Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2022/January 2023 Vol. 24 Issue 6 i Gripped: The Climbing Magazine

There are a lot of rock climbs around the town of Banff, but until last year nobody had explored this one particular 150-metre-tall buttress of limestone at the base of Mount Norquay. At least, I found no sign or history of anyone having explored it. While it’s obvious from the Trans-Canada Highway, it’s true potential is best seen while paddling on one of the three Vermilion Lakes. During last summer, I climbed four new routes for a total of 18 new pitches with two different climbing partners above the Trans Canada Highway in Banff National Park. The wall looked loose, with two obvious lines and a lot of ledges and blocky roofs. I was unsure of what the climbing would be like, but the climbs ended up being fun and…

The Mediterranean Sea has a lot of amazing deep water soloing, and while the most popular sea cliffs are in Mallorca, Sicily has some worthwhile walls. It’s the largest island in the Mediterranean and is one of the most popular regions in Italy. It’s known for delicious food, mesmerizing sunsets and its friendly seaside culture. With over 1,000 kilometres of coastline, there are several sections that are formed by high sea cliffs, like those found in Syracuse. Just as Neil Gresham and Mike Robertson pioneered deep water soloing in the U.K., Italian climbers Simon Alberto Piera, Roberto Zampino, Riccardo Lentini and Christian Leube were establishing the first deep water solo lines in Syracuse. The cliff runs for over six kilometres and is full of caves and vertical walls. Of the…

The North Face Oh Mega Fur Pom Beanie $40 This toque is as good as it gets for chilly winter days in town or on approaches to the mixed crag. It’s made from recycled yarn and comes with a puffy faux-fur pom. Arc’teryx Triros Merino Midweight Crew Sock $30 These high-performance Merino wool socks have outstanding cushioning and comfort. The wool blend feels smooth and soft against the skin. A perfect choice for wearing in your ice climbing boots this winter. Camp Rocket XS 9 cm $85 If you like to chase thin ice climbs, then you know that you need a few stubby screws on your rack. The Rocket is a slick 9-cm option made from chromoly steel. It’s strong, light and durable. The reverse thread angles give excellent…

Quebec is known for its world-class ice climbing, and this route is one of the best at this grade in the province. La Gaspésie is home to several amazing ice flows and the area should be on every ice climber’s list of places to visit. Rising from forested hills across from the St. Lawrence are steep cliffs full of daggers and curtains flowing from the edges. Climbers visiting here often stay in the seaside town of Sainte-Anne-des-Monts, a sleepy place that feels empty and cold at night, and alive and full of culture during the day. The names of the nearby routes are rather poetic and include Les Cavaliers du Vent (The Knights of the Wind), Voile de la Mariée (The Bride’s Veil), Méduse (from Greek mythology), Le Méchant Loup…

There’s something special about the classic ice routes found in the eastern part of Kananaskis Country. Most of them have low avalanche hazards, they’re relatively close to the road and they predictably offer some of the best bang for your winter buck all season long. The only problem? They’re so popular that you’ll almost always encounter other climbers. Kananaskis Country is accessed via Highway 40 south of the Trans-Canada Highway, around 60 kilometres west of Calgary. Heading south, you pass a casino and gas station before a series of flat fields where groups of horses are often running about. After a cattleguard, you begin to cruise up and into the mountains. First you drive by Barrier Mountain, where the classic Amadeus, a two-pitch M5 WI4, can be found early season.…

The North Face Women’s Belay Sun Hoodie $120 If you know someone who spends long days in the sun, then chances are high that they love a good sun hoody. The colours of the Belay Sun Hoodie are eye-catching, just check out the yellow and lilac. The fit is a little loose but never feels baggy. It breathes great and is very rugged—it will feel like new after a season of climbing. A must-have for any boulderer or rock climber. Arc’teryx Covert Pullover Hoody $180 This is the updated version of the Covert Hoody with a new name. It’s a sweet midweight fleece made from recycled materials. It’s great for all activities, from ice climbing and skiing to training. It’s comfortable, soft, keeps the heat in and has a textured…

Lucas Uchida Climbs V14s Lucas Uchida had a successful season in Squamish, where he ticked several hard problems and the classic Dreamcatcher 5.14d. In the boulders, he made the fourth ascent of The Singularity, which is graded V14. It was first climbed in 2007, making it one of the least-repeated V14s in the world. He went on to climb Room Service Low at V14 and then made a rare repeat of Deadlift V14. He also ticked North North Ridge V14 this year. In the fall, he made the first ascent of the low start to Defenders of the Faith, which he called Offenders of the Faith and graded it V13. He finished the season with the possible first repeat of The Deep End AKA The Pool Low at V13, saying…

Gyms Quebec Allez-Up1339 rue ShearerMontreal, QC514.989.9656allezup.com Escalade Horizon Roc2350 DicksonMontreal, QC514.899.5000horizonroc.com Ontario Ajax Rock OasisAjax Community Centre75 Centennial Rd.Ajax, ON905.231.3434905.231.9934 faxinfoajax@rockoasis.comrockoasis.com Climber’s Rock5155 Harvester Rd.,Burlington, ON905.633.7625info@climbersrock.comclimbersrock.com40 min. from Toronto Climate controlled!12,000 square feet100 + toprope routes108 feet of continuous top-out bouldering! The Guelph Grotto Indoor Climbing Gym199 Victoria Rd. SGuelph, ON800.454.0456519.767.0838519.767.2408 faxinfo@guelphgrotto.comguelphgrotto.com Joe Rockhead’s Climbing Gym29 Fraser Ave.Toronto, ON416.538.7670joerockheads.com Of Rock & Chalk482 Ontario St.Newmarket, ON888.248.7625rockandchalk@hotmail.comrockandchalk.com The Rock Oasis388 Carlaw Ave.Suite 204Toronto, ON416.703.3434infotoronto@rockoasis.comrockoasis.com Manitoba Vertical Adventures Climbing Gym77 Paramount Rd.Winnipeg, MB204.632.5001verticaladventures.ca Alberta University of Calgary Outdoor Centre Climbing Wall2500 University Dr. NWCalgary, AB403.220.5038climb@ucalgary.caoutdoor-centre.ucalgary.ca The indoor climbing wall at the Outdoor Centre is the first and only of its kind in Calgary. It features molded concrete panels imbedded with real quartzite that is set at different angles with overhangs. The wall…

Canmore’s Sean Isaac was one of Canada’s leading ice and mixed climbers during the 1990s and early 2000s. He established some of Canada’s classic mixed lines, like Cave Man M10 and the seven-pitch Cryophobia M8 WI5+. He went on to become one of the country’s most popular ice climbing guides and instructors. In 2001, he wrote a story for Gripped (Volume 3, Issue 2) about the rise of mixed climbing, in which he said, “The Canadian Rockies have unlimited possibilities for those with vision. The future is only limited by one’s own imagination.” We caught up with Isaac 21 years after that story hit the shelves to get some tips for new and veteran ice and mixed climbers. What should beginner ice climbers know before they start? That ice climbing…

The Big Day  Heavily and slowly, my eyelids blinked the rest of me awake on the morning of Sept. 17, just a touch before 6 a.m. For the past few months, I had been getting as many event details sorted for this day and in a true stroke of luck, it seemed as though the ground outside had dried from yesterday’s morning rain shower. Typical Squamish, and what a close call. Coffee in hand and partner by my side, we stuffed the remaining prizes into my Honda Fit as we headed to the Sta’wamus Chief parking lot. Not a single other car in sight; at least I was the first person to show up to start getting some tables and the swag bag filled with goodies ready for the day.…

Black Diamond Terminator Ice Gloves $130 Great ice climbing gloves seem hard to find, so when a pair like these stays on the market, we must celebrate. The dexterity combined with the materials keeps your hands plenty warm in sub-zero conditions. They have a cozy fleece lining and knuckle patches to protect against unwanted knuckle-to-ice encounters. They have a pre-curved fit to help grip the tool, and they’re waterproof. Handling a rope, belay device and zippers with them on is no problem. Petzl Dart Leverlock FIL $250 The updated version of the Darts hit the market a few seasons ago, and they’ve proven to be one of the best crampons on the market. They excel on mixed but also on pure ice routes. The extra teeth give more stability but…

Born to Climb By Zofia Reych Vertebrae Press, 2022 In summer 2024, climbing will be a properly conceived Olympic event, having followed a fitful and less-than-transparent path to get there. It’s hard to imagine that it won’t become a permanent fixture, unlike tug-of-war or other shorter-lived inclusions. The inclusion of ice climbing in some future winter Olympics is on the horizon. Born to Climb is a single-volume attempt to take this imprimatur of athletic legitimacy as a starting point and to tell a convincing origin story. It’s also a series of reflections on the current nature of climbing interwoven with a post-Communist personal memoir. Zofia Reynch narrates some of the more impactful developments in the evolution of the sport at a pace that puts you centre stage with the key…

For a decade, maybe two, whenever David swooped into mind, I shoved him back into the blue yonder because all I could hear was dirt raining off his coffin. Then the piano plinking in his mother’s house, once the shiva began. The black ribbon, ripped in two, lay on the dining room table. Candles burned. All the mirrors were covered. The rabbi kept glancing at Nate and me, but what could he say? His nephew, David, the irrepressible prodigy who went rogue on the big rocks in Yosemite and the wildest rivers on Earth, had gone where the light never shines. Caterers ghosted through the house, carrying trays of blintzes. We couldn’t stomach food so we drank coffee from a big chafer urn, the eyes of the gathering crowd playing…