Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2025 i Gourmet Traveller

Wild, wonderful and untamed. That’s what the word Tasman means to me. It’s shorthand for a certain kind of energy or outlook – one that values rugged beauty and simple pleasures over more polished, finessed details. The same kind of energy that considers slow mornings and a quiet mind, the real luxuries in life. Of course, the Tasman is the very thing that separates Australia from New Zealand but that Tasman spirit, I would argue, is what unites the two countries and its people more than anything else. In this issue, we embrace that spirit as we explore both sides of the Tasman and uncover a trove of natural wonders, sitting right on our doorstep. Food writer Leisha Jones shares a convincing argument to make Auckland your next extended stopover,…

Proud Wuthathi, Yadhaigana and Meriam woman, Dr Terri Janke is an international authority on Indigenous cultural and intellectual property. I am inspired and guided by Dr Janke’s important message in the Powerhouse Caring for Country Principles, in which she discusses how “true acknowledgment is not just a sentiment or proceeding, but an ongoing behaviour and responsibility”. IT WASN’T AN ISOLATED INCIDENT, BUT it was a defining one all the same; the moment a judge mistook Dr Terri Janke as the defendant in court. “That was a breakthrough,” says Janke, casting her mind back to the late 1980s when she was a law student shadowing the solicitor she worked for. Dr Janke is a Wuthathi, Yadhaigana and Meriam woman and an international authority on Indigenous cultural and intellectual property. “I always…

EVEN IF YOU KNOW IT’S THERE, Astral Weeks is easy to miss. Hiding in plain sight in a busy Chinatown laneway, Perth’s first listening bar has little in the way of signage. And unless the front door is ajar, you won’t hear it, either: such is the quality of the acoustic treatment they’ve invested in. In short, there’s nowhere better out west to appreciate great music alongside top-shelf beverages. But what if you felt like eating something more substantial than olives, bread and wine bar standards? You want Ah Um, the Astral crew’s restaurant offshoot that opened in September. Guests enter Ah Um through an unmarked sliding door at the back of the bar: a portal separating Astral Weeks from a Stranger Things-style Upside Down universe that flips elements of…

What led you to a career in wine? Tasting some classic Australian wines from my father’s cellar put winemaking in my mind. Meeting other winemakers over the years, I know I made the right choice. A wine that changed your life? It’s more often the generosity of the people who have shared wines with me that’s life-changing. A couple of standouts have been a 1952 (or ’54) Spanish Pedro Ximénez (producer unknown as the label was illegible) shared by a winemaker I worked for in the Rhône Valley, and a 1994 Mt Langi Ghiran Cabernet that was a wedding gift from a colleague there. Cool-climate cabernet is underrated. Are you a traditionalist or an innovator? A little of both. At Maxwell Wines, our classic McLaren Vale styles have such a…

WHEN CRAFTING BEVERAGES THAT CAPTURE a sense of place, Tasmania is carving out a reputation that’s as refreshing as its air. The island state’s pristine environment and cooler climate create sensational conditions for producing exceptional drinks. But beyond its natural assets, Tasmania’s bountiful agriculture and a fiercely innovative drink culture have sparked a new wave of Tasmanian spirits, beers and ciders that push boundaries while staying rooted in their origins. Tasmania’s spirits industry, once dominated by its exceptional whiskies, now showcases an exciting diversity. Local distillers are experimenting with gin and vodka styles that celebrate the island’s flora and fauna. Gins such as Taylor & Smith Distilling Co. are infused with native botanicals including kunzea, wattleseed, and Tasmanian pepperberry that burst with earthy and citrusy complexity. Meanwhile, vodka producers leverage…

DOWNTOWN AUCKLAND HAS HAD A FRESH makeover, and at its heart is Te Komititanga — a public square framed by heritage buildings that connects Queen Street to the waterfront. The square is home to Queens Rooftop and Wineshop, where an unassuming elevator in a small wine shop transports guests to the bar and restaurant on the 21st floor. Some of the city’s most iconic scenes are on display here: sail boats careen under the Harbour Bridge; Rangitoto looms on the horizon; and the sun sets beyond dense native bush in the Waitakere ¯ Ranges. It’s an unparalleled vantage point to enjoy a seafood tower laden with market-fresh oysters, sashimi, and grilled mussels with coconut and chilli butter. It’s also just one of the eateries in the Commercial Bay precinct that…

Farinata with blistered tomatoes and chilli chickpeas DF GF V SERVES 2 // PREP 10 MINS // COOK 25 MINS (PLUS RESTING) 250 gm can chickpeas, rinsed, drained 100 ml olive oil, plus extra to shallow-fry ½ tsp paprika 1 long red chilli, thinly sliced 250 gm vine-ripened cherry tomatoes 1 avocado, peeled, stone removed, cut into wedges 1 cup (loosely packed) watercress Lemon wedges, to serve FARINATA BATTER 100 gm chickpea flour 250 ml cold water 1 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley and rosemary 1 For farinata batter, blend all ingredients with 1 tsp salt in a blender until smooth. Transfer to a jug, cover and set aside at room temperature to rest (30 minutes). 2 Heat 1cm oil in a large, deep frying pan…

KOKOMO PRIVATE ISLAND Chicken sang choi bau SERVES 6 AS A STARTER // PREP 15 MINS (PLUS SOAKING) // COOK 20 MINS “This light starter is loved by all ages,” says executive chef Andy Bryant. “The key elements are a sweet-and-sour flavour with crisp and crunchy goodness. Our Kokomo version is made with ingredients picked fresh from our organic farm garden.” 1 small iceberg lettuce 50 gm uncooked glutinous rice 2 tbsp peanut oil 600 gm chicken thigh fillets, cut into 1.5cm cubes 1 tbsp ginger cut into julienne (optional) 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tbsp fish sauce 1 tbsp light soy sauce (optional) 65 gm palm sugar, finely grated 2 tbsp lime juice 2 spring onions, thinly sliced ½ cup round-leaf mint ½ cup coriander leaves Chilli flakes…

ILLUSTRATION GETTY IMAGES ALLOW ME TO SHARE THE BEST THING ABOUT visiting Australia and New Zealand: a break from snobbery. More specifically, less snobbery around things that are completely ruined by snobbery in France, Italy, Germany, Britain or America. Take hiking. In Australia and New Zealand, people will shoo you up the nearest cliff or mountain in your flip-flops, telling you it will all be fine, just get out there and enjoy yourself. By contrast, to hike in outdoorsy European countries like Germany, Switzerland or France is to be brutally gear-shamed and generally fear-mongered. I am fairly adventurous and active, but when I hike in Europe, I feel the heavy judgment of every passing adventurer, questioning my footwear choices (too heavy! too flimsy! are those breathable? they don’t look waterproof…

Harvest is the ideal time to visit New Zealand’s oldest wine growing region. From late-March to May, the temperature drops to make cycling between the vineyards comfortable, and the wineries are buzzing with seasonal workers as they prepare to gather fruit from the vines. Produce is abundant, fires get stoked at night, and the region gears up for the Hawke’s Bay Food and Wine Classic, a week-long event boasting unique culinary experiences set in surprising and stunning locations. From the warm, sandy soils of Gimblett Gravels to the salt-splashed vines of Te Awanga, there’s a lot to cover in the region, and you’ll need a set of wheels to make the most of your time in the bay. Coastal Wine Cycles have a selection of imported California cruiser bikes they…

1 Flower sunglasses in Black, $580, Loewe. 2 Marle Oma hat in Black, $100, The Iconic. 3 Fella x MM Andre full piece in Red White Navy Stripe, $270, Maggie Marilyn. 4 The Jalen slim sandal in Black, $220, A.Emery. 5 Stripe boatneck long sleeve T-shirt, $340, Bassike. 6 Wesley trouser in Vintage White, $369, Posse. 7 Flush Balm cream blush in Lusitano, $48, Merit. 8 Casa Catinella basket bag in Natural, $290, Riise. 9 La Bonne Brosse N.01 The Universal Brush in Ink Blue, $248, Mecca. ABOVE Scenic Eclipse II. PHOTOGRAPHY ROB LOCKE (SCENIC ECLIPSE II). MERCHANDISING ALEXANDRA HARRIS.…

WHENEVER ANYONE HEARS you’ve been to Maison Bâtard – a four-level French fantasy inspired by the best brasseries of Paris – they have one question: should they go? The answer is an immediate and emphatic: yes. The latest blockbuster from Chris Lucas is a big-budget, unashamedly extra spectacle worth experiencing firsthand. It’s a full-throttle feast for the senses, offering just-shucked, ice-cold oysters with punchy mignonette; extravagant whole-roasted duck in creamy tomato bearnaise; and wobbling vanilla flan as good as any Paris bistro. There are similarities to Grill Americano, the restaurateur’s Manhattan-inspired steakhouse a few blocks away. But six years in the making, Bâtard is bigger and better. Behind its heritage façade – once home to the original Society restaurant – a sweeping staircase connects a velvet-clad jazz bar in the…

THERE’S A LOT TO BE SAID FOR THE LIFETIME BAN – a classically minded cocktail devised in the 2010s by New York City bartender Dan Greenbaum, somewhere between the vermouth-forward Reverse Martini and the Sherry-fragrant Bamboo. The kicker? Stirring the drink with fresh mint leaves in the mixing glass. It’s a nifty yet curiously uncommon technique, one that Kobi Ruzicka – chef-patron of perennial Hobart hotspots Dier Makr and Lucinda – is particularly fond of. “Adding other flavours straight into the mixing glass keeps things fresher,” he says, “and grabbing one or two sprigs of something from your front step can give you a completely different cocktail.” His punny spin, the Lifethyme Ban, trades mint for lemon thyme and will set the tone for the drinks list at Six Russell,…

IN AUSTRALIA, IT’S UNFORTUNATELY EASY TO overlook New Zealand wines. I know I’m guilty. However, these actions are typically never out of patriotism; our wine regions and possibilities cover many bases while the Old World provides classical excitement and famous, incomparable styles. On the periphery and across The Ditch, some incredible winemaking slips by unnoticed. But what contemporary wines should you direct your palate towards? PINOT NOIR Central Otago’s reputation with this grape is well-deserved. Dense, silken, and powerful, great examples are in one of the country’s driest places, Bannockburn, noted for its complexity of flavour and herbaceousness: producer Domain Road captures this perfectly. Meanwhile, neighbouring Queensberry and Wānaka offer more aromatics and elegance as demonstrated at Nanny Goat where fine pinot noir is the calling card. You may pay…

With a sexy swivel and curves for days, this lounge chair would be perfectly thrilling as a living room focal point. But to place Aura beside a fireplace or akimbo by a bookshelf would be selling it short. Because this version of King Living’s signature armchair was designed to elegantly occupy a place in the sun (and the wind and rain, too). With high resilience foam, a powder-coated base and weather-resistant fabric, the cloud-like piece is ready for anything the Australian climate can throw at it. On a balcony or in a courtyard, it pairs performance with comfort and an all-important designer edge. Aura outdoor swivel lounge chair, $2224, and Myco outdoor side table, $415, kingliving.com.au WORDS ANNA MCCOOE. PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY. STYLING SAM YATES.…

With origins tracing back to the ancient Aztecs and Incas, who ground roasted peanuts into a paste, peanut butter has long been a staple for sustenance and flavour. These days the nutrient-rich versatile spread is prime for sandwiches, smoothies, cookies and savoury dishes. From crunchy to smooth, these are four favourites. Chunky Dave’s chilli peanut butter The addition of chilli powder and cayenne pepper gives this spread a subtle kick. Opt for it on toast or use in satay with the addition of soy and fish sauce to bring a flavour kick to your next barbecue. $10 for 300gm, chunkydave.com.au Pic’s Smoochy peanut butter In peanut butter’s textural spectrum, this New Zealand-made spread nails the balancing act. It’s chunky enough to have bite without being dry or unspreadable. A pantry…

There’s something profound about savouring the dessert while watching bees pollinate the garden surrounding the rabbit warren of dining spaces. PAGE ONE OF ONDEEN’S lunch menu gets straight to the point, listing the number of kilometres between the restaurant and the patch of land or water from which ingredients came. Among them Hidden Valley Eggs (12 kilometres), Laucke Flour (34 kilometres) and Section28 Artisan Cheeses (13 kilometres). Some are merely metres away. Pine needles used to marinate green olives were plucked from trees visible across the paddocks and lake framing the exquisitely renovated 1850s homestead. Ingredients are 95 per cent South Australian and the team, led by culinary director Kane Pollard and head chef Julian Peek, utilises every part of each plant and animal. Their approach is minimalistic; served fresh…

SPIRITED SIP To recognise its positive contribution to New Zealand’s West Coast, Reefton Distilling Co has been gifted Pounamu (treasured stone) by Māori tribe Te Rūnanga o Ngāti Waewae. The stone now sits in a specially commissioned filter, purifying the water that goes into Reefton’s spirits. The gesture brings the spirit of New Zealand’s Te Tai Poutini (West Coast) to the world via its Little Biddy Gin, from $100. reeftondistillingco.com GIN STAR Grape-based gins (as opposed to grain-based) are continuing to ride high as a silkier and fruitier iteration and New Zealand’s Strange Nature sauvignon blanc gin is the latest to enter the frame. Juniper is the only botanical used in this aromatic gin with the notes of candied grapefruit and makrut lime all coming from the spirit of New…

REGULARLY SLATED AS AUSTRALIA’S PREMIER COOL-CLIMATE DISTRICT, the Yarra Valley — with its soul-stirring vistas — is where generations of world-class winemaking have emerged, scarcely an hour from the bustling streets of Melbourne. Victoria’s oldest vines are spread across diverse microclimates, differing soils, and varying altitudes while split between two recognised Upper and Lower Yarra subregions. Overall, the area identifies as continental yet still has a notable oceanic influence, making it a complex place where grapes thrive. This is ardent pinot noir and chardonnay country, and a region you might rightly say has most influenced contemporary Australia’s lust for both. At the same time, elegant styles of shiraz push interpretations, uber smooth nebbiolo is a must, and food-friendly marsanne and rousanne, among a host of alternative varieties, offer the audacious…

IS THE LAMINGTON AN AUSTRALIAN-INVENTED ICON? Queensland makes a case for the affirmative, naming its Federation-era governor, Baron Lamington as its eponym. And while New Zealand also stakes a claim on its origins, it’s largely believed the Baron’s chef de cuisine Armand Galland was responsible for its creation in 1900 when he dipped leftover sponge in chocolate and coconut to feed a surplus of guests at Brisbane’s Government House. On that day, an afternoon tea icon was born. But why stop there? We asked some of Australia and New Zealand’s leading culinary minds to reinvent the humble sponge square and present their ultimate glam-ington. “Coming from a side of Japan in the ’90s where coconuts weren’t common, my first taste of a lamington was an inspiring moment”. BLACKBERRY AND PANNA…

Gourmet Traveller uses free-range pork and poultry, supplied by Australian Pork and Aurum Poultry, in the GT Test Kitchen and in all our photo shoots. In this issue, we use sustainable seafood supplied by Sydney Fish Market. WHEN IT COMES TO CRAFTING THE ULTIMATE FISH SANDWICH, THERE ARE MULTIPLE factors to consider. Firstly, the fish must be top quality. “Sand whiting is readily available and flakes beautifully. And slashing the skin prevents the fillet from curling,” shares GT food editor Maxwell Adey. “Crumbing fish holds better than a batter, so it sits well in the sandwich as it creates structure.” This recipe also pays homage to both British crustless sandwiches and Japanese konbini sandos. “The bread should be soft to contrast with the texture of the crisp crumbed fish,” says…

Scampi, apple and pepperberry tartare SERVES 4 // PREP 30 MINS Sweet New Zealand sashimi-grade scampi is the ideal carrier for the briny and tart flavours of capers, pickled shallot and raw Granny Smith apple in this unique take on tartare. If scampi is too difficult to source, sashimi-grade prawns or scallop meat are worthy substitutes. 1 golden shallot, finely diced 1 tbsp white wine vinegar ½ small Granny Smith apple 1 tsp drained baby capers, finely chopped 1 tsp finely chopped parsley 18 sashimi-grade scampi 1 tbsp lemon-infused extra-virgin olive oil ¼ tsp ground pepperberry (see note) 4 quail egg yolks Thinly sliced sourdough baguette, toasted, to serve 1 Combine shallot and vinegar in a small bowl and season to taste. Set aside, stirring occasionally, to pickle (15 minutes).…

“FROM WHEN I WAS VERY YOUNG, I FOUND GREAT JOY IN choosing recipes from my mother’s cookbooks. I relished spending my weekends immersed in their pages. I would write a list of everything I needed and scour the cupboards and fridge for anything we already had,” writes cook, author and GT contributor Julia Busuttil Nishimura in her latest cookbook Good Cooking Every Day. “We would walk to the local shops, list in hand, to collect any remaining ingredients needed. This love for planning and preparing meals was really nurtured throughout my childhood.” Busuttil Nishimura draws on her Maltese heritage and the realities of family life in Melbourne to shape her approach to cooking. Living in Tuscany in her 20s, Busuttil Nishimura witnessed what she calls, “an unspoken pleasure in food…

There are two wishes the sightseer makes when sailing towards Milford Sound, a dramatic fiord formed by the ancient, incremental rock-shaping push of glaciers from mountain to sea. The first is rain, because it makes the waterfalls run, turning casual trickles into violent cascades. The second is for that same rain to clear so you can see the natural wonders properly, rather than imagining them through romantic but frustrating mists. I make both those wishes as one of 200 passengers aboard the Scenic Eclipse II on the first day of its spring jaunt around Aotearoa New Zealand. We start at Bluff, the sleepy southern seaport known for its bike trails and plump oysters (shucking season is March to August), before powering north past the South Island’s rugged fiordland. Ahead of…