Innholdsfortegnelse for February & March 2020 / Vol 21 Issue 1 i Gripped: The Climbing Magazine

Over the past few years, climbers, including some of the best, have been dying at an increased rate. To be at the top of the game, climbers need to constantly push themselves harder and faster, which means there is less time to consider consequences and less gear to keep them safe. Brad Gobright, one of the boldest climbers of his generation, died while simul-rappelling in Mexico at the end of 2019. At 31, he was known for his free-solos and speed climbs. While rappelling a big route, he and his partner made an error in judgement that led to Brad’s death. Never simul-rappel, but if you do, then be sure to tie knots in the end of the ropes, find the middle mark and triple-check everything. A few summers ago,…

1967–2019 Bold Canadian Rockies climber Ken Wallator died in December at the age of 52. He was found near Jasper, Alta. after a week-long search by rcmp, friends and family. The death was not deemed to be suspicious in nature. Over the past 40 years, Wallator made a number of historic first ascents and hard repeats. He grew up in Japser, and explored Jasper and Banff National Park with a number of partners over the years. In 1988, Wallator and Tom Thomas made the first ascent of a serious grade-six mixed/aid route up the north face of Storm Mountain in the Rockies. That spring, he joined Tim Friesen and Charles Scott for the first ascent of an alpine route on the south face of McArthur Peak in Alaska. Shortly after…

Annie Chouinard Quebec climber Annie Chouinard sent Pure Imagination 5.14c earlier in the fall, one of the test-piece routes at Red River Gorge. New Climbing Escalade Canada (CEC) Board of Directors Members Christiane Marceau has accepted the role of executive director and Sebastian Powell was selected for the role of series coordinator. Tomoa Narasaki Flashes V14 Tomoa Narasaki flashed Decided V14 at Mizugaki in Japan in the fall. Narasaki qualified for the Olympics earlier this summer. Only a handful of climbers have flashed the grade. Felipe Camargo Sends 5.15b Brazilian climber Felipe Camargo became the first South American to climb a 5.15b with his send of El Bon Combat in Spain. Jakob Schubert Jakob Schubert has made the third ascent of Alex Megos’s Perfecto Mundo 5.15c in Margalef, Spain, which…

Brad Gobright’s big wall partners recall what it was like to climb with the legendary free soloist and speed climber. From big wall speed climbing to hard free solos to trad, Gobright was one of the world’s top rock climbers before he fell to his death on November 27 while rappelling in El Potrero Chico, Mexico. “My family is in agony right now,” Brad’s mother, Pamela Gobright, posted on social media. “We will miss him so much. My heart breaks especially for his sister Jill. The fact that he will not be with her when we are old, or when we die. He will not be at her wedding or take her children to the mountains. It is so hard to bear.” REMEMBERING BRAD GOBRIGHT Adventures with Rob Kepley Four…

Mammut Masao Light $450 The Masao is a minimalist jacket that can take on the worst weather. It’s made of lightweight fabric and folds down small in a stuff sack to hide away in your backpack. It’s perfect for alpinists and climbers looking for light, compact protection. The hood has a draw cord so it tightens well around the head. The zipper’s big teeth will still function in icy weather. Patagonia Ascensionist $625 The Ascensionist is a go-to alpine waterproof jacket with a three-layer Gore-Tex shell to keep you protected from rain, wind and even snow. The pit zips provide excellent ventilation. Two of our favourite features are the concealed RECCO reflector and that it’s fair trade certified sewn. It’s very light and packable, but acts like a heavy-duty shell.…

As a southern Ontario teenager in the 1970s, David Smart escaped the boredom of suburbia by climbing the cliffs at Rattlesnake Point. As he pursued his passion, he also discovered, at his local library, that many climbers before him had written books – some exceptionally good – about their activities on rock walls and mountains around the world. “I always loved adventure and history books as a boy,” Smart said. “I loved Beau Geste and Moby Dick, The Odyssey, but since I was too young to be a whaler or join the French Foreign Legion, I became a climber. When I found out there were books about climbing, I found a way to make it fill all my time.” Smart’s passion for climbing, and for books about climbing have shaped…

The North Face Women’s Sierra Peak Hoodie $369 With another few months of cold weather ahead, there’s nothing better than having the latest slim-fit, 800-fill goose down hoodie for your adventures. The durable Sierra Peak Hoodie is compressible, shields from damp weather and will keep you warm and toasty. Camp Corsa $130 With strong steel alloy attachments on the pick and spike, the Corsa finds the sweet spot between a general mountaineering tool and aggressive ice tool. The B-rated axe is a top choice for climbers heading out to couloir ice and hard snow. Arc’teryx Norvan VT2 $190 Designed for moving fast over mountain terrain, the Norvan VT2 has a breathable mesh upper with a reinforced toecap that will protect your feet when moving through loose scree. The edging capability…

Listening to the water of the Jacques Cartier River rush underneath my feet toward the St. Lawrence made me wonder if crossing the untested ice was worth the risk. We were trying to access the steep ice and mixed climbing in Pont Rouge. If it broke, it would have led to some unwanted and cold swimming. We had just landed in Quebec City and within half an hour of renting a car, we were sitting at the parking lot to Pont Rouge. In an attempt to get a quick climbing day, we called local climber Dany Julien. He agreed to show us an assortment of climbing, from mellow to hard. After a short downhill approach from the parking area, we were there, and Julien was more than happy to share…

Deuter Aircontact Pro 65 + 15 $360 The Aircontact Pro is one of the burlier and heavy-duty packs on the list. It comes in at 3,180 grams, but includes a 10-litre daypack. It’s made of robust polyester and comes with a rain cover, which is recommended in heavy rains. The zippers are easy to reach. There are a number of mounting options for longer treks and a height-adjustable lid with an extra 15 litres of storage. Patagonia Black Hole Duffel 70 $200 The flagship of Patagonia’s packs is the Black Hole line and the 70-litre duffel is their must-have midsize. It’s made with 100 per cent recycled polyester fabric, lining and webbing. The duffel is extremely durable, easy to pack and the interior straps help hold everything tightly in place.…

Canadian Alpine Journal, 2019 To look up at the unremitting expanse of black diorite that forms the North America Wall and think that you might be the first to climb it entirely free speaks to a life committed to climbing at its highest levels. To see a line that everyone has seen but no one has summoned the energy to attempt is to take the sport forward. To take steps out into conditions unknown takes you to places otherworldly. These sentiments run through every edition of the Canadian Alpine Journal (CAJ), and 2019 is certainly no exception. That Canada can offer a sense of remoteness and demand self-reliance is a testament to the country’s vast geographic diversity and a relative lack of development (compared to Europe) and lack of population…

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