Innholdsfortegnelse for April/May 2024 Vol. 26 Issue 2 i Gripped: The Climbing Magazine

There are few climbs in America as well-known as this two-pitch trad route at the Traps crag in New York. The combination of exposure, easy-to-follow climbing and history have elevated this to one of the must-climb routes for both new gear-placing climbers and veterans of the sport. The approach is only around 20 minutes along a road lined with tall trees. It’s flat and gives excellent views of the Hudson River Valley, a popular area with history buffs. Along the way you pass several other classic routes, such as Son of Easy O, Coexistence and CCK—all of them should be on your tick-list. Of course, none of them compare to the classic that is High Exposure, a route first climbed in 1941 by Hans Kraus and Fritz Wiessner. Kraus went…

North of Lake Superior are several long canyons formed by retreating glaciers ages ago that are lined with vertical cliffs. There have been stages of route development over the past 40 years that has resulted in hundreds of routes, ranging in grade from 5.5 to 5.13, which include trad, bolted and mixed. And despite many of the plum lines having been climbed, there are a lifetime’s worth of new routes to establish in northern Ontario, from roadside single-pitch sport routes to long adventure trad lines. One of the best new crags to be opened in the past decade north of Superior is on a section of exceptionally solid stone only one minute from the road. The vertical cliff is called The Shield and it’s found in the northern part of…

Petzl Meteor $115 This isn’t the lightest helmet on the market which is a good thing because it’s found a perfect balance between weight and durability. It has side and rear protection, is low profile, is compact and has lots of ventilation. Even if you’re sport climbing you should use a helmet that can keep you safe from rockfall and from head-hitting-rock falls. The North Face Papsura Jacket $540 This is more of an all-round waterproof shell built for anything related to climbing in warmer temps. It’s durable, slim and packs down into a carry bag. It has harness-compatible pockets and the hood glides over your helmet. It has many features, such as the left hand pocket has an internal mesh pouch, and the right hand pocket has an internal…

Osprey Hydraulics 2L Reservoir $52 There’s nothing better than having a new water bladder to drink out of on those hot approaches. This two-litre option is easy to fill and load into your pack of choice. It has a backer plate to prevent it from bending. Metolius Roll Up Stick Clip $225 This is the first-ever stick clip that rolls up so you can pack it away. It uses a new composite technology that makes it lightweight and rigid. It comes with a Metolius Superclip, reviewed on p.55. The North Face Mountain Lumbar Pack $60 A retro-style lumbar bag with just over two litres of capacity and dividers to organize your stuff. A slick looking pack for those post-climb, on-the-town social times. Arc’teryx Skaha Harness Women’s $230 A new-for-2024 harness…

The Zip is one of the best single-pitch 5.10 cracks in Squamish, and it should be on every trad climber’s list. It’s as close as you get to a perfect granite crack. It was first climbed in 1979 by Ward Robinson and Blake Robinson, and it quickly became one of the most popular routes in the Smoke Bluffs. The crag where it’s found, which is along the Blind Channel, has undergone several stints of route development. There are now over a dozen worthwhile trad and sport routes from 5.5 to 5.12, but The Zip is still the one most people visit for. You start up a short corner to a ledge where the crack starts and then follow nice finger and hand jams with slightly polished feet. While the crack…

Armed with a power drill and a watermelon-sized climbing hold, Ayo Sopeju tiptoed up a teetering ladder. Perched on one leg, he pressed the mass against the wall, rotated it into position and zapped it into place. Like housekeepers and language translators, routesetters are mostly invisible to their clients. Climbers stroll into gyms and expect routes to be waiting for them, colour-coded and thoughtfully arranged. Setters often work quiet pre-dawn hours and late into the night. It’s a thankless job. Occasionally, a climber will comment on the quality of the setting, appraising it as good or bad. In most cases, that’s the extent of the climber-setter relationship. Sopeju, a former professional competition climber and routesetter of 20-plus years, approaches his craft like a virtuoso musician. He has a private studio.…

There are thousands of rock climbs in Yosemite National Park, from test-piece boulders to moderate single-pitch trad routes, to world-class big walls and even classic alpine ridges. The park includes a whopping 3,080 square kilometres of land and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The climbing is spread across several areas, including Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne Meadows, Glacier Point and southern Yosemite. There is something for everyone in Yosemite, so here’s what to know going into 2024. One of the major changes to climbing in the park over the past few years is now every climber is required to have a wilderness climbing permit when staying overnight on big wall. They’re free and available by self-registration. There are no quotas or limits on the number of permits available. The permits help…

Scarpa Generator V $290 Scarpa’s Generator Mid has been a favourite of many trad climbers over the past few years, which is why we’re so excited for the Generator V, the newest model in the line. It’s the ultimate crack climber’s shoe as it excels on all crack sizes, from narrow to offwidth to technical flares. It’s comfortable, rigid on edges and is one of our favourite new shoes for 2024. Camp Storm $130 You don’t want the most lightweight helmet when taking on chimneys and wandering cracks, but having one that breathes well and is comfortable is a must, which is exactly what this is. It has 22 vents and a chin strap with some padding on it. It comes in two sizes. Mountain Hardwear Crag Wagon $300 Trad…

Metolius Magnum $400 There are several crash pad designs, but the Metolius trifold has long been a favourite for veteran boulderers. It’s four feet by six feet in size, is made with a durable fabric, has a logo rug for show cleaning and has pockets to store shoes and other belongings. The shoulder straps are cushy and comfortable, and the buckles are guaranteed for life. This is a must-have bouldering pad. Scarpa Drago $249 Wickedly downturned and asymmetric, yet surprisingly comfortable, the Drago is an absolute weapon on rock and plastic. The shoe shines brightest in situations where you’re required to employ multiple techniques on a single boulder. The Drago does it all. The North Face Trailwear QTM Bra Tank $85 This newer top was made with hot summer days…

Cheakamus Canyon is home to some of Canada’s hardest sport climbs and dozens of five-star sport routes, but thanks to the efforts of a few route developers, the area now has some must-climb moderate multi-pitches. These routes are relatively close to the road, there’s lots of parking, and there is an outhouse that was installed by the Climber’s Access Society of BC. To get to Cheakamus Canyon, take Highway 99 north from Squamish for 25 kilometres and turn right on Conroy Creek Forest Service Road. The gravel road has a steep section, but it’s drivable with a two-wheel drive after it’s been graded. Otherwise you can park in one of the lower lots closer to the road. From the upper parking lot you can see Conroy’s Castle on the north.…

If you’ve checked out the famous crags of Spain, Greece and Italy, then maybe your next trip should be to the tufa-ridden limestone crags of Albania. Thanks to the boom in recent route development, Albania is quickly becoming a go-to destination for sport climbers. You can camp and swim pretty much anywhere, even at the many hot springs. Midsummer is too hot to climb, and winter is rainy, so the best climbing seasons are spring and fall. The best place to fly to is Tirana, Albania’s capital, as it’s less than an hour to two of the best crags: Brar and Bovilla. If you’re looking for some seaside climbing, then you’ll want to head to Gjipe. Driving between climbing areas isn’t that easy due to rough roads and long distances,…

Petzl Ascension $130 An ascender is mandatory for aid climbing, but also works great for belaying someone on their project (instead of grabbing the rope to take in slack), and for moving around on fixed ropes for route development. This 165-g tool works with ropes from 8 mm to 13 mm and is built more ergonomically than previous models. Metolius 4 Step Aider $50 Along with daisy chains and haul bags, you’ll need a few raiders. This is a trimmed-down non-bulky option with stiff steps that keep your feet unsqueezed. This is a great value piece of equipment that will do a great job on thousands of pitches. Black Diamond Wall Hauler $270 If you want to get into big wall climbing or aid climbing this year then you’re going…

Rab Ascent 300 Down Sleeping Bag (1 C) $390 Every climber who’s living in their van needs to have at least one sleeping bag that they can’t wait to jump into at the end of the day. This summer bag is a mummy fit but thanks to its design you won’t overheat on those mild nights. It’s lightweight but durable and made with recycled materials. A lot of thought went into the baffle layout to ensure there are no cold spots at night. Arc’teryx Kragg $190 The Kragg is one of three shoe models that are the first designs produced in-house by Arc’teryx, a brand that launched their first footwear a decade ago. This option is a performance moccasin that aims to replace Crocs or other comfortable slip-on footwear. They’re…