Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2025 i Gourmet Traveller

SUBSCRIBE NOW magshop.com.au/gmt Details p52 There is something special about this time of year; that short window between the last of the summer heat and the arrival of winter’s drab grey cloak. Autumn often feels like the shortest of our seasons, which only adds to its allure. The fact it falls in step with both Easter and Anzac Day – which happily converge as back-to-back long weekends this year – is certainly part of its charm. Some of my fondest memories as a teenager, and well into my twenties, are of April long weekends in New Zealand. When it’s still warm enough for a bracing morning dip yet cool enough to sip pinot noir, fireside, as night falls (or perhaps Vodka Cruisers if we’re recalling my younger years). It’s also…

Tell us about your path to becoming a chef. My dad was a great home baker. He loved making classic treats like Monte Carlos and melting moments. I was always in the kitchen with him, helping out, and that’s where my passion for cooking began. I was then lucky enough to land my first job as a pastry chef at Glass Brasserie. Within four years, I worked my way up to chef de partie, then after two years away, I came back as the head pastry chef. And after 12 years at Glass in 2024, I was promoted to chef de cuisine. It’s been quite a journey, but this restaurant has always felt like home. Now you’re in the top job, how are you putting your stamp on things? I’m…

Carwari organic black tahini Black sesame seeds have a slightly more complex and bitter flavour profile, which comes across pleasantly in this rich offering. Best used as the dramatic finishing touch to a dish or in baked goods. $10 for 375gm, harrisfarm.com.au Spiral Foods organic tahini Hulled tahini – using sesame seeds whose outer husks have been removed – boasts |a creamier flavour profile. This smooth paste is a perfect example, prime for making hummus or drizzling over grilled meats. $9.70 for 375gm, sunnybrookhealthstore.com.au Yalla tahini dip While technically a dip (made from tahini paste mixed with lemon, vinegar and garlic), the light, fluffy consistency makes this easy to stir through salad dressings or enjoy with veggies or falafels. $6 for 200gm, onlinestore.wholefoodshouse. com.au Al Kanater Tahini sesame paste This…

How did you come to love wine? My family has always enjoyed great wine. Although I never grew up in a winery, a good bottle of plonk on the dinner table was where it all began for me. My family home is situated on the fringe of the Yarra Valley, so it was through proximity that I found myself drawn into wine and the industry. A wine that changed your life? 1990 Domaine de Courcel Pommard Premier Cru. This was my birth year wine, opened for me by James Halliday at the end-ofvintage party at Coldstream Hills in 2012. It was not only such a privilege to have a wine of my birth year opened for me from James’s personal cellar – it also began my curiosity for pinot noir,…

IT’S A MASTERCLASS IN CONTRASTS, THE spiritual meeting the visceral. We’re in the final stages of a velvety twilight that’s descending on Currawong Lakes, a spectacular 810-hectare private wilderness retreat encircled by forest reserves in the highlands behind Tasmania’s east coast. As the darkness deepens and a blaze of stars begins to make its presence felt, the only sounds are the wind in the surrounding eucalyptus forests, some dwindling goodnight birdsong, a rising chorus of frogs from the property’s three freshwater lakes and the squelching, cracking sounds of a recently shot deer being field-dressed by torchlight after being winched into a tree. Witnessing the fascinating and, to the uninitiated, confronting spectacle of this real-time butchery are three chefs. They’ve gathered at Currawong Lakes because of a shared passion for and…

Fig leaf-baked brie with pickled figs and fennel seed fougasse SERVES 6-8AS A STARTER // PREP 1 HR 15 MINS // COOK 50 MINS (PLUS PROVING, COOLING) Encasing brie in a fig leaf before baking infuses it with a subtle fruity flavour. Its ideal accompaniment? A chewy spelt fougasse for dipping and peppered pickled fig, which offsets the rich and nutty qualities of the oozy cheese. Start this recipe 1 day ahead. 1 large edible fig leaf (see note) 400 gm triple-cream brie, such as Fromagerie Rouzaire Coulommiers 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced 1 tbsp thyme, plus extra to serve FOUGASSE DOUGH 300 gm (2 cups) baker’s flour 100 gm spelt flour ¼ tsp dried yeast Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing Fennel seeds and sea salt flakes, for sprinkling PICKLED…

CHEF LOUIS TIKARAM KNOWS HIS WAY AROUND A PEKING DUCK. “IT’S ONE of those dishes that when done right is probably the most perfect dish I have ever eaten,” says Tikaram. The name given to one of Beijing’s most famed dishes has also become the name for the breed of duck used in the classic, and the dish’s hallmarks from its deep amber skin to its rendered fat are appreciated globally. At Tikaram’s modern Cantonese fine-diner Stanley, it’s been a staple of the menu since opening. “We designed the kitchen around this one dish with a whole room designed specifically for the cooking of ducks, custom stainless steel hanging racks and a cool room,” says Tikaram. Alongside dishing out ducks at his own restaurant, Tikaram also cites Mr Wong in…

ONE OF THE MOST FABULOUS THINGS ABOUT getting older is that we are allowed to have “rules” about how we travel. You know, those things we didn’t have, as teenage or twenty-something travellers. You could also call them “standards”. By this point in my life, I’ve essentially written an entire constitution regarding How I Holiday, with appendices and amendments that will continue to be tweaked, challenged and furiously rewritten – by me – until I die. (I hope to die on a memory-foam sun-lounger adjusted to the perfect gradient, holding a Dirty Martini mixed just the way I like it, listening to a Tolstoy audiobook narrated by Stephen Fry in his prime, or, potentially, a nicely aged Ben Whishaw, in a yet-to-be-determined destination that I return to throughout my eighties;…

STAY Out with the old and in with the new has never been a popular sentiment along the Victorian capital’s storied streets, but in the case of the handsome new Melbourne Place hotel, credit must be given where due. The 14-storey hotel took over the site of the old Theosophical Society and Bookshop – a blue and cream Art Deco building on bustling Russell Street – in late 2022 before blossoming into the rust-hued splendour it is today ($155 million and several administrative setbacks later). Now, cleverly cloaked in the classic red-brick stylings of the surrounding CBD streets, the luxe high rise is home to 191 perfectly appointed rooms and suites, as well as an impressive flight of food and beverage offerings; from a rooftop restaurant and bar with incredible…

THE REGION The elegance of the Hamptons meets the history of Hobart in Port Fairy, which was officially named in 1828. Formerly known as Belfast, the town is centred around a picturesque wharf once used by whalers and seal hunters. These days it’s an upscale holiday town, with boutiques and dining options on the main drag of Sackville Street, and one of the most respected music festivals in the country – Port Fairy Folk Festival – attracting big names each March. There are several stunning beaches to enjoy, including the popular family swimming spot Pea Soup, and a gorgeous lighthouse walk on Griffiths Island, with a windswept shearwater bird colony accessible via pedestrian bridge. The wider region has been home to the Gunditjmara people for more than 30,000 years, and…

A symbol of rebirth since the time of ancient Greece, the phoenix was famous for rising from its own ashes. Never has there been a more fitting metaphor for the transformative properties of tea. Calling on more than 265 years of craftmanship, Wedgwood’s Phoenix collection depicts the mythical creature taking flight across delicate bone china, handpainted and embellished with 22-carat gold detailing. An ideal way to celebrate those precious moments of pause in an otherwise hectic schedule. Hot tip: works just as well for accommodating a latte, though don’t tell the tea purists we said that. Phoenix teacup and saucer, $899, wedgwood.com.au WORDS CERI DAVID. PHOTOGRAHPY ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING SAM YATES.…

MELBOURNE Sydney chef Junda Khoo will bring his clever take on Malaysian flavours to Melbourne with a slated Easter opening. Landing a three-level site at 235 Bourke Street with an entrance on Royal Lane, each floor will feature a separate menu and vibe. “So, it’s like having three different Ho Jiak concepts under one roof,” says Khoo. The ground floor will be home to Da Bao, with a street-food focus. Expect “stufflike nasi lemak, Hainan chicken rice and a bain-marie with different dishes – similar to the “chap fan” stores on the street in Malaysia”. The first floor – named Ho Jiak after the original in Sydney’s Strathfield – is set to be more formal, exploring the cultural intersections of the cuisine with a levelled-up playfulness. “That’s where we will…

YOU’RE NEVER FAR FROM A HEATED DEBATE WHEN discussing the origins of pisco. Whether you believe this humble brandy-like spirit belongs to Chile or Peru, the origins of the Chilcano almost always return to the backstreets of Lima, hinging on the creativity of early 20th-century Italian immigrants longing for a Buongiorno. Replacing grappa with pisco is a straightforward swap, and it’s a highball-style drink Alex Brownbridge – co-owner of Daisy Bar in Geelong – deems complex. “Pisco brings grassiness and smoke, while lime juice and ginger ale provide acidity and spice,” he says, claiming this simple three-ingredient cocktail is greater than the sum of its parts. “Our Take Two is a rework of the Chilcano in which we dial up the heat and vibrancy through the addition of dried chilli…

THE 21ST CENTURY HAS BEEN KIND to anyone with an adventurous palate. There’s now an astonishing variety of artisan foods and epicurean treats available, with consumers spoiled for choice in every aisle of the supermarket. You can find the exact roast profile of coffee you like, the particular hops you favour in beer, and the specific amount of sourness you prefer in bread. For anyone with decision anxiety, it’s a delectable nightmare. At first glance, modern-day chocolate shelves offer the same abundance. There are countless attractive brands, bright colours and exciting flavours on offer, but behind all those tempting wrappers, you might be surprised by the lack of diversity. Most mass-produced chocolate is made from similar cacao beans – the main ingredient of chocolate – and usually offers the same…

SERVING SUGGESTION Add some fried haloumi or lamb kofta to add extra protein and make this a complete meal. Roasted eggplant and ezme salad V SERVES 2 // PREP 15 MINS // COOK 25 MINS 1 large eggplant (about 500gm), halved lengthways 1 tsp cornflour 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Charred flatbread, to serve EZME SALAD 1 golden shallot, finely chopped 1 large vine-ripened tomato, deseeded, finely chopped 1 small red capsicum, seeds and membrane removed, finely chopped ¼ cup (loosely packed) flat leaf parsley, finely chopped 2 tbsp lemon juice 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 tsp Aleppo pepper, plus extra for sprinkling 1 Preheat oven to 220°C fan-forced. Score eggplant in a diamond pattern, then dust cut sides with cornflour.…

Hoor Al Qasimi is a global force for good, using art as a way to heal and connect. In her two-decade long practice, what shines through is her generosity of spirit in uniting the international community. Currently ranked as the most influential figure in contemporary art by ArtReview magazine, Al Qasimi champions visibility for marginalised voices while maintaining excellence in her curatorial programming and leadership roles. IN 2002, WHEN ARTIST AND CURATOR Hoor Al Qasimi was just 22 years old, she was appointed director of the Sharjah Biennial. Today, she is a leading figure in the international art world. Al Qasimi is the president and director of Sharjah Art Foundation, which she founded in 2009, the artistic director of the sixth Aichi Triennale in Japan, and the artistic director of…

A CHAMPAGNE CART IS THE spiffy scene-setter for this sleek new addition to Adelaide’s Festival Plaza. Beverage director Mathieu Smeysters rolls between tables, accompanying Louis Roederer and rare grower Champagne with a side of storytelling – a great way to kick off a meal in Adelaide’s CBD. When Station Road opened in late 2024, the French-inspired bistro was just what the newly developed Festival Plaza needed. Four months on it’s the place to be seen. From Wednesday to Saturday, city workers drop in for moules frites, part of a French Classics lunchtime series, dipping crisp fries in Port Lincoln mussels swimming in white wine and cream broth. Later, a crowd pops in for snacks after a show at the Festival Centre or before events at Adelaide Oval. With capacity for…

TREND SET Handpicked lemons lend the traditionally distilled Poroso Limoncello its clean flavour and creamy mouthfeel. It’s our pick for a long weekend away with friends. $54, drinkporoso.com GOURMAND GAME Clare Valley Gourmet Week festival is setting the stage for South Australian wines this May. Opening with a six-course dégustation dinner courtesy of chef and sommelier Nicola Palmer, 34 events will pepper the 10-day agenda, from masterclasses and long lunches to twilight tastings. May 16 to 25, clarevalleygourmet.com.au SPOTLIGHT ON Andy Ainsworth, owner-operator at Daylesford’s Bar Merenda, lets us in onwhat bottle he’s bringing for a long weekend away and the wines to know. I will normally come armed with a magnum to share on a long weekend with friends. And it’s quite likely to be something cold and refreshing…

WITH PUBLIC HOLIDAYS ON THE HORIZON, the last thing anyone wants is to waste that bonus free time curating the perfect drinks menu for a barbecue, park picnic or beachside sipping session. In fact, there’s no need, thanks to the rise of premium, ready-to-drink beverages that combine ease with exceptional flavour. From crafted gin cocktails in a can to bagged boutique wine, these small-batch, carefully considered offerings redefine how we can enjoy a drink in the great outdoors. Innovation in flavour is key, provided it feels intentional. There’s a fine line between creativity and just throwing unusual ingredients together for the sake of it. The best versions of these new-wave drinks are balanced – taking cues from classic cocktail profiles, global drinking cultures, and the way people actually want to…

IF YOU’RE ANYTHING LIKE ME, THE IDEA OF going away for a long weekend stresses you out. In my mind, the prospect of packing everything I need for a few days, getting in a car, driving for half a day, only to pack it all up and drive back after 24 hours is not relaxing. Plus, I always come home missing a charger. What I like to do instead is take advantage of being in the city when everyone else is gone. I walk into restaurants that I usually have to stand in line for a seat. You know the ones I’m talking about. Tiny holes in the wall that bake their own bread, make hand-pulled noodles and grill spiced meats over charcoal. In my mind, I’m still travelling. I…

CLASSIC ROAST POTATOES Preheat oven to 200°C fan-forced. Boil 6 peeled and halved pontiac potatoes (1.2kg) in salted boiling water until almost tender (5 minutes). Drain; cover with a tea towel to steam dry (3 minutes). Cool slightly and rake rounded side of potatoes with the tines of a fork. Place, cut-side down, in a single layer, in an oiled roasting pan. Add 8 unpeeled garlic cloves and ¼ cup rosemary sprigs around potaotes, drizzle with 80ml olive oil and dot with 50gm chopped unsalted butter. Roast for 50 minutes, turning, until golden. Season. SPICED CHAT POTATOES Preheat oven to 200°C fan-forced. Halve 1kg baby chat potatoes and place in a roasting pan. Scatter potatoes |with 2 tsp fennel seeds and 1 tsp smoked paprika, drizzle with 2 tbsp olive…

“LUGMA IS AN ODE TO THE FOOD of my childhood, a mash-up of food from Bahrain and the surrounding countries, with a slightly Westernised take, thanks to my English roots,”says Noor Murad in Lugma. Murad is a Bahraini-British chef and author who has worked extensively for Yotam Ottolenghi as a chef and recipe developer. “Lugma is Arabic for a bite, or a mouthful,” she says. “Which seems fitting really, as I feel like my whole career has been centred around taking bites of things and analysing them: more acid here, a pinch of salt there, missing sweetness overall.” The cookbook has been a lifetime in the making for Murad, with Middle Eastern plates meeting Western dishes and finding their place together on the same table. Pan-fried tomatoes with za’atar, pine…

NATURAL ELEMENT Textural timber dominates the kitchen, while brass fittings and a crescent window keep interiors light. 1 KM 7897-2FL Diamond induction cooktop, $8399, Miele. 2 Danish bar stool in Dark Ash, $1330, TH Brown. 3 Leah Martin Remmy wall light in Aged Brass, POA, Bloomingdales Lighting. 4 Médie liquid soap, $159, Trudon. 5 Le Marais rug in Caramel, $11,000, Tigmi Trading. 6 Light Jarrah TrueScale Natural Woodgrain, POA, Laminex. 7 Peppy Taps 4-in-1filtered boiling, filtered ambient, hot and cold tap in Brass Gold, $2999, Harvey Norman. 8 Lituus large vase, $320, Georg Jensen. 9 Pipistrello Medio lamp, $4880, Tigmi Trading. CHARACTER ACTORS Heritage dining gets a bohemian upgrade with a provincial arch and washes of walnut wood. 1 Gubi Howard Chandelier 6-arm, from $3499, Cult. 2 Kelly Wearstler…