a blend with orange, bergamot and cardamom called Jasmine of India. It is…

NESTLED IN THE FOOTHILLS OF THE OUTER HIMALAYAS and built over 25 acres, The Oberoi Sukhvilas Resort & Spa encourages complete surrender. And disconnecting from the debris of everyday life is easy when you can choose from private yoga sessions, mountain biking, walks around the verdant property, a three-night digital detox programme at the spa, or the utter privacy of your room, which is one of 60, and offers a beautiful view of the forest. We opted for the spa’s signature 90-minute Himalayan singing bowl massage. It began with an infrared sauna, which was followed by a dip in the hydrotherapy pool to relax the muscles. To start the massage, the therapist aligned metal bowls of various sizes down the body, in harmony with the seven chakras. Starting at the…

The first-ever Sotheby’s auction in India, scheduled to take place in Mumbai in December, celebrates the influence of South Asia on art. The sale features paintings, sculptures, photographs by Indian and international artists, from new names to the masters. The highlight? Durga Mahisasura Mardini, one of Tyeb Mehta’s most significant works. And if you’re new to auctions, Yamini Mehta has you covered. As Sotheby’s senior director, international head of Indian and South Asian art, here’s what she recommends: Reach out to Sotheby’s professionals for questions about a specific piece and where it falls in the artist’s body of work. They’re accessible, and educating audiences is a big part of what they do. Before the auction, develop a sense of your own aesthetic. Browse the galleries at NGMA in Delhi and…

The greatest lessons come from everyday experiences. Acclaimed author of The Last Song of Dusk (2004) and The Lost Flamingoes of Bombay (2009), Siddharth Dhanvant Shanghvi narrates his new tale, The Rabbit & The Squirrel (Penguin Random House), in the manner of a fable—metaphorical, simple, and reflective of society. Here, Shanghvi talks to Bazaar about the lingering appeal of a story told well. Tell us about the origin of The Rabbit & The Squirrel. I had no intention of publishing this book. It was a gift for a friend. I was staying at the home of my friends, Stina Wirsén and her husband Pompe Hedengren, in Stockholm while they were abroad. I came home one night to find the front door key did not work. Their neighbour called a locksmith…

SCORPIO OCTOBER 24-NOVEMBER 22 There are resources you would like to use, but you may be afraid to help yourself in fear of being told that you’re out of order. Don’t be so scared of misjudging an important situation that you’re robbed of your creativity and daring. LUCKY DAY 3rd—once you reverse a rushed decision, everybody’s happy. SAGITTARIUS NOVEMBER 23-DECEMBER 21 Ordinarily, you would steer away from a particular place or set of people, but fairly early in October, you’ll realise that what is being offered could be extremely relevant to your way of life. If a welcoming hand is extended, don’t be too proud to accept it. LUCKY DAY 15th—you raise an awkward topic and receive solid back up. CAPRICORN DECEMBER 22-JANUARY 20 Non-stop talk about your progress in…

I am walking down a street tucked away in Central Kolkata—a narrow winding lane crisscrossed by even skinnier bylanes where men still pull rickshaws by hand. There are lanes like this all over Kolkata with paan shops blaring music, roadside chowmein stands, signs for tuitions in science and mathematics. Suddenly I spot a faded red building, weeds growing out of its balcony, doors padlocked. It says there’s a temple inside, established by Radhakanta and Gopal Jeu in the Bengali year 1340. It’s 1425 now. In a street nearby, a statue of a muscled Greek god, perhaps Poseidon, juts out of the gateway. A concrete lion prowls overhead. A few doors down is an old mansion, with great open verandahs filled with potted plants and shuttered green windows. Part of the…

A Acne Studios www.acnestudios.com Aikeyah Delhi (072918 25361) Mumbai (022 2367 2418) Alpana Neeraj at notjustalabel.com Amazeology amazeology.co.in Amouroud www.amouroud.com AM:PM Delhi (011 4056 0240) Mumbai (022 4003 4074) Amrapali Delhi (098117 40900) Mumbai (022 2612 5001) Angana Nanavaty Jewelry at Le Mill, Mumbai (022 2204 1925) Anamika Khanna Delhi (011 6517 1010) Anomaly www.shopanomaly.in Aquazzura www.aquazzura.com Atsu www.atsu.in B Balmain at Le Mill, Mumbai (022 2204 1925) Becca at Sephora, Delhi (011 4151 8371) Sephora, Mumbai (022 4004 5180) Bennch www.bennch.com Bhane Delhi (088009 40700) Bloni Delhi (092838 37282) Bodice Delhi (096500 71122) BOLD London www.bold.london Bombay Perfumery Mumbai (098920 75432) Bottega Veneta Delhi (011 4609 8262) Mumbai (022 6615 2290) Buly 1803 www.buly1803.com Bulgari Delhi (011 4053 8620/23) C C.W. Dixey & Son www.cwdixeyandson.com Carolina Herrera at Shopper’s Stop outlets across the country Cartier Delhi (011 4678 8888)…

PERFECT MATCH RED SET GO BLACK MAGIC…

A model spaceship installed in the middle of the Louvre—this play of old and new set the scene for Louis Vuitton’s Fall 2018 womenswear collection’s runway show. This season, Nicolas Ghesquière took inspiration from the “women who helped me make my choices and build my aesthetic.” These Parisian women prefer prim pumps, elegant day dresses, and slim, knee-length skirts over sneakers and track pants. The artistic director, however, has updated that elegant aesthetic to make it contemporary, exciting, and wearable, perfect for Louis Vuitton’s ever-expanding global audience for ready-to-wear, which, as of his month, will include India. Of the pieces that are coming to the country, we’ve got our eye on the quintessentially French bouclé jackets decorated with metal chains and brooches, the asymmetric halter tops cinched with corset belts,…

Sandra Choi has a lot to do with why many stylish, modern women loves their Choos. At 17, she joined her uncle, the enigmatic Jimmy Choo, in his shoe business in East End of London as an apprentice. In the 22 years that she has been there, she has taken the label beyond its legacy of sky-high stilettos, adding bestsellers like gem-encrusted boots, snake print sneakers, and diversifying into accessories and ready-to-wear. A mother of two, Choi leads by instinct—that of a woman who straddles her many roles with absolute confidence. She speaks to Bazaar about her fascination with shoes and India as inspiration. Women have an intimate relationship with their shoes. How would you describe yours? I am a working mother, struggling to find a daily balance whilst juggling…

BORN INTO THE STORIED LONGCHAMP FAMILY, Sophie Delafontaine has helmed the company as its artistic director for over 20 years, and seen it grow to become a leading global name in accessories. Bazaar chats with the Paris-based designer on the launch of the new Amazone bag, which reinterprets the brand’s equestrian-inspired heritage with a decisively modern aesthetic. Harper’s Bazaar: Tell us about the new collection. Sophie Delafontaine: The Amazone line comes in a variety of styles—plain, padded, and velvet leathers with fringes, and so on. The design is inspired by riding accessories, and features braids, laces, prints, and embroideries. The horse, our original logo, is present throughout the collection as a link to our past. HB: For whom is this line designed? SD: When I created the Amazone line, I…

“I HAVE FOUND SOME AMAZING FABRICS FROM DIOR AND YSL. I ALSO HAVE A VERY RARE PRINT FROM SCHIAPARELLI FROM THE LATE-’50S.” Fabric can tell a story. And if you select it from the boutique of Charlotte Bialas, it’s the story of couture, told through rare, vintage silks from the 1930s-’80s. Her stunning archive of about 400 prints features fabrics from iconic designers—Atelier Sache, who worked with Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Dior, and Céline; the Swiss Maison Abraham, known for exquisite jacquards; and beautiful twill silks from Bianchini Ferier who worked, among others, with Lanvin and Patou. “I only go through recognised connoisseurs. There is a lot of history behind each fabric that I collect from each source, and that I verify through archives and sometimes museums. Recently, I sourced…

True luxury is sustainable. It demands a commitment to quality materials, timeless appeal, and the idea that less really is more. Now more than ever. Framing this in an Indian context is Mishcat Co, a design company that upcycles the finest leftover silk sari fibres to create statement carpets, each carded into spools of yarn and knotted by hand. “I didn’t want to just ride the sustainability wave to appeal to an environmentally-conscious audience. It was really important to also have an end product that you can’t tell is upcycled in the first place! And it was equally important for me to work with something culturally relevant and iconic—there could be nothing better in this aspect, than the sari,” says founder Ishrat Sahgal, who studied interior architecture at Rhode Island…

CRACK THE WHIP Sharp, sexy, animalic. Darker notes that add a little mystery and sophistication are well represented, and come blended with rich spices in African Leather, rose in Galope, and comforting vanilla, benzoin, and iris in the addictive Cuir Ottoman. We love: Hermès Galop, ₹15,600, Memo Paris African Leather, ₹15,000/75ml, and Parfum d’Empire Cuir Ottoman, ₹14100/100ml.…

Nathalie Pichard, founder of toPNotes—a fragrance training and evaluation company—and author of Web Fragrant Newsletter, gives us a handy cheat sheet with which to navigate notes. What’s the best way to pick the right fragrance in a store? Before picking a perfume, ask yourself some questions: What are your preferences, what makes you happy, what do you dislike—this information is the first step in the process. Then try different scents on a blotter card to pick up the top note. Next, spray the one you like most on your wrist [without rubbing], and smell it throughout the day to help you decide. What are notes in perfumery? Think of them as the ingredients that make up a fragrance. Its composition is like a pyramid with top, mid, and base notes.…

SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR DETAILS…

Relationships can alter the course of a life, permanently. In Fatima Bhutto’s engaging new novel, The Runaways, that thought takes centre stage. Anita Rose, a slum-dweller in Karachi and daughter of a maalish wali, forms an unlikely friendship with her elderly neighbour Osama. On the other side of the city, Monty, heir to his father’s large fortune, finds himself wanting more when a rebellious young girl joins his private school. And Sunny, a second-generation immigrant in England confused about his faith, discovers his purpose when his cousin comes back into his life. Their paths cross in the deserts of Mosul, revealing guarded secrets and calling into question modern Muslim identity. The three protagonists in The Runaways eventually find themselves in the same desert, guided by their individual beliefs. What is…

The most important part of a fresh cuppa every morning? Ensuring the tea leaves are stored correctly. Which means keeping them away from oxygen, light, heat, moisture, and strong smells. Teabox understands this all too well. Their handpicked teas are individually packaged in TeaPacs, sealed at the source using a natural nitrogen flush for freshness. And what’s more, their Tea Treasure, a wooden chest with a black and gold finish, offers an added layer of protection. It comes with 24 TeaPacs in six flavours, from Mountain Rose to Nilgiri White and Darjeeling Muscatel, making it an accessory as functional as it is beautiful. In.teabox.com…

The flagship Good Earth store in Mumbai transformed into a dreamlike, vintage setting last month, as the brand made its foray into couture. Called The Miniaturist, the collection featured Rajasthan’s gota patti textile craft in classic silhouettes like a ghagra-choli and even glamorous polo saris. Aqua-toned overlays in Kota silk, jade Chanderi chogas, velvet ghararas, and chiffon brocade kurtas, all embroidered with motifs in gota, harked back to the abundance of a time gone by. Along with details like the patka (sash) and patua (tassels), it also includes a range of accessories like baju bandhs, jhoomars, ear cuffs, and potlis, meticulously crafted with gota patti. Bazaar sits down with Anita Lal, the creative vision behind Good Earth, as she shares the story behind The Miniaturist and her eternal inspiration—India. Your…

A talented and precocious Turkish photographer Melvin Sokolsky joined Harper’s Bazaar in 1959, when he was only 21. Under design director Henry Wolfe, he produced a stunning series of images for a project dubbed Sokolsky’s Bubbles, as seen in the magazine’s March 1963 cover. Model Simone d’Aillencourt was photographed wearing a flowing haute couture dress and statement earrings. She was made to float in a plexiglass bubble suspended by a crane over the Seine in Paris, where the spring collections had just been shown that year. Besides being evidence of Bazaar’s creative vision, the enigmatic image combined high fashion with surrealism, just as luxury should be—slightly unattainable.…