Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2025 i Gourmet Traveller

SUBSCRIBE NOW magshop.com.au/gmt Details p70 Walking into this month’s cover shoot was like entering our very own Vivid installation. Pools of pink and purple light lit up our food studio, as we leaned into the neon energy of our After Dark special. Instantly, I was transported to another time and place, recalling the bright lights and good times of late nights past. Speaking to Nigella Lawson this month about her upcoming Vivid dinner series, she made the point that in the northern hemisphere, they have the twinkling lights of Christmas to brighten the winter darkness. “It seems to me that Vivid is a wonderful answer to that,” she says. “It lifts the spirits and is so beautiful.” In this issue, we hope to capture and share that same spirit; the…

Maidenii Roselle Bitter This wine-based amaro is leading the homegrown charge, with base notes of native roselle evened out by strawberry gum, Tasmanian pepperberry and salt bush. The best way to drink it? As a pre-dinner aperitif with a shot of soda water, or get fancy with a Negroni. $55 for 750ml, maidenii.com.au Saison Aperitifs Artichoke Vin Amaro Chef Dave Verheul (Embla) is behind this classic amaro. Historically, amaro was made from globe artichokes throughout Europe. For Verheul’s amaro, artichoke trim is brought into balance with cascara, lavender and Meyer lemon. He recommends sipping it with a block of ice and an orange wedge. $75 for 700ml, saisonaperitifs.com Økar Bitter Aperitivo Distilled in the Adelaide Hills, this amaro leans into the one traditional setback of Australian botanicals – bitterness. Layered…

What compelled you to go into winemaking? I grew up on the west coast of the north island, in one of the more rural parts of New Zealand. My parents are farmers and I grew up seeing them work 24/7. I knew I wanted a better work-life balance, but one that still tied into my horticultural, agricultural background, so I studied viticulture. I was only 17 and the legal drinking age was 21, at the time, but we’d always had wine on the table, to go with the lamb and beef from our farm, and homegrown vegetables. It felt natural to enjoy food and wine together. Do you have any advice on how to make the most out of a special bottle of wine? I don’t bother with too many…

WHEN I WAS NINETEEN, I WORKED AS a waitress in a 24-hour café in the city. I was at university. Everyone I knew was travelling in the summer. I was studying with would-be bankers, actuaries and economists, and though I had no interest in going anywhere with the handful of people I occasionally sat with, I longed to join them in the excitement to leave. I’d tried my hand in a few casual positions: a short-lived stint at a call centre; work experience at a suburban accountant’s; once, I’d attended a free two-day seminar to become a door-to-door salesperson for speciality cooking knives. All those gigs inevitably went south as soon as I started. After each one, I’d look a little further along the axis of my sturdy suburban life.…

WHAT WE DO IN THE SHADOWS PARKER BLAIN, PHOTOGRAPHER “Shooting at night has a chaotic buzz,” says Blain, who snapped these images of Melbourne nightlife. He rarely sets up shots, preferring to go with the flow. “There are so many organic, awkward, sloppy moments that I get to witness, while weaving around with chefs yelling ‘backs!’ That’s one of the reasons why documenting night service is fun, because there’s zero brief and you’re completely reliant on staff, chefs and guests.” Of course, not everyone is keen for their soirée to be captured. “There was one fellow who was on a date with someone who wasn’t his wife,” says Blain. “He asked me to delete all photos with them in the background. Actually, this has happened at multiple venues over the…

FOR A MAN WHO LEFT PARIS BECAUSE HE WAS SICK OF ITS RESTAURANT industry, it’s remarkable that Jean-Paul Prunetti has clocked up 39 years at France-Soir while effectively turning his Toorak Road site into Melbourne’s ninth arrondissement. A restaurant so French it’s practically smoking a Gauloises while twirling its moustache, France-Soir has earned its icon status. Little changed since 1986, its menu is a rollcall of Gallic certainty from omelette au fromage to salade Niçoise and steak frites. The 4500-bottle wine list might induce Stendhal syndrome among lovers of Bordeaux and Burgundy. A black-and-white-clad tribe of accented waiters add their own frisson. Directors, musicians and performers of all stripes beeline to France-Soir when they’re touring. They’re drawn by its excess of comfort and a closing time of no earlier than…

There is a moment I’ve learned to expect on every night out I’ve ever had in Madrid, when I look around the room, exhale and think, “God, I love Madrid.” It’s past midnight at Candela, a legendary tablao (flamenco bar) that has recently been reopened by a collective of seven people, including former Spanish MasterChef winner Angela Gimeno and her friends, who are film producers, musicians, actors and other creative types. The relaunch of Candela is a big deal for the lively neighbourhood of Lavapiés; many of Madrid’s tablaos didn’t survive Covid and its aftermath, and la cueva (the cave, aka the basement bar at Candela) had been a cherished incubator for flamenco talent since the 1980s. Soulful, powerful and fierce, flamenco music and dance has its musical roots in…

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A wine bar collaboration, an east coast group hitting the big state and a speciality udon spot are among this month’s movers and shakers. SYDNEY In Sydney’s inner east, Jean-Paul El Tom of Baba’s Place and Sixpenny’s Daniel Puskas have joined forces to explore Hungarian food, taking over Corner 75 in Randwick. The old-school institution has a new lease on life thanks to its new custodians, who are keeping the soul of the longstanding restaurant alive while adding a post-modern and slightly Australian spin. With all the heart of Baba’s Place and the exacting finesse of Sixpenny, it heralds a welcome new standard to the neighbourhood’s dining scene. Menu-wise you’ll find a classic golden schnitzel; a complex and hearty gulyásleves (beef and potato soup); and a chicken broth with semolina…

Review ANYONE FAMILIAR WITH THE work of restaurateur Jason M Jones and his designer partner Brahman Perera won’t be shocked that their latest venture, a Parisian-themed bar called Gigi, is an exuberantly decorated affair. Located upstairs in a building opposite their exuberantly decorated French restaurant Entrecôte, Gigi is an explosion of ruched curtains, antique chandeliers and shaded sconce lighting, velvet upholstery and hand-painted walls by artist-designer Melissa Macfarlane (and also co-owner of Kyneton’s Botanik). Away from the main, street-facing salon, there’s a tiny, moodily lit “galerie” space slathered in paintings and a charming outdoor terrace. Altogether it’s a witty, campy call to indulgent good times. Given that Gigi is a late-opening companion bar to Entrecôte, the food side of the equation is firmly set to snacks. Some, like a warm…

AN ADEPTLY PREPARED WHISKY COCKTAIL MIGHT BE the best complement to a crisp evening beside a crackling fire. The notion of tempering whisky with sweetness, namely sweet vermouth, first appeared in the 1880s with origins tied to the Manhattan Club in New York City’s Theater District. The Manhattan cocktail, made with bourbon, birthed the Rob Roy, calling for Scotch whisky, which would evolve into the more herbal Bobby Burns that Dana Whyte, co-owner of Adelaide’s Clever Little Tailor feels fits the bill as days shorten. Adapting the Bobby Burns to Australian tastes is merely one more change to an often disputed recipe. A 1931 mention in Old Waldorf Bar Days, for instance, calls it the Robert Burns, which includes orange bitters and absinthe. “We use Mackintosh Blended Scotch Malt –…

One-pan prawn casarecce with kefalotiri SERVES 4 // PREP 20 MINS // COOK 15 MINS 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 Spanish onion, finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 red long chilli, thinly sliced 2 tsp each finely chopped oregano and thyme 1 tsp rigani (see tip box) 150 ml white wine 500 ml (2 cups) fish stock 2 400 gm can cherry tomatoes 300 gm casarecce 500 gm large uncooked prawns, peeled, tails intact 2 tbsp finely chopped dill, plus extra sprigs to serve 3 tsp fish sauce Finely grated zest of 1 lemon, plus 1 tbsp juice Finely grated kefalotiri and dried chilli flakes, to serve 1 Heat olive oil in a large casserole over medium heat. Add onion, garlic and chilli and cook, stirring occasionally,…

JUNDA KHOO, HO JIAK Tom yum roti pizza MAKES 2 // PREP 40 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS RESTING) “Tom yum pizza was my favourite when I used to go to a hawker stall at Gurney Drive in Malaysia growing up. One day, it struck me: what if we use the roti dough we make at the restaurant to make a pizza base. We did, and our tom yum roti pizza was born!” 1 Spanish onion, thinly sliced 200 gm pineapple, peeled, cored, coarsely chopped 100 gm (1 cup) grated mozzarella 12 uncooked prawns, peeled, tails intact 1 long red chilli, thinly sliced, plus extra to serve Coriander, to serve ROTI DOUGH 250 gm (1 2/3 cup) baker’s flour 2 tsp sugar 1½ tbsp ghee TOM YUM SUGO 200…

1 Bayer Armchair in United Parterre, $1295, MCM House. 2 Beckett Straw floor rug, $1350, Baya. 3 Le Labo Encens 9 classic candle, $130, Mecca. 4 Sia chair in Bronze, POA, Tomfereday. 5 Tom Dixon Bell portable LED table lamp in Fluoro Orange, $425, Farfetch. 6 Architectural Grey Polished/Honed concrete, POA, Geostone. 7 McMullin x September Studio vase, $229, McMullin. 8 Flute coffee table in Lacquered Granata, from $2155, Poliform. PHOTOGRAPHY DAVE WHEELER. INTERIOR STYLING CLAIRE DELMAR. MERCHANDISING ALEXANDRA HARRIS.…

Inspiring communities globally with her humility, humanity and generosity of spirit, Nigella Lawson is a remarkable role model. Nigella embodies awareness and authenticity, and here in Australia, we are fortunate to have experienced her engaging presence and wisdom through her regular visits and appreciation for local eateries. For more of Nigella’s favourite places to eat in Australia, see gourmettraveller.com.au NIGELLA LAWSON HAS LOST COUNT OF how many times she’s been to Australia. She tries to come every year. But she can recall precisely what first sparked her infatuation with our sunburnt country. “It must have been in the ’90s, there were these really fantastic Australian food magazines,” she recalls. We quickly establish that, yes, Gourmet Traveller was indeed one of these titles. “There were various magazines, which really opened my…

It takes a luxe, very modern approach – think earthy tones and striking features – and pairs it with vibrant flavours of Latin America. I’VE NEVER BEEN TO LATIN America, but I can’t imagine too many restaurants looking quite like Norté and its rooftop bar, Sueño. What I can imagine, however, is eating raw scallops dressed in tangy mango leche de tigre somewhere beachside – maybe with a cold pisco sour in hand. That seems to be the very idea behind Norté, the latest venue from the team behind Rick Shores, Central, and Southside. Designed by J.AR Office, it takes a luxe, modern approach – think earthy tones and striking features – and pairs it with the vibrant flavours of Latin America. You might begin with those aforementioned scallops, fresh…

NATURAL SELECTION Victoria’s Yarra Valley has a cool new destination to check out. Fin Wines’ chic cellar door and tasting room shows off lo-fi and indie wines, from a chilled red to prosecco/vermentino pet nat. Stars of the snack menu include the City Larder pâté, LP’s saucisson and Chappy’s chips with Fin’s own vinegar. finwines.com.au PLUS ONE Minimal intervention is the calling card of this 2020 Eden Valley bottling. Notes of red cherry and plum lend The Masterpiece shiraz its boldness, while white pepper brings the spice. Serve this with a grilled rib-eye and black truffle butter at your next dinner party. $140, millonwines.com.au SPOTLIGHT ON Ben Ingall, group bars manager at Liquid & Larder, tells us what he’s drinking after dinner and his favourite cocktail combinations. To entertain a…

A SMOOTHER ALTERNATIVE: RUM & RUM LIQUEURS Rum is a softer, spicier option for those not keen on the traditional nightcap of whisky. Spiced rum makes for a versatile dessert companion, pairing well with sticky date pudding or crème brûlée. Meanwhile rum liqueurs offer a lower-alcohol alternative that still delivers complexity. Served neat or over ice, they bring the same warmth but with a dessert-like appeal. A rum liqueur with caramel and vanilla notes is the perfect segue from dinner to relaxation. Try: Red Mill Spiced Rum combines vanilla, cardamom and cinnamon with a hint of orange peel, offering a rich, balanced sip. The spirit shows delightfully unexpected dried apricot and tropical guava notes, making it ideal to round out an evening if heavy oak or smoky peat isn’t for…

IF THERE’S A LATE-NIGHT FOOD TO RULE THEM ALL, IT HAS TO BE FRIED chicken, and Korean fried chicken showcases it in all its glory. “I love the texture, the crunchy batter and the juicy meat underneath,” says Eun Hee An of Melbourne’s beloved Moon Mart. “Korean chicken also has glazes, which adds sweet, salty and savoury elements to it.” In this recipe the chicken is brined in buttermilk, fish sauce and salted krill, to tenderise and amplify its umami flavour. “For Koreans fried chicken must be eaten with beer. We call this chik-mek, as mekju is the Korean word for beer,” says Hee An. When it comes to choosing a brew, any light rice lager goes well. “Korean brands like Cass are very simple but very refreshing and complementary.…

I COME FROM A FAMILY THAT HAS ALWAYS BEEN obsessed with food and produce. Living in Ahmedabad in the west of India, we were fortunate enough to have access to abundant local produce, as well as produce from the other 27 geographically and culturally diverse states of India. My family’s cooking techniques and food philosophy were clear, and perhaps ahead of their time: source your own produce, follow seasonality, preserve and ferment skilfully, consume a balanced diet, and make everything from scratch. Growing up with these guiding principles has always fuelled my curiosity and passion for cooking. Since the early days of Enter Via Laundry in 2018, I have been researching regional Indian cuisine, discovering that to truly understand a cuisine it is important to first understand the country and…

STAY The corner of Baptist and Cleveland Streets in Redfern may not have been an obvious choice for a five-star hotel and luxury hospitality precinct, given its less-than-salubrious history. But as The Eve Hotel finally opens its doors, the developers’ big dreams have become a brick and brass reality, revealing one of Sydney’s greatest property glow-ups. The moment you catch sight of her rust-coloured curves, you’ll be forced to admit; she’s a looker. Inside, things get even better as architects SJB marry elegant arched hallways and custom glazed ceramics to deliver maximum contrast and wow factor. Interior details by George Livissianis and artwork curated by David Stein bring an extra layer of sophisticated quirk, including a glittering gold face mask in the lobby, which cries illuminated tears upon check out.…

The world of kitchen appliances is largely divided into workhorses and show ponies. Very rarely does a product ascend from the blueprints into the third equestrian category: unicorn. The Ooni Halo Pro Spiral Mixer is one of those mythical beasts. A feat of engineering, it boasts no fewer than 58 whisper-quiet levels of RPM, allowing its seven-litre bowl to pirouette effortlessly around the dough hook and removable breaker bar – a feature generally reserved for commercial bakers. Proven to produce elegantly long gluten strands that translate to superior dough, the result is part science, part magic. Meanwhile, with its sharp lines in brushed stainless steel and die-cast aluminium, you’ll be tempted to get it valeted with the Ferrari. Ooni Halo Pro Spiral Mixer in Charcoal Grey, $1099, au.ooni.com PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA…