Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2017 i Harper's Bazaar India

PEACOCK The peacock’s iridescent feathers and decadent beauty have inspired artists around the world. It features in Indus Valley tribal artefacts, Mughal miniatures, and Mauryan structures like the Sanchi Stupa and the Ashoka pillar in Nandangarh, Bihar. In Hinduism, the bird represents courtship, and is often associated with Radha-Krishna and their eternal love. Centuries later, it finds a place in fashion and design, from Alexander McQueen’s iconic Fall 2008 dress with cutout black lace peacocks to Rohit Bal’s recent collaboration with Good Earth, in which colourful dancing peacocks adorned homeware and apparel. For his Bolshoi Bazaar showcase in 2015, JJ Valaya rendered them in zardozi, while Rahul Mishra had them hand-embroidered amid flowers and branches in a stand-out lehenga in his 2016 Monsoon Diaries couture collection. LOTUS From the power…

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO’S SOFIA One ofthe brand’s best-selling products, the Sofia, which launched in 2009, payshomage to one ofSalvatoreFerragamo’s most loyal patrons, actor Sophia Loren. Meant to be inherited and not be just a fleeting It bag, its key details include the signature Gancio metal closure, soft handle, and a detachable shoulder strap. Available in four different sizes, its latest version from September last year is made with saddle soft leather and a meticulous technique that echoes the art ofmaster saddlemakers. LOUIS VUITTON’S SPEEDY For the past 85 years, the Speedy has been one of Louis Vuitton’s most recognised bags. Unveiled at a time when women’s emancipation was gathering strength in the 1930s, it aimed to signify freedom of movement and was positioned as a travel handbag. Over the years, the…

1. Jaquet Droz’s Petite Heure Minute Thousand Year Lights has a black lacquer, and a hand-engraved and hand-painted white mother-of-pearl dial. 2. At 38.2mm diametre, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rendez-Vous Night & Day Large has the biggest case the line has ever seen. 3. The diamond relief pattern on Audemars Piguet’s new Royal Oak Quartz moves from the dial onto the bezel and strap. 4. The Roger Dubuis Excalibur 36 Automatic features a blue PVD coated dial with a sunbrushed finish, and a bezel set with 42 blue sapphires. 5. Rado’s slimmest timepiece, the Thinline, gets a colourful update. 6. The new Panthère de Cartier lives up to its name in this diamonds and enamel version. 7. Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe has a new plasma grey ceramic case. All prices upon request.…

CHANEL NO 5 Ninety-six years ago Coco Chanel, with perfumer Ernest Beaux, created what would go on to become the world’s most recognised scent. Packaged in a simple rectangular flacon, the fragrance, easily distinguishable with its finely balanced aldehydes, citrus and florals, and deeper base notes of amber, sandalwood, and patchouli, was duly named No 5 because it was the fifth scent created by Beaux to show to Coco. According to Tilar Mazzeo, author of The Secret of Chanel No 5 (2010), after it had been finalised, Coco invited Beaux and friends to a popular restaurant to celebrate, and decided to spray the perfume around the table. Each woman that passed by stopped and enquired about it, cementing for Coco that it was going to be revolutionary. ELIZABETH ARDEN’S EIGHT HOUR…

I am 10 years old and I’m about to make the most important discovery of my life. In one of my mum’s fashion magazines, there is a section called Sex Talk. This word, it’s suddenly everywhere. Yesterday, a nun at my convent school scolded a senior girl for shouting “I Love Sex” on a dare. There’s also a song that plays on the radio: Let’s talk about sex baby… let’s talk about all the good things… which I’ve never heard the end of because my parents always hastily switch stations before the singers can elaborate on what all the good things are. I’m not completely clueless though. I’ve gathered some information from the playground andfrom cable television: Men and women get naked and do something between the sheets. Somehow it…

Your most recent read? Forgetting Things by Sigmund Freud. Your all-time favourite movie? The Shawshank Redemption, Good Will Hunting, A Revolutionary Road, The Reader... there are too many! A film you wish you’d been in? The Reader. Actors you would like to work with? Vicky Kaushal, Irrfan Khan, Michael Fassbender, and Edward Norton. What hangs on your walls? A Vision Mission. I have a wall where I put up things that remind me of where I’d like to be in the future. I like to wake up to that kind of positivity. A cause close to your heart? I work a lot with Kailash Satyarthi, the Noble Laureate. He works on child labour, education, and child sexual abuse. I want to be a voice for those who…

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Gone are the days when an editor could return from a month of fashion shows and pronounce with absolute authority that there would be a certain look for women in the coming season; for now we live in an era where style is as fragmented and eclectic as every other part of contemporary culture. Nevertheless, there was one message in the latest collections that seemed clearer than any other: ‘We Should All Be Feminists’, emblazoned across T-shirts at Dior, where Maria Grazia Chiuri made her debut as the first female creative director since the launch of the house 70 years ago. The slogan was a quote from the Nigerian writer Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, whose influential 2013 TEDx talk of the same title was given further prominence when Beyoncé sampled it…

11.11/eleven eleven Delhi (097118 63960) at Atosa, Mumbai (022 2605 2509) 3.1 Phillip Lim (www.31philliplim.com) A Abraham & Thakore Delhi (098717 74436) Bengaluru (080 4132 9316) Accessorize Delhi (011 4053 4522) Mumbai (022 4333 9994) Akaaro by Gaurav Jai Gupta Delhi (011 4070 1360) at Good Earth, Mumbai (022 2495 1954) American Apparel (store.americanapparel.net) Amoh by Jade Mumbai (022 2353 3635) Amrapali Delhi (011 4175 2024) Mumbai (022 2284 3687) Anavila Mumbai (098208 14910) Aniket Satnam (098330 05997) Anita Dongre Delhi (011 4103 5862) Mumbai (070456 69647) Anuj Bhutani Delhi (011 2651 9066) Mumbai (022 2353 0212) Aquamarine Mumbai (022 2202 0434) Audemars Piguet at Kapoor Watch Co., Delhi (011 4676 7777) at Time Avenue, Mumbai (022 2651 5757) Aurelle by Leshna Shah Mumbai (022 2870 1509) Azzedine Alaïa (www.alaia.fr)…

THE TERM ‘Thinking Fashion’ is unique to Harper’s Bazaar. It defines the legacy of a brand that gave print media legendary editors like Carmel Snow. The force behind the magazine from 1933-’57, it was Ms Snow who declared that Bazaar was “for the well-dressed woman with a well-dressed mind”. This thought changed the way the magazine approached style, which is why even today it stands apart. We used the same philosophy, the same rigour, when we put together our 8th anniversary issue. Legacy has never been more important to the brand—this year the original celebrates its 150th year. We began with the fabric of fashion. In India, the source of all design literally lies in its textile, its craft, its weave. We reached out to icons like Martand Singh, Rahul…

What happens when Coachella meets East Coast prep? The answer lies in the latest TommyXGigi collection. American designer Tommy Hilfiger showcased the sequel to his Spring 2017 collection, for which he collaborated with the supermodel from Malibu. At Los Angeles’s Venice Beach, the production titled ‘Tommyland’ was described by Hilfiger as a “multimedia fashion music festival”. There was a strong whiffof 1970s Americana but with a touch of whimsy. The Star-Spangled Banner was displayed on sleeveless shirts and cardigans, and also reworked into swimsuits and billowy dresses. For the Snapchat generation, there were emoji patches embroidered on sweatshirts and jackets. As an advocate of the ‘see-now, buy-now’ movement that is currently trending, Hilfiger believes in makinghisclothes immediately accessible to hisconsumers. To that effect, this limited-edition collection went online right after…

MONICA VAZIRALLI, STYLE MAVEN Vaziralli’s pachchikam necklaces, crafted in old Gujarati tradition, feature uncut diamonds on a base of silver, with the back encased in gold to keep the weight steady. “Not only is this kind of jewellery delicate, it is also rather rare to find it now,” she says. Vaziralli, who enjoys ornate jewellery, adds that she often wears her family’s antique pieces in quite the same way as it is styled here —with everyday outfits. “I love that this jewellery is not ostentatious. Its subtlety allows it to blend well with modern clothes. So it’s a very wearable item.” SIMONE SINGH, ACTOR “I only wear these pieces if I am heading out for a wedding,” confesses Singh, about her family’s striking smoked topaz-and-diamond ring, and diamond bracelet and…

WHERE YOU END, I BEGIN BY KANISHK THAROOR THE WOMAN I AM SUPPOSED to destroy sits naked on the edge of the bed, light fanning through the shutters on her soft weave of muscles. She rolls her head slowly from side to side and then, with the grace of a plant, stretches her arms above her head. I admire the simple proportion of her body, how each part moves in concert with the other. “Stay,” I say, “no need to rush off.” She smiles and returns to me, kissing my lips, then my neck, and my breasts, which feel so pronounced and excessive compared to hers. Her fingers wander down my torso. We make love again, and my sighs of pleasure are genuine. Afterwards, she falls asleep wrapped around my…

VEEJAY SAI IS A SELF-CONFESSED“KNOWLEDGE-HOARDER”. In the past, he has spent a month in remote villages inTamil Nadu, researching food habits that were prevalent between the 5th and 15th centuries; documented textile traditions; and studied the history of music instruments—how, for instance, the clay for the ghatam comes from Manamadurai in Tamil Nadu, and is baked at a precise temperature so it doesn’t sound too metallic or woody. His most recent learning endeavour, though, involves the performing arts—he has been travelling across India the past six years to piece together the lives of women in theatre in the century before Independence. The stories of 10 women now form his upcoming book, Drama Queens (Roli Books), which releases next month and documents India’s cultural history through sketches of these seminal stage…

Celebrated Bazaar photographer Richard Avedon’s passion for Paris is on display through his images, letters, and more in Avedon’s France. The Pakistani-British novelist Mohsin Hamid—whose 2007 book, The Reluctant Fundamentalist, was shortlisted for the Man Booker Prize—weaves a tale of modern migration in Exit West. Lauren Grodstein pens a poignant missive from a dying mother to her young son in Our Short History. And in the posthumous memoir Judy and I, Judy Garland’s third husband, the Hollywood producer Sid Luft, tells the story of their love and devotion.…

Contrary to popular perception, being from a film family does not guarantee a career beyond that first shot at fame. Still, there are few actors who have had an accelerated, fast-track growth such as Alia’s. “I’ve performed from instinct, responding to what comes from inside. Acting is second-nature to me, it’s not a job.” FIVE-YEAR-OLD ALIAwas at home when her half-sister Pooja Bhatt, a Bollywood leading lady back then, had stopped by dad Mahesh Bhatt’s place one morning, while on her way to a photo shoot.“This is around 1998-’99,” recalls Pooja. The two sisters are 21 years apart.“Even I want to get a photo shoot done,” Alia had told Pooja, who casually passed on her location’s address, just to keep her happy, and left. It was while Pooja…

FLIGHT OVER EGYPT November 1938 BY ANTOINE DE SAINT-EXUPÉRY The airplane has revealed the true face of the earth... The moment we take off, we are freed from those flexible roads that bend toward drink and shelter, or rush toward beautiful tree-shaded cities. Henceforth liberated from familiar servitudes, from dependence on the earth’s springs, we head straight for our far-off goals. It is only then, from the altitudes of these inhuman flights, that we discover the essential base of human existence, that we can see the foundation of rock, sand, and salt on which life, like a bit of moss in the hollow of a ruin, dare here and there to bloom. LES HALLES August 1937 BY JEAN COCTEAU The stranger who wants to know Paris must follow his…

CHOLA, SOHAYA MISRA, 40 BAZAAR LOVES: Chola’s eye for Victorian-era details like pussy bow necklines, mutton chop sleeves, and ruffled collars, which she interprets skillfully. Think little girl on the prairie with a strong dollop of punk. Brace yourself for layered maxi dresses, asymmetric jumpsuits, and voluminous tailored trousers. SPRING 2017: “This season, I’ve worked with prints for the first time. I was inspired by vintage tile patterns, and even though it was very difficult to do, we managed to print on a silk-satin weave called gajji silk, besides working on structured linen and organic cotton. So it was a challenge balancing out all three different materials.” DESIGN JOURNEY: “I started out as a stylist, although I studied psychology in college. The actor Manisha Koirala was a family friend and…

NO 1 easy drapes Pair the six yards with an achromatic bomber for a casual look. NO 2 balancing act Offset a pristine white kurta with bold baubles like a maangtika or an oversized ring. NO 3 free spirit Go bohemian in a diaphanous ghagra, accessorising it with layered anklets. NO 4 shiny happy Wear a gold choli with a metallic pink skirt. Stack matching bangles for a playful edge. NO 5 frills and fancies Give the humble churidar a delicate makeover by pairing it with a sheer dress. NO 6 comfort quotient Swap de rigueur bottoms with a pair of dhoti pants for a relaxed day. NO 7 opposites attract Give the formal trench dress an unusual upgrade—choose a sharara and contrasting dupatta to create drama. NO 8 all…

THE INCIDENT OF A FIRE IN2010at Helmut Lang’s space in SoHo, New York City, where he stored his archive of clothing designs, is a good starting point to understand his oeuvre. Lang, who stopped designing in 2005 to focus on art, destroyed whatever the fire didn’t claim, in an industrial shredder. He then mixed the resultant scraps with resin and white pigment, and fashioned them into pillar-like sculptures. The end of fashion, a beginning in art. The transformation of material into something that bears no resemblance to its original form. It is this thought that informs Lang’s work today. “I don’t have a preference of the materials I use. Some are found when I am interested in their scars from a previous life, which I want to implement in my…

From corners where drums filled with bright dyes pop out of the darkness to bales of multi-coloured cloth, each still of Machines looks like it’s straight out of a photographer’s portfolio. No wonder then that this film, on the lives of workers in a textile factory in Gujarat, won the award for excellence in cinematography at the Sundance Film Festival this year. “I wanted it to be hypnotically beautiful because then it is difficult to ignore,” says Rahul Jain, the director. Machines follows workers toiling for a monthly wage of 7,000, and highlights “the monotony of their assembly line lives, and their gradual dehumanisation”. As a child, Jain spent his summers around a similar factory owned by his grandfather, and remembers being fascinated by the machines. As he grew up,…

Victoria Lautman, a print and broadcast journalist, has been documenting hidden and decrepit stepwells in India for over five years. The results of her research now comprise her new coffee-table book, The Vanishing Stepwells of India, complete with stunning images and information on 75 such subterranean structures. Lautman’s degrees in archaeology and art history help illustrate their unique architecture and design. Here, she talks to Bazaar on her interest in the subject and the challenges of putting together the book. What was your first experience with stepwells? I saw my first stepwell 30 years ago, on my first trip to India. I was on a month-long tour with a group of architects and we were taken to the well-known Rudabai Vav in Adalaj, Gujarat. I had no idea what we…

“Someone should come to me with a proposal to do an Indian hotel—not just the interiors but also the construction, the exteriors, and the landscaping. I wouldn’t mind venturing into real estate either—I love working with spaces.” “The biggest love of my life used to be food, but now it’s actually become good health. I’ve just started walking in the morning and I feel very cheated that I’ve only discovered the joys of it now, at the age of 43. My morning walks give me so much clarity...” SABYASACHI MUKHERJEE SAYS HE HAS RECENTLY discovered the joys of a morning walk. And it shows. The Kolkatabased designer looks fitter and fresher than most 43-year-olds as he styles our eighth anniversary issue cover shoot. At the set in Mehboob Studio,…

CÉLINE STATE OF THE ART. GUINEVERE VAN SEENUS WEARS DRESS AND SANDALS, CÉLINE. BRA, AMERICAN APPAREL. BRIEFS, WOLFORD. BALENCIAGA SHOULDERING DIMENSION. CAROLYN MURPHY, FERNANDA LY, LINEISY MONTERO, ODETTE PAVLOVA, GIERDE DUKAUSKAITE, LITAY, AND DILONE WEAR CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES, BALENCIAGA. ESTÉE LAUDER DOUBLE WEAR NUDE CUSHION STICK RADIANT MAKEUP ( 3,500). FENDI DOUBLE VIEW. STELLA LUCIA AND FERNANDA WEAR DRESSES, FENDI. NEXXUS COLOR ASSURE GLOSSING TONIC FOR COLOURED HAIR ( 1,400 APPROX). GIORGIO ARMANI SHEER APPROACH. FERNANDA WEARS DRESS, GIORGIO ARMANI. GIORGIO ARMANI POWER FABRIC LONGWEAR HIGH COVERAGE FOUNDATION SPF 25 ( 4,400 APPROX). LOUIS VUITTON CURRENT ATTITUDE. JOAN SMALLS WEARS CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES, LOUIS VUITTON. ESTÉE LAUDER SUMPTUOUS KNOCKOUT DEFINING LIFT AND FAN MASCARA ( 2,500 APPROX). PRADA UNCONVENTIONAL. GUINEVERE WEARS COAT AND SHOES, PRADA. EARRING, JACOB & CO. PANTENE…

Designer JJ Valaya on the draw of the city of Jaisalmer Rajasthan remains a constant source of inspiration for me and I am convinced that when I was born in Jodhpur, its spirit of refined royalty and opulence became my own I HAVE ALWAYS MAINTAINED THAT I’M A TERRIBLE TOURIST BUT A FANTASTIC TRAVELLER. Because while I love discovering new places, I do so at my own pace, with no fixed agenda. I don’t meticulously plan my trip to ensure that I catch the usual sights within a stipulated time in the new land; instead, I choose to arrive in the city and then decide where I want to go or what I want to do. Internationally, and in India, this is my travel mantra. Which brings me to one…