Innholdsfortegnelse for June - July 2016 i Gripped: The Climbing Magazine

A dream of many climbers is to climb something before anyone else, whether on a completely new route or by making a first free ascent. As more climbers push standards and seek out unclimbed lines, the number of possible firsts declines every year. We are lucky in Canada to have so much undeveloped rock remaining, but climbers must work harder than ever before to find the next first. One of the best ways to make a first is to know what has been or hasn’t been climbed. A combination of reading guidebooks and talking to locals can unlock the secrets of what’s left to do in certain areas. Local ethics will apply to how you go about making your first. If you’re free climbing an old aid route, can you…

Marc-Andre Leclerc Pushes the Limit in Rockies Marc-Andre Leclerc spent much of the winter in the Rockies and made his presence known when he soloed three hard routes on the Stanley Headwall in one day. First he soloed the 150-metre French Reality M5 WI6+. It was not the first solo of the route. He then rappelled and made his way to Nightmare on Wolfstreet, a well-travelled, but never soloed M7+ WI6+. He climbed the first two pitches and then finished up the wall via The Day After les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot, which crosses Nightmare. Two routes were not enough and after he returned to the slope, Leclerc went and soloed the classic Nemesis WI6+ 150 metres. It was one of the most impressive solo days in the Rockies for…

In July 2015, Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki. In fifty hours of climbing, they sent two world-class routes, and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki. MEC Expedition Support helped get them there. By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world, the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities. Want to know more? mec.ca/expeditions…

This is a complex issue. And it’s dumb. The future of traditional climbing doesn’t have to include a death sentence to still be heady and scary. I was pretty much doomed. I had made a mistake and set myself up to hit the ground 20 metres below. If the set of cam clusters ripped, it was going to hurt. The red walls of Escalante Canyon, on the western slope of Colorado between Grand Junction and Montrose, spanned the horizon, but I could only focus on the soft sandstone in front of me. My nails split as I torqued into the locks trying to place the final nest of three small pieces in the fingertip crack. I started to shake as I struggled to slot the first cam. I had already…

Those who did return relished the chance to test their roof-climbing skills in the new sector called the Gibbon Roof. Tonsai – in Krabi Province, Thailand – has been one of the world’s most popular climbing spots since the early 1990s. Dozens of climbers return every winter, attracted to the carefree vibe, beach and hedonistic lifestyle amid basic, rustic bungalows. Climbers returned in fewer numbers for the 2014/15 season, fearing a new resort would ruin the vibe. But local business owners say a resort is highly unlikely, given the province’s strict building laws. Those who did return relished the chance to test their roof-climbing skills in the new sector called The Gibbon Roof. Swedish climber Simon Talltorp discovered the area in February 2014, and recruited Australians Glenn Smith and Andy…

Boreal Dharma US$159 The Boreal Dharma is aimed at climbers looking for similar performance to the top-end Boreal Satori, but with better edging. It uses the same downturned last, great rand system and sticky toe patch. The Dharma differs from the Satori with its stiffer midsole, which allows for better edging. It also has a traditional three-strap Velcro closure system that is designed to lock-in your foot. From thin edges to steep rock, the Dharma is a top shoe for those looking for an all-rounder. Scarpa Drago $229 The Scarpa Drago is a new, aggressively downturned Velcro slipper designed for climbers going for difficult sends. It uses the same much-loved VS heel as the Scarpa Instinct. The Drago uses the new “foot wrapping system,” which offers more sensitivity, greater friction…

Gyms Quebec Allez-Up 1339 rue Shearer Montreal, QC 514.989.9656 allezup.com Escalade Horizon Roc 2350 Dickson Montreal, QC 514.899.5000 horizonroc.com Ontario Ajax Rock Oasis Ajax Community Centre 75 Centennial Rd. Ajax, ON 905.231.3434 905.231.9934 fax infoajax@rockoasis.comrockoasis.com Climber’s Rock 5155 Harvester Rd., Burlington, ON 905.633.7625 info@climbersrock.comclimbersrock.com 40 min. from Toronto Climate controlled! 12,000 square feet 100 + toprope routes 108 feet of continuous top-out bouldering! The Guelph Grotto Indoor Climbing Gym 199Victoria Rd. S Guelph, ON 800.454.0456 519.767.0838 519.767.2408 fax info@guelphgrotto.comguelphgrotto.com Joe Rockhead’s Climbing Gym 29 Fraser Ave. Toronto, ON 416.538.7670 joerockheads.com “Eating glazed doughtnut bracelets off the right arm of Jesus.” Of Rock & Chalk 482 Ontario St. Newmarket, ON 888.248.7625 888.248.7625 fax rockandchalk@hotmail.comrockandchalk.com The Rock Oasis Toronto, ON 416.703.3434 infotoronto@rockoasis.comrockoasis.com Manitoba Vertical Adventures Climbing Gym 77 Paramount Rd. Winnipeg, MB…

Mammut Belay Chain 12.0 $50 The Mammut Belay Chain 12.0 is their latest belay chain in a long line of much-loved make-belaying-easier tools. A slick self-securing belay setup that uses Dyneema rigged into six loops, each rated to 24 kN. If you’re into belay chains, Mammut’s latest should be on your harness. Mountain Hardwear Micro Thermostatic Hybrid Jacket $155 The Mountain Hardwear Micro Thermostatic Hybrid Jacket is a perfect summer midlayer for the alpine. It keeps the insulation where you need it and the nylon fabric is super lightweight and keeps the weather out. A big plus is that it compresses into its own pocket. Black Diamond Pipe Dream bag $175 The Black Diamond Pipe Dream bag is made for crag climbers. We would describe it simply as a workhorse…

Kaska Kowalska V10 Kaska Kowalska of Ontario sent Water Hazard V10 in Bishop, which is a Sean McColl route from 2008, and her hardest send to date. New 5.10 at Smoke Bluffs West Coaster Eric Tran climbed a new bolted 5.10 slab at the Burgers and Fries wall in Squamish. The new fun route climbs up left of Pink Panther 5.11c. New Big Mixed in Quebec Jean Francois Girard and Carl Darveau made the first ascent of Aller simple pour Mars M7+ WI7- 190 m in Percé. They climbed the new route in memory of Benoit Marion. Biggish New Mixed in Quebec Serge Alexandre Demers Giroux and Louis-Philippe Ménard climbed six new routes at Quebec’s Lac du Cap, including La Split du Cap M6 100 m and Le Cap au…

It’s important to train both our strengths and weaknesses. Are you thinking you’d like to try your hand at some climbing competitions? While they are challenging, they are an excellent way to push yourself and to develop different aspects of your climbing. Here are a few helpful tips that will get you started on the right foot. 1 Work Your Way Up to Big Comps Choosing the right event as your first competition experience will be a big deciding factor of whether you love it or leave it. For your first competition, whether bouldering or rope, pick something low key such as a local event or a citizen’s competition and register in the recreational category. Pick an event that is low stress, but one that will familiarize you with the…

Come the dawn of March, I typically find myself bombing northbound up Interstate 5 after a fine winter spent cragging around the desert southwest. As a quintessential “snowbird” it is my annual pilgrimage, a necessary absence from the dank homeland north of the border. This routine has proved convenient in the sense that, assuming they let me back into the country, the dandelions are out and local cragging has just begun. As I spiral towards middle age, I’m frequently reminded that I’m no young buck anymore, and after two months of pimping on tweaky limestone crimpers, my body was worked. Tendinitis had infiltrated my entire left arm and every time I heaved the cast iron skillet in which I lovingly craft my morning eggs, the sensation of glass shards and…

THE TICKLIST • Best Seat in the House 5.9 (South Clear) • Spawn 5.10c (South Clear) • Saddam Hussein 5.11b (North Clear) • Clyde the Mega Dude 5.11b (Lilly Bluff) • Heresy 5.11c (Lilly Bluff) • Tales of the Sperm 5.11c (Obed) • Tieranny 5.12a (Obed) • Solstice 5.12a (South Clear) • Gangsta 5.12a (Lilly Bluff) • Equinox 5.12b (South Clear) • Barbwire and Lingerie 5.12b (Y-12) • Rage 5.12c (South Clear) • Rules of Engagement 5.12c (Little Clear) • Born on the 4th of July 5.13a (Y-12) • Huecool Senior 5.13a (Obed) • Blasphemy 5.13b (Lilly Bluff) • Buddha’s Belly V4 (Lilly Boulders) • The Dave Hume Problem V10 (Lilly Boulders) THE CLIMBING At the Obed, just like other sport-climbing-on-sandstone venues, you can expect the angle to be somewhat…

A Crack Climber’s Technique Manual By Kent Pease Fixed Pin Publishing There are a multitude of resources when it comes to climbing traditionally protected rock climbs. The majority of the references are, for better or for worse, not the kind that will improve your climbing as much as your knowledge systems gear. , and notable exception in this category surely has to be given to The Crack Climber’s Technique Manual by Kent Pease. The esoteric world of climbing is at its ultimate pinnacle when exploring the mysteries of crack climbing. Climbing the space between macro features requires a toolbox that is not instinctive like face climbing, bouldering or even some forms of tradition climbing. In The Crack Climber’s Technique Manual, Pease puts forth a slew of techniques which seek to…

1. What was your go-to guidebook as a young climber in Ontario? I started with a copy of Dave Smart’s Climbing on the Niagara Escarpment. Then I picked up his Ontario Limestone guide with the picture of Chris Oates on the cover. After that, I got The Escarpment: A Climber’s Guide, which was written by Marc Bracken, Judy Barnes and Chris Oates. And like most climbers, I ended up with a copy of Bracken, Barnes and Oates’ A Sport Climber’s Guide to Ontario Limestone. 2. What decade saw the most development along the escarpment? For sheer route quantity, it was the mid-’70s to mid-’80s. But for real crag development, you would have to look at the mid-’80s to late-’90s – a period that coincided with the development of sport climbing…

Mount Sir Sandford is the highest summit in the Selkirks and the prime attraction. There are a dozen routes and with variations and the best are on snow and ice. There are good snow and ice routes up Silvertip, Cornice Peak, Citadel, the Footstool and other peaks. Most of the rock around the Sir Sandford area is poor and loose, but the northwest face of the unclimbed Ravelin Peak is reported to be solid looking. The Adamants are to the northwest. The Blackfriars and Belvedere Peak are easily accessed from the hut. Many climber enjoy the good rock routes on the south side of Turret Peak, Stickle and Austerity and are accessed from the hut and sometimes require a bivy. There is also good cragging below the Silvertip Glacier, which…

“Upon reaching the edge of the timber east of Mount Edith, we stopped and looked back at our mountain, which towered up magnificently in the dusk, and Conrad spoke volumes when he said, ‘Ye gods, Mr. MacCarthy, just look at that; they never will believe we climbed it.’” –Albert “Mac” MacCarthy, 1917 Canadian Alpine Journal When Conrad Kain and Albert MacCarthy rode on horseback from the Banff townsite on July 19, 1916, their plan was to picnic with friends below the tapered tower of rock that rose from Gargoyle Valley, the next valley north. Their plan was a reconnaissance of the spire, every side steep. In his Canadian Alpine Journal article, MacCarthy admitted neither man felt sufficiently strong so early in the season to “hazard the strain of a first…

RAB Torque Pants $150 The redesigned RAB Torque Pants have evolved from their very successful technical pants. They are lighter and better than before in many ways. They have a closer fit, which is good for rock and alpine. The stretch fabric allows for a full range of motion and it’s reinforced in all the right areas, which allows it to take abuse. The extra tough knee and kick patches combined with zipped leg closures make these the ideal mountain pants. Julbo Aero $135 The new Julbo Aero is one of the best pair of sunglasses designed with climbers in mind this year. They come with Zebra or Zebra Light photochromic lenses that allow for a wide and clear field of vision. With a clever suspended lens construction increases ventilation…