Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2025 i Gourmet Traveller

Joanna Hunkin Editor Art & Food Creative Director Jacqui Triggs Senior Designer Sam Yates Senior Food Editor Maxwell Adey Words Deputy Editor Ceri David Digital Editor Cordelia Williamson Senior Sub Editor Suzanna Chriss News Editor Jordan Kretchmer Editorial Coordinator Lana Telford Contributors Elliot Baker, Alexandra Carlton, Ivy Carruth, Alix Davis, Michael Harden, Michael Harry, Anna Hart, Kylie Kwong, Lee Tran Lam, Jane Lawson, Alex Mitcheson, Samantha Payne, Lee Tulloch, Max Veenhuyzen @gourmettraveller askgourmet@aremedia.com.au GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY Gourmet Traveller acknowledges the Gadigal people of the Eora Nation as the traditional custodians of the place we now call Sydney, where this magazine is published. Gourmet Traveller also pays respects to Elders past and present. Published by Are Media Pty Limited. ABN 18 053 273 546. 54-58 Park St, Sydney, NSW, 2000,…

IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR a date night restaurant where you can have a private conversation in a dark corner, move along. If, however, you’re up for a shared table meal with eight strangers who might just become friends by the end of the night, then highly regarded chef Luke Burgess’s new diner, Scholé, is the place for you. Situated on the fringe of Hobart’s CBD, this is a tiny jewel box of a restaurant where Burgess serves elegant, Japanese-inspired dishes for just 10 diners at a time. It’s intimate. Once a confectionary shop, the building also served time as a casket showroom and the dining room is lined with timbers leftover from that venture. The result combines sauna vibes, with the clean lines of Japanese architecture. The menu is short…

Samantha is a sommelier, writer and wine consultant. @sl_payne AS MUCH ABOUT RESTRAINT AND REFINEMENT AS IT IS ABOUT innovation, the Japanese drinks industry is centred around a handful of producers that embody that balance better than most. From Kenbishi’s sake brewed using centuries-old methods to Suntory’s world-famous Yamazaki distillery shaping the global perception of Japanese whisky, these names resonate well beyond their local regions. Shochu giant Hombo Shuzo and umeshu producer Houraisen round out the list, each offering a glimpse into a distinct facet of Japan’s drinking traditions. These aren’t just products – they’re philosophies in liquid form, and each sip tells an intensely regional, deeply intentional story. SAKE: TIME CAPSULE IN A BOTTLE Founded in 1505, Kenbishi is Japan’s fourth-oldest sake brewery and one of its most distinctive.…

Everyday recipes by Julia Busuttil Nishimura PAGE 76 Step by step instructions to perfect mochi PAGE 86 Six diverse ways with ramen noodles PAGE 90 Tokyo kitchen table recipes PAGE 110 Spinach, tofu and ginger gyoza MAKES 25 // PREP 40 MINS // COOK 15 MINS 25 gyoza wrappers 60 ml (¼ cup) neutral-flavoured oil Micro tatsoi, to serve SPINACH AND TOFU 250 gm firm tofu, drained 1 bunch English spinach, trimmed 2 spring onions, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tsp finely grated ginger 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp sesame oil 1 tbsp mirin DIPPING SAUCE 80 ml ( ⅓ cup) soy sauce 80 ml (⅓ cup) rice vinegar 1 For filling, pat tofu dry with paper towel. Transfer to a bowl and finely crumble. Blanch spinach…

Fried mushroom and tofu ramen SERVES 4-6 // PREP 30 MINS // COOK 55 MINS Many different types of noodles – thin, fat, wide, chewy, silky – are served alongside ramen in Japan. For something different, we’ve gone for halved wonton wrappers for their silky smooth texture which works perfectly with this creamy ramen broth. 50 gm unsalted butter ½ tsp shiro (white) miso paste 800 gm mixed Japanese mushrooms (such as pioppino, chestnut and enoki) 20 wonton wrappers, cut in half diagonally 200 gm soft firm tofu, cut into 1cm cubes Furikake, watercress sprigs and chilli oil, to serve MUSHROOM BROTH 60 gm dried shiitake mushrooms 30 gm dried porcini 50 gm kombu (see note) 15 gm unpeeled young ginger, sliced MISO TARE 60 ml (¼ cup) usukuchi shoyu…

MAINTAINING FLAVOUR-OF-THE-MONTH STATUS for an astonishingly prolonged period has done nothing but intensify the global taste for Japan travel. As a well-trodden triptych, Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka promise an exhilarating mix of traditional, modern and contemporary culture, and vast culinary range, however the surge of visitors armed with exhaustive bucket lists can tip even resolute travellers into temporary overwhelm. Thankfully, delicious respite is closer at hand, thanks to a handful of nearby destinations that make for tempting and doable daytrips. Of course, true beauty lays in lingering, and we strongly recommend unwinding over a two- or three-night stay, and giving yourself the opportunity to observe more by doing less. NIKKO A sense of calm washes over you, just shy of two hours from Tokyo. Approaching Tobu-Nikko ‐ station in neighbouring…

SUBSCRIBE NOW magshop.com.au/gmt Details p72 Six years ago, as part of the interview process for the role of Gourmet Traveller editor, I was asked to present three future issues of the magazine – what they would look like along with the stories and food they would feature. One of the ideas I put forward was the Japan issue. It was 2019 and the Tokyo Olympics were approaching; this was the ideal time, I reasoned, to take a deep dive into Japanese cuisine and culture, exploring Tokyo and beyond. I landed the job and immediately added the Japan issue to our upcoming calendar. By February 2020, we had teams deployed around Japan, gathering words and photos for the issue, while we busily shot recipes in studio and captured the perfect cover.…

I have long admired and respected First Nations leader Clothilde Bullen for her heartfelt advocacy and vision. She has championed the inclusion and growth of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander artists in Australia’s top cultural spaces, and through her curatorial work and commitment to equity and cultural safety, she brings people together and inspires real change. CLOTHILDE BULLEN OAM HAS ALWAYS HAD a deep – and personal – understanding of the kinship between Aboriginal Australians and Asian-Australians. She grew up in an outer area of Perth known – often derisively – as “KGB”, after the suburbs of Koondoola, Ghiraween and Balga, where both groups were strongly represented. “It was all social housing, blackfellas and Asian delis because the Asian-Australian mob were pushed to the fringes like us,” she remembers. “We…

Drinks news and latest openings PAGE 44 Meet the maker Veuve Clicquot’s Didier Mariotti PAGE 46 Japanese heroes and bottled icons PAGE 48 How to mix a Mugi-Cha PAGE 50 STILL WATERS Whether you’re a rookie or a veteran when it comes to whisky, a new release is reason enough to get sipping. Cue Rosevears Tasmanian Single Malt Whisky, a fresh offering from the award-winning Turner Stillhouse. $179, turnerstillhouse.com SUNSET STACKS Kick off happy hour with Food for Everyone’s debut drinks poster by Virginia-based artist Josh Stover. Channelling retro bar scenes and cheerful cocktail culture, this piece embodies mid-century passion through fiery tones and geometric flair. As with all Food for Everyone posters, this limited-edition print donates 10 meals with each sold. $130 (A2), foodforeveryone.com.au SPOTLIGHT ON Tony Huang of…

THE HIGHBALL’S ORIGIN STORY IS HOTLY CONTESTED. A flurry of claims date back to the US in the early 20th century, but these were pipped by an earlier record of it in 19th-century England. The gentry, at the time, were partial to brandy and soda – that is until phylloxera wiped out half of France’s wine production, forcing them to turn, instead, to Scotch. “That’s where a good Highball comes in,” says Andy Chu, co-owner of Melbourne drinks den, One or Two. “It softens the woodiness and allows the fruitier, more delicate notes to shine. A well-made Highball is the perfect introduction to whisky.” If the Brits invented it, and the Americans became its advocates, Japan is the perfecter. Crafted with high-quality domestic whisky, the drink was the daily redemption…

TO THE UNINITIATED, IT MIGHT SEEM A TOUCH curious that a sphere of batter filled with octopus could capture the soul of a city, but in a town renowned for its culinary bravado, there’s one street snack that rules them all: takoyaki or “grilled octopus”. Gold and glossy like fist-sized pearls, they’re crisped to perfection and stuffed with hunks of tender tentacles. But Osaka isn’t just Japan’s kitchen; it’s the snack capital of the nation, and takoyaki is its sassy, steamy signature. local craft beers paired with their signature takoyaki. Piping fresh off the griddle and hotter in popularity; they’re also included in the room rate, so eat to your heart’s content. It's convivial and casual, a soft landing into Osaka’s rowdy foodscape. The setting, a lush urban garden just…

WHAT IS TEISHOKU? Teishoku is a Japanese set meal where all the dishes in the course are served together. In Japan, teishoku is commonly served at local eateries and family restaurants for lunch and dinner. Ima Asa Yoru’s version includes miso soup, grilled fish, rice, okazu (side dishes, like capsicum kinpira and spinach) and Japanese-style pickles. When Ima Asa Yoru owners Ako Miura and James Spinks moved their popular Japanese café from Carlton to a larger space in Brunswick in 2023, extra room was only part of the equation. A significant expansion came with the opening hours and menu as Ima’s original daytime concept grew to include an izakaya-style menu in the evening. The recipes that Miura and Spinks have shared for our Japanese issue are an excellent snapshot of…

THE FIRST THING THAT MIGHT COME TO MIND WHEN YOU think of Japan may be the bold neon lights of Shibuya, the hustle and bustle of Shinjuku and the traditional temples of Asakusa. Although these are iconic images, there’s so much more richness to Japanese culture. Not the culture shock, but the accessibility, comfort and serenity of it all. Umai, meaning “tasty, delicious, appetising”, is a word said with fervour after that first bite of something that hits the spot. It seemed like a natural title for this book. It was a word I heard after meals I’d make for friends when I moved to Japan from London. Outside Japan, the image of Japanese food tends to be of sushi, raw things, and ramen – but that’s just a small…

JAPAN HAS CONSTANTS YOU’LL FIND EVERYWHERE, from ramen stalls to the grab-and-go joys of convenience stores. Then there are specific places that are worth seeking out for a one-of-a-kind experience. Here, well-travelled visitors to Japan share the locations they keep returning to – and where they’d like to go next. TOKYO “Tokyo is essential for immersion into the restaurant and culinary scene,” says Caryn Ng, who has been to Japan 14 times and written books about its food culture, including A Day in Tokyo. Isetan department store’s food hall is a compulsory visit: its Shinjuku flagship offers everything from sushi to exquisite Japanese sweets. Another essential Tokyo activity? Slurping ramen. “I’ve had some truly good ones in nondescript ramen shops, but the finesse of Ginza Hachigou lingers in my mind.”…

IF YOU TIME YOUR ARRIVAL AT MITSUKOSHI department store in Tokyo’s Ginza for precisely 10am when the store opens, you’ll be greeted by a line-up of bowing sales assistants, all wishing you irasshaimase, or “welcome.” It’s a ritual I try not to miss whenever in Tokyo because it’s the only time in my life I get to feel like visiting royalty. Japanese department stores are wonderful little worlds unto themselves, and I’m obsessed with them. They’re full of treasures, such as mad hats, beautiful crafts and marvellous cooking implements you wouldn’t find outside of Japan, all exquisitely packaged and wrapped with a level of courtesy you rarely find anywhere else in the world. From rooftop golf putting ranges to kawaii children’s toyshops and dazzling food halls, they’re sensory feasts that…

1 Foscarini Aplomb suspension lamp, $820, Space Furniture. 2 AEG 90cm 6000 Series 5 Zone SaphirMatt Induction Cooktop, $4499, Harvey Norman. 3 Dusk bowl, $280, Unearthed Ceramics. 4 Plantation Green vase, $169, Domayne. 5 Grande Marble Verde Aver Satin Benchtop, $1650, Cerdomus. 6 Soft Pink Terrazzo STP-05, POA, Stone & Tile Projects. 7 Unearthed Raw Crackle cake platter, $275, Unearthed Ceramics. 8 Pauline barstool, from $2354, Fred International. 9 Meir Outdoor Kitchen Mixer 316 Stainless Steel, $509, Bathroom Sales Direct. PHOTOGRAPHY ANSON SMART. MERCHANDISING SAM YATES.…

Hot new restaurant and bar openings PAGE 16 Australian coffee in Japan PAGE 20 Melbourne’s latest luxe hotel PAGE 22 Rick Stein to open in Sydney PAGE 24 SYDNEY Paddington’s main thoroughfare has welcomed Caness, a Middle Eastern meets Mediterranean restaurant and snack bar in a former grocery store. Drawing on tapas-style dining, the 60-seater serves up denizens of the deep blue like saganaki prawns in a tomato and feta sauce; grilled octopus with a caper-studded dressing; and a soft brandade, which sees salted cod and potatoes become a creamy dip. There’s also a take on a sabich with fried eggplant, hard-boiled eggs and tahini atop pita; a beef tartare charged with pimentón and harissa; and a vegetarian shawarma crafted with delicious layers of mushrooms and celeriac. The 80-strong wine…

The Han Kitchen These organic noodles are a supermarket staple, and are best served slightly firm in a hot broth as they will continue to soften. Given they are slightly thinner they can also be done in a somen style, served cold with a tsuyu (a dashi, soy sauce and mirin) dipping sauce. $3.30 for 270gm, babag.com.au Kapok Finding fresh ramen noodles in major supermarkets is not an easy task, but if you head into an Asian grocer you’ll be rewarded with a plethora of extruded options. These excellent noodles are supple and moreish, making them ideal for homemade ramen. $7.50 for 400gm, various Asian grocers Hakubaku Prime for using in soups, these wheat noodles only need to cook for a couple of minutes. They can also be used in…

What I discover is a delicious and engaging procession of very well executed, seafood-forward dishes, all prepared by the Nodas in front of our eyes. “THEATRE RESTAURANT”. Words to strike fear into any heart and evoke visions of blousy frauleins juggling steins of ale and yodelling. Or conference-quality food served by actors in dracula suits, swooping around the tables and demanding “audience participation”. So when I saw R by Raita Noda, the new omakase restaurant in Sydney’s Wunderlich Lane precinct, describe itself as a “theatre restaurant”, I was wary. Would the chefs – the eponymous Raita Noda himself and his son Momotaro – appear in a cloud of dry ice? Slice sashimi mid-air with a samurai sword? Mercifully, as I work my way through the restaurant’s 10 modern Japanese courses…

You come from a family of winemakers – why are you the only one focusing on fizz? I was born and raised in the world of wine, but I knew far less about Champagne. The moment that really changed my life was the first time I tasted some old Champagne vintages, when I was an intern. That was the day I realised Champagne is a wine! Right then, I decided to stay and work in Champagne. Be honest: does it matter what glass you serve Champagne in? It’s hugely important. I have two types of glasses at home – a white and a red – and I play with both. It’s fun to do that when friends come over. If I pour La Grande Dame 2018 into two different glasses,…

HUGGING THE VOLCANIC LANDSCAPE OF KYUSHU, the most southerly of Japan’s four main islands, the town of Hasami is a hive of activity. Alongside timber houses and rice terraces, family-run workshops dot the small, winding streets. In an area renowned for porcelain, each workshop specialises in one thing – mould making, glazing, firing, and so on – handling a single element of production, then handing it off to another artisan nearby for the next step. “There’s a very complex set of scheduling that happens within the town that I’m not fully privy to,” says Layla Cluer with a laugh. An Australian designer, she first visited the area in 2023 while researching alternative manufacturing locations for Softedge, the tableware brand she was producing in her studio just outside Byron. With its…

SOFT, CHEWY, AND DELICATELY SWEET, MOCHI IS MORE THAN JUST a Japanese dessert – it’s a cultural figure with centuries of tradition infused in its sticky origins. One of the essential Japanese foods, thanks to its celebratory significance, its origins trace back to Japan’s Heian period, when it was reserved for nobility. Traditionally, it’s prepared with quite a ceremony, calling upon a huge mortar and pestle to rhythmically pound steamed mochigome (a short-grain glutinous rice). In this iteration, and at most restaurants, rice flour is used rather than rice, making it much more achievable. Our three variations include matcha joined by a white chocolate ganache; one filled with red bean paste traditionally known as daifuku, dusted with freeze-dried strawberry to offset the sweet bean paste; and a sesame praline, in…

The art of seeking silence PAGE 118 Where chefs eat and drink in Japan PAGE 128 GT at Sea Crystal Symphony PAGE 136 A love letter to Japanese depāto PAGE 138 I DIDN’T KNOW HOW MUCH I NEEDED a serving of silence until I boarded the commuter train between Kyoto and Osaka. This was my first trip to Japan, touring fabulous but frenetic cities, and I didn’t yet know that quietness on Japanese trains is legendary, something sacred. After the bright lights, blaring sounds and bold flavours of Osaka, stepping onto a silent train felt like reclaiming my hijacked brain. I was devastated when my photographer companion gently informed me the journey was just 13 minutes long. I’ve since learned that the tradition of respectful silence on commuter trains in…

WHEN A&K TRAVEL GROUP BOUGHT AILING CRYSTAL CRUISES IN 2022, they picked up the brand’s 1995 grand dame Crystal Symphony, an elegant 12-deck cruiser. The ship was significantly refurbished, 85 per cent of staff reengaged and loyal passengers lured back with a multi-pronged promise: the service and ambience they’ve long cherished plus contemporary suite options, reinvigorated dining and shore excursions that make the most of A&K’s expertise in land tourism. It’s a compelling offer: Symphony is stately and refined, with room for 606 passengers and a staff ratio that’s almost one-to-one. GT sailed on Symphony between Mumbai and Colombo, a three-night trip with a day excursion in Goa. With seas as flat as a blanket and the days warm and lazy, it was a lovely opportunity to explore the vessel’s…

Statement maker PAGE 151 Object of desire PAGE 154 1 Sophie Lite chair, $4485, Poliform Australia. 2 Ingo Maurer Floatation suspension lamp, POA, Space Furniture. 3 Tom Dixon Bell portable table lamp, $475, Top3 by Design. 4 Umber (2015) by lldiko Kovacs, POA, Martin Browne Contemporary. 5 Newhaven buffet in Navy, $4495, The Block Shop. 6 Shark NeverChange5 Air Purifier Max, $450 7 Stellar Works Rén round dining table, $4685, Living Edge. 7 Dish wall light, $495, Nook Collections. 8 Cafu medium vase, $240, Georg Jensen. 9 Dish wall light, $495, Nook Collections PHOTOGRAPHY ANSON SMART. / PHOTOGRAPHY ANSON SMART. MERCHANDISING SAM YATES.…

Standing desks, daily step targets and the pandemic-related renaissance of comfy footwear may have rebranded sitting as the eighth deadly sin, but let’s be clear: we all dabble. Thankfully, there’s a solution. Designed in 1970 to fit the tiptoe footprint of Japanese homes, the Nychair X’s stainless steel frame and pleasingly cylindrical beechwood arms join forces with a low-slung cotton seat, creating a superb lounging position. But the real clincher? The whole rig folds up to just 15-centimetres wide, meaning you can hide it in a cupboard when required, maintaining the illusion of perpetual motion and extreme importance. Nychair X in Hamilton Brown, $1100, providerstore.com.au PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER. STYLING SAM YATES.…