Innholdsfortegnelse for October/November 2025 Vol 27 Issue 5 i Gripped: The Climbing Magazine

Cover: Ethan Salvo on Event Horizon V16, The Room, Squamish Photo Ryan Moon There was a lack of bolted rock climbs in northwestern Ontario when I moved to the area in 1999—I think there was less than a dozen. And those that were bolted were never bolted to protect the entire route, but just the crux moves. That meant that the first bolt might be 10, even 20, feet off the ground. Stick clips weren’t as popular as they are now, and the ones that did circulate were rarely long enough to reach the first bolts anyway. It meant that to repeat the established routes, you were going to have to risk a dangerous fall. Not every route was like that, but the majority were, especially those in the beginner-friendly…

In Yosemite National Park, El Capitan towers 900 metres over Yosemite Valley. The granite monolith draws climbers from around the world each fall, and Freerider (5.13a, VI) stands as one of its most sought-after routes. First freed in 1998 by Alexander and Thomas Huber, Freerider has become a benchmark for big wall free climbing. History of Freerider Freerider builds on the Salathé Wall, first climbed in 1961 by Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, and Tom Frost. The Salathé (VI 5.9 C2 or 5.13b/c) ascends El Capitan’s southwest face through cracks and features. In the 1980s, Paul Piana and Todd Skinner attempted to free climb the Salathé, targeting its 5.13 cruxes. Their work set the stage for future free ascents, though challenges persisted. Alexander Huber sought a free variation of the Salathé,…

North America’s prime time for drytooling and mixed climbing is shoulder season—when the rock is too cold to grab, but there aren’t any ice climbs formed yet. Drytooling This thrives on crags unsuitable for rock climbing—often chossy, loose, or perpetually wet. These conditions create ideal drytooling and mixed venues for fall. Drytooling will build your endurance for ice climbing, while sharpening your tool-on-rock precision for mixed. It will help build confidence in balancing on small edges with crampons. Mastering tool placement and trust in gear is crucial for mixed, ice, and alpine routes. Beyond physical benefits, drytooling hones mental focus, as you have to do moves on unforgiving terrain. With crags scattered across North America, from coastal crags to the Rocky Mountains, enthusiasts can often find local spots to train.…

Squamish has long held its place as a granite paradise, a proving ground for climbers looking to sharpen their craft on the clean splitters that carve through its walls. The town at the head of Howe Sound is synonymous with the art of granite climbing, where climbers first cut their teeth on the fundamentals of crack climbing. But for those who have learned the language of the hand jam and crave the next level of skill, Squamish offers a natural progression: the finger crack. Finger cracks demand more precision, greater pain tolerance, and increased subtlety compared to their wider counterparts. They strip climbing down to the essentials: thin locks, tenuous smears, delicate footwork, and an iron will. To climb a Squamish finger crack well is to graduate from the fundamentals…

The 5.15 grade became reality in the early 2000s with Chris Sharma’s historic first ascent of Biographie/Realization 5.15a in Céüse, France, in 2001, widely recognized as the world’s first consensus 5.15a. In North America, however, the 5.15 grade arrived slightly later, driven by ace climbers and the equipping of mega projects. The U.S., with its diverse climbing areas like Clark Mountain, Mount Potosi, and Rumney, and Canada, with its rugged limestone in Canmore and Banff, and hard granite in Squamish, provided plenty of ground for establishing these elite routes. The precursor to 5.15 in North America While no confirmed 5.15 routes existed in North America before 2008, earlier climbs laid the groundwork. In 1998, Dave Graham established Jaws II at Rumney, New Hampshire, initially graded at 5.14b. After key holds…

Mammut 9.5 Crag We Care Rope $230 Mammut’s 9.5 Crag We Care Rope is an eco-friendly, high-performance choice for sport climbers. This 9.5mm single rope, made with sustainable materials, balances durability and lightweight handling. Its smooth sheath reduces drag, ensuring fluid clipping, while the robust construction resists abrasion on rough rock. The vibrant design aids visibility, and its flexibility minimizes kinking. Ideal for cragging, it offers reliable performance for top-rope or lead climbing. Though slightly heavier than ultralight ropes, its environmental focus and sturdy build make it a fantastic, responsible choice for eco-conscious climbers tackling demanding routes. Camp Dyon Express KS $40 The Camp Dyon Express KS quickdraw is a lightweight, high-performance choice for climbers. Weighing just 85 grams, its vibrant Dyneema sling and ergonomic carabiners ensure quick, secure clipping.…

Bonnie’s Roof, located in the Shawangunk Mountains, commonly known as the Gunks, near New Paltz, N.Y., stands as one of the most iconic trad climbing routes in North America. This two-pitch 5.9 in the Trapps area draws climbers for its exposure, history, and challenge. To understand Bonnie’s Roof, one must delve into its place within the broader context of trad climbing’s evolution on the East Coast, where the Gunks played a pivotal role in shaping the sport. The Gunks, around 150 kilometres north of New York City, emerged as a hub for trad climbing in the 1930s. Fritz Wiessner, a German immigrant with mountaineering experience, documented the first technical climb in 1935, the Old Route 5.5, on Millbrook. Wiessner, alongside Hans Kraus, established routes like High Exposure 5.6 in 1941,…

Every winter, climbers fix their gaze on the Trophy Wall, found high on Mount Rundle’s north face in Banff National Park. Visible from the Trans-Canada Highway between Banff and Canmore, this shadowed cliff holds three famous routes: Terminator, Replicant, and Sea of Vapors. Terminator, the rarest and most demanding, fuels annual speculation: will it form this winter? The Trophy Wall stands as a cornerstone of ice climbing. A gruelling hike through thigh-deep snow and scrambling reaches its base in two to five hours, depending on conditions. No sunlight touches the wall, keeping ice cold but unpredictable. When any of its routes form, climbers converge, drawn by history and challenge. In the 1960s, advancements in ice tools and crampons opened the Canadian Rockies to climbers. Ken Baker and Lloyd MacKay pioneered…

I lifted my head, feeling the silence of my friends as they watched me. I looked around, searching for the last set of crimps that would guide me to the lip of the hot granite face. The sea-washed air rose from below, a refreshing contrast to the sun-baked rock. I tucked into the gaston sequence and committed to the bop to the lip, becoming the first person up the route that day. With the tide low, the stakes felt high. I didn’t want to slip and plummet what felt like many metres into the ocean below. I was deep water soloing (DWS) at Lions Bay, a popular cliff-jumping area with some sneaky DWS routes tucked away around a semi-hidden arête. Joined by close friends and a few new faces, I…

On a late spring night in 2024, I left my house in search of winter, which still shimmered across the summits of the Colorado Rockies like a fading mirage, a fata morgana cast from a faraway, imagined ice-world. Near the Longs Peak Trailhead, I crossed the snowline. Moonlight flashed between dark silhouettes of pines. Above Chasm Lake, frosty granite walls glistened with pink alpenglow. There was no one else in sight. The emptiness shuddered with wind, as if the mountains were flickering in and out of a dream. Although the route I’d chosen on Mount Lady Washington was well within my ability, an unexpected moment of faltering came over me—a vague impression of being out of place that haunts me from time to time. Gradually, as I climbed, I regained…

Laura Rogora, an Italian climbing phenom born in 2001, in Rome, has solidified her place as one of the world’s elite rock climbers, particularly in the world of sport climbing. At just 24 years old, her recent send of Ultimate Sacrifice 5.14c (8c+) in Gorges du Loup, France, marked a historic milestone: she became the first woman to onsight a route of this grade. This achievement not only underscores her exceptional talent but also narrows the gap between male and female climbers at the highest levels of the sport, with the top onsight grade for men: 5.14d, achieved by Adam Ondra and Alex Megos, now just one grade higher. Rogora’s ability to perform at this level, both in onsighting and redpointing, showcases her versatility, mental fortitude, and physical prowess. Rogora’s…

There are hundreds of stories of survival from the world of mountaineering, but these three, K2 in 1954, Everest in 1996, and Annapurna in 1970, are among the most gripping. K2 demanded sacrifice from unsung heroes. Everest exposed the fragility of teamwork under pressure. Annapurna’s South Face redefined possibility, paid with loss. K2, 1954 In 1954, an Italian expedition aimed for the summit of K2, Earth’s second-highest peak at 8,611 metres. Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli led the summit push. K2’s Savage Mountain reputation stemmed from unpredictable weather and steep slopes. The team, under Ardito Desio, included climbers like Walter Bonatti and Amir Mehdi, a Pakistani porter. They established nine camps, hauling supplies up ice walls and rock faces. Porters carried loads through the Abruzzi Spur, a route of crumbling…

Climbing in North America during the fall offers climbers a chance to experience diverse crags under crisp conditions. A road trip across the continent, or in your local area, can connect some of the finest destinations, each with unique rock types, routes, and settings. The season’s cooler temperatures and stable weather enhance grip and comfort, making it a prime time for sending routes. From granite slabs to sandstone cracks, these crags provide a range of challenges for climbers of all levels. Lion’s Head, Ontario Lion’s Head, on the Bruce Peninsula, offers limestone sport climbing along the Niagara Escarpment. Routes like Lion’s Share 5.11b and The Prophet 5.12a challenge climbers with technical moves and overhangs. Fall’s cooler temperatures reducing seepage common in spring. The crag’s position above Georgian Bay provides views…

Petzl Dart $300 The Petzl Dart crampon is a lightweight, technical beast for ice climbing and mixed routes. Weighing just 822 grams (pair), its modular design allows customization for ice or alpine terrain. The aggressive front points deliver precise penetration on steep ice, while the durable steel construction ensures longevity. Adjustable bindings fit most boots, and the compact design packs easily. Ideal for advanced climbers, it excels in demanding conditions but may feel overbuilt for casual mountaineering. Reliable and versatile, the Dart is a top-tier choice for serious mixed climbers seeking precision and durability. Scarpa Ribelle Ice $999 The Scarpa Ribelle Ice boot is a lightweight, agile option for technical ice and mixed climbing. Weighing under 700 grams, its precision fit and carbon-fibre cuff enhance responsiveness on steep terrain. The…

New 5.12 on Matterhorn’s South Face A formidable team of Italian climbers, François Cazzanelli, Michele Cazzanelli, and Stefano Stradelli, has established Il Nodo Infinito (The Infinite Knot), a 480-metre 5.12 route on the Matterhorn’s south face. The trio reached the sub-summit of Pic Tyndall (4,241 m) over three days, climbing on Aug. 8, 9, and 18, before rappelling from the Cresta de Amicis ridge. The route’s name, The Infinite Knot symbolizes eternal interconnection and the climbers’ brotherhood, coinciding with the 160th anniversary of the Matterhorn’s first ascent and the founding of the Matterhorn Guide Society, of which all three are members. “The symbol reflects the strong bond uniting Matterhorn Guides with their mountain for 160 years,” the team stated, expressing hope that this spirit endures. This independent line marks a…