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Radishes One of the easiest crops to grow, and among the speediest, too – you could get a crop in as little as four weeks. Radishes also take up very little space. They’re ideal for growing with kids and come in a range of shapes and colours. See p61 for how to grow. Thyme Buy a good-sized plant and you’ll be able to take pickings in no time, but let it settle in before harvesting too heavily. Plant in spring or autumn so that it’s established for winter and this herb will give you an all-year-round harvest. See p106 for how to grow. Rocket Another easy crop, peppery rocket can be grown in the ground or in pots. Sow in batches from March to September, and from the first crop…

Sowing and planting ● Sow seeds indoors into seed modules or a tray. Place your tray in a propagator, or cover with plastic or a clear plastic bag. ● Prick out the seedlings into small pots when about 5cm tall, and grow on before moving to their final location. Crop care Grow on in a greenhouse, or a sheltered site in full sun outdoors, although don’t move plants outside until all risk of frost has passed. Plant into large pots filled with compost. To encourage fruit, gently tap, shake or mist the flowers with water to help release the pollen, or entice bees into your greenhouse or sunny corner by planting other favourite pollinator plants nearby. Pinch out the growing tips of the main stems when 30cm high to encourage…

Sowing and planting ● Runner beans need a sunny spot in rich, moisture-retentive soil with plenty of well-rotted compost or manure added to it. Ideally, you’ll have done this the previous winter – but, if not, you can get away with digging it in just before you start planting. ● By sowing indoors in April (into deep pots), you’ll get better germination and earlier harvests. The seedlings will also be out of reach of slugs. Well-developed seedlings can be planted out after the last frost, usually around late May. You can make later sowings directly outside in May and June, but these won’t start cropping until July or August. ● If space is limited, grow runner beans in containers for an attractive and edible display – try ‘Painted Lady’, with…

Sowing and planting ● Cabbages can be sown all year and like a sunny spot and moist soil with plenty of well-rotted organic matter. Ideally, work this into the soil the previous autumn. ● Sow seeds indoors 2cm deep in pots or trays and place on a sunny windowsill. After about five weeks, plant the young cabbages outdoors. ● Spacing varies: grow spring cabbages 25cm apart, with 30cm between rows; summer cabbages 38cm apart, with 30cm between rows; autumn cabbages 45cm apart, with 45cm between rows; and winter cabbages, 45cm apart, with 60cm between rows. ● Club root is a soil-borne infection that distorts the roots and inhibits growth. It thrives in acidic soil, so check your soil’s pH by doing a pH test. If your soil is acidic, add…

Sowing and planting Start in March, sowing seeds into modules to grow on in a greenhouse. Or sow ‘radicchio’ types outdoors into well-prepared soil from late spring through the summer. Sow seeds 1.5cm deep and either broadcast sow (scatter seeds thinly over an area) or in rows 30cm apart and thin seedlings later. Crop care Chicory generally thrives in free-draining soil in full sun to partial shade. Thin out the seedlings to 25-30cm apart between plants and keep weed-free. Protect young plants in autumn to extend the growing season. 1 For ‘forcing’ varieties, lift the roots in November, throwing away the smaller ones. Cut back the leaves to 2.5cm and pack the roots horizontally in sand. Store them in a cool shed until needed. 2 To produce ‘chicons’ (leafy heads),…

Sowing and planting ● If you want to get an early start with Florence fennel, sow seeds into modules under cover. Sow one seed per module, as the seedlings do not like having their roots disturbed when transplanted. Water in well and keep moist. ● When the roots fill the modules, harden off the seedlings and plant them out into well-prepared and fertilised beds when there is no danger of frost. ● You can sow directly into well-prepared, warm soil later in the season. Place seeds in rows, approximately 1.5cm deep, thinning to 30cm apart. Crop care Florence fennel thrives in warm, sunny and moist conditions. The key to success is to prepare a bed of free-draining, fertile soil in an open site. Once your seedlings have been planted out,…

Sowing and planting ● Fill pots or seed trays with good-quality multi-purpose compost and firm gently. Scatter the seed thinly on the surface, cover with a few millimetres of compost, water in and keep moist. Pot on the seedlings individually into small pots. Altenatively, remove from the pot and pull the rootball apart, before placing it in a larger pot of compost and adding compost between the seedlings. ● To prepare the veg plot, fork the soil to remove all debris and large stones and break up any large clods. If necessary, incorporate some well-rotted manure or garden compost to improve soil texture and fertility. Transplant the leeks into the ground when they’re about 15-20cm tall. Use a broom handle to make holes 15-20cm deep and about 15cm apart. Leave…

Sowing and planting ● Parsnips need an open, sunny site and free-draining, well-worked soil, with no stones. But they don’t like overly fertile soil, so don’t dig in extra compost or manure. ● Sow seeds directly into the soil from mid-spring when the soil is warmer. Use fresh seeds as they don’t tend to keep from year to year. ● Be patient as parsnip seeds take their time to germinate. Crop care Parsnips have a very long growing season, which is needed so the plants can develop large roots. However, once the plants have established, they will more or less look after themselves. They don’t need lots of watering, except in really dry conditions. A good watering every 2-3 weeks should be fine. And they don’t need feeding through the…

Potatoes are categorised by the season in which they’re ready to harvest. ● Early – or new potatoes – are planted in March and harvested in late May to early July. ● Maincrop potatoes take longer to mature. Plant them in April and harvest in late summer/early autumn for crops to store into winter. Planting ● Grow your crop from seed potatoes, which are small tubers rather than seeds. They go on sale in late winter. Don’t be tempted to save old potatoes from the veg rack, as they won’t produce reliable crops. ● Before planting potatoes, you need to chit them to encourage shoots to form. Place in trays or egg cartons with the end that has the most ‘eyes’ uppermost. Place in a cool, light spot until the…

Sowing and planting ● Like other brassicas, Cauliflower ‘Romanesco’ thrives in a fairly heavy, alkaline soil – if your soil is acidic, just add lime. ● Choose a sheltered, sunny spot in soil that has been prepared in advance by digging in well-rotted farmyard manure. Tread the soil down to firm it. ● Sow seeds in late spring either in a prepared seedbed or in pots or seed trays in free-draining compost. When the seedlings are large enough to handle, thin them out to approximately 7cm apart. Once they have grown to 10cm, transplant them to their growing spot in the vegetable patch, planting 45cm apart in rows 60cm apart. ● Plant young romanesco plants deeply, and very firmly, to give each one stability and protect against swaying on windy…

Sowing and planting ● Sow spring onion seeds straight into the ground where they will grow. ● They need an open, sunny site and rich, free-draining soil. ● Clear any weeds and add a good fertiliser well in advance – if the soil is too acidic the onions will produce a lot of leafy top growth. Rake it to a fine texture and, if very dry, water 24 hours before sowing. ● Sow the seeds into drills approximately 1cm deep with 10cm between rows. Crop care Once your spring onion seedlings start to appear, thin them to 2.5cm-5cm apart. They need to be well-watered, so don’t let the soil dry out. Some varieties can also be grown as bulb onions, so it is possible to harvest some of your crop…

Sowing and planting ● Tomatoes grow in one of two ways – either as a bush, or trained as a cordon, which is a tall single stem. ● Sow seeds in 7.5cm pots of moist compost, top with a thin layer of vermiculite, water and cover with clingfilm. Place on a warm, bright windowsill, or in a propagator or greenhouse. ● When your seeds have germinated, remove the clingfilm or take out of the propagator, and keep the compost damp. ● Transplant seedlings when about 2-3cm high into 5cm pots of moist compost and return them to their original position. Keep potting on as necessary. Support stems by tying to a cane. ● Unless you are greenhouse growing, move plants outside after the last frost in May. Plant them in…

Planting ● Winter is the best time to plant bare-root apple trees. They are cheaper than container-grown ones and available in a wide range of varieties. ● Choose a site in full sun, ensuring there will be room for the branches to develop. If you have a small garden, trees can be trained and pruned as space-saving fans, cordons and espaliers against a wall, fence or trellis. ● Dig in plenty of well-rotted garden compost or manure before planting. Dig a large hole, hammer in a tree stake and position the tree. Hold the stem while you fill in around the roots with soil. ● Check that the graft point – a bulge on the stem where the rootstock was grafted on – sits just above soil level. Firm down…

Planting ● Cherry trees like a warm, sheltered, frost-free spot and well-drained, slightly acid soil. ● There are two types of fruiting cherry tree – sweet and acid. The acid cherry varieties are generally smaller and tolerate some shade, so can be grown against a north-facing boundary. These varieties are also self-fertile. ● Sweet cherries can be grown free-standing in larger spaces. Dwarf varieties can be fan-trained against a warm wall, or grown in containers, but they require plenty of sun. ● Some sweet cultivars need to be planted with a partner for pollination, so check when you choose your tree. ● Plant in winter when trees are dormant. Dig over the soil, adding well-rotted manure to the planting hole. You may need to use a stake to support a…

Planting ● Gooseberries aren’t fussy when it comes to soil type, but they do prefer it to be free-draining and contain plenty of well-rotted manure or garden compost. Full sun is best, especially for the sweeter dessert varieties, but they’re very tolerant of shade. ● Spring or autumn is the best time to plant bare-root bushes. Space them 1.5m apart, with a gap of 1.5m between the rows. ● Gooseberries grow well in large containers of soil-based compost. Mulch the surface to keep weeds at bay. Crop care Feed in early spring with sulphate of potash (follow packet instructions) and apply a thick mulch of well-rotted manure or compost. Water well during dry spells. Pruning Pruning is easy. In July or August, simply cut back this season’s soft growth to…

Planting ● Bare-root trees should be planted on a mild day, any time from November to March. Container-grown trees can go in at any time of year. ● Although they’re hardy in the UK (apart from the far north), the blossom and young fruits are vulnerable to frost. Grow trees against a south-or west-facing wall, or in a pot that you can move under cover for winter. ● Peaches and nectarines will tolerate most soils, but dig in plenty of well-rotted garden compost or manure before planting. For clay soil, improve drainage by filling the base of the planting hole with rubble. ● Both fruits have identical growing needs, but peaches are slightly hardier than nectarines. Nectarines grow best when trained against a warm wall or fence in a sunny,…

Planting ● Mild days in late autumn or early winter are a good time to plant raspberries. Choose an open, sunny spot. The soil should be free-draining with plenty of well-rotted garden compost or manure added. ● Before planting raspberries, give the roots a good soak in water. Space the canes 45cm apart, with 1.8m between rows. Just cover the roots with about 5cm of soil. Keep any white buds at the stem base at soil level. Firm the soil around each cane and water well. ● Canes are usually pre-pruned, ready to plant. If not, cut them down to 15-20cm. ● Several canes can also be planted together in a group in a border or a large container, tying them to a central support post as a feature. Crop…

Herbs are the most generous of plants. Not only do they attract bees and butterflies to the garden, they can transform a simple meal into a feast and have health benefits, too. There are so many herbs available for gardeners, but if you’re short on time and still want fresh pickings for your kitchen, perennial ones – those that live for several years – are ideal as they need little care and can be grown in a pot by the back door. The herbs that will save you money are annuals – sown fresh each spring – such as basil, coriander and dill. These are easy to grow, quick to establish and produce large crops. If you sow them every three to four weeks, you could be picking handfuls of…

Planting ● Sow dill seeds outdoors directly into well-prepared soil in a sheltered, sunny position. Sow the seeds thinly 1cm deep in rows 25cm apart. ● Dill can also be sown directly into large pots. Make regular sowings for a continuous supply of fresh leaves through the summer. ● If you want to get a head start, you can sow seeds under cover a little earlier in the season using plug trays. Plant out the plugs after all risk of frost has passed. ● Dill tends to bolt if its roots have been disturbed while planting. Crop care When the seedlings are large enough to handle, thin out to 25cm apart. Plants should be well watered, particularly during hot, dry weather, and keep weed-free to stop any competition for water…

Planting ● Sow seeds directly into well-prepared soil 1cm deep with 30cm between rows. Lightly cover the seeds and water them in well. When the seedlings are large enough, thin them to 15cm apart. ● Alternatively, if you have less space available, fill a pot with seed compost and sow seeds thinly, covering with a light layer of compost and watering in. Make sure the compost does not dry out. ● The seeds can take six weeks to germinate and seedlings should be thinned out and potted on when big enough. ● When moving them to a larger pot, use a moisture-retentive, soil-based compost to prevent young plants from drying out. ● Sow batches of seeds a few weeks apart so you have a continuous supply of parsley. Crop care…

Planting ● Sorrel thrives in a sunny or partially shady spot in fertile and moisture-retentive soil. It can be grown from seed but, as it’s a perennial plant, you can take root cuttings or divide from an existing plant. ● Sow sorrel seeds in spring in small pots filled with seed compost, water well then place somewhere light. The seeds will take up to six weeks to germinate. ● When the seedlings are large enough to handle, pot them up into individual containers. You can grow them on in containers or plant out later into borders. Crop care Keep sorrel plants well watered, particularly during dry weather, which can make plants run to seed. Keeping them moist will also encourage plenty of fresh new growth. Once your sorrel plants are…

When you’re just beginning to grow your own veg, success is all important, so stick to easy crops that give you rich reward – runner beans, courgettes, potatoes, salads and onions from sets are all good options. It’s vital to give your crops enough food and water, and keep weeding around your plants to get the best results. Check through the season for pests and diseases, but don’t panic if you have a few problems, or if some crops don’t perform as well as they might – you’ll still be rewarded with some kind of harvest. There are many ways to combat problems, especially if you spot them early. Try encouraging as many beneficial insects into your garden as possible to help keep down pests naturally – hoverflies and their…

It’s important to harvest crops at the right time to get the best flavour and maximum nutrients. If you pick crops when they are under-ripe or over-ripe, or when they’ve been left on the plant so long that they’ve become woody, stringy or so swollen with water, they will have lost virtually all their flavour. At the end of summer you may have a glut of produce, but there are plenty of ways to ensure you avoid waste – from making chutneys and preserves to freezing excess veg, such as runner beans and raspberries, and storing root veg through the winter. Pick at the right time It’s possible to tell when many crops are ready for harvesting by looking at them or giving them a squeeze. You’ll know if broad…

January Dig compost or well-rotted farmyard manure deeply into vegetable plots to improve the soil structure and fertility. Build raised beds using a kit or recycled lengths of timber. Plant new fruit trees and bushes. Prune apples and pears to limit the size and the shape of trees. Order vegetable seeds, onion and shallot sets, seed potatoes and asparagus from specialist mail-order suppliers. Sow onions, chillies, and sprouting seeds February Prepare beds by raking the soil level, breaking down lumps and removing stones. Cover clumps of rhubarb with forcing jars or old buckets to get early crops. Feed fruit with sulphate of potash to boost flowering and fruiting. Bring potted strawberries into the greenhouse or cover plants with cloches for earlier crops. Buy seed potatoes. Sow the following crops indoors…

Anyone can grow their own, no matter how limited the space. It’s a wonderful way to put fresh fruit and veg on the table, knowing it’s nutritious and delicious, and the only distance travelled is from the plot to the table. Everyone can have a go, and children love being involved. They’ll enjoy sowing large seeds such as courgettes, or planting strawberries – which are easy to grow and produce quick results. Don’t worry if you’ve got limited time or resources, as there’s still plenty you can grow. You can swap seeds with neighbours, family and friends or exchange produce when you’ve got too much. If you’re short on time, have a look at our time-saving tips for getting a head start on growing (see p11) and choose crops that…

Beginners may think that raising plants from seed is something best left to those with bags of experience, but in fact it’s surprisingly easy, fun and rewarding. The seeds of some tender crops need to be started off indoors early in the year, while hardier crops can be sown directly into the soil. But beware – growing plants from seed is addictive. Once you’ve experienced the thrill of seeing your first seedlings appear, you’ll find you can’t stop sowing! Sowing outdoors Some seeds can be sown directly into the soil outdoors, either by broadcast sowing (scattering over the soil) or in shallow trenches called drills. This makes the most of the available space and gives you easy access to plants for any maintenance work, weeding and harvesting. 1 Rake the…

Courgettes These are quick to germinate and easy to grow. Sow direct or plant out in late May (buy young plants to save time). One or two plants are plenty – they stay productive for weeks, providing you keep picking, otherwise they turn into marrows! See p46 for how to grow. Strawberries Once planted, strawberry plants should crop well for three or four years. Barely any maintenance is needed – just put a layer of straw or a strawberry mat underneath ripening fruit to stop them rotting on wet soil, tidy up the plants in spring and protect fruits from hungry birds. See p90 for how to grow. Dwarf French beans Sow in open ground or containers in mid-May to early August. They’re easy to look after, as no thinning…

The diversity of vegetables you can grow may seem a little bewildering if you’ve never had a go before, but if you stick to what you like to eat you won’t go far wrong. What you grow is up to you – if you hate cabbage, don’t grow it. Before you start, work out what your favourites are and how often your family eats them. Grow as much as you can of what you love to eat and make several separate sowings (known as successional sowing), so everything doesn’t ripen at the same time and swamp you. And take time to look for unusual crops that are expensive or hard to find in the shops – that way you’ll have a mix of your favourites and some special treats. The…

Sowing and planting Certain hardy varieties can be sown in autumn and will be ready for harvesting in seven to eight months. Spring-sown plants develop more quickly and will crop within about four months. Spring sowing is generally more reliable, especially in heavy clay soil, resulting in fewer losses than with autumn sowings. ● Before sowing, fork plenty of compost or manure into the planting area, then rake the surface to a fine texture. ● Mark out 5cm deep drills, with about 20cm between each, or sow as double rows 20cm apart. The seeds are large, so they’re very easy to sow. Simply space them about 20cm apart along the length of the drill. ● Cover the seeds with soil, firm it down and water in thoroughly. Crop care Cover…

Sowing and planting ● Sow seeds outdoors from mid-April to July in a 1cm deep drill. Space seeds 10cm apart, with 30cm between rows. As beetroot is a root crop, it does best if the soil is free of large stones, and prefers light to heavy soil. ● If you want an early crop, choose a variety resistant to bolting and sow under cloches from the beginning of March. ● It’s worth ‘station sowing’ seeds for a good crop. This means sowing two seeds at each point along the row and thinning later to one seedling. The thinnings are delicious in salads. Label the row, then water along its length. ● Beetroot also grows well in large pots of sifted garden soil or soil-based compost such such as John Innes…

Sowing and planting ● There are generally two types of carrot: early varieties that are sown in spring and ready to pick about 10 weeks later, and late varieties that are sown from the end of spring and are ready to lift in about 14-16 weeks. ● The main sowing season is late March to June, but earlier and later sowings are worth it if you can protect them with fleece or a cloche. ● Good soil preparation is essential. Fork it thoroughly to break up lumps and remove as many stones as possible. Carrots prefer a light, free-draining but moisture-retentive soil, so it’s worth adding some well-rotted organic matter. ● Carrots are best sown directly into the ground. Using the edge of a hoe or trowel, make a seed…

Sowing and planting ● For early crops, sow seeds indoors in mid-spring into pots or module trays filled with multi-purpose compost. For later crops, sow seeds outside in late spring. ● When seedlings appear, pot them on into larger pots. Grow on indoors until ready to plant outside in late spring, after the last frost. Space plants 90cm apart, then generously mulch the soil to hold in moisture. ● If you don’t have the time or space to sow seeds indoors, buy ready-grown plants from garden centres in late spring. Crop care Plenty of moisture is the key to success. A constantly just-moist soil is essential if plants are to crop to their full potential, so water regularly and apply a thick layer of mulch to hold water in the…

Planting ● Garlic is available for both autumn and spring planting. To grow well, it needs a period of cold weather, so autumn planting is preferable. If you have heavy clay soil, however, it’s best to wait until spring – this type of soil tends to hold a lot of water, especially over winter, which can cause the cloves to rot. ● To plant, split the bulbs into individual cloves and plant with the pointed end upwards. Take care not to damage the cloves when separating them. Space them about 18cm apart and plant at twice their own depth. ● Alternatively, start garlic off by planting cloves singly in module trays in autumn, then plant out in spring. If you have clay soil or a soil inclined to be wet…

Sowing and planting ● Prepare the soil by digging in lots of well-rotted garden compost before sowing. This improves moisture retention, and helps prevent lettuces from bolting in hot or dry weather – especially in light soils. ● Sow seeds thinly along a 1cm-deep drill (trench), made by pressing a bamboo cane into the soil. Cover the seeds thinly with soil (they germinate better with some light) and water them in. Leave 30cm between rows. ● When the seedlings are big enough to handle, thin out to 10-20cm apart. Use the thinnings in a salad. Water to re-settle the soil around the roots of the remaining plants. ● For a steady supply of lettuces, sow a small batch of seeds every 14 days from March through to September. Crop care…

Sowing and planting ● Peas are generally sown between March and early July. For earlier crops that are ready from May onwards, they can be sown in autumn or late winter, but you may experience losses from cold weather or hungry mice. ● Choose a sunny, free-draining spot, as pea plants dislike cold, wet soil. ● Dig in plenty of garden compost or well-rotted manure before sowing. ● For spring sowings, take a shallow trench, roughly 23cm wide and 3cm deep. Sow in two parallel lines, spacing the seeds about 10cm apart. Cover the seeds with soil, water well and label the row. ● Alternatively, start plants indoors in autumn to avoid seeds being eaten. This is the best method if your garden soil is heavy and very wet in…

Sowing and planting ● Sow seeds indoors in spring. Soak them in water overnight to speed up germination, then sow two seeds into 8cm pots filled with seed compost. Place the seeds on their edge, rather than flat, to stop water sitting on top and causing them to rot. Put them on a warm, light windowsill and water well. ● When the seedlings appear, remove the weaker one so the strongest has plenty of room to develop. ● Once the risk of frost has passed, in late May or early June, plant outside. Choose a sheltered, sunny spot and dig lots of garden compost into the soil. Insert a cane next to each plant and you’ll be able to find its centre for watering, no matter how large it grows.…

Sowing and planting ● Salad leaves grow well in poor soils, although reduce the risk of crops going to seed in hot summers by improving moisture retention. Adding plenty of well-rotted organic matter will help. ● Start sowing in March, as soon as the soil is workable, and continue until September (or longer if you cover plants with a cloche or fleece and choose winter varieties). ● Make sowings every two weeks to ensure continuous cropping. Prepare the seedbed by removing any weeds and stones and raking over the soil to create a fine texture. Next, make shallow drills about 1cm deep. Water along the drill and sprinkle seeds along the bottom. Cover thinly with soil or compost and water in gently. ● You can also grow small patches of…

Sowing and planting ● Sweetcorn is a tender plant, so choose a sunny, sheltered spot. Ideally, you should have dug in lots of well-rotted garden compost the previous autumn to feed the soil. ● Sow seeds in pots or modules of good-quality compost. The seedlings hate root disturbance, so it’s best to give each seed its own pot. Water well, then place on a sunny windowsill or in a greenhouse to germinate. ● Once all risk of frost is over, harden off young plants by putting them outdoors during the day for a week or so to acclimatise them to cooler conditions. Plant them outside in a sunny, sheltered spot, spacing plants in a grid (see below) at least 45cm apart. ● As sweetcorn is wind-pollinated, the plants must be…

Sowing and planting ● There are three types of turnip crop: early, maincrop and turnip tops. These can be sown at different times for a year-round crop. ● For early turnips, sow the seeds in February directly into the soil. Make a drill approximately 1cm deep and sow in rows 30cm apart. Protect these early sowings with a cloche. You can do a second sowing of early turnips from March to June. ● For maincrop turnips, sow from July to mid-August. If you are just after the leafy turnip tops, sow seeds in closer rows just 15cm apart. Crop care If you are growing turnips for their roots, thin seedlings to 15cm apart for the early smaller roots. Or if you want to grow showstopper-sized roots, leave a little more…

Planting ● Vigorous rather than rampant, cultivated blackberries are more civilised than their wild cousins. Tie the canes as they grow on to a system of wires against a wall or fence. ● Although fairly unfussy, blackberries will reward you with bumper crops if given full sun and free-draining soil enriched with garden compost. ● Buy bare-root plants – called stools – in winter. Soak before planting and bury each stool up to the old soil mark and firm it in. Water in well. ● Spacing is usually 1.5m but this depends on the vigour of the cultivar – check this with the nursery. Crop care Blackberries fruit on two-year-old canes. When you tie them in, keep new growth separate from the older fruiting canes to prevent any fungal diseases…

Planting ● Despite being closely related, redcurrants and whitecurrants have a different growth habit to blackcurrants. All three will tolerate most soils, apart from wet or poorly drained. They prefer a sunny spot that’s sheltered from cold winds, but red- and whitecurrants will cope with partial shade. ● Bare-root plants can be planted between October and early March in mild spells. Pot-grown plants can go in any time. ● Prepare the soil by digging in organic matter, such as well-rotted garden compost. Add a general-purpose fertiliser (follow the pack instructions) to the planting hole. ● Blackcurrants like to go in deep – 6cm deeper than the soil mark on the stem. Redcurrants and whitecurrants prefer to have the top of their rootball level with the surface. Firm down the soil…

Planting ● Grapevines are grafted onto rootstocks. When you buy a grapevine, you’ll see the join clearly visible, above the line of the soil in the pot. When you plant out your vine, this should remain above the soil. ● Choose a warm, sunny site, either against a wall or fence or with some other support. Vines will grow on most free-draining soils, provided they get plenty of sunlight. They can be grown successfully outdoors, but some varieties will crop more reliably if they have the heat and shelter of a greenhouse. ● The roots need plenty of space and good drainage – cold won’t affect growth, but damp roots will not make for a happy grapevine. So whether you are growing outdoors or indoors, prepare the soil well, digging…

Planting ● For best results, grow pear trees against a south-facing wall or fence, where they will be protected from frost. ● The soil should be free-draining and slightly acidic. ● Pear trees can be grown as standalone specimens, if space allows, or trained as espaliers or cordons which means they can be grown against walls or fences. ● Like apple trees, many varieties of pear trees rely on a pollinating partner from the same group. It’s therefore best to plant two pear trees to ensure they pollinate successfully and to encourage good healthy cropping. Plant the trees when dormant in late autumn/winter. ● Dig a generous hole for your trees, adding in plenty of well-rotted farmyard manure, before planting. Crop care Pear blossom appears in early spring, so watch…

Planting ● Rhubarb can be grown from seed, but it's more reliable to plant crowns. Crowns are offsets cut from divisions of vigorous parent plants – usually they are a piece of root with at least one visible dormant bud. These should be planted out in late autumn, 90cm or more apart, depending on the cultivar. ● Rhubarb will grow in a sunny, open site on a wide range of soils, as long as the soil has been well prepared with plenty of manure or compost. ● If you like a challenge, sow rhubarb seed outdoors in spring in a seed bed, thinning to 15cm apart and then once more to 30cm apart. The quality of seed-grown rhubarb can vary, however, so be ruthless in selecting the strongest plants to…

Planting ● Bay enjoys full sun or partial shade. It is not completely hardy – in exposed gardens it can only cope with temperatures down to about-5°C and can suffer from leaf damage. This is easily solved by covering plants with horticultural fleece in winter or moving them to a sheltered spot. ● Bay is more likely to make it through the winter unscathed if planted in a sheltered spot. It tends to be hardier when planted directly into the garden, as plants can put down a more comprehensive root system. If planted in the garden and left to grow unclipped, expect plants to reach up to 8m. Bay will grow on any soil as long as it is free-draining. ● Bay is a dioecious plant, which means it has…

Planting ● Sow chive seeds into a small pot or module and place in a heated propagator or on a warm windowsill. Chive seeds need between 20-25ºC to germinate. Within three weeks, seedlings should start to appear. ● There is no need to thin out unless your pot is very crowded. ● When the seedlings are about 5cm high, they can be moved from the propagator and transplanted into 15-20cm pots filled with soil-based or multi-purpose compost. ● Grow these young plants on in cooler conditions, taking care to harden them off for about a week before finally planting them outside. Crop care Chives prefer fertile, free-draining soil and are happy growing in sun or partial shade. Keep the plants well watered, particularly during hot weather. Pot-grown chives will need…

Planting ● Mint is a hardy perennial herb that’s easy to grow from young plants planted out in spring or autumn. It’s also easy to propagate from root cuttings (see Top Tip). ● Mint likes free-draining, fertile soil in light shade, where its roots will stay moist but never become waterlogged. ● Most mints are invasive, so you may want to restrict their roots by planting in a bottomless bucket sunk into the ground. Or grow in a container in free-draining, soil-based compost. ● Keep a couple of pots by the kitchen door – one to pick while the other grows. Crop care For the best flavour, keep cutting mint to stimulate new leafy growth. After flowering in late summer, cut back plants to just above soil level and feed…

Planting ● Rosemary seeds can take an age to germinate, so buy young plants, which are widely available. Alternatively, wait until after flowering and take cuttings from existing plants. ● Plant in spring or autumn. Although rosemary is frost-hardy, a combination of cold and waterlogging can kill young plants, so choose a sunny, sheltered spot with free-draining soil. If you have cold clay soil, dig in lots of bark, grit or leafmould to improve the drainage. Crop care Rosemary needs little maintenance during the year, except cutting back after flowering to prevent plants becoming straggly and excessively woody. Save the trimmings to propagate new plants. Rosemary does well in containers in a soil-based compost. Keep plants well watered during dry spells and feed with a general fertiliser during the growing…

Planting ● Young plants are widely available and easier to establish than seedlings. ● Plant in free-draining soil or gravel in spring or autumn. If growing in a container, use a soil-based compost with plenty of grit and keep the pot raised off the ground to provide free drainage. ● Originally from the Mediterranean, thyme prefers free-draining soil that is low in nutrients. ● Planting it in full sun brings the essential oils to the surface of the leaves and gives it great flavour. ● Essentially drought-loving, thyme needs protection from cold winds and wet winters. Crop care Trim thyme plants after they have finished flowering to promote new growth. This will give you more leaves to harvest through the winter. If you don’t tidy them up, the plants become…

Whether you’re concerned about the environment or want to save yourself some money, composting your waste and recycling water will have a positive impact on your garden, helping to keep soil and crops healthy. When you grow your own fruit and veg, you’ll generate lots of waste that can be recycled. Peelings, prunings, damaged crops, empty pods and spent plants that have been harvested can all be consigned to the compost bin. Here, conditions make the plant material rot down quickly into compost that can be used as a mulch or dug into the soil to improve its fertility. Add the right materials Do add Vegetable and fruit peelings Trimmings and leftovers Tea and coffee dregs Torn paper and card Soft plant waste Lawn mowings Farm manure Leafy weeds Straw…

There’s a wide range of delicious fruiting plants to choose from, of all shapes and sizes. In addition to their sweet, juicy harvests, many also offer flowers or structural interest. So get creative and put your fruit centre stage. Grow fruit against a wall Espalier or cordon apple trees are perfect, along with fan-trained cherry, plum and peach trees. Figs are another option, as well as delicious, succulent fruits, many varieties also have gorgeous, deeply lobed leaves. Although not widely grown, kiwi vines are becoming more readily available and are a good choice for a warm wall. As well as clusters of downy fruits, these vigorous climbers offer large, dramatic leaves and stems that are clad in red hairs. Other contenders include a grapevine, blackberries or raspberries. Choose the right…

Chillies These are colourful, attractive and trouble-free. Choose your favourite variety for heat and flavour and grow three plants in a large tub on the patio with a cane for support. They’ll provide ample crops, with enough left over to store over winter. See p56 for how to grow. Chives This herb has attractive flowers that bees love. It will thrive in a pot, ready for quick snippings to sprinkle over salads and soups, and it’s also easy to grow. Once the plant has filled the pot, divide the clump and make more plants for free. See p97 for how to grow. Potatoes Easy to grow in large pots, or a big bag such as an old compost bag, and they require little maintenance this way. Place seed potatoes on…

Sowing and planting ● Prepare the soil by thoroughly digging it over, removing any weeds and mixing in organic matter such as well-rotted manure. ● A week before planting, scatter general fertiliser over the area and fork in, then rake the ground level. ● Dig a trench, 30cm wide by 20cm deep, and part-fill with soil down its length to make a mound 10cm high. ● Take the asparagus crowns and place them 30cm apart on top of the mound, spreading out the roots on either side. ● Cover the crowns with 5cm of soil. As the plants grow, cover them with more soil, with the aim of eventually filling the trench. Crop care Keep newly planted crowns well watered until established and ensure the area is kept weed-free to…

Sowing and planting ● French beans need sun, shelter and a fertile, moisture-retentive soil. They don’t do well on heavy clay, so dig in plenty of well-rotted organic matter such as garden compost before planting. As a tender crop, they need to be sown indoors from April, then planted outside after the last frost, usually in late May or early June. ● For a supply of beans through to autumn, keep sowing every three weeks until early summer. Later sowings can be made outdoors, but seedlings need to be covered with a cloche to keep them warm. ● Dwarf French beans planted 15cm apart won’t need to be staked. ● Climbing French beans look particularly attractive grown with sweet peas on a wigwam of canes in the flower border. Crop…

Sowing and planting ● You can start sowing seeds in modules in late winter if you have a greenhouse. From early spring to mid-summer, sow outdoors every six weeks or so for a regular crop. ● Sow two seeds per pot or module. Thin to one when the seedlings have appeared and keep watering and feeding until the plants have four or five leaves, then plant out. ● Use traditional crop rotation methods. Plant out seedlings in beds where you previously grew beans. The soil will be much improved by the nitrogen-fixing properties of the legume family, which is great for healthy leaf growth. Crop care Broccoli prefers to be grown in full sun in free-draining alkaline soil. Add garden lime or mushroom compost to prepared beds where you are…

Sowing and planting ● Celeriac seeds can be hard to germinate. You can start them early in a heated propagator, or in mid-spring under cloches or in an unheated greenhouse. ● Sow into trays or modules and move to pots when the seedlings are big enough to handle but keep protected until all risk of frost has passed. A cold snap can cause plants to bolt prematurely, which means they won’t form the roots. Crop care Celeriac is a moisture-loving plant and requires a rich, moisture-retentive soil in full sun – the soil should never be allowed to dry out. As the plants mature, remove the outer leaves to expose the crown of the root and allow it to develop. Harvesting Harvest celeriac roots from October to March – the…

Sowing and planting ● Fill small 5cm pots with compost and sow two cucumber seeds per pot and water in. The seeds need heat to germinate – at least 20°C (68°F) – so grow in a greenhouse, heated propagator or on a sunny windowsill. ● Alternatively, wait until later in the season and sow into large pots or into warm soil outdoors. Crop care Cucumbers need plenty of heat. If you have a greenhouse, this is ideal. Screen off a section with bubble wrap, if you can, to maximise the humidity that cucumbers love. Only grow cucumbers outdoors when temperatures have warmed in summer. Seedlings can be planted out when they have two or three leaves. Water regularly and mulch to retain moisture, and keep the bed weed-free. If you…

Sowing and planting ● Seeds can be sown indoors in modules, or outdoors in warmer weather and transplanted 6-8 weeks later. ● Sow kale outdoors from March to June as a salad crop (no need to thin, just pick and eat) or from March to June for mature plants (thin out to a spacing of 45cm). ● Kale can cope with poor soil, light shade and exposed sites, but it does not like to be waterlogged. ● Pick the leaves as needed – preferably after frost for the best flavour. Crop care Seedlings should be planted firmly into moist but free-draining soil, in full sun to partial shade. Plants will benefit from well-composted manure added to the soil before planting. A good mulch is also helpful to keep plants moist…

Sowing and planting ● You can plant onion and shallot sets in early spring or autumn, direct in the ground soil or into modules. From an autumn planting you’ll get earlier, heavier crops. Shallots can also be planted in winter. Both like sun and a moisture-retentive, fertile soil. ● It’s worth looking for heat-treated sets, as the resulting plants are less prone to bolting (producing flowers). Bolting reduces the quality of the crop. ● Rake over the soil to break down any large lumps. Plant the sets with the tips showing. Onions need room to swell, so space them 10-15cm apart; space shallots, which produce multiple bulbs, 15-20cm apart. Allow 30cm between rows. ● Cover with fleece or netting so birds can’t pull them up. Crop care In spring, apply…

Sowing and planting ● Although they can be grown in the ground, sweet peppers and chillies tend to fare best in containers. They need plenty of moisture and hate bad drainage, so use a soil-based compost with lots of added grit. ● They will crop well outside in a sunny, sheltered location, but for even better results grow them in a greenhouse or conservatory or on a sunny windowsill. ● Sow seeds indoors in spring, then transplant the seedlings into individual 7.5cm pots when the first true leaves appear and they’re well rooted. Move them eventually into 30cm pots, or plant three to a growing bag. Wait until May, after the last frost, before putting them outside. Crop care Water little and often. As soon as the first flowers appear,…

Sowing and planting Sow radishes every few weeks through the summer for a regular supply. Seeds can be sown directly into warm soil, either in beds or in containers and growing bags. Crop care Radishes prefer warm soil and need plenty of moisture for healthy growth, so water regularly. Thin out the seedlings if sown closely together to encourage individual plants to form roots. Harvesting When thinning radishes, you can add the young leaves to salads as a micro-green. If you are growing them for the crunchy roots, summer radishes should be ready to harvest after about three to six weeks – they will quickly get woody if left too long in the ground. Winter cultivars can be harvested from November onwards. Storage Eat summer radishes as young roots fresh…

Sowing and planting ● Make sure you choose a site that is sunny but sheltered. Add plenty of bulky organic matter to the soil to create the best growing conditions and produce well-flavoured leaves. ● Make a shallow drill in well-prepared fertile soil in a sunny spot and sow seeds thinly, approximately 2.5cm deep. Cover the seeds with soil and water well. Sow in rows 30cm apart. Cover with cloches or fleece protection if the weather is still cool. ● Sow a batch of spinach every 3-4 weeks for a regular supply throughout the growing season. Crop care Spinach thrives in fertile soil that does not easily dry out. If you have a very hot, dry garden, you can set up temporary shade for your spinach crop to stop it…

Sowing and planting Make a shallow drill in well-prepared soil in a sunny spot. Sow seeds thinly, approximately 1.5cm deep. Cover seeds with soil and water well. Sow in rows 40cm apart. Crop care As the seedlings begin to grow, thin out the plants so that they are 25-30cm apart. Water them well after thinning. Keep an eye out for pests, although, apart from watering, this is an easy vegetable to look after. Sow the seeds every few weeks for a continuous crop that will see you through the winter months, with just a little protection. Swiss chard can be grown successfully in containers and even among your flower borders, where it will complement the hot colours of late-summer flowers. Harvesting Young chard leaves are delicious eaten fresh and you…

Growing your own fruit has many benefits. Not only can you enjoy the exceptional flavours that a fresh harvest provides, you'll also save money and be able to enjoy varieties that aren’t available in the shops. Once established, fruit plants are less labour-intensive than veg as they require little maintenance through the summer, plus they’re generally long-lived. As a rule, the bigger the plant, the longer it will take to crop, so strawberries are a good place to start if you want quick results. Once most fruit trees or bushes are established, you should get a reliable crop every year – and when it comes to fruit there’s a lot to look forward to. Enjoy tasty gooseberry fool in June, summer pudding in July made from freshly picked blackcurrants and…

Planting ● Plant blueberries in autumn or winter in full sun or light shade. ● The key to growing blueberries successfully is getting the soil conditions right. They need acidic soil, with a pH of between 4 and 5.5, and the texture should be light and free-draining, with lots of organic matter added to it. ● If you don’t have this type of soil in your garden, you can create a bed filled with ericaceous compost specifically for your blueberry bushes. Or grow them in large containers – blueberries generally do very well in pots. Crop care Water blueberries regularly, with rainwater rather than tap water whenever possible. Tap water contains lime and this can change the pH of the soil over time. A change in soil acidity levels can…

Planting ● Figs are best planted outdoors in autumn; if growing in containers plant them in spring. Only a few varieties are hardy enough for outdoor cultivation in the UK. They need a sheltered, sunny spot, ideally against a wall so they can soak up the summer heat. ● Fig trees benefit from having their roots restricted. Ficus carica is native to Syria and Iran, and the idea is to trick the plant into thinking it is growing on a rocky hilltop in the eastern Mediterranean. This allows the tree to concentrate on making fruit, rather than growing leaves. ● Dig a 60cm square pit and fill it with well-composted manure and rubble. Line it with paving slabs to really restrict the roots. The same effect can be achieved by…

Planting ● You’ll generally need to plant a male and a female kiwi cultivar to ensure good pollination and a decent crop. However, if you’re short on the amount of space required for two vines, you can opt for a self-fertile variety. ● Choose a sunny, sheltered spot with rich, fertile soil for your kiwi vine to thrive. ● Dig a generous hole for your plant, adding a few spadefuls of well-rotted manure. If you have room for a male and female vine, make sure they are planted a few metres apart so they have plenty of room to climb. Crop care Despite being an exotic fruit, kiwis are relatively easy to look after. They benefit from a good mulch in spring and a regular weekly feed with a general-purpose…

Planting ● Plums grow best in a sunny spot in free-draining, fertile soil. If you choose your tree carefully you can train it into your preferred shape – as a standard or a fan. Smaller trees, which are grown on semi-dwarfing rootstock, are easier to maintain. ● The same growing conditions apply to most trees in the plum family, although greengages grow best against a warm wall to ripen the fruit. ● Damsons are hardier, smaller trees that will often do well where larger varieties fail. They can be trained on walls and grown as ‘pyramids’ and are also used for windbreaks or hedging. ● Many cultivars are self-fertile so you can plant just a single tree, but plum trees will generally produce a better crop if cross-pollinated with other…

Planting ● Plant bare-root strawberry runners during spring or late summer/autumn. A sunny, sheltered site is essential. ● Nurseries sell bare-root runners that have been stored in cold conditions. Once planted, these young plants grow quickly to form flowers and fruit in as little as 60 days. ● To prepare the soil, dig in plenty of well-rotted garden compost and apply a dressing of sulphate of potash fertiliser. Space the plants 30-45cm apart, with their roots just buried, then firm the soil around them. Water well for the first few weeks. ● Strawberries are suitable for growing in pots and hanging baskets. Use deep pots at least 15cm wide and plant one strawberry per pot in soil-based compost. ● A growing bag will support six to eight strawberry plants, especially…

Planting ● Basil thrives in free-draining, fertile soil in a warm, sheltered position out of direct midday sun. ● To get a quality crop that lasts from early spring to mid-autumn, it’s best to grow it in containers. ● Start your seeds off in pots of moist multi-purpose compost on a warm but not sunny windowsill. ● When the seedlings are big enough to handle, pot them on into individual pots filled with a soil-based compost. ● Put them outside in early summer, after the last frost. To acclimatise them to the outdoors, stand them outside in a sheltered, lightly shaded spot during the day, and bring them back in at night. Do this daily for about two weeks. Crop care Outdoors, basil needs protection from wind and frost. Always…

Planting ● Coriander prefers well-drained soil and full sun, but it will tolerate some shade at the height of summer. The seeds can be slow to germinate, but crushing them very gently before sowing can help the process along. ● Coriander has a long tap root, which shouldn’t be disturbed, so avoid transplanting. ● Sow the seeds directly into the soil outdoors where they are to grow, or into pots. ● In the vegetable plot, sow seeds thinly 1cm deep in rows that are 30cm apart. The seeds should germinate within 7-20 days. ● Thin out the seedlings to 25cm apart. Sow regularly through the summer for a constant supply. Seeds can be sown until late in the season for winter use. Crop care Keep plants weed-free and watered, but…

Planting ● Oregano can be grown from seed, but it is much easier to take a division or rooted cutting from an existing plant. ● To grow from a division, dig up an existing clump or buy a pot of ready-grown oregano. Pull the plant gently apart into several smaller clumps, trimming the roots to create a tidy base, and pot up into individual pots filled with well-drained compost. ● To grow from seed, fill small pots with seed compost and thinly sow a few seeds. The seeds need heat to germinate, so place pots in a heated propagator or on a warm windowsill. When the seedlings have a few leaves, pot them on into larger pots filled with free-draining garden compost. ● As it is a plant of Mediterranean…

Planting ● Annual and biennial sages are easy to grow from seed in spring. Start them off indoors, ready to plant out after the last frost has passed. ● Seed-sown perennial sage is slow to get going, but you can cut corners and buy young plants instead. You can also take ‘soft tip’ cuttings (the tip of a young shoot just below a leaf joint), which are quick to root in pots of damp sharp sand on a sunny windowsill. ● Sage isn’t fussy about soil type – just choose a location that’s free-draining. Cold, wet soil in winter will kill it, so make sure you dig in plenty of grit before planting. A spot in full sun will bring out the flavour in the leaves. ● If given good…

Planting ● Tarragon does not flower or produce seed reliably, so it is best propagated by root division or cuttings. 1) Remove a large pot-bound plant from its pot and saw the rootball in half. Repot one half in fresh compost. 2) The remaining half can be divided to take root cuttings. Cut off the top growth from the cuttings and prune the roots. Plant in individual modules, cover with fresh compost and leave until they produce new shoots, then pot up again. ● If you can’t take cuttings from a friend, it’s best to buy small plants. Crop care Make sure you water your tarragon plants regularly, but do not overwater – watch out for plants standing in water during periods of wet weather. Pick the leaves frequently to…

Bacterial canker Sunken, flat, discoloured areas of bark appear, followed by oozing resin. Tree buds remain closed, leaves are small and yellow and may have holes. The cause Bacteria enters trees through wounds, often caused by pruning, but sometimes as a result of pests. Tends to occur in a wet autumn or spring. Crops affected Apples, cherries, pears, plums and other tree fruit. The cure Remove infected areas, using secateurs or a pruning saw in summer. Safely dispose of infected material, and never add it to the compost heap. Brown rot Fruits turn brown before being covered in raised white-ish pustules. The cause Fungal spores enter the fruit through wounds, caused by rough handling when pruning or doing maintenance, or damage by birds and insects. Crops affected Apples, pears and…

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