Innholdsfortegnelse for April/May 2017 i Gripped: The Climbing Magazine

When I opened my first issue of Gripped magazine in 1999, I read the term “gripped” described as, “A colloquialism in climbing meaning in a state of fear.” I didn’t know it at the time, but over the next nearly two decades, I would find out first-hand what gripped meant. You never know when you’ll be gripped, but being run out, exposed high on a wall or negotiating a difficult traverse can all lead to its sudden onset. Below are a some gripping moments that I will never forget. One time I was on a 12-metre crack at the Centennial Bluffs in Thunder Bay, Ont. I was 20 and had teamed up with a partner who was much stronger. We forgot a rope, so my partner suggested we solo the…

Up the Bloc is one of Canada’s newest bouldering-only gyms to open in 2017. What’s special about Up the Bloc is that it’s the brainchild of two of Canada’s most experienced climbing industry leaders, Luigi Montilla and Jean-Marc de la Plante. They have created a facility that will host big competitions, be a home base for strong climbers and add to the list of amazing Ontario climbing gyms. Luigi Montilla started the climbing company Friction 18 years ago. They started with making holds for Toronto area gyms. Montilla started to sponsor competitions and climbers and eventually started Tour de Bloc, Canada’s bouldering competition tour. The comps led to a standardization of formats and rules. Tour de Bloc celebrated its 14th successful year in 2017. Montilla and friends eventually helped Toronto…

Cathedral Ledge is located in North Conway, N.H. and is one of the oldest crack climbing areas in the U.S. The 150-metre granite crag lies just outside of town and is a bastion of quality routes, with ease of access that is second to none. Cathedral’s walls seem to radiate with climbing lore, long before climbing was cool, before fancy lightweight cams, super skinny ropes and new fangled sticky shoes, old-school climbers were pushing the limits of climbing at Cathedral. Climbing areas that can be referred to with one name typically say something about the quality of climbing there. When someone says the Creek, the Valley, Smith or Cathedral, you immediately know where they are talking about. Climbers have been visiting Cathedral for decades to push themselves and its classic…

Black Diamond Vapor $155 The Vapor has a sheet of Kevlar and carbon rods that go between the foam layer and shell to add durable protection and keep the helmet light. With lots of ventilation, the ratchet suspension system tucks nicely away and conforms snug to the back of your head. It’s not as sturdy as a hard shell, so don’t sit on it. Great for cragging or multi-pitch rock. Petzl Sirocco $TBA The new-for-2017 Petzl Sirocco is an updated version of the much-loved only-comes-in-orange Sirocco. It is surprisingly light, comes down lower in the back and has new reinforced protection. It has the same optimal ventilation as the original and thanks to the durable liner, it fits nicely to your head. And, get ready for this, there are colour…

New Newfoundland Routes Will Mayo and Anna Pfaff climbed two new ice routes in Newfoundland: Psycho Killer M9 WI7 150 m and Dreamline WI6+ (with Joe Terravecchia) next to Pissing Mare Falls. Olympic Climbing Calgary The Calgary Climbing Centre has started building a new facility that will train future Olympic climbers. And it will be one of the most state of the art climbing gyms in Canada. Monkman Cascades Climbed The 10 Monkman Cascades were climbed by Ryan Bowie, Matt Dawes and Ben Brochu. The remote northern B.C. ice routes range from 10 metres to 30 and from WI2 to WI4. New Squamish 5.13d British climber Jacob Cook climbed a new 5.13d in Squamish called The Magician. The short route is at Crag X and has one bolt. First Ascent…

I wanted to climb under the three super moons last fall, the ones in October, November and December. The weather didn’t co-operate until mid-December, so I only had one last chance to make it happen. Montmorency Falls near Quebec City seemed to be in good condition, so we planned on that. The big ice climb is 150 metres tall and very wide. It is often illuminated with bright lights and rotating colours. Many ice climbers in Quebec have climbed the famous falls that faces south on the St. Lawrence River. My plan was to get on the wall, just a few metres beside the falls on either the Super Momo route or Super Wet. I found two photographers to capture us climbing with the falls and the moon at the…

Other than seeing photos of some Quebec classics, I knew little about ice climbing there or about Quebec in general. Guy Lacelle’s climbing, the Bloc Québécois and poutine were my main areas of “expertise” when it came to French Canada. During a climbing day at Lake Louise in Alberta, Jasmin Fauteux asked me if I had an interest in going to Quebec to climb. With my February wide open, I committed to the trip despite not knowing anyone else on it. The Quebec portion of our team was represented by Jean-Phillipe Belanger and Charles Roberge, two motivated Quebec City climbers. Pete Takeda had been climbing in Quebec on a regular basis for several years. Having seen an article in Gripped, he also expressed interest, bringing the total to five climbers.…

Choosing the right shoe is essential to successful climbing. The wrong model will be too narrow, too tight, or too loose and imprecise for your purposes, and possibly ruin your chances of success and enjoyment. Fit is a contentious issue among climbers. Elite sport climbers will choose a very tight shoe to take the most advantage of their narrow toe box and camber. Most climbers, however, can get away with a more relaxed shoe. Evolv Agro Velcro $189 The Agro is an aggressive bouldering shoe for precision foot placements. The tensioned thin midsole rubber is flexible. The forefoot is built to keep its shape over time with a very downturned toe. The Velcro closure locks your foot into position but doesn’t interfere with toe hooks. Highly recommended for those trying…

Black Diamond 9.2 mm $220 for 70 m (non dry) This is an ideal sport-climber’s rope for onsighting and redpoint attempts. It’s so light that it is also certified for use as a double or twin cord, although using it this way will greatly increase its durability. The 1x1 sheath is tough and abrasion resistant, but the rope still handles nicely and takes knots easily. Low impact forces soften the catch a little on longer falls. The longer length will come in handy lowering off longer sends. Petzl Volta 9.2 $315 Petzl’s ropes are known for the good handling and for being lightweight. The Volta 9.2 acts as a half, twin and single, which is good for those looking to not only crag, but get up high. Comes in the…

DMM Flexform Creda and Eon $160 The big news from DMM this year is their new Flexform harnesses. They shed the gimmicks and add a lot of comfort to existing designs in the same category. They use laminated thermoform pads that borrow technology from their I-beam biners. There is thicker material where you need it to spread the load. The material is thinner to keep the flexibility and extremely light. One of the top new harnesses to hit the market and highly recommended. Metolius Safe Tec Deluxe $105 This is a tried, tested and proven top performer in the category of comfort and usability. The Tec Deluxe is just that, a deluxe harness with a wide waist belt to support the lower back. It has four beefy gear loops and…

Your heart rate is pounding and you’ve just fallen at the same high point on your project, again. While lowering to the ground, your mind loses that trance-like focus that you had while holding on and the questioning begins. “How many times have I fallen in that same place now, 20 or 30 times?” and “Why do I feel so weak?” Your skin is bleeding because grabbing the same holds for months has left your fingers with gashes. Your muscles ache and beg for longer and longer rests. The pressure of sending builds with every try and a meltdown like you had 10 tries ago doesn’t seem far away. Taking on a long-term project has one guarantee and that is when it’s complete, you will not be the same person…

The Crest Creek Crags are in the forests of B.C.’s Strathcona Provincial Park, west of the city of Campbell River on mid-Vancouver Island. A large and growing number of trad and bolted sport routes, plus aid climbs, are reachable from an extraordinary and extensive trail network through the crags. The climbing spans slab, crack and face climbing on highly featured, solid and coarse-textured basalt. Grades range from 5.4 to 5.14 with an emphasis on moderates but no shortage of challenging sport and trad testpieces. The area can be reached via Highway 28 about an hour from Campbell River starting from the junction of Highway 28 with the inland Island Highway, or by driving about 15 minutes east from Gold River. Campbell River is about an hour and a half north…

What do climbers need to know heading into 2017 in Squamish? Overall: that the situation in Squamish is changing, and that assumptions based on previous visits may no longer hold true. Especially in relation to accommodation and parking – see more detailed comments to other questions below. What are the biggest issues for the Squamish Access Society? Our work is a combination of physical projects like trail building and anchor replacement, and liaison with land managers, being primarily BC Parks, the BC Ministry of Forests, Lands and Natural Resource Operations (FLNRO) and the District of Squamish (DoS). The physical projects tend to follow a well-established course, and we are proud of recent successes like the Loop Trail at Murrin. However in the liaison area, personalities and circumstances change and we…

Osprey Mutant 28 $120 One of Osprey’s best alpine climbing packs is the Mutant 28. With lots of room for your climb and bivy gear, it includes solid tool locks, webbing for crampons and beefy zipper that is easy to use with gloves. You can remove the helmet sling, straps and suspension system for the summit push. It’s easy to strap your rope to the top and unload it. The green is good for visibility on glaciers or snowy peaks. MEC Travel Lite Pack $49 MEC has a big line of top packs, but this one is the best for long rock routes. It’s a good size to shove your shoes, jackets and guidebook in. Designed narrow, it allows for full-range of motion. The shoulder straps breathe and have no…

The North Face Apex Bionic 2 Jacket $180 If you’re looking for an extra layer of insulation for chilly belays or alpine routes that will also look good in town, this is the jacket for you. The exterior has an attractive texture, but is also water, wind and abrasion-resistant and stretches for climbing or strenuous approaches. The Apex offers enough insulation and protection for most alpine or early and late season rock climbing days, but the relaxed fit allows you to add a layer underneath if you need to. Arc’teryx Gamma Hoody $400 This is part of the Gamma line of abrasion-resistant, softshell-stretch outwear. Arc’teryx pioneered the category and their experience shows in this sharp-looking, functional, highly-featured piece. Light insulation keeps it warm enough for belays in the alpine. The…

Thunder Bay Climbing Aric Fishman Prism Publishing, 2017 Expansive views out across Lake Superior, a diversity of rock types and climbing styles, and the sense that you’re exploring lands once travelled by First Nations, fur traders, Nordic settlers, and prospectors. These are among the aspects of climbing revealed in the new expansive guidebook to the Thunder Bay, Ont. area. Local activist and guide, Aric Fishman has done an outstanding job in capturing the spirit the community that developed and continues to develop the many crags to be found within an hour’s drive of the city that once served as the gateway to the Canadian West. At the same time, he has produced a book to contemporary standards of utility and visual expressiveness. Must-do routes are highlighted with outstanding photos, so…

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