Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2025 i Gourmet Traveller

SUBSCRIBE NOW magshop.com.au/gmt Details p54 The summer I was 19, I worked as an au pair in Normandy. The kids were one and three, and I looked after them from 7am to 7pm, dressing them in miniature Dior, entertaining them sans TV (Monsieur et Madame considered it lower class, so didn’t have one), feeding them. Every morning, we’d stroll the town’s cobblestones to shop for the day, hurrying past the skinned rabbits hanging in the boucherie window. I’d pick up super-sweet carrots from sandy crates at the marché and paper-wrapped Comté (kept in the pantry, not the fridge), but my favourite was the little old poissonnier, who’d peel us prawns to nibble while he filleted a sole for our lunch. This wasn’t far from my home in the UK; the…

Edmond Fallot Tarragon Dijon Mustard Don’t be fooled by the hue; this take lends a gentle tarragon characteristic that we loved with poultry. La Moutarderie Fallot was founded in 1840, so they know what they’re doing when it comes to the classics. $8 for 210gm, gourmetdeparis.com.au Hilbilby Cultured Food Australian Dijon Mustard The raw, unfiltered apple cider vinegar used in this Dijon, made on Victoria’s Surf Coast, brings bold acidity, with a golden glow and warmth thanks to turmeric. $13 for 175gm, hilbilby.com.au Ogilvie & Co Truffle Mustard Flecked with pieces of Manjimup truffle, this mustard adds a little luxury to the dinner table. The smooth texture and bright acidity make it a great addition to mayonnaise-based sauces. $18 for 120gm, davidjones.com.au Tracklements Smooth Dijon Mustard Made in Burgundy for…

New era for French Brissy favourite Turkish home-style dining in SA Ho Jiak ups the flavour in Melbourne Sydney’s new Middle Eastern and Med vibes IS THERE A BETTER SIGHT than a French restaurant in full flight? Aproned waitstaff gliding through a buzzing dining room. The heady scent of beef Bourguignon wafting while en route to another table. A wine list brimming with Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux. It’s the kind of Gallic magic that has transfixed chefs – and diners – for centuries. In Brisbane, few do it better than Montrachet. It’s been this way since 2004, when Thierry and Carol Galichet first opened the restaurant in Paddington, before being taken over by Shannon and Clare Kellam in 2015 and relocated to Bowen Hills in 2017. Now, Montrachet settles into…

BRIGHT, PERFUMED AND ENDLESSLY VERSATILE, FRENCH LIQUEURS HAVE long played a supporting role in the cocktail canon. Built on centuries of regional know-how, they reflect the fruits, flowers and herbs of the landscape, spanning Alpine peaks to Mediterranean groves. Sommeliers have always gravitated to mistelles for their aromatic lift, whether paired across a dégustation or served at the end of a meal in place of heavier dessert wines. But today, bartenders are embracing their aromatic complexity in lighter and more expressive drinks such as floral spritzes, bitter-sweet apéritifs and low-alcohol serves built for sunshine. They’re springtime in a glass, perfect for this bright and blossoming season. FIVE TO TRY Floral: St-Germain Elderflower Liqueur, Fécamp, $75 for 750ml How to create a drink that captures a fleeting moment in spring? Simply…

THE SMELL HITS FIRST: A WAFT OF PUNGENT, musky rind as I open the refrigerator door. I reach for a hunk of “Barisien Truffe” and a hand brushes mine. A Frenchman wearing a Patek Philippe watch appears to share my penchant for creamy truffle cheese. And even though it’s not a meet-cute, a sense of romance definitely lingers in the air inside the Parisian grocery store. Ask any French person about gastronomy and their response will range from proud to arrogant. “Life is too short for bad food – or even for mid-range, mediocre food,” says Romain, my Airbnb host. “We see every meal as an opportunity to eat well and to live well, so we take great pride in our produce.” Typically, he says, Parisians shop at open-air markets…

GF Seared flank steak with roast potatoes and vadouvan curry butter SERVES 2 // PREP 10 MINS // COOK 40 MINS 500 gm sebago potatoes, scrubbed, cut into 1cm-thick rounds 2 garlic cloves, crushed Finely grated zest of ½ lemon 100 ml olive oil 500 gm flank steak, at room temperature Blanched green beans, to serve VADOUVAN CURRY BUTTER 80 gm softened butter 1 golden shallot, coarsely chopped 2 tsp vadouvan curry powder (see note) ½ cup (loosely packed) parsley Finely grated zest of ½ lemon, plus 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 Preheat oven to 220°C fan-forced. Toss potato, garlic, lemon zest and 80ml olive oil on a large oven tray to combine, spread out in even layer and roast, turning once, until golden and crisp (35-40 minutes). 2 Meanwhile,…

Simplicity is not the first descriptor that comes to mind for Maison Bâtard. Melbourne’s lavish, multi-level ode to Paris, and the recipient of our 2025 Best New Restaurant award, is unashamedly about French glamour. But as Bâtard’s executive chef Adam Sanderson explains, the ingredients are the real star. “Good quality produce sings out loud for itself, and simplicity is the best way to showcase that,” says Sanderson. “Our approach is sourcing and using the best produce we can, complementing that with good cooking, but always ensuring that the food doesn’t look too complex. Our approach here is to lighten things up a bit. We lean on French technique but make the dishes fresher with less emphasis on cream and butter.” The recipes Sanderson has supplied for our French issue come…

Kross House dining room by FIGR Architecture Studio. 1 Blackbutt (18mm Solid Timber Prefinished), $115 per square metre, Flooring Works. 2 Linen curtain in Natural, $220, Cultiver. 3 Beebo-C30 track lighting, POA, Linea Light. 4 Raf armless chair, $1100, Jardan. 5 Hashira portable table lamp, $465, Top3 by Design. 6 Linear wood table, from $2450, Living Edge. 7 Landis wide vase in Earth Brown, $130, House of Isabella. 8 Amy Leeworthy tall vase, $545, Toast. PHOTOGRAPHY TOM BLACHFORD. STYLING NATALIE JAMES. MERCHANDISING SAM YATES.…

Where butter takes the cake as the edible essential of any good French kitchen, lived-in copper cookware claims the title on the hardware side of things. Chasseur has been manufacturing pots and pans in France for 101 years, and this classic copper collection is just as suited to slaving away over an elaborate Escoffier-inspired creation as it is heating up last night’s leftovers. Layers of stainless steel and aluminium make the set induction-compatible, while the domed lids evoke the sort of vintage find you could plausibly have picked up at an antique market in Provence. You’ll also gain cupboard space, since these are clearly too chic to ever put away. Chasseur Escoffier Induction 5 Piece Set, $1200, chasseur.com.au WORDS GEORGIA CONDON. PHOTOGRAPHY LAUREN TROMPP. STYLING MAXWELL ADEY.…

The hottest new dining openings Peter Gilmore on a decade of Bennelong The Gold Coast’s new bathing beauty Springtime kick-off for festival fever MELBOURNE Condiment king Tom Sarafian has opened his first restaurant in Collingwood. Zareh, named after the chef’s Armenian grandfather, builds on his eponymous line of Arab staples (hummus, toum and harissa) and partner Jinane Bou-Assi’s Lebanese background. “Over generations, Armenian and Lebanese communities shaped and enriched one another,” Sarafian tells GT. “That spirit of cultural exchange and resilience is what we’re honouring at Zareh.” The menu changes often, and might include hummus with spanner crab and king prawn sauce served with wood-fired aish baladi (an Egyptian bread); beef manti on garlicky labne; and ghapama: whole heirloom pumpkins filled with rice, dried fruit and nuts, cooked in the…

A fierce advocate, a compassionate storyteller and an excellent cook, Kon Karapanagiotidis has inspired me for years. Relentless in his pursuit of justice and equality for asylum seekers, he never – ever – gives up, restoring hope and dignity through food, shelter, education and community for the countless people currently seeking safety in Australia. KON KARAPANAGIOTIDIS WEARS MANY HATS: founder and CEO of the Asylum Seeker Resource Centre (ASRC), human rights advocate, lawyer, social worker, teacher, philanthropist – and passionate cook. He has spent decades championing the rights of asylum seekers, refugees, women and Indigenous communities in Australia. But alongside his advocacy, food has always been at the heart of his life – a connection that culminated in A Seat at My Table: Philoxenia, a cookbook that celebrates Greek vegetarian…

IT’S NOT EVERY DAY YOU enter a restaurant with a motley crew of strangers and emerge hours later as friends, united over intimate home-style dining, anise-flavoured raki, salty șalgam (fermented black carrot juice) and singalongs to a strumming baglama. The traditional Turkish string instrument is one of many family heirlooms dotted throughout Mini Lokanta, the 10-seat restaurant which opened in January in a heritage-listed home in North Adelaide. Every Saturday evening, husband-and-wife duo Enver Tuğrul and Gökçe Özbecene welcome diners into their living room to share flavours and customs from their homeland. The little restaurant is a nod to meyhanes (Turkish taverns) the pair frequented before moving to Australia four years ago. The eight-course set menu begins with cold appetisers, a tradition dating back to Ottoman palace kitchens. Girit ezme,…

Australia’s thirstiest drinks news Five essential French liqueurs for the home bar How to mix a Tassie True Local Meet the man behind Jean Bouteille Wines TRUE BLUE Born from the sun and soil of Australia, Beudi takes the essence of agave spirits and gives it a local twist. Made with care for the land, community and native wildlife, their Blanco spirit and Sparkling Margi spritz pour fresh, earthy flavours. $58 for 8 x 330ml cans, beudi.com.au TOP DROPS, NEW OPENINGS, AND INSIDE TIPS FROM THE EXPERTS SIPS IN THE CITY Forget moody minimalism. The hottest bars in Paris right now are all about decadence and opulence, like this treasure trove, Le Bar de Boubalé. Located within Le Grand Mazarin, a new hotel in the 4th arrondisement, the bar’s entire…

THE COCKTAIL SCENE OF EARLY 20TH-CENTURY PARIS was famously revelrous. Among the melee, wealthy US expats ran amok, borrowing the local name for men about town: “boulevardiers”. Led by writer Erskine Gwynne, the group published a magazine, Boulevardier, its celebrated contributors including Ernest Hemingway. Although drawn to the Negroni, these socialites ditched the gin for the bourbon they’d grown up with, naming the newly created drink the Boulevardier. Gabriel Da Rocha, a Frenchman and bar manager at Mary Mary, Hobart, drew inspiration from the original’s simplicity, then gave it a Tasmanian spin. “Imagine yourself in Hobart,” says Da Rocha. “Walking its boulevards means you encounter cider houses, distillers experimenting with local terroir: from apples grown in the Huon Valley to small-batch vermouth and apéritifs crafted in the city itself.” His…

Louis Couttoupes, Chef/Owner, Onzieme, Canberra In Paris back in 2015, on a busy night at Au Passage in the 11th arondissement, we ran out of a dish mid-service. The chef was like, cool, we need another veggie dish. What have we got? What can we roll with? And we looked at each other and realised we’ve got artichokes we bought this morning. Fresh goat’s curd had just come in. Cucumber flowers. We had a dish. We scrubbed the chalkboard and that was the veggie dish for the night. It taught me about having confidence in really good produce without complicated technique. It’s a style that I really fell in love with and thought, this is what I want to keep doing. Sebastien Lutaud, Culinary Director, Etymon (LouLou Bistro, The Charles…

In August, Porcine chef-owner Nik Hill was named Gourmet Traveller’s Chef of the Year – a peer-voted accolade that highlights the industry’s respect for this humble, high-performing figure. Hill’s recipe for pâté en croûte epitomises his approach: rooted in French culinary tradition, visually impressive, and treating lesser-loved ingredients with the deepest care. “Pâté en croûte is a fascinating subculture of charcuterie and cooking, with high-wire competitions and shops dedicated to the craft dotted all over France,” he says. Constructed to deliver a cross-section resembling leadlight windows or terrazzo tiles once sliced, pâté en croûte comprises a forcemeat filling encased in pastry. This recipe calls for vinegar and cornflour to create a firm yet tender exterior, while variations at Hill’s restaurant, in the Sydney suburb of Paddington, have included duck, rabbit,…

Kross House kitchen by FIGR Architecture Studio. 1 Reedy Bay – Final Light (oil on linen, 154cm x 170cm) by Clifford How, POA, Arthouse Gallery. 2 Fondue cast-iron set (21cm/1.4 litre) in Matte Black, $449, Chasseur. 3 Serralunga Paloma, $515, Space Furniture. 4 Smeg 600mm Classic Pyrolytic Steam Oven with Probe in Stainless Steel, $3290, Harvey Norman. 5 Momo Rail D Handle in Brushed Dark Brass, $220, Momo Handles. 6 Large Mountain vase, $450, Dinosaur Designs. 7 Gun Track light, $109, About Space. 8 Buoy counter stool in Oak, $1105, Dutoit Studio. PHOTOGRAPHY TOM BLACHFORD. STYLING NATALIE JAMES. MERCHANDISING SAM YATES.…

AUGUST IN TASMANIA IS NOT FOR THE FAINT-HEARTED, WHICH MADE IT THE ideal location for this year’s GT Annual Restaurant Awards. Held for the very first time in Hobart – thanks to our friends at Tourism Tasmania – the event celebrated the creativity, passion and dedication that’s woven throughout the Australian dining scene – and it was nothing short of magical. Dusk was falling as guests began arriving at the storied Henry Jones Art Hotel, the sky darkening dramatically through the glass roof of the IXL Atrium. Dressed in swathes of fabric and hundreds of cathedral candles, the romance of the room was amplified by a collaborative menu courtesy of The Agrarian Kitchen, Fico and Omotenashi – three local restaurants that prove Tasmania punches well above its weight when it…

LES BAINS GARDIANS, SAINTES-MARIES-DE-LA-MER, CAMARGUE IN A NUTSHELL: Wild calm on the edge of the wetlands. Set in the heart of the Camargue’s protected marshes in the South of France, Les Bains Gardians is a 67-room retreat inspired by the gardians – the region’s traditional horseback cattle herders. Their iconic cabanes, once scattered across the area, have been reimagined as timber-framed, limewashed lodges with earthy textures and vintage Provençal charm, courtesy of interior duo Hauvette & Madani. Owner Jean-Pierre Marois describes the property as “conscious hedonism”: guests can spend their days riding horses, floating in the pool or engaging in spa rituals, before dancing to DJ sets or dining under the stars with guest chefs. Flamingos drift across the nearby Parc Ornithologique, and the pilgrimage town of Saintes-Mariesde-la-Mer is just…

Was wine always on the cards for you? No! I’m from the south-west of France, about 45 minutes north of Toulouse, which is the HQ for Airbus. After leaving school, I did engineering and aeronautical studies, but I was bored, so I left. I randomly walked into a little wine shop, they offered me a job, and that was my introduction to the industry. I very quickly got the bug, and went on to study winemaking in Bordeaux. You can spend a lifetime looking for your passion, so I feel quite lucky that it happened this way. So, you’ve made wine in France and Australia. How do they compare? In Europe, there are so many rules to comply with. Australia’s actually pretty loose, and I appreciate the freedom that gives…

“GROWING UP JUST OUTSIDE BÉZIERS IN THE south of France, we knew the name of every bird and flower. We knew what weeds we could eat and which we couldn’t. We’d forage for chestnuts, and we lived with the seasons. My dad grew up barefoot in the bush and wanted us to have that same love for nature, so we spent every weekend and every day after school outdoors as a family – at the beach catching tiny prawns, or in the hills, naming snails. My mum had a very sophisticated upbringing. I love that my parents had such different beginnings. I hope I have both the wild and the elegant in me. The thing I miss most since leaving in 2004 is, obviously, my family: my parents, my two…

Rosemary panisse with anchovy and walnut sauce SERVES 4-6 AS A STARTER // PREP 15 MINS // COOK 25 MINS (PLUS FREEZING) Panisse is Provence’s answer to Italy’s polenta chips, crisp on the outside, soft on the inside and rosemary-scented – perfect for dipping in our anchovy and walnut sauce. Reserve extra sauce to transform pan-fried fish or grilled meats. Neutral oil, for deep-frying Baby radishes and lemon wedges, to serve PANISSE 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 150 gm (1 cup) chickpea flour 1 tbsp finely chopped rosemary, plus extra sprigs for deep-frying ANCHOVY AND WALNUT SAUCE 8 anchovy fillets 1 egg yolk 1 small garlic clove, crushed 2 tbsp lemon juice 1 tsp Dijon mustard 100 ml extra-virgin olive oil 40 gm roasted walnuts, finely chopped, plus extra to…