Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2024 i Gourmet Traveller

SUBSCRIBE NOW magshop.com.au/gmt Details p78 One of the most frequent arguments I have with my husband revolves around whether or not we should return to somewhere we’ve been – and loved – before, or venture somewhere new. My husband is a creature of comfort and revels in the familiar. I, on the other hand, love the thrill of venturing into uncharted territory – even when it means getting thoroughly lost in the process. Even my husband would agree (reluctantly) that some of our best adventures have stemmed from me dragging him somewhere unknown – whether it be another continent, or just a random back street we’ve never walked down before. This issue is dedicated to that joy of discovery and trying new things; heading off the beaten path to explore…

Kevin La’s food content creation behind his @sydneyfoodboy Instagram has garnered a cult following. This is owed to his delicious, colourful, energetic, culturally diverse, detailed and captivating posts, and even more so to his pure intention to celebrate the important multicultural communities who give soul to our country’s culinary landscape. Having connected with Kevin several times, all I’ve ever seen is one big smile on his generous, open face. Kevin’s authenticity brings out the very best in all who have the privilege of meeting him. “BRAH” ISN’T A TERM BANDIED ABOUT AT GT often. And here it comes; in the words of Sydney Food Boy’s Kevin La, “Seriously, brah this is good.” The social media star has dropped by for an interview. And since it’s lunchtime, he brought a container…

How did you come to love wine? A lot goes into wine from the vineyard into the bottle. That’s where the passion stems from. I am originally from the western district of Victoria, close to Coonawarra, so it started with an interest in agriculture and viticulture and the wine followed. A wine that changed your life? A bottle of 1975 Pierre Gimonnet Blanc de Blancs. I was in Champagne with industry friends and Pierre’s grandson, Didier, took us into the caves. He showed us their bottling lines and then we drank together. That bottle opened my eyes to the story wine can tell. What are you doing differently? We are moving away from “vintage” and “non-vintage” categories to create our own sparkling wine trajectory. Clover Hill is a world-renowned sparkling…

FOR DECADES, RAICILLA LIVED IN THE SHADOW of mezcal and tequila, an agave distillate dismissed as a moonshine of sorts and little known outside its home in the western Mexican state of Jalisco. Nowadays, by virtue of ancestral production methods and esoteric charm, it has found footing among discerning drinkers. Jeremy Blackmore, creative director of agave-spirit specialists Cantina OK! and Centro 86 in Sydney, considers himself a fan. “Raicilla is super interesting to mix with, as there are so many different flavours from the different areas it gets produced,” he says. “It can be earthy and sour in the Mascota valley; tropical, fruity and foot-like along the coast; or like blue cheese and old melon if from the Sierra – in a good way.” These offbeat flavours work especially well…

I LOVE DINING OUT SOLO. DON’T GET ME WRONG; eating in a restaurant in the company of others is one of life’s great pleasures, but this is not an either/or situation. Solo dining is its own genre, a choice as valid as dining with company and a rare example of absolute selfishness being totally guilt-free. No one suffers if you get to eat and drink exactly what and how much you want, then proceed to give what you’ve ordered your full attention or no attention at all. That you set your own pace, create your own experience, whether it’s bantering with the bartender (the bar is always my solo dining go-to), immersing yourself in a book or staring into space trying to figure out what herb is in the sauce…

WA SOFIKA BOULTON, SONNY’S Soft-spoken kitchen talent Sofika Boulton carries a big gift: her ability to absorb information and influences and transform them into polished, faff-free dishes. At free-spirited wine bar Sonny’s, she oversees a tight menu that’s by turns resourceful (steeping strawberry tops in white vinegar to make an oyster mignonette), smoky (the hearth does everything from grill coral trout to char flatbread) and technical (that jiggly Basque cheesecake!). More importantly, her cooking also ticks the box for delicious. In short: The quiet achiever. NSW JUN HWANG, WHITE HORSE Korean-born Jun Hwang has consulted here and there, and held head chef roles in the past. Under executive chef Jed Gerrard, however, he’s now leading the charge at the White Horse, one of Sydney’s most impressive new openings in what…

QLD SARAH BALDWIN, JOY If you manage to secure a booking at Joy, the intimate 10-seat dégustation-only restaurant, or snag a last-minute cancellation, expect a text confirmation from chef-owner Sarah Baldwin herself. This personal touch extends to the dining experience, where Baldwin personally greets you and exchanges names, before she cooks, plates and entertains as if you’re close friends gathered around her kitchen bench at home. Such interaction is rare, and Baldwin’s ability to keep guests comfortable – and captivated throughout the meal – is a joy to behold. In short: Heartfelt hospitality. TAS LACHLAN COLWILL AND SOPHIE POPE, OMOTENASHI To name your 10-seat restaurant after the Japanese concept of mindful hospitality is one thing; to embody it to its fullest is another. At Omotenashi, Sophie Pope and Lachlan Colwill…

Spiced ocean trout with celeriac slaw GF SERVES 4-6 // PREP 15 MINS // COOK 25 MINS (PLUS RESTING) 1 small side ocean trout (about 1 kg), skin removed, pin-boned 2 tsp sweet paprika 1 tsp crushed caraway seeds 1 garlic clove, crushed Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1½ tbsp lemon juice 1 small celeriac (about 500gm), peeled 1 pink lady apple, halved and thinly sliced 1 cup (loosely packed) soft herbs (such as dill, chervil, chives and parsley) Fried capers, to serve BUTTERMILK DRESSING 125 ml (½ cup) buttermilk 2 tbsp each mayonnaise and extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp each white balsamic vinegar and prepared horseradish Finely grated zest of 1 lemon, plus 1 tbsp lemon juice 2 tbsp finely chopped dill 1…

Fried colcannon pommes with rosemary and parmesan MAKES 30 // PREP 25 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS CHILLLING) We’ve added an Irish spin to the classic French croquette. Serve with its perfect pairing – aïoli – for a delicious appetiser. 500 gm sebago potatoes, peeled, coarsely chopped 2 garlic cloves, peeled 50 gm unsalted butter, chopped 60 ml (¼ cup) pouring cream ¼ tsp ground nutmeg 2 spring onions, thinly sliced 1 cup finely shredded kale 100 gm each finely grated Gruyère and Comté 100 gm Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated, plus extra to serve 100 gm (2/3 cups) seasoned plain flour, for dusting 2 eggs, lightly beaten 90 gm (1½ cups) Panko crumbs, for coating Vegetable oil, for deep-frying 3 rosemary sprigs AÏOLI 1 egg 1 tbsp lemon juice 1…

Oh. Mexico’s Byron Bay,” said a friend doubtfully when I revealed my plans to visit the increasingly fashionable – and pricey – seaside town of Tulum on Mexico’s Caribbean Coast. No shade on Byron Bay, of course, but I paled slightly. Crochet bikinis and handwritten neon signs behind palm-fringed al fresco cocktail bars have their place but I didn’t really want to spend too much time feeling like I was at Coachella-sur-Mer. Tulum sits on the site of one of the greatest lost Mayan cities, one that dates back at least 1500 years. Surely it hasn’t been completely surrendered to the influencers and rich ravers? Thankfully, I discovered that if you’re willing to put in a bit of legwork, the state of Quintana Roo, where Tulum is found, and the…

The moment an elegant decanter comes out at a dinner party usually sparks two reactions. The first is pure gratitude as it signals to the table the wine and indeed the imbibers are worth the extra effort. The next is the inevitable debate when a fellow diner prods, “But is decanting really necessary?” Riedel’s new red-rippled adaptation to its iconic Amadeo vessel makes a case for the affirmative. As per the 2006 original, released on the company’s 250th birthday, the sculptural lyre shape aerates wine as it swoops through, opening it up. Young wines benefit from a vigorous pour and few hours of “breathing” in the piece to burn off carbon dioxide. To that end, mature wines do better with a gradual pour down the decanter walls to separate out…

SYDNEY A sharp new-wave Italian restaurant is coming to Redfern in early August with a gun hospitality team on deck. Attenzione Food & Wine unites former colleagues and childhood friends Felix Colman (part owner of Ragazzi and Fabbrica), Toby Davis (ex-Yellow restaurant manager), Toby Stansfield (ex-The Old Fitz and Fabbrica) and Dexter Kim (who will turn his focus from freelance photography to hospitality). Idiosyncratic takes on Euro wine bar share plates include “tonnato vitello”, which flips the Italian classic in name and on the plate, reimagining the usual tuna mayonnaise as a rich potato mousse and replacing the veal with diced fresh tuna. A rabbit “doughnut” piles a rich ragù atop fried bread with pickled turnip, while the crisp gnocco fritto comes topped with a marbled slice of beef with…

Pistachio Papi Crunchy This decadent spread’s velvety texture is contrasted with bites of crushed pistachio speckled throughout. Its whipped frosting-like texture and biscuity aroma make it an ideal dessert topper, be it spread across crêpes or melted and drizzled over ice-cream with fruit. $19 for 230gm, pistachiopapi.com.au Chef Joey D Crema di Pistachio With its fudgy consistency, this spread envelops your mouth with a buttery texture. Made by Melbourne-based chefs and father-son duo Joe and Max Di Cintio, the savoury pistachio notes are offset by sweetness, making it perfect for traditional Italian treats like bomboloni or cannoli. $18.95 for 220gm, chefjoeyd.com Scyavuru Crema al Pistacchio Crunchy Italian-made, this dense spread uses a traditional recipe making it a much-loved Italian breakfast condiment. Sicilians often enjoy it spread on toast with a…

NATIVE SIPS Female-led distillery Birds of Isle is giving rum the artisan treatment. Its signature bunya nut drop picks up on the trend for Australian botanicals with notes of roasted bunya nut shell paired with smoky chestnut and a hint of pinewood. $130, birdsofisle.com.au CLASSIC HITS Big news for Barossa fans, as Yalumba releases its inaugural museum collection in the lead up to its 175th anniversary. The special release will see limited parcels of its signature wines released, aged between 10 and 20 years. Visitors to Barossa can experience the full collection with a special tasting flight at the Yalumba Wine Room. yalumba.com SPOTLIGHT ON Matt Whiley, owner of Sydney’s pioneering Re bar is collaborating with W Brisbane on a special conscious cocktail menu. I’ve always been intrigued by how…

IN MY ROLE AS WINE SCRIBE AND SOMMELIER, THE MOST COMMON question asked after, “How can I have your job?” is “What’s the next big grape in wine?”, often from curious drinkers who want to try something beyond their usual safe bets. And Australia’s dynamic wine scene comes up with the goods. With more than 100 recognised grape varieties across 65 unique wine regions and no appellation controls, Australians craft exceptional wines according to their own rules. That brings us to the planting of “emerging” varieties, the result of decades of exploration by viticulturists and winemakers to find new grapes that resist agricultural pressures and thrive in warmer climates. All while seeking out compex flavour profiles to complement the diversity of food dished up in Australian restaurants. GRÜNER VELTLINER Say…

VIC BAR OLO, MELBOURNE There’s something almost radical about Bar Olo. At a time when the wine bars currently proliferating across Melbourne are mostly emphasising minimal intervention wines and food cooked over coals, this bar, from the owners of longstanding Scopri a few doors away, emphasises the classic and the old-school. From the flatteringly lit, wood-panelled room to a compact menu of classic Italian bites, and a wine list that accentuates traditional Italian winemaking, Bar Olo feels both retro and completely fresh. In short: Old-school cool. TAS HAVILAH, HOBART The wall of well-selected wines from near and far – available to take home or drink in – might be Havilah’s lure. Once the bijou bar’s moody lighting casts its spell, however, you’ll want to stay longer. Settle in for more…

CHILLI AND MAKRUT LIME Combine 4 finely shredded makrut lime leaves, 2 finely grated garlic cloves, 1 finely chopped birdseye chilli, finely grated zest of 1 lime, 60ml (¼ cup) lime juice, 2 tbsp neutral-flavoured oil, 2 tbsp fish sauce and 2 tbsp finely grated palm sugar in a bowl. LEBANESE Combine 80ml (⅓ cup) pomegranate molasses, 1 tbsp honey, 2 tsp ground cumin, ½ tsp allspice and 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil in a bowl; season to taste. Serve skewers scattered with coriander. MOROCCAN Combine ¼ cup each coriander and mint, 1 small (100gm) quartered red onion, 1 finely grated garlic clove, 2 tsp honey, 1 tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp ground coriander, ½ tsp cinnamon, 60ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil and 1 tbsp lemon juice in a…

SIMPLE INGREDIENTS SHOWN a little bit of love and attention come together to make more than the sum of their parts,” says award-winning cook Anna Jones. “This to me is an easy win. A little moment of kitchen alchemy that reassures me.” In her aptly titled new cookbook Easy Wins, Jones offers up recipes that deliver far more joy than effort imparted. Here she shares her most flavourful dishes to cook on repeat. Frizzled spring onion and olive oil dip SERVES 4 This dip is a take on the traditionally Chinese spring onion oil, but with a hit of chilli and turmeric, and sits on top of a thick lime yoghurt. “If your yoghurt is not thick (and by that I mean spoonable, almost the consistency of clotted cream), then…

IN HINDSIGHT, IT WOULDN’T REALLY HAVE mattered if InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort wasn’t on an immaculate private bay shrouded by an ancient rainforest. Or if this enchanting escape wasn’t so easily accessed from Danang International Airport. It’s been 12 years since architect Bill Bensley unleashed his breakthrough project onto this glorious scallop of Vietnamese coast. In that time it’s come to light that the hotel auteur’s fandom would follow him into the wildest of wilds (Rosewood Luang Prabang, Laos) and to the frosted tips of the earth (Shinta Mani Mustang, Nepal). Two years ago, the architect, landscape architect, artist and interior designer returned to Danang to renovate his masterwork. The original design, informed by his study of Vietnam’s temples, shrines and palaces, was a series of rich spaces over…

LEAVE ANY ASSUMPTIONS you might have about a $6 million pub renovation at the button-activated front door. Chances are they won’t apply at White Horse, which emerged from a full facelift in April. Wander inside, and you’ll find the public bar has been relegated upstairs, replaced by a lavish dining room with linen banquettes, French oak tables and Danish timber chairs. There’s no house white, but there is taut, limey organic riesling from WA’s feted Frankland Estate by the glass for $16. The closest thing to chips, meanwhile, is a velvety potato galette shrouded in a leek-and-potato sauce streaked with black garlic. It, too, comes in at $16 and also features on a four-course set menu, which costs $75 and includes a wagyu tri-tip with chestnut sabayon. This line of…

I CAN’T REMEMBER EXACTLY WHEN I FIRST SAW a restaurant snack perched on top of a square of geometrically branded grease paper, but I do remember thinking it looked cool. The dish was almost certainly something dusted with a cricket pitch of fine brunoise chives, and the grass-green speckles of allium would have looked punchy and pretty on my Instagram stories, contrasting with the bold, primary-coloured font of whatever restaurant had served it up. What I do know, however, is that I’d be happy if I never saw it again. What began as a cute accessory now feels like I’m eating directly off someone’s marketing strategy. It’s hard to shake the sense that dishes presented this way are designed more for word of mouth than for an actual mouth. Plating…

VIC KAFENEION, MELBOURNE It’s a measure of Kafeneion’s success that fried sweetbreads are suddenly up there as Melbourne’s go-to dish. But Con Christopoulos and Stavros Konis’ chic Greek diner is a pitch-perfect lesson in defying expectations and overturning taverna stereotypes. Dishes are deceptively simple and beautifully comforting. Slow-cooked meats and vegetables, whole fish, and orange fillo cake meld perfectly with artfully worn surrounds, unfussy service and Greek wine by the carafe. A supper menu that includes wonderfully fortifying avgolemono seals the deal. In short: A super supper club. NSW KING CLARENCE, SYDNEY On paper, a bao that mimics the McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish or char-grilled chicken liver skewers atop Vegemite toast might sound gimmicky. On the plate at King Clarence, these things – and the rest of chef Khanh Nguyen’s borderless, boundlessly…

THE TINY ISLAND NATION OF MALTA, smaller even than Launceston, has seen its popularity soar, as tourists come for its pristine coastline, rich history and diverse cultural influences. Yet its cuisine remains largely unknown to those outside of the archipelago, which sits between Sicily and the coast of North Africa, and where its neighbours have played an instrumental role in influencing the flavours and techniques found in Maltese cooking. Two Australians who know how unique this cuisine is are cookbook author Julia Busuttil Nishimura and chef Jacqui Challinor (Nomad Group) who grew up eating this food with their Maltese families. “Growing up in a Maltese family is the reason I love food,” says Challinor. “A Maltese plate is reflective of its history, with Arabic, English and Mediterranean influences; at its…

FOR TOM SARAFIAN HUMMUS HAS BECOME A PART OF HIS PERSONAL brand. It’s a dish that offers connection and convenience in Middle Eastern cuisine, but it was Sarafian’s experiences of eating it throughout the Levant region that inspired his own evolved take on it. “This is my recipe inspired by eating incredible hummus across Lebanon,” says Sarafian. In this iteration, the nutty, thick hummus is topped with a saucy mix of Aleppo pepper-spiked king prawns, and amplifed with garlicky toum. “The sauce is inspired by hummus topped with lamb with sweet spices and nuts fried in lamb fat. It’s a great seafood alternative,” says Sarafian. The combination of the sweet-spicy prawns and spanner crab gives it a uniquely Australian edge, something Sarafian will to continue to explore at his forthcoming…

ON THE SUBJECT OF TRAVEL, WE TALK ABOUT the thrill of discovering new things. We refuse to admit that this means discovering new things that bother us, that we do not enjoy, things we don’t like about ourselves and companions. But life is indeed a voyage of discovery, and some of these discoveries are about how grumpy, spoiled and intolerant we are. Embrace it! This isn’t about being a joyless whinger on holiday, quite the opposite. It’s only by becoming an honest hater of some things that we become lifelong lovers to others. So here, in reverse-chronological order, are three life-changing dislikes I discovered on my travels. Last month, in Ibiza, after a week of dining in trendy small-plate restaurants with a group of friends, a hatred of tapas hit…

STAY Recent addition to Pokolbin’s accommodation offering, The Lane Retreat, is a series of 60 freestanding studios on Bimbadgen’s 15-hectare estate of vineyards and bushland. For those vexed by the Hunter Valley’s eternal weak spot – the combination of excellent drinking and limited taxis – it might just be the ultimate solution. A shuttle service runs between The Lane Retreat and hospitality group Mulpha’s other Hunter Valley establishments, including Emma’s Cottage Vineyard and Bimbadgen’s home vineyard on McDonalds Road.Back on the property, the pool has some of the best views over Broken Back Range and the baristas at the store and pantry do a handy long black to go with your breakfast provisions. Inside the studio, the mood is bush sleek in muted terracotta and eucalyptus tones. The streamlined kitchenette…

TREASURE TROVE Layering bold forms with textural furnishings brings warmth and eccentricity to the home. 1 Shogun table lamp $1860, Stylecraft. 2 Filigree of Foliage (2023) by Luke Sciberras, $22,000, King Street Gallery. 3 Vitra Akari floor lamp, $5905, Living Edge. 4 Cannellini coffee table, $1999, West Elm. 5 Christian Lacroix Birds Sinfonia Crepuscule cushion, $390, Designers Guild. 6 L’Objet Timna vase short in Aged Iron Porcelain, $1450, Becker Minty. 7 USM Haller Sideboard in Mid-Gray, $3784, Anibou. 8 1977 sofa chair module in Leura Mangrove, $1115, King Living. BON VIVANT Marble detail and copper accents merge heritage with modern cool for an ageless kitchen. 1 Kelly Wearstler Melange elongated sconce with alabaster, $1850, Becker Minty. 2 Scanpan classic magnetic knife rack, $150, Kitchen Warehouse. 3 De Buyer stewpan in…