Innholdsfortegnelse for February/March 2019 i Gripped: The Climbing Magazine

This year promises to be the busiest at Canada’s crags. Climbing is booming with new gyms across the country, new school programs and entry into the Olympics. This is the year for climbers to become the best climbers they can be. Being a good climber is about more than sending hard things, it’s about being a positive part of the community of Canadian crag-goers. Chances are high that you’re planning to travel somewhere this summer for rock climbing, whether it’s for a weekend or a month. There are two types of climbers when they travel: those who plan and pay and those who go on a whim and dirtbag, both are cool. Whichever type you are, be sure that you respect the rules of the area you’re travelling too. At…

The Ontario Access Coalition has been proudly serving the Ontario climbing community for the past nine years. We have worked closely with landowners to ensure continuing access to beloved areas, advocated for proper crag etiquette among climbers and promoted mentorship as the climbing population is booming. We’ve helped establish bouldering as a celebrated activity at the Niagara Glen, held yearly crag stewardship days, and purchased land to keep climbing open at Old Baldy. Our mission has always been to keep climbing and bouldering areas open. The issue of access is at the forefront of our existence, and has been squarely incorporated into our name. Today, we are eager to announce that we have a new name to go by: The Ontario Alliance of Climbers. Our goals are the same as…

On Nov. 19, Sonnie Trotter made the first free ascent of Pineapple Express, a three-pitch variation to El Nino, a variation to the North America Wall. Trotter became the first climber to ever free the section of El Cap between Dawn Wall VI 5.14d and Zodiac IV 5.12d, which is historically significant. Pineapple Express now gives climbers three new free pitches up to 5.13b. With Tommy Caldwell, Trotter climbed the 26-pitch Pineapple Express in a 13-hour push with Caldwell jumaring ropes and belaying. The three new pitches are variations to pitches 12, 13 and 14. Trotter discovered the variation in 2017 when inspecting the wall with Alex Honnold. North America Wall is one of the most historic routes on El Cap, first climbed in 1964, it was the first climb…

B.C. is known around the world for the climbing found on the West Coast and in Squamish, but climbers also come for the classic routes in other marquee Bugaboos, Skaha and Revelstoke. The rock type differs in all three places, forcing you to adjust your style and approach to every pitch. As Canada’s westernmost province, a mild climate prevails, such as the Oganagan Valley, where Skaha is located. During the shoulder seasons, climbers can find perfect sending temps. Development in eastern B.C. goes back over 100 years; the Selkirks and Revelstoke were the birthplace of Canadian mountaineering back in the late 1800s. The first climbs in the Bugaboos were by Conrad Kain and his clients, starting in 1916. Climbers didn’t start to explore Skaha until the 1970s, when trad climbers…

Black Diamond Stone Duffel $115 The Duffel is one of the best crag packs that you can own, but it doubles as a nice bag for lightweight travel. It’s easy to load, will carry what you need for a few days of climbing somewhere warm. There are two small pockets on the inside and the main space is can hold a surprisingly lot of gear/clothes. Great for a short-term sport climbing trip. MEC Fast Track Shoulder Bag $63 While this is a great pack for after-work gym sessions, it doubles as a smart carry-on for flights. The backpack style shoulder straps can be tucked away and packing clothes, gear is quite easy thanks to the curved panels. There are lots of internal pockets to suit your packing desires. Ideal for…

Honorary Membership For having had a lasting and significant impact on the advancement of climbing. Recipients: Jim Donini and Michael Kennedy The Robert and Miriam Underhill Award Recognizing the highest level of climbing skill, courage, and perseverance, with outstanding success. Recipient: Kate Rutherford Heilprin Citation Recognizing those who have worked to maintain and strengthen the American Alpine Club. Recipient: Thomas Hornbein The Robert Hicks Bates Award Recognizing a young climber with outstanding promise. Recipient: Brette Harrington The David R. Brower Award Recognizing leadership and commitment to preserving mountain regions worldwide. Recipient: Jeremy Jones The David A Sowles Award Recognizing unselfish devotion at personal risk or sacrifice of a major objective, in going to the assistance of fellow climbers imperiled in the mountains. Recipients: Dennis Urubko, Adam Bielecki, Jaroslaw Botor, and Piotrek Tomala The H. Adams Carter…

Dick never took himself too seriously. He pushed me beyond my limits, scared the crap out of me, told the greatest stories and sang the sweetest tunes. He led by example. So many of the platitudes we hear about great people – well, Dick exemplified them all. Dick was born in Burma in 1937. At four years of age, in response to the Japanese invasion, he was evacuated to Scotland where he spent the next few years either hiding in bomb shelters or collecting shrapnel off the streets. Soon after, Dick was sent off to boarding school until he turned 15. He later moved to Glasgow to work on locomotives and apprentice as a millwright. It was during this period that he met Louise, who became his wife – a…

Red Rock in Nevada has long been a Canadian climber’s destination in early spring. The camping is cheap and there are dozens of great lines to chose from. One of the most sought-after 5.11s is Yin and Yang. The all-time classic trad route is found on the Yin and Yang Cliff at the Kraft Mountain area. The zig-zagging crack is short but sweet. It’s a pumpy route became the traversing nature keeps you jamming a horizontal crack. There are poor feet as you climb the narrow hands/ring-lock crack through the upper curve. It climbs a lot like a face route, which means sport climbers will feel right at home. Many have debated about the grade, saying it’s anywhere from 5.10b/c to 5.11a. You’ll have to climb it to decide. Details…

Osprey Mutant Line $199 Osprey’s new climber-specific Mutant series includes an amazing selection of alpine, rock and ice packs perfect for your climbing adventures this year. Depending on what size you have, features include dual tool locks with bungee tie-offs, helmet carry (52 l and 38 l only), rope carry system and a narrow profile for efficiency. A top choice for alpine and multi-pitch rock this year. Scarpa Instinct SR US$175 Scarpa has tensioned the rubber around the shoe to help it perform on overhanging boulders and tiny edges. It also has rubber over the forefoot, lower volume than the earlier version and a sculpted heel. A good shoe for experienced climbers working their projects in the gym and on the rock. Arc’teryx Atco FL Jacket $450 One of the…

New Quebec Ice Climb Étienne Rancourt and François-Guy Thivierge have made the first ascent of Le Perchoir WI4 M5 85 m at Palissades. El Bon Combat Jakob Schubert has made the second ascent of Chris Sharma’s El Bon Combat in Cova de l’ocell. He suggested the 5.15b/c could be 5.15a. Shawn Raboutout’s New V16 Colorado climber Shawn Raboutou, 20, has made the first ascent of an old project at Valle Bavona, Switzerland, which is now the only V16 in the country. Daniel Woods Now V16 Daniel Woods, 29, made the first ascent of Box Therapy V16 at Box Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park on Oct. 29. Perfecto Mundo Repeated Stefano Ghisolfi has joined the most elite climbers in the world by sending a 5.15c with the repeat of Perfecto…

Angela Vanwiemeersch wasn’t the adventure type – she grew up competitive ice-skating in Detroit – when dropped out of society in summer 2009 at 19 while she was working two jobs. The final straw came when she was rejected for a college loan to study fashion design. One of her two jobs was working at an American restaurant chain. “I was serving at the Olive Garden and was wildly uninspired. I freaked out and got on a bike,” she says. Despite having never seriously biked before, she decided to ride solo from Detroit to Halifax, a distance of 1,350 miles. In 2010, she solo paddled 430 miles – bailing out at a steep gorge that had killed people who’d attempted it – of the 1,100-mile Mackenzie River in the Northwest…

When Sonnie Trotter completed his “alpine trilogy” in the Canadian Rockies of Alberta, he likely never imagined that less than a year later, two of Canada’s top climbers (neither of whom live in Canada) would repeat it. But it happened in the summer of 2018 when Sasha DiGiulian and Mike Doyle spent a month in the Bow Valley and sent the three 5.14s, DiGiulian first and Doyle a close second. The routes, which are discussed below, climb steep limestone and dolomite, and were all freed by Trotter in order to create the Canadian version of the Alps’ trio of big 5.14s. The three routes in the European Alps that make up the original alpine trilogy are the 240-metre Des Kaisers neue Kleider 5.14a, which was put up by Germany’s Stefan…

Arc’teryx Aptin Zip Hoody $139 Designed as a cold weather running top, it acts as a perfect layer for cooler travel days when on the move and going light. The Aptin Zip will be ideal for approaches in early spring weather. The three-quarter zip and low profile features make this a must-have this year. If you bring one layer for training on your trip, make it this one. Petzl Bindi Headlamp $76 Having a headlamp in your pack while travelling is a great idea. The Bindi is only 35 grams, which makes it a great option to have tucked away. The usb charging is great for because you can charge it pretty much anywhere. It has most features larger headlamps have and is great for camping, running and climbing. It’s…

Inner Ranges Geoff Powter Rocky Mountain Books Head aching, vision blurred and with the twirl and flutter of tie-offs that have come undone around him, Geoff Powter decides it’s time to back off from an early attempt on El Cap’s Shield route. He’s never nailed A4 and realizes that the fear of failure can only take you so far. Is the route even reversible? He dimly wonders this as the concussive effects of a long fall impair his ability to down-belay. In the end, the experience and judgment of his partner gets them back to the Valley floor by sunset. Back home he writes a letter of gratitude to the route itself. “Thanks for showing me a more honest version of myself, for showing me how far I have to…